Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair



  • My Cherokee is having so many different problems and I don't know how to handle all of them. If anyone has any suggestions or have had the same problems, PLEASE HELP ME !!

    The brake light doesn't work on the driver's side only when the headlights are on. I replaced all of the sockets per a mechanic and all was well. Now it is doing it again. I checked the socket and the bulb and both are fine. I am not sure what to do at this point. I can't afford to take the car to the jeep dealership or even get a mechanic to work on it knowing how expensive it will be.

    The heater is not working. It started off only on the passenger side, but now it doesn't work at all. I have read other posts talking about the door needing to be replaced. Lots of people are saying to get a heater repair kit and do it myself. Does anyone know how difficult it is to do this? Once again, I can't afford to have a mechanic do it.

    The power windows on the driver's side don't work. Every once in a while they will work for a couple of minutes, and then stop again. Then a couple of weeks ago I noticed the front window was down a little bit. It appears the window if off its track because it slips down by itself. I have had to stick something down into the window to keep it from slipping down by itself. Has anyone else had this problem?

    If anyone has any suggestions, I would really appreciate it!
  • The CV joint in my front drive shaft started making a whistling noise awhile back and during my research for solutions I read that Jeep in there infinite wisdom advises that this particular drive shaft can't be rebuilt but instead needs to be replaced (Hayne's shop manual).
    I have heard some rumors that you can have a new shaft made with u-joints instead of CV joints, that can also be periodically greased.
    If you know anything about this please contact me. I need to replace this before it get's any worse.
    Thank You,
  • I see you posted this a few months ago, but none the less, I would NOT buy a cherokee. I love mine, but have had nothing but problems with it. It is getting to the point where I cannot afford to repair it anymore and need to get another car. It is too bad, because they are nice cars. What did you decide to do? Did you buy one or not?
  • I've had her forever and beat her to death, she's never let me down. 8 cyl motor all stock. Last Friday I noticed the radiator overflow looked funny so I looked down in it and it looked and smelled like used motor oil, not oil/antifreeze mixed but straight oil. I checked the oil in the block and it was clean. I checked the antifreeze and it was clean. Thought my son might have added oil to the overflow by mistake, and cleaned it out. Drove it to work and checked it again and found oil in there again. This has me stumped. Clean oil, clean antifreeze, good oil pressure, not overheating but I'm getting clean oil in the radiator overflow. I would think it's the head gasket but I dont have the brownish milky oil or antifreeze I've seen in the past on other vehicles with a cracked head or blown gasket. A buddy of mine asked a mechanic he knows and was told that theres a seal on the underside of the intake that causes this but I dont see how that could be. I mean how does oil get to tha overflow without mixing with the antifreeze. Has anyone seen this or have any ideas?
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Are you sure it is motor oil? It could be dirty transmission fluid. I bought a used pickup and trans fluid was black because it had never been serviced. Trans fluid cooler is integrated into radiator assembly. Inspect lines and fittings at radiator. Is your trans fluid level going down? Service trans and put clean red fluid in it. Find out if you have an oil cooler option. Could be integrated or a small seperate radiator mounted on radiator assembly. One other thing. Pressure test radiator. Where I live you can borrow one from Autozone. The pressure should hold for an hour.
  • volbuildervolbuilder Posts: 1
    edited August 2010
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    trans cant get in the engine oil pan
    is trans fluid going down with out a spot on the ground then check inside the rad see if going there also see if transfer case is over filled if the seal at the rear of trans goes the fluid can move to the trans fer case over fill it by 2 to 3 quts before coming out the vent or blowing the drive shaft seals
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I concur with previous opinion. Somewhere the fluid is leaking and entering at one of the engine seals. Most likely it is the rear cover seal. I think you will have to pull the trans to inspect it.
  • i have a 1993 jeep grand cherokee and the right side rear power window is not working. I have tested the regulator motor and it is ok. I don't seem to have power going to the switch on the door, however there is power to the switch on the driver's door and all other windows work, any ideas
  • Drink holder of middle glove box (rear side of glove box) is stuck in open position. How do you access drink holder to repair or get it to close?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    screws at bottom of box hold it in
  • Hi. My 2000 Grand Cherokee has been acting up. It started with fake messages in the vehicle information center. Sometimes it beeps three times but doesn't show a message. Sometimes it beeps three times and flashes either "coolant low" or "washer fluid low" just for a second. This will happen every few minutes while driving. Now it's also failing to start. Sometimes it will start right up and sometimes it won't start at all. This morning, while driving, it just shut down completely and without warning. It wasn't running roughly or sputtering, it just shut down. Does this sound like the PCM is in the process of dying? Thanks, in advance, for your help.
  • Hello there ,
    I've had my cherokee for going on 5 years now. 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo with the 4.0 6cyl in it. had a few issues over the years and a couple sound like what you have now. Though I have to be honest , your issue sounds alot like electronics and probably ( unfortunately ) even the Brain ( computer mod ). The Cherokee can be sensitive when it comes to that display and even the engine light can display when she wants new oil. I have had the low coolant light come on simply because the overflow was near empty. It did refuse to start at one time but it turned out to be the locking mechanism throughout the steering column. Whatever the case don't give up on your Cherokee , the vehicle is one of the best I have ever owned and the 4.0 is by far the best engine built in my opinion ( plus it has been around for a long time and all the bugs worked out of it ) - Best of luck with it my friend... take her to the Doc , she will love you for it. John -
  • This happen to my 2000 JGC and it turned out to be the battery that was on its way out
  • Radiator fan won't come on,fuse is good but no power to fan motor, is there a temp sesor
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Find out where the relay is. The fuse will blow if the circuit is overloaded. The relay is used to switch the fan on and off. Typically, the engine computer switches it on/off based on engine temperature. You can hot wire the fan to make sure it isn't the fan before you replace the relay. In my ford the relay was in a module with other relays so I had to replace the module.
  • I have 2 questions, both unrelated.

    1. It sounds like the fan is continuously running and as the engine speeds up the fan speeds us. It sounds sort of like a rumbling... Is this caused by a faulty fan relay? How do I replace and cost?

    2. The AC quit working on both sides of the vehicle. It is equipped with the dual climate control system. I have seen where some people have issues with warm air coming out one side and cold on the other, but this doesn't seem to be the same. I can adjust the air warmer, but the AC never gets cold. The code put out does say blend door range too small. Also compressor does come on and hoses do get cold, just no cold air inside.. What’s the repair and cost?

    Thanks much!

  • uncfuzuncfuz Posts: 5
    Car has been running fine. Has 225,000 miles. The OD switch light has been constantly on for a while but shes run fine. The other day she started, was running parked for a bit, I turned on the AC, put the windows down, put her in reverse and she stalled and wouldn't start again. Engine turns over but get nothing. Looking at the wires I saw a crack so replaced the wires cap and rotor. I checked for spark and it was there so I know the crankshaft postponer sensor is working. Even took a plug out and saw it sparking. So I have spark. I disconnected the battery to clear any codes on the computer. After I reconnected the battery the first two tries it just cranked but then she started. She ran smooth. I turned her off and tried again and started right up.

    I proceeded to take her for a drive and two miles down the road she started running rough and stalled. She wouldnt start again. I went on to check if I have fuel. Fuel pressure gauge went up to 40 and maintained. Can press the shrader valve and gas comes shooting out. It had been a while since I change the fuel filter so I replaced that to make sure I was getting unrestricted gas flow. When I disconnected the filter the line drained itself all the way to the engine. Once the filter was in I cranked it and she wouldnt start but the fuel rail had pressure and gas again. I can press the shrader valve and get several bursts of gas out before the pressure goes down.

    Since I have pressure and gas to the rail next thing I checked was the injector wires. I plugged a noid into the connectors and when I crank the engine the noid lights up that they are getting power. So I dont understand if I have spark, gas to the rail, the injectors are connected to the rail, I have power going to the injectors then why am I not starting. I pulled the plugs and they seem to be dry.

    I was told it has to be your fuel pump. That it builds pressure and doesnt maintain it. When the pressure gauge is on it reads over 40 and when you stop stays at 40. Doesnt drop past 40. The book says it should read 14 or 15 lbs.I read that if it doesnt start to test the fuel pump take off the air hose on the throttle body and shoot carb cleaner inside. If she starts that way its the fuel pump not having enough pressure. It wouldnt start or flutter when I shot the carb cleaner in.

    If it is the fuel pump I have no problem replacing it. I just dont want to replace it if thats not the problem. Rather not spend be 300 on a part I dont need. If it wasnt reading 40lbs at the rail and me seeing how much comes out of the shrader I would believe that the fuel pump is the cause. I dont think all 6 injectors failed at once. I dont think they would fail then run smooth then fail again. But my gut is telling me there has to be a sensor I am overlooking or an electrical problem not the fuel pump. I just dont know what to check or how to test more than I have. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

    I did have someone suggest pulling the rail and seeing if the injectors shoot. I am not sure if the rail needs to be grounded to test this but I will be trying that later today.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I think you have a vacuum leak and/or air supply problem which is causing improper air/fuel mixture. I just solved a stalling hesitation problem on a 96 minivan. There were a few times it wouldn't start after it stalled. Test all vacuum lines and any vacuum reservoirs. PCV valve and grommet should be tight. Make sure your foot is not touching the accelerator when you start it and give it at least 7 seconds. Stepping on it opens the throttle and lets more air in. My experience was that the engine uses MAF sensor to know how much air is entering to control fuel injectors to get right air-fuel mixture. If air is entering someplace else, the engine computer will not know it causing the air-fuel mixture to be diluted. You can try plugging vacuum ports to see if it helps, but some ports are necessary. In my own case the culprits were a cracked EGR tube which I damaged when I replaced EGR valve. It goes from exhaust manifold to EGR valve. The other big culprit was the power brake booster. It's vacuum reservoir is large. You can plug its port to see if it helps you start, but don't drive anywhere: you won't have any brakes. I also replaced my EGR valve because I have no way of knowing if it is stuck open or closed.
  • taffy3taffy3 Posts: 26
    As a simple test, swap the fuel pump relay with a similar one - the wipers or horn could do it. These relays fail intermittently for a while before total failure. If that is the problem, change them all as they'll be coming to the end of their life.
Sign In or Register to comment.