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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair



  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    try your local auto parts store--usually those guys will come out-and help you diagnose the problem!..
    -i've worked on cars for many moons,and when things went "computerised",everything got even more complex..
    where the parts guys help,is they sell a lot of parts,and common problems follow the engine-or brand of car..
    --then,add -german engineers-who do things verry well,but-at times,their tolerances aren't dealing with a twenty some-year old car ! your-and my "dalmer/chrystler-jeep drives great,but fixing it is a whole nother level of aggrevation!

    --look for a "low oil sensor"..and forget the computer.!.!.. READ THE DIPSTICK ! ! !
    --cause-if you overfill it with oil-you'll blow out the seals,and end up with a lot more trouble than you got now!..
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    hook up th throtle cables backwards??
    see if th butterfly-air intake valve is working right..
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    cap?rotor?wires?coil?--probly cap-n-rotor..
    --when it's not starting,check the basics..fuel+spark+air=fire !
  • linrlinr Posts: 14
    i have a 95 jgc 4x4 6cyl. auto. my problem is the front wipers only works on low and high. how do i get the intimediate to work? and if i have to replace the motor, how do i do this?
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    If it was the motor, it wouldn't work at all. The problem is most likely the control mechanism. I replaced motor for rear wiper on my jeep and problem was the control switch. You will probably have to replace the entire stem that has the wiper control.
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    probly contacts in th switch,,..and that probly includes the whole multi-function lever(turn/hi beams/wiper)..
    -ever r+r'd a sterring colum switch?..
    personally,that's one of those things i'd problt just live with,as long as they still work! had many old cars where that wasn't even a option..
    --other option,learn to press in-like for wasker-but not waste fluid?!..tha'd work ! :sick:
  • My son-in-law is having a problem with the car losing power for several minutes while driving. \r\nThere will be a sever lose in power and drop in RPM. Car feels like it is going to stop running. This can last for several minutes.
    This problem started in the last couple of weeks and is getting worse.
    Fuel Problem?
    Electrical Problem.
    Injector Problem?
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    edited April 2010
    have ya done th basics.tune op,etc? even opened the hood,and checked for woodland creatures ?..
    sorry,not a good time,but lots post here-b4 they even open th hood and check oil !!!!
    it wastes time,
    --see if the car's TOO quiet..if so,clogged exhaust..climb under itwith a =-LARGE hammer-,and beat the hell out of the catylitic convetrter.! worked for me..
    ---and -quit "babying it !..we used to have a thing called a "tenesee tune up",where a REAL driver,would take grandpa's rolling sofa,getb it warm-then---KICK IT IN THE BUTT!!,and watch large black clouds of mcrap come out the yailpipe!..nowdays,all that collects in the converter...
    -americans but crappy gas-din't tune-cause it still starts-then wonder why "it ain't runnin??..try -maintence-- :mad:
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Do a fuel pressure check to eliminate obvious. Since you have an intermittent problem it will probably be OK. I would also replace the fuel pump relay just to make sure it isn't something simple. They get hot and over time the heat deteriates components.

    My guess is engine electrical or dirt (e.g. dirty throttle that sticks).

    I would inspect ignition wires and pull each plug and inspect. Pull the boot and not the wire! Only replace them if you see a problem, but not if they look OK. In my experience, I've not seen a tuneup solve a significant problem when plugs and wire pass physical inspection.

    But if you have a broken or fouled sparkplug that's different. When you install ignition wire you should feel a slight click when it mates with the plug electrode.

    You will probably need a trained/experienced mechanic who will know exactly what to check and how to make an intelligent guess of a solution. With this type of problem, what you end up with is trial and error.
  • will67will67 Posts: 2
    hey, I have the same problem about 2 years ago, I had the problem for example after running the truck for couples of stops it wont start on. In order to turn on would have to give it couples of hrs or even a day and the problem was the crankshaft position sensor its located some were by transmission dont remember.
    I hope its help,
  • will67will67 Posts: 2
    Help! well I happy with my JGC have for 5 yrs + whit 235 th... miles, very good car can't complain, but right now its shutting/turning off during a complete stop, the good thing is that I'm able to start it righ back on after turning /shuting off or by given 2 to 3 mins, can somone please advice or give a hand?
  • I suspected that this might be the cause of my problem based on my research. Did you replace the part yourself or did it require a mechanic?
    It looks like the sensor (airtex 5s1730) can be purchased for around $30. I'm hoping this might be a quick and easy fix. Could I be so lucky?
    Thanks for replying
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    i yhink will76 is right..especially if you've got the six cyl..
    --it's a royal pain to get to,as it's on the BACK of the motor,using the flywheel for the moving part of the sensor's only the size of a ball point pen,but i heard where you gotta loosen the motor-to get it out..!...
    --best left to someone who'se done it b4..
    maybe 200- :sick: 500 in a shop..
  • lance64lance64 Posts: 1
    I had the same problem on my 1999 4wd GC.You are hearing noise from the front hub bearings. Mine started getting noisy at 135,000 miles. The recommended method to check them (jacking up and pulling sideways on the wheel to check for play) did not indicate they were bad. But, I suspected them anyway because whenever I would spin a front wheel by hand, I could hear the noise (same pitch, but not as loud).

    I put the best bearing assemblies I could afford on it (Timken, purchased through Autozone @ around $80 each side), and the noise completely went away! For these hearings, you buy the whole assembly, not just wheel bearing like on a car. These assemblies are very strong.

    When I removed the old bearing assemblies, they still had grease in them and still turned freely, but I could feel needle-spaced racheting on the left one when turning then slowly by hand. So that was the problem. Always replace them in pairs. Good luck with your Jeep.
  • bruno5bruno5 Posts: 5
    Hi guys, I need help with my 4.0 please. I'ts got 135,00 hiway miles on her. Very good shape yet. When I go out in the morning it starts first thing fine and dandy[ If the battery's not dead, just replaced it but it still drains], But when I stop somewheres and come back out it starts but runs very rough, like it's not running on all cylinders. If I drive it a block, it settles down and runs fine. It seems to need to be driven a block to sort itself out, it won't settle down just sitting and running.
    I tried some tune-up things- plugs, wires, fuel filter- runs the same. This problem is not consistent, it's not every restart.

    Thanx for any help--Bob
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Get the Haynes manual and do all the emission control checks. Check for vacuum leaks. In addition, something may be draining your battery overnight and/or alternator output may be inadequate. Vehicle should run off the alternator, but if it cannot provide enough current, engine will draw from the battery.
  • bruno5bruno5 Posts: 5
    Thanx for your reply. In reply to the emission control part, what item would cause the jeep to start like it's running on 3 cylinders, yet run perfect after 1 block? I believe I wrote that in the post.

  • I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7 . I have recently had the motor rebuilt. and they tell me, my pre cat and aft cat are plugged. It is very expense for these. I also live in San Diego, Ca. So, the dealer is the one that carry the cats. I need other place or someone who can sell me there used ( but good ) Catalytic Converter. I have found after market cheaper. But they won't ship to California even if they are OB-II. Can anyone help me.
  • Yes, I am interested as well. This happens in my 2000 JGC occasionally, especially when it is warm. Cold starts don't have the issue most of the time.
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    cali emissions control board are the strictyest inth land,

    lived in lala land for 8 yrs,and-no-NOBODY will sell you used cat's illegal,plus,the platinum in those makes th resale value utrageous..

    my best sugestion..
    first,is th exhaust on th car> if they're off,take a soft-brass HAMMER,and knock th crap out of them.. i found a old ford aerostar i got way cheap..would start,but when you'd try to accelerate-even in park,it'd die.. went to the exhaust pipe,and listened--it was TOO quiet.. figured it was kinda like "th bananna in th tailpipe" syndrome,where in fact-=like most american drivers-they "baby" their cars,and seldom clear out th exhaust-by "kicking it in th butt"every now and then..add to that,the cheap CRAP they sell us for gasoline,and the converter gets plugged..out of shear desperation,i climbed under it,and took my 28/oz framing hammer-and tried my best to knock a hole in th metal(after th shield came off),was so soft,it wouldn't make a hole..ten minutes of really hitting it,i gave up-for then..just to try it,went and started it up..a HUMONGUS cloud of coal black smoke came out th tailpipe,and that van never ran better!!...i did give it a new o2 sensor,but drove that truck till th wheels fell off-for over five yerars !
    you might want to try knocking th crap loose,maybe put a new muffler,as those are only $50 buks or so,some new o2 sensors,and give THAT a try ! :lemon:
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