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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mworleymworley Posts: 41
    I have had no issues with my 01 GC..I did change the front pads to Bosch ceramic since the original Jeep pads tend to wear the rotors. I do admit the braking was slightly better with the original pads but I would rather come to a stop slower than buy $90 dollar rotors. I have put appr 30,000 on my front brakes with no issue's..I also pull a boat.
  • mworleymworley Posts: 41
    My 01 has started doing this over the last month, dealership says its normal..I will deal with them...It is pronounced Viscous Coupling..I think its in the tranfer case and helps the wheels slip when on dry pavement.
  • mworleymworley Posts: 41
    Timing chain, If the oil is changed reguarly it will not need replacing...I have had 2 Jeeps with 200k..no timing chains.. Does your radiator leak?..is the engine running hot?..if not leave it be.
  • mworleymworley Posts: 41
    Brakes squeaking..change the pads..they may be cracked..Pulls..check tire pressure, check front end components. Whinning, Is it the tires..Are they all terain..these make nosie...otherwise it my be from the front axle or drivetrain.
  • mworleymworley Posts: 41
    I know turning rotor's is common practice these days however there are 2 problems with this practice. 1..the metal is not as it was year's. ago 2.These new rotors are thinner than they were on the older cars...When they are cut they warp faster because they do not have the beef to withstand the fricton heat from the pads.. Go to aftermarket rotors..Go to Ceramic pads,they do not destroy the rotors like the original mettalic pads do.. Its easier and cheaper to change pads every 40k than rotors.. I am not a mechanic but I have done 50 plus brake jobs and have not had 1 complaint for noise or warping. My 01 has 30k on the front brakes with original rotors and Bosch ceramic brake pads.I also pull a boat.
  • mworleymworley Posts: 41
    My 01 does not cool nearly as well as other suv's I have been in.. It does seem under powered for the cabin. My old 87 would freeze you out. Of course this was r12..the new 134a does not cool nearly as well.
  • mworleymworley Posts: 41
    Just a guess.. vibration at certain speeds..sounds like a wheel out of balance..vibration when braking at high speeds..warped rotors. Good luck.
  • mworleymworley Posts: 41
    I have not experienced this problem with my 01..however I would say it is a fuel sending unit causing this..the gauge gets its info from the sending unit..if it reads as empty that is what your gauge will read..this may also be tied into the trip meter.
  • mworleymworley Posts: 41
    It was probably a defect in the manufacturing of the rim..Jeep's are not fragile..Ive pulled sheds down, towed cars, pulled stumps out..The dealer should replace the rim,,unless you flew off a cliff the rim is not going to split. The seam was not made correctly and split due to the weight of the vehicle.
  • mworleymworley Posts: 41
    No the spare is not needed. It is recommend all 4 tires to make sure the vehicle handles properly..ie...different tires handle different. If the tires are rotated every 7,500 they can be changed as a set because they will wear the same. I average 75,000 miles on my tires..proper tire inflation is critical. Rotation as well. the tires have nothing to do with the 4wd system. Finally why pay for red..because like everything else in this world,,red is popular..people will pay.its called greed.
  • mworleymworley Posts: 41
    The fan should only come on when idling in traffic under extreme high temp conditons ( ac on )...It should cycle normally on and off.. You should not hear it at all inside slight noise if you are standing by the hood. If it is on all the time, it has a bad thermo switch or the engine is running too hot. if the fan itself makes noise it means that the bearing is bad ( it needs replacing ) My 01 rarely comes on and it makes only a slight noise..I have 73,000k.
  • mworleymworley Posts: 41
    I bought it for my 01..I am glad I did.. it is expiring in 09..going to buy a newer Jeep..
  • mworleymworley Posts: 41
    I have heard of this but both my 87 and 90 had 200k and never had a problem. It is true they are weled on the a pillar. Seems rather dumb. remember these are put together with robots..I guess its easier to weld them on than to worry about alignment.
  • mworleymworley Posts: 41
    yes 30,000 for a serp belt is good.remember they drive all of the other pulleys in the vehicle and thay are under tremendous stress. Better to change it than to have it break. Yes carbon cleaning is good, it will give a better idle and help with gas mileage.
  • mworleymworley Posts: 41
    Bad pw steering pump bearing, bad serpintine belt or a bad bearing with another accessory.
  • mworleymworley Posts: 41
    They changed the suspension on the newer Jeeps.they are stiffer riding...my only suggestion. go with softer ride shocks..if the vehicle has hd gas it will be choppy.
    My 01 v8 has Jeep shocks..it rides fairly smooth.
  • mworleymworley Posts: 41
    These components do do not bad like this.I have had 4 Jeeps and none of these problems...they are taking DC for a ride. Go to another dealership.
  • mworleymworley Posts: 41
    Possible yes..probable no..4 Jeeps and no problems..some with 200k.
  • This message is old, so I hope you've worked through this already. But I had something similar happen to me and it was the oil pressure sending unit. However, mine leaked really bad when it happened too.

    If I'm correct, it doesn't really have any impact on the actual pressure, it's just the device that sends the signal to your instrument panel. Thus the drop and the alarm.

    I don't believe you said what engine you have, but I have a 96 in-line 6 cylinder 4.0 and the unit is very easily accessible on the passenger side of the engine. You simple unclip the cable, remove it by unscrewing it, replace, re-clip and your finished.

    I believe the part is about $60 and most places have a minimum fee of hour service. So that little nugget could save you about $90.

    Hope that helps someone.
  • I looked back to try to try the chain of posts regarding the WOD, however I went all the way back to page 184 and hadn't found it. I got sick of looking and just decided to post what I found.

    First, and foremost, there was a lot of confusion as to what the WOD is. Some people confused this with a slight shake that you could accelerate through, thinking that it was something like out of balance tires. This is absolutely not the WOD. You can not accelerate through the WOD. The WOD is so violent that you literally think that they front end of your car is about to break off and you're going to be standing on the side of the road looking at your car broke into two pieces. So if you have a little annoying shake in your front end... you absolutely are not experiencing the WOD. If you have had to stop at the next rest area or return home for a change of clothes (and a shower), you've probably experienced the WOD.

    SO... many people claimed that the cause was several different issues, and of course the problem is that they were probably all correct for their specific circumstance. However, let me tell you what I found.

    I decided to bring mine to a local mechanic who is very honest and does great work. He told me prior to the job that it would be the Trac bar, however after reading all the horror stories on here, I decided that I would replace the steering dampener (I think that's what it's called; shock absorber attached to the steering) also.

    When I went to pick the vehicle up I asked if there was anything obvious that looked bad. That's when he showed me the old trac bar. There is a what I refer to as a "ball and socket" joint on one end (that's a medical term, not sure what the auto term would be) and that joint was obviously bad and the entire cause of the issue. Whatever was originally holding the ball in place inside the socket was now gone and it was just kind of free floating inside with lots of room for movement that shouldn't have been there.

    Again, I'm not a mechanic and I know I didn't do as good of a job of explaining this as I would've liked to, but I just wanted to let those of you who have had/will have this problem that this was the fix.

    To replace the trac bar was about $200 w/labor and adding in the steering dampener brought it up to $300. So not bad.

    I felt the difference in the front end immediately leaving and haven't had even the slightest sign of the WOD since.

    Hope that helps.
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