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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair



  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    For garage test, unecessary vacuum disconnected. Last night connected everything....Put small hose clamps on so all vacuum so all is tight...Replaced evap purge solenoid that was causing another problem...Test drove....Solenoid problem fixed, but rough idle remains. Accelerates and cruises OK....Will probe MAP and throttle sensors tonight with jumper wires and do compression test....I read that oxygen sensor not used in cold warmup and I have problem cold and warm.....Thanks
  • n0otron0otro Posts: 12
    My 1996 JGC with 97k on it has recently started stalling out when coming to a stop at a light or stop sign.

    I thought it might be the Idle Air Controller valve, so I replaced it but it is still happening.

    Could it be a dirty fuel injector? What else should I check?
  • wvhjb44wvhjb44 Posts: 1
    water leak under the glovebox..floor on passenger side is soaking wet what can cause this there is no smell to it i need some help. my daughter just got this 2002 grand jeep cherokee ltm on thursday please help
  • n0otron0otro Posts: 12
    I had a similar problem with a 1996 JGC. It was a clog in the air conditioning condensate drain.

    Your jeep is much newer, I would think they would have addressed the problem by now, but maybe not.
  • mimi139mimi139 Posts: 9
    Response to my original posting and what was done to the Jeep GC. The code never re-appeared but the fuel pump was changed with a manufacturer defect. That was changed out with a good fuel pump the very next day. Also, I had the fuel pump regulator that made the original troubles go away. The Jeep starts and drives good now. Just a bit of shaking at a stop and an existing rattle noise under the car (maybe the convertor cover). Otherwise all is okay for now. Thanks for the input you provided to me. :blush:
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I have a 97.

    If you haven't done so, make sure the throttle is clean, especially the cylinder where the piston travels. I don't know why, but you need a "tamper-proof" torx bit to disassemble the throttle so you can clean it

    I have rough idle and it almost stalls. Replacing my evap purge solenoid solved the stall problem.

    Try disconnecting the vacuum line from maninfold to evap purge solenoid. It's for emission control. See haynes manual for more info. Plug the fitting on the manifold. Disconnect wire from the solenoid so that engine computer cannot enable it or plug the line. Disconnecting wire may cause a "check engine" light.

    If you have problem in Park, you can do it in your garage with hood open. If not, make your road test as short as possible.

    Make sure engine has warmed up. The engine computer won't enable the solenoid until it warms up

    If it runs better, replace the solenoid and any vacuum hose that looks dry or rotted. My almost stall problem went away.

    Note: If you do this yourself don't make my mistake. It's easy to pull the line off the canister which means the canister is evaporating all the time and is not controlled by the solenoid. The canister is under the bumper. You have to remove the air filter housing to access it and even then it is difficult.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I am going to take a wild guess. Excuse me if I am way off.

    The line that drains condensation from your air conditioner has become partially or completely plugged so the water backs up and eventually has to go somewhere.

    Run your air conditioner on a hot muggy day at least 30 minutes and see how much water comes dripping out underneath the car. The drain should be close to the a/c coil that is integrated with your air ducts on the dash. It should be clear water if the drain is not dirty. No water is an obvious indication.

    Take it to a shop if it looks suspicious. I never did this one. I believe you need compressed air to clean the line.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    This is same 97 JGC i posted before, 4.0L I6....The story continues but has taken a turn....All vacuum issues resolved....Engine still idles rough but with a very consistent vibration. All the chopping is gone.

    Did compression test...Bingo!...All the cylinders were 145-150 psi except cylinder 2. It usually peaked at 120. Squirted in some oil. Went to 150 like the other ones.

    Spending big $ on engine a problem because I will need it for transmission....Local shops don't want to do repairs...They want to swap for used engine....Swaps have a much better $/effort ratio...Nobody wants to scrape a gasket anymore...They might replace my 160K engine with a 140K engine.

    Is repairing engines a secret nobody wants to get out?

    If we can put a man on the moon, we can repair a cylinder.

    What are my options ? What tools will I need ? What is best approach ? What suppliers are rated best ?

    Thanks for any input.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    could have compression ring frozen in ring land

    i would try and get some SEA FOAM from pep boys checker and squirt some in the cyl and let soak for a while then run it some for a few days with some in crank case then change oil see if dont get better small price to pay if works as if you didnt over heat the bugger could be stuck from carbon deposits and sea foam should take care of that
  • The air conditioner in my 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee is not working properly. When I add freon, all of it is gone within 3 weeks. I know I have a leak somewhere but my mechanic has been unable to find it. Also, the floor board on the passenger side used to get soaking wet whenever I ran the air. Has anyone else had this problem and how can it be resolved?
  • n0otron0otro Posts: 12
    I can't help you with the freon leak, but I also have a 1996 JGC that had the wet passenger side floor.

    I just posted this link a few messages back(#4155):
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    take to ac man they have a freon detector should be able to find leak
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I have a 97 and I have Chrysler shop manual for it.

    1. The wet floor board is probably due to the drain line being plugged at the condenser. I believe you need compressed air to clean the line. I've never done that repair.


    2. If any of the fittings use O-Rings, find them and replace the O-rings. After 12 years of engine heat they are in less than perfect condition. You might have to buy a special disconnect tool (not big $). But there is risk of breaking a fitting when you work on it yourself.

    3. The Chrysler manual says put the vehicle where there is no wind, evacuate freon, recharge and use "electronic R-134A" leak detector", whatever that is.

    Auto a/c work is difficult for diy. I hope it's a line leak and not the compressor.

    96 thru 98 were the best years.
  • corsairdncorsairdn Posts: 2
    Ok, so I've read several similar issues but here is mine. My 98 GC 2WD has a dead battery so I replaced it and also replaced the neg cable connector due to corosion. The new battery dies so I charge it and take it to the dealership who keeps it for 3 days and replaces a broken hatch light switch (although the lights never remained on), $300 and the next day, its dead again so I take it back and after a week they can't find anything draining the battery. So I bring it home troubleshoot it with a test light on the neg cable and nothing indicates a drain when the switch is off, so I replace the new battery again and still the problem exists! Its driving me crazy since no one can find anything draining the batter when the switch is off. Any help or advice out there! :mad:
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    try and disconect the small wires to the altnator when you park for a few days
  • corsairdncorsairdn Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply. I'll do that this weekend but if the battery doesnt drain then does that mean its an alternator issue even though the charging system works normal?
  • I have a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. I have had this car for the past 2 years, but not until a month ago did an alarm start going off every time I enter my car. The only way for me to disengage the alarm is to start the car after I enter it.

    This presents a problem because another issue is occurring simultaneously. Sometimes it will not start at all. It appears as if there is some kind of power problem, that I usually solve by messing around with the fuses. When I turn the key to the start position nothing happens. I have an stereo system connected to an antenna that comes up when the car is started. Whatever is keeping the car from starting is connected to the issue with the stereo system because at times when the car will not start I have no power going to the radio, cigarette lighter or windshield wipers. All other displays, power and lights work fine regardless.

    When this happens I can't start the car until my antenna and radio come on. In the past year Ive had the starter and several other parts replaced, but that doesn't seem to be the problem.

    The alarm is supposed to make other people afraid to enter my car- not me. Haha.

    Any Ideas?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    yep the internal reg has a short
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    have you replaced the ingnition switch?
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I have a 97 and have considerable experience with this problem.

    If the liftgate ajar switch on the liftgate or the one on the liftglass is faulty or has come loose, the body control module will not turn off and will drain your battery in 1 or 2 days. A schematic or connector pinout will show 1 liftgate ajar (digital) input on the BCM, but this input is the wired OR of the above 2 signals. I believe BCM uses this signal to disable rear wiper.

    To check this out:

    (1)disconnect (-) of battery and remove the bulb mounted in the hood.
    (2) connect ammeter (10A) between (+) post and (+) cable.
    (3) reconnect (-) of battery
    (4) Whatever you do, DO NOT start it.
    (5) Make sure all doors closed and manual lights turned off

    If you have above problem, current will read about 200-300 mA and never drop. When working correctly, the current should drop to 30 mA in a minute or two.

    Note: if current is negative it means ammeter is hooked up backwards. Solution and troubleshooting require removal of interior panel on liftgate.

    When you open a door, it should draw around 5A until you close the door and the lights go off.

    If you have the above profile, read on. If you have much larger drain, it is probably something else.

    Removing electrical connectors from the switches should temporarily fix the problem and pinpoint the cause The switch on the liftglass is just a press fit. First, I tried to make it fit more securely. It was OK and then came loose again. I had to drill a small hole and use a tiny screw to keep it in position.

    Another potential cause is if the body control module cannot communicate with another module like the door module over the Chrysler data bus. I found a service bulletin about this. The switch on driver door to disable locks/windows on other doors uses the data bus to communicate with other modules. Correct operation gives some indication the bus is working.

    It is very possible, dealer replaced one of your switches and it was working when you left the lot, but it has come loose again.
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