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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Ask the dealer
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I have a 97 JGC (4.0L I6) and my liftgate pistons had to be replaced because they wouldn't hold the liftgate up. I had a body shop do it because I think any door repair needs 2 people.

    It took me a couple a months but I got my jeep running good again last summer. I couldn't get it to idle as smooth as it used to. I did a compression test and 1 cylinder was slightly out of spec. I have an engr background so I think it interferes with smooth idle. Acceleration and power are OK

    See the Haynes manual for service recommendations.

    P.S. If its running poorly and std tuneup does not help, consider replacing the intake/exhaust gasket if its never been done. It's not easy, but doable.
  • Thanks tuggajb. Yes you are right that it has timing chain instead of belt. Unlike the timing belt, the timing chain lasts forever in other words it doesn't need to be replaced at certain mileage.

    OIIIIIIIO
  • The transmission will go into four wheel drive part time but wont go into four wheel drive full time. This is on a 2001 grand cherokee with a six cylinder engine. Is anyone else having a similar problem with a solution.
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    close-but no cigar..while a timing chail last's maybe double the life of a belt,i spent a winter's weekend replacing the chain -and drive gears(nylon covered aluminum),on a 77 ford f150-351/m/400..-cause that's all i had to get to work..why do things like that wait till crappy weather to go out?? couldn't have been a decent spring day.? !
    -so,chains DO go out,just not nearly as often.. :sick:
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    fords are noted for that same as chevy
    jeep last a long time have 210000 miles on a 4.7 never had a problem still dose not use oil between changes and use mobil 1 and change at 7500 miles
  • Jeep is full time 4WD AWD - I get a howling / whining noise from what appears to be the front end of my Cherokee - I only get the noise when I am accelerating and maybe a second or two after I take my foot off the gas pedal. If I am coasting in drive or neutral no noise. As soon as I hit the gas - the noise comes back instantly. The noise gets louder with increased speed - turns to more of a howling. I took it to one place and they said it was the front drive shaft - they took it out, drove it, and said the noise went away.

    Took it to a gear guy and he said not in the drive shaft - he thinks its a rear end noise? Another guy said it could be the transfer case? Anyway to diagnose the problem from the symptoms? I don't know a lot about cars but the it would have to be something that "engages" when pressing on the gas right?

    Also at times if I am backing up and have the wheels cut really hard I will get a clunking noise that seems to be coming from the front end as well. Any help would be appreciated. The Jeep is full time AWD - it should be noted that the noise started when NTB only replaced the two front tires and left the old rears on - a friend said that you have to replace all tires at once or it could harm the transfer case due to the differences in diameter. As soon as I heard that I went back to NTB and them install two new tires on the rear (now a matching set). The noise started very faint but has grown in volume - you can feel the "whine" in the peddle a little bit but becomes most appearant once you hit around 30mph or so
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    You definitely need a Chrysler shop manual. I have a 97 JGC and I bought mine on ebay as a PDF file. Below are some excerpts.

    1. Driveline Vibration

    "Tires out of round or unbalanced wheels will cause a low frequency vibration...Brake drums that are unbalanced will cause a harsh, low freq vibration....Driveline vibration can result from loose or damaged engine mounts....Propeller shaft vibration increases as vehicle speed is increased. Vibration in a specific range is not usually caused by an unbalanced propeller.Defective universal joints or an incorrect propeller angle are usually the cause of such vibration."

    2. Transfer Case Noise

    "Insufficient or Incorrect lubricant. Drain and refill. Disassembly and inspection may be necessary to locate source of noise."

    ---------------------------------------------------------------

    Given age of vehicle make sure rubber boots on CV joints are not leaking or soaked in oil. If they are not dry, you have a lubricant leak and who know how long it has been leaking.

    Ideally, if you can find a way to operate vehicle without the transfer case, even if speed is limited, it may help you diagnose the problem.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    my 2000 jeep grand ch has made a noise sense 78000 miles now have 214000 miles i just turn up the radio a little bit my noise will go away when you remove front drive shalt but need 4 wheel drive most of the time
    ring and pinion in the front that seams to make the noise i just dont worry bout it
  • taffy3taffy3 Posts: 26
    Probably a worn front end diff. I had a similar noise and thought it was a bearing running out. Proved not to be the case. So put the front of the Cherokee on stands and removed wheels and front half shafts. Noise didn't dissappear but changed. So removed front drive shaft between transfer case and front axle. Noise gone. As I only use the car on the road I left it like that. Runs better, corners better with reasonable understeer (safer) and I get an extra mile or two for my gallon (less friction). Try it.
  • I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and the heater just dosent produce any heat. The temperature of the motor is good but the heater just gets slightly warm. I am looking at replacing the heater core but need to know if that is going to fix the problem or if there are other problems I need to check first because the heater core is an expensive repair job. Any help is welcome.
  • I presume you checked your thermostat. Also if you have air conditioning you may have a control valve that keeps hot water from entering the heater core. If so that may be closed. Hope that helps.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I looked at my 97 shop manual. The diagram shows the blower motor and A/C evaporator mounted in the same duct. Next it shows a "Temperature Blend/Air Door". If this door is open then then the air passes thru the heater core. If not, the heater core is disconnected from the duct.

    Everything is electrically controlled.

    Temp gauge should be up to normal within 5 minutes of leaving the driveway unless you are idling. If it is very slow then your thermostat is stuck open and it will take a long time to get warm air from the heater so for a short 15-20 min. trip you never get much heat. However, it eventually should warm up. Where I liive our coldest days are in the 20's and my jeep is parked outside.

    I am not sure but I don't think there is any control valve to control circulation of engine coolant thru heater core. Check the Haynes manual. Find where the heater hoses go thru the firewall. Make sure they get warm.

    I'd make sure warm up is normal (thermostat OK) and then look at how the duct is controlled. To do it yourself plan on some disassembly of the dash which I always find time consuming, but it can be done.
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    spend a few bucks at a reputable repair shop,and have the cooling system power flushed..they can send coolant both ways through heater core,and probably clear any blockage..if core isn't leaking-(interior would smell of hot coolant,pass floor would be wet) then replace core..
    -they will b able to tell u what's wrong..
    -if engine temp gauge is hot,and temp knob is turned all the way in the red zone-you should have heat..you should have a gauge-and normal operatimg temp is around 200% f,..try that b 4 you dive into tearing dash apart..also,online repair manuals are online at advance auto and autozone..more detail than a haynes manual,just print out your findings-keeps you from getting greasy keyboard(lol)
  • 2000 jeep cherokee 6 cyl 4.0 L in park key turns all dummy lights come on but nothing happens shift to neutral jiggle the key and it starts. could this be the neutral safety switch or the linkage out of adjustment and if so need some instructions to repair.
  • When you change the settings dial to--- floor,-- face,-- both-- and defrost does the air flow change? You can feel the heater hoses in the engine compartment as they enter the firewall and if both are hot the heater core is getting flow thru it. I had similar problem but was able to come up with a fix.
    Let me know if there is no airflow change as you dial the switch and I will tell you what I did.
    Good luck
    Smokey
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    yes..sounds like th safety switch to me. try putting it in park "harder".,and see if it helps,but the jiggleing part even in neutral sounds like it's gone out of adjustment,or going bad,and replacement time..
    -advance auto-online has service manuals..look up the part,and after that,yhere's usually a "how to fix it"link..saved me a lot of greif. :sick:
  • Hi I had the same problem, I took my front drive shaft out and my front end noise was gone but was told running it without the drive shaft in it would damage the transfer-case viscus coupler by a reputable a transmission shop, which doesn't make sense. so i replaced both right and left front axles since the boots were bad anyway but the noise and binding is still there. Id love to take the drive shaft out again if I knew for sure it wouldn't damage anything. By the way I drove the thing for a week with out it with out any problems but again the trans guy said its not a good idea so i put it back in. how long have you drove your jeep without the front drive shaft...Thanks
  • I haven't had the front shaft out at all - the repair shop that I took it to removed it for a test drive then put it back in.

    I wish I knew what the problem was - I don't want to spend money rebuilding the front and rear diff, put a new drive shaft in and then find the noise still there and the problem lie within the transfer case - with all those repairs I would spend more than the car is worth - I should probably try to trade it in and just say goodbye to it. The one guy that said the transfer case was the issue mentioned the clutch within the transfer case was probably burnt out because NTB only replaced the 2 front tires and not all 4 tires as required in an AWD car (I didn't know it would mess anything up or I would have replaced all 4). Anyway, since the front tires were smaller diameter it caused havoc in the transfer case he says - makes sense I guess - I was just hoping it was something easier to fix and cheaper!
  • taffy3taffy3 Posts: 26
    Hi Hobartus? I've run it on rear wheel drive only for over a year now. Your 'reputable transmission shop' is looking for business. Forget them. If there is no resistance from the front, the transfer case assumes the wheels are spinning without grip. It therefore applies all the torque to the rear shaft, where you want it. I would only recommend it for road use but remember, it does cause some understeer and maybe a little tyre scrub on tight turns.
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