Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

1200201203205206247

Comments

  • bubba38bubba38 Posts: 21
    thank you for the advice I'm still wondering if anyone knows a place to reference the #'s on diff so I can know what gears to replace in my current diff not sure of ratios
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Transfer case ? CV joints ? I don't now much about 4x4 but at 225K you are probably a candidate for a front end rebuild which is one area I have never gotten into.

    Before you spend $ you may want to make sure your power steering gear is not leaking. It is a big $ part.

    I am a die-hard DIY, but a Ford dealer mechanic I used to know advised me not to do steering repairs except to replace pwr steer pump and hoses.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    This sounds like a problem I once had with a Ford Ranger. When I was in stop and go traffic it would overheat. Out on the highway it was fine.

    I believe it was a "fan clutch". When the vehicle is moving slowly or stopped a lot, I believe the fan is suppose run at a high speed. If the clutch does engage it can't switch to the high speed.

    When you are going 60 mph you get much more air going thru the radiator so a slow fan speed is adequate.

    It's an educated guess because this happened to me quite some time ago.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    4 x 4 off road in az replaced my fromt diff cost parts and labor 589.00

    replaced seals also [non-permissible content removed] have to remove ring and pinion to do those also gearing stamped on ring gear also pinion (these must be bought as a pare as they are matched at the factory PIA to replace do all my own work but had to have shop do these as need specal tools to disasemble and set up

    good luck
  • kipkkipk Posts: 1,576
    My sons 99 JGC with 4.7 has been running hot. He replaced the thermostat and it still ran hot. We replaced the water pump and mechanical fan clutch. No help.

    Out of desperation we pulled the thermostat out. It is at the bottom of the radiator and the spring on the thermostat was in the hose rather than in the engine block.

    Is that correct? Seems to me that the water flowing out of the bottom of the radiator puts the water flow against the spring and working against the opening operation of the thermostat.

    By the way it does not heat up when run without the thermostat. We are going to get a new one but need to know which direction to face the spring.

    Also noticed that the coolant looks a bit muddy/milky. ???

    Thanks,
    Kip
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    spring goes into engine block

    install new antifreze as this engine is all alumnim and water eats that up fast
  • kipkkipk Posts: 1,576
    Thank you! Any idea about the milky/muddy appearance of the coolant? When drained into a white bucket the "mud" seems to settle in the bottom. When we emptied a bucket a lot of the Mud stayed in the bottom and became almost sandy feeling when dried.

    Kip
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I never thought about it but you may be right. I have a 97 JGC and the Chrysler shop manual. My thermostat is connected to upper hose at the manifold. The spring is on the manifold side (towards engine).

    Because of age of the vehicle I suggest you pressure test your cooling system. My understanding is that the system is pressurized to make the coolant more effective by preventing it from boiling. Sometimes you can borrow a tester from auto parts store. You may have to buy an adapter to fit radiator on your car.

    You can do it with engine cold. Pump it up to your specification. I think it's normally 12-15 psi. It should be printed on your radiator cap or find it in the Haynes manual. Come back 1/2 hour later. There should be little or no drop in the pressure.

    Use a rag and eye protection. When you release the tester you could get some coolant squirting
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    sounds as if someone put radiator sealer in the rad

    i would flush the rad and block good before installing new antifreze

    when you fill with new antifreze dont for get to open blead hole on top of elbow that upper hose hooks to so get all air out of swstemi
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    you prob have a 4.0 six cylender

    the rad pressure on a 4.7 is 22 lbs at the rad cap
  • kipkkipk Posts: 1,576
    tuggajb,

    You done good. :)

    We left the thermostat out and ran some Prestone Cleaner ( Safe for all metals)through the system for about 20 minutes. . Drained and refilled with clear water 3 times. After the engine was good and cool we filled with clear water and started the engine, and let it run with the drain out and the bleed valve open while feeding water into the radiator, until the draining water was perfectly clear. It took quite a while to get the water clear. Just wanted to get all the cleaner out.

    Installed the thermostat correctly, used a 50/50 mixture of Prestone and the gauge sits just under 210 degrees when warm. Like it is supposed to do.

    FWIW, I'm not crazy about using cleaners in aluminum radiators, but this just seemed to really need it.

    Thanks so much for your help.

    Kip
  • n0otron0otro Posts: 12
    Is there a fuel sensor on a 4.0L 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo?

    Occasionally when I turn the car on, the fuel gauge will read Empty and it will give me the ding to signal that it's time to fill up. The problem is, there is definitely some gas in the car, and generally if you turn the car off, and turn it back on, it will give you the correct reading about how much gas is left.

    I've just changed the oxygen sensor, the throttle position sensor, the Idle air control valve, and the ECM for a multitude of different problems(stalling), so it shouldn't be any of these parts.

    What could the problem be?
  • torneytorney Posts: 3
    driver side window closed on its own as i was driving and now i get no response from any of the controls on the driver side door. controls on the other doors work as well as the remote control. is there a relay switch or fuse that controls the driver side door only
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    My jeep is a 97. The fuses should be listed inside your owner's manual and there should be a fuse for this function. I believe the fuse is for all power window/door lock modules. You will have to double check.

    Assuming I am right, blown fuse cannot be reason because passenger door works. There is a microprocessor based control module inside your driver door. My recollection is that it cannot be repaired. It has to be replaced as an assembly. This type of part is typically available at a salvage yard local or on the Internet.

    If you work on it yourself, be carefull when you disconnect the wiring harness. The connector will probably be difficult and if you pull on the wires you may damage the connector. Rubber gloves might make it easier to pull on it with your fingers and disconnect (-) of the battery before you work on it.
  • dlt2dlt2 Posts: 1
    My jeep was running fine on Saturday but yesterday when I went to drive it it wouldn't start. The motor tries to turn over but it won't ignite. Now of the gauges are working either. Hooked it to a battery charger and it still will not start any ideas?

    DLT
  • My kids entered my car thru the tailgate. They unlocked the doors from the inside and the alarm went off. This has happened before, and I did what the manual said, use the key on the driverside door to open and the alarm went off. This time, that didn't happen. What do I do. I don't have a remote start, just the key. Please please help. Thanks!
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,971
    Try putting the key back in the door and turning it back and forth twice (or more).
  • wpatterswpatters Posts: 55
    I have had this happen and once you open the door insert the key in the ignition and turn it on. Do not have to start it.
  • I have the same issue with no remote too... I just open the door & start the truck... That usually does it. +<:?)
  • I tried a few things that I read online and nothing seems to work. The security light stays on but the engine won't stay on. I guess I'll have it towed to my mechanic down the street. Bummer though, car maintenance wasn't in my budget this month!. Oh well.
Sign In or Register to comment.