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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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  • I just bought another used 95 cherokee sport. It had no remote with it. how do I tell if it had one and if so how do I go about getting one also horn does not work could the system be disabled causing the horn not to work. When you push the button on wheeel it clicks under dash but no horn Thanks
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    if you get a click -but no horn,it's either unplugged,or bad..
    --find the horn-usually on the radiator core support,and check the connection..hook up a circut tester,..if it lights up,or you get a digital-12v reading(depending on what kind of circut tester your using-the horn's bad..-try putting a hot wire to the horn terminal..if it sounds,then there's a bad connection..chase it down,and fix bad contact..

    --autozone sells replacement remotes..you might even try chrystler's parts dept..they can look up the serial number(your V.I.N.-take your car's registration paper into the parts dept-it should be on there..simpler than trying to write it down-and getting a number wrong!)
    -the v.i.n should tell you every option your jeep had when it was built..most of the grand cherokees i've seen have remote,but why they didn't add remote start?..that's the feature that works for me,as ohio gets cold,and climbing into a warm car is SO O O nice,when it's -20 BELOW..
    -good luck!
  • My truck has been out of commission for a while now. I'm thinking that its my fuel injectors after inspecting several sensors. Here is what my JGC does when i try to turn it on:
    1). As I try to turn it on it makes a clicking noise
    2). when it does turn on the motor accelerates as if i was stepping on the gas and the RPM shoots up.
    3). After a few seconds of (step 2) the RPM drops down as the acceleration decreases dramatically to a point were it wants to turn off. It continues to dance on the RPM scale from 1k RPM to 500
    4). When i would step on the gas pedal it wouldn't respond only if i were to press it down several times. but it would come in delay periods in between after i press the pedal.
    5).Finally it turns off on its own or when i try to shift it to reverse or drive.

    It be the obvious thing to take it to the mechanic but money is a lil tight right now so I'm open to any suggestions from anyone out there. :sick: :confuse:
  • I found it. Now I have another queston. The leads go upward towards the firewall and between the engine. How do I pull the wires down to get to the end to unplug lt?. Will the wires come down enough to unplug them?. Do I have enought wires
    before the plug end to unplug and install new sensor? If not how do I get to the plug end to do the replacement?
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    You need the Haynes repair book to work on this; about $20. Read and follow all safety recommendations.

    Just about everything I describe below is in their book. You may spend some $ and get no results, but it should not be big $.

    Make sure battery is fully charged and tests OK. Where I live, Autozone does it for free. Make sure terminals are securely connected and free of corrosion.

    The click you here is the solenoid energizing the starter, but the starter can't turn. But sometimes the starter cranks the engine. I had this problem. According to my mechanic the starter develops bad spots. Based on your symptoms you will probably have to put in a new starter. Take a picture of it before you remove it so you can compare it to your installation. It's usually not too difficult.

    If starter works OK, you can buy an inexpensive test tool that will help you verify that each spark plug is generating spark. I forget what it's called.

    Assuming spark is OK, you need to check fuel pressure while it is trying to start. Go to harborfreight.com or borrow a gauge.

    If fuel pressure OK, you have to disconnect fuel line so you can remove injectors. With injectors removed, you can do an electrical test on each injector. Requires a multimeter.

    My 97 jeep, 4L I6, would start, but ran very poor. I started working on it with nothing to lose. I did every test I could find in Haynes manual.

    I found several problems. It did not run OK until I fixed them all. It has 170K miles and injectors were OK. Fuel pump was OK. I Here's what I ended up fixing.

    1) Throttle was very dirty and black; cleaning it required removal
    2) Replaced idle air control valve - if your tachometer is all over the place while your idling, suspect this part.
    3) Replaced control valve for early fuel evaporation. If faulty, it affects your vacuum. It's not suppose to open until the engine has generated significant vacuum. Otherwise it hurts your vacuum.

    It ran much better, but it improved even more after replacing intake gaskets, which again affects vacuum. And yes, the intake will be very dirty. Clean it.

    New plugs and wires helped, but not a determining factor.

    If you can do tests that show a part is faulty and you spend $ to replace it, there's a good chance you will get results. But given overall complexity of today's car, there is no guarantee.

    It takes time. There is always risk you may be wasting time and $. If you take it to a mechanic after you try to work on it, they may not like it.
  • Ray29 I had the same problem 1/2 doz trips to the dealer and they could nor fix it. I started digging into it and found it was the Controls within the dash panel (the three knobs). Bad solder joints on the control panel. (they use a compression type joint) replaced the panel about $110 from dealer. problem solved. A test you can do is put inward pressure on the temp control button when calling for heat and the damper should open (pressure on the knob helps make up the solder joint on that board).
  • I have a 4.7 Litre V8 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Totally out of the blue it threw a connecting rod and the piston went up into the head. We now have to get a new engine. Has this happened to anyone else? Is this common in Jeeps? Do you think it is worth repairing?
  • My 2000 jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 has the same issues,i am in the process of replacing the engine with another low mileage engine.It might be very costly to try to repair.I would search around to see if I could get another engine if I were you.
  • We just recently had one of our 2001 Jeep GC throw a piston through the engine block, and are replacing it with a remanufactured engine. Ours is a 4.0L engine. How many people are having/had this issue?
  • What type of pricing are you seeing for you to replace your guys' engines?
  • You can just pop off the upper dash cover on the 99. I have an 2002 and had the same issue with blown tweeters in my Grand Cherokee also. Easy fix but steer clear of everything but the ones from www.jgcparts.com because the factory ones go bad ALL THE TIME! The other alternative is high pitch tiny tweeters you can buy from walmart on a fancy bracket. There is a guy who sells that junk mini piezo tweeter on Ebay calls it a viper something or another. Stay away! it is about 1/6 the size of the factory one and has ZERO sound quality.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    If you pay somebody to rebuild your engine or install a used engine, make sure you get a 90 day warranty on the compression test.

    V8 is cool. But, assuming it can be made compatible, maybe an I6 would be easier to find and cheaper. My 97 2wd JGC has the 4.0 I6. Acceleration was good but I don't tow
  • Sure wish you had received some responses. I have a 2000 JGC Laredo with what may be the exact same problem. I have spent a couple hours searching on the Internet, and cannot find this particular problem addressed anywhere. At least I won't assume it's the speaker, after your outcome.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    If it only happens when you are moving, a connector or wire is loose or speaker or radio not secure which stresses wires and connectors. Next, I assume it happens all the time so you can test it in your garage.

    Obtain a portable radio or compact stereo that can driive your speakers. The ohm ratings should match or be as close as possible. The Power output of stereo should meet or exceed speakers.

    1. Disconnect speaker wire at radio and speaker. Connect speaker to stereo on seperate wires. Make sure volume of stereo is 0 when you turn it on.Adjust volume until plays loud. If Ok, go to step 2. If OK, don't replace speaker and go to step 2

    2. Repeat above test using vehicle speaker. Leave as much of the speaker wire in the vehicle as possible.

    If test passes problem is radio or connector that goes to radio. Check for bent or loose pins or sockets. If you have 4 speakers, I would expect all of the wires to be integrated into a single connector that plugs in the radio.

    Nothing happens without risk. You could spend time & $ with no results or damage it while working on it.

    NOTE: disconnect negative battery cable any time you disconnect or reconnect any electrical connections except if replacing a bulb that you know is turned off
  • rwengr: Thank you for your reply. As soon as I get some free time, I will try your suggestions and post my result.
  • I had the blower motor resistor problem on my 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee where the connector melts. I am replacing the connector and noticed there is always 12 volts going to the connector, even when my Jeep is off. Is this normal?
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    You will need to trace the electrical diagram to see if it is controlled by the ignition switch. You will need a Haynes manual, Jeep shop manual (the best) or alldatadiy.com
  • I have a 2005 JGC Limited with the 5.7 hemi with 76K miles. My Jeep will idle, start, and shift fine. But when I drive it say to the store and home, then a few hours later I go to drive it again. It will start fine and shift into gear without any problems, when I drive to the end of the street (about 100 feet) and stop at the end of the street it may sputter a little bit then stall out or it'll just stall with out any sputtering. It will usually start right back up like nothing happened, and one time it took about 2 tries at (about 3 seconds turning over) and fired on the second try. After this happens the transmission may clunk around a bit at speed. Also no check engine light has come on yet and this has been going on for about 3 weeks now.
    Any answers or ideas would be a lot of help as I honestly don't know where to start with this one. Thanks.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I fixed up my 97 jeep (4.0L I6) last summer for my kid. It ran awful. I replaced plugs and wires. It helped a little, but not much. So, I decided to leave no stone unturned.

    1) Measure fuel pressure.
    2) Make sure each plug is getting spark. They make a tool for this
    3) Compression test each cylinder
    4) Measured vacuum and followed Haynes manual
    5) Check for cracks in any portion of vacuum hoses that get exposed to a lot of heat. Use your fingers or a mirror.
    6) Do all emission related checks in Haynes manual.

    Fuel pressure was OK. Spark was OK. I had 1 cylinder that was slightly below spec, but my engine has 170K.

    I serviced everything I thought was suspect.

    1) replaced some hoses
    2) new idle air control valve
    3) new EFE vacuum control solenoid
    4) new intake gasket.
    5) throttle was very dirty. removed it and cleaned everything as much as possible.

    It runs surprisingly well except for a little vibration at idle which I attribute to the cylinder.

    I strongly believe improvement was the aggregate result of the above, but overall, I believe the biggest culprit was vacuum. I'd be surprised if any of your cylinders failed compression.

    You will have to learn how to backprobe devices with a voltmeter.

    See harborfreight.com for good prices on gauges.
  • Thanks,
    I did spark plugs today and a friend helped me check the spark. (Hes got the tool)
    I checked the hoses that the dealer recommended I replace. But I plan on going back tomorrow to give it a better look when there is some more light outside.
    There is a harbor freight right up the street from me, never go there but i'll check out the prices next time im out.

    Thanks for the advise.

    Also I had a 97 jeep with the 4.0 and the engine went strong till 240K when a piston rod came lose. (that's just what I think it was never opened it up) Replaced that motor with a 98 Cherokee's 4.0 with about 90k about 2 years ago. Gave it to my younger sister about a year ago and its still running strong. Loved that 4.0 it just never knew when to quit.
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