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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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  • kelvormkelvorm Posts: 1
    I have a 98 grand cherokee that started off stalling at idle, we replaced idle air control sensor by the throttle body, and that problem solved. Now it misfires and stalls very intermittently sometimes ok for days and then one day it will misfire and stall out several times. When it stalls it mostly is just a quick engine shutdown. Most times it starts back up right away, couple times it took about 10 minutes to get it going. It could stall at idle, right when I start the car, or as Im driving slower speeds. Computer said it was the coil so we replaced the engine coil and then the distributer pick up coil and new spark plug wires. The engine does seem to be a little rougher at idle then usual. Mechanic is a little stumped and we are at a loss. Anyone have any ideas?? I really need help! Thank you!
  • joe2258joe2258 Posts: 1
    I own a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4 X 4, 6 cyl. 4li. engine, 120,000miles. It has been stored for about 6 months, prior to storage I removed the batterie and when I put it back in, the hazard lights started to flash and the horn went on and off. The engine would start (2 or 3 seconds) and went off. I even tried another batterie, but the same thing happened. Any clue on what could cause the problem? Thanks.
  • pmoulderpmoulder Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Jeep Cherokee Laredo with 124,000 miles on it. I went out today and there is absolutely no power to the car at all. Even the keyless remote entry wont work. I know it is somewhere in the PCM box. But I am not sure what relay/fuse is for what.

    Can anyone help?
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I had this happen to me (97) when I had battery disconnected during a 2 week vacation. Vehicle Theft subsystem (VTSS) initialization error may be the cause.

    It sounds like your VTSS thinks the vehicle is being stolen.

    Disconnect battery and then reconnect battery with driver door open. VTSS should know that it is not being stolen. Close door and lock with keyless entry. Then unlock it using keyless entry. Vehicle Theft subsystem should now be initialized. If no keyless entry or no VTSS or this procedure does not help, it must be something else.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I assume you did the repair yourself. If so, I admire your ambition. Maybe you need to verify your fuel pump relay circuit and electrical connections. No 12V to the pump, no fuel.

    I have a 97. On mine the fuel pressure regulator is integrated with the pump in the tank. Your regulator may be implemented in a different way. I don't know if a faulty regulator can make it fail completely. Try to get the Haynes manual.
  • hello all, i recently purchased a 1997 xj,4.0 liter,5 sp,4 door .i bought the vehicle from the 2cd owner ,the mileage is quitehigh 210,000 m.that's not a problem this thing runs awesome ,tight VERY well maintained.the question i have is it runs right around 210 degrees when warmed up.i panicked changed thermostat,coolant, and cap.it still runs same temp.i mean no power loss or anything like that .just wondering it thats the normal temp?well would appreciate feedback!!thank you dale!
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    thats about right
    that is why the have the pressure cap on thr rad will rasise the boiling point to a bout 255
  • I have excatly the same problem on my 99 jeep GC but can't find where the noise is coming from has anyone got any ideas. it sounds like a dull stearing rubber gator split but its not caused by that?????
  • craig43craig43 Posts: 1
    Jeep starts and then fuel pump cuts out. It thinks I'm stealing it!! Tried unlocking/locking the doors but key won't turn in the driver's side. Any suggestions on how to override the system so I can drive this thing again??
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Solution is big $ or spend time on it. Faulty lock on driver side may be causing your Vehicle Theft System to false alarm.

    I have 97. Removing interior door panels was pretty easy. Separate lock from mechanism before or after removing the lock. Use judgement. My locks are held in place by a tight clip. Pop the clip and lock should come out. Replace it. Maybe the Haynes manual can help here.

    I had my battery disconnected while away on vacation. When I came back VTSS false alarmed. If you don't have keyless entry then improvise. Here's what I did. Disconnect battery and reconnect it with driver door open. All other doors & trunk were closed. Close driver door, Lock with keyless entry. Then, unlock with keyless entry Mine started OK. Maybe you will be OK.

    If you lost keyless entry, I believe you can get replacement at the dealer. Sorry. More $.

    I believe your best chance to fix it is to fix the lock and use the keyless entry (if equiped) to initialize VTSS.

    If all else fails, you may be able to disable VTSS in your Body Control Module, but it's difficult and risky.

    In Jeep digital inputs are Active Low. So if a signal is labeled "Door Ajar Sense", it is true if at 0 volts(Ground) and false if 12 volts. When the door is open (true), it should measure 0 volts. I am 99% sure, but possibility of an exception always exists.

    My Body Control Module has an input called "VTSS Disarm Sense". Maybe you can disconnect that pin from wiring harness and force VTSS to be disabled all the time. You might have to tie the pin to Ground. You will probably need the shop manual

    BCM connectors may be difficult to pull out. Do not break retaining clips on BCM connectors by squeezing too hard (like I did once). I would say try this as a last resort.
  • Not sure about your alarm, but give this a try...

    Put the key in the ignition
    Turn the key as if you are going to start the car, but not all the way to start (Stop just before)
    Turn all the way back to accessory mode
    Do this 2 more times
    Then turn the engine over.

    Also, check under the dash on the drivers side for a little button. You may have to hold it while doing the above turns to reset it.

    Some Jeeps (and ironically some Fords) used this system back in the mid-1990's.
  • I am trying to replace the battery in my 1999 JGC, and it as this plastic jacket/cover that snaps around it. I un-did the snaps, but cannot move the battery. I cannot seem to find a way to completely remove this cover, it looks like it is connected to the base that the battery sits on. Can anyone please help?
    Thanks
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I have a 97 JGC and the shop manual. Chances are good it is similar to yours.

    They show a diagram with a shell like casing that sits on top of the battery. The hold down bracket and its bolts hold the battery in place and secure this casing. They call the casing a "ThermoGuard".

    There are no extra screws or bolts for the ThermoGuard. Once you remove the hold down bracket, it should come off. It may be wedged against the fender shield OR was forced into place when the original Chrysler battery was replaced. The width and length of the replacement battery was probably different than the original. If somebody hammered it on will a rubber mallet, you may have to break it to get it off.

    It was a long time ago but your email reminded me that the first time I serviced my battery, I took mine off and threw it away.
  • Hi, I'm a new poster here, so thanks in advance for your help. I have a 1997 Grand Cherokee Limited which is perfect after 225,000 miles except for the last 1,000 miles, when I turn tightly in either direction (making a u-turn) the front end "lurches" and I can feel a grinding. Also the tires act like the front differential is locked up. If it's done this in the past I've never noticed until now.

    Also, since this is a full time 4WD, can the front drive shaft or any components be removed to make it a 2WD permanently?
  • Hi, I have a 98 JGC Laredo, and I had a clunking noise in the front.... my mechanic says that it is the Viscous Coupler. I Googled the VC and have read that when the VC goes bad, the symptoms you describe are what happens. Bad thing: it is going to cost me about $1500 at a reputable auto repair shop; would probably be at least twice that at the stealership.... but if left unrepaired can cause differential problems and on and on.... hope this is helpful.

    (I don't have any advice/info on your other question) Good luck to you.
  • bubba38bubba38 Posts: 21
    hello everyone I RECENTLY PURCHASED A 96 GCL 180K MILES DROVE IT FOR A DAYS AND STARTED HEARING ABAD GRINDING NOISE IN THE FRONT END I PULLED THE FRONT DIFF COVER TO FIND PINION GEAR SHEARED DOES ANYONE KNOW IF THERE IS A PLACE TO REFENCE THE DIFF # I CALLED A LOCAL DEALER THEY WERE WILLING TO SELL ME A NEW ONE FOR $400 IS THIS HIGH FOR A RACK AND PINION? SAID THAT IT HAD TO BE SHIMMED HOW HARD IS THIS? SHOULD I CONSIDER A USED ONE?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    WILLING TO SELL ME A NEW ONE FOR $400

    I don't know what a good price would be but I am curious. Does that figure include labor costs for installation?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • bubba38bubba38 Posts: 21
    no does not include labor just ring and pinion bearings and seals extra
  • It's not a great idea to go used, unless your GC is primarily a trail rig. You can get the ring and pinion a little cheaper than what the dealer wants. Look online at Quadratec.com, 4wd.com, and other aftermarket distributors. Shimming is pretty difficult unless you really know what you're doing, so I'd recommend getting a shop to do it for you. That way, if it's set up wrong, they'll be responsible!
  • farooq2farooq2 Posts: 3
    After about half hour the heater gage starts going to the red side, What I found was as soon as I turn on the engine the fan starts running but in a slow speed and stays on in the same speed wont turn off, I was wondering if anyone can give me some ideas what to look for. Thank you in advance.
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