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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair



  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    edited November 2010
    I had this exact problem. Excessive off current drain. You need an ammeter that will measure at least 10A down to 10mA. First, remove bulb mounted in the hood, otherwise it will interfere with measurements. Make sure all doors closed. Connect ammeter to battery with long wires. Meter is connected in series with battery cable so you have to remove cable. Gently close hood making sure wires don't get yanked or pinched. Open a door. You should see 3 or 4 or 5 amps due to interior lights. Close door. When lights go out, current should drop to 200-300 mA. Eventually, it may take minutes, the current should drop much lower like 40 mA when the body control module goes to sleep. If it doesn't, then something is keeping the BCM awake. In my case it was a switch on the liftgate window. Can't remember details, but I remember it was a press fit and came loose. If you can't fix it, try cutting the wire or shorting them. Can't remember if it is normally open or normally closed.. BCM has many inputs so it could be something else. If you don't observe this scenario, something other than the BCM may be the problem. After making a fix, repeat test. You will see when you have it fixied.

  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    sounds like that could be it..,and why the alarm keeps trippin..
    wonder if i could just pull th fuse to th body module? th alarm is more a annoyance than a sorely needed thing where i live,plus,it's not like anyones got th hots for a 12 yr old-12 mpg beast!
  • Hello i have a 2007 grandcherokee and i am having issues with the hinges also i have placed a call into chrysler about the problem mine only has 58, on it and the passenger side metal cracked with rust on the inside of the metal and they did noothing to help and now the drivers side hast started doing the same thing so i called again
  • Hi, i thought the same thing that i had to buy new headlights also. turns out that its only oxidation on the front. go get some sand paper starting at 320 go up to 2000 then buff it with plastic polish. they will look brand new i promise you. My girlfriend has this jeep and ive done it twice. better than buying two new headlights.
    Good luck
  • I can't seem to located the auto light relay. When the headlight switch is in the Auto position I can hear the relay click and the dash lights and running lights turn on but not the headlights. The headlights work just fine in manual mode.
    I know the relay is located behind the the Glove box but not sure which one it is since there is no markings telling me. I figure since the relay activates and the dash lights come on etc.. The problem is the relay. Just need to know which one.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I'm sure sanding them improved them, but just let me say the improvement with new ones was sensational. I bought them on ebay for about $35 each. I also replaced the grill for about $70. If your bumper is not cracked, dented or chipped, it makes the front look almost brand new.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    You will need the Jeep shop manual. You might be able to buy one on the web. Another option is look at subscribing to I think you can get a free trial description to get started.
  • I also have buffed quite a few headlights, and with great results. I used wet sanding with 400, 600, 1000 and 2000 grits, drying and inspecting each time. Some of the crusty stuff really takes some patience. I used auto body buffing compound and a professional poilsher. They look perfect!! :blush:
  • Here is a "quick and dirty" method to temporarily get rid of scratched headlight lenses --- wipe them with a shop rag dampened with WD 40. It will last about 2-3 weeks before reapplying.
  • jpavejpave Posts: 1
    The battery is being drawn down. In the fuse panel located inside and down by the feet of the passenger. If I pull fuse #7 (yellow 20 amp) I get a pulsing draw when i have a test light in between the negative post of the battery and the negative cable. Then while that fuse is still out and I pull out Fuse # 20 (Blue 15 amp) the test light goes completely out. According to the owners manual Fuse #7 has a description of "Instrument Cluster, Body Controller, Vehicle Theft Arming Light, Automatic Headlights, Diagnostics Connector, Radio Amplifier" Fuse #20 has a description of "Radio, Automatic Temperature Control, Vehicle Information Center/Graphic Display Module".
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    edited December 2010
    You have identified the components that are drawing the battery down. Now you have to figure out what is keeping them turned on when they are suppose to turn off. You will need a wiring diagram that shows what is connected to BCM or display. Try Look first at electrical inputs triggered by mechanical switches. The problem is you have to remove interior panels to get at the switches so you can probe the wires with your test meter. In my case, the jeep was so old it was "fix it or tow it" plus I could take it offline for a while because I had another car. If your jeep is fairly new you may want to take it to the dealer. They have special tools where they can probe the body control module using the OBD diagnostic port. Doing this yourself will be time consuming. In my case I work at a desk all day and I sort of turned working in the garage to a hobby. But the $ savings are a plus.
  • Wrong Part - I'm trying to find a replacement upper radiator hose for a 98 Jeep Cherokee Sport, 2.5L 4 cycl. engine, 2 WD. I cannot find one anywhere and have ordered the part 4 times and each time get the wrong part. Advance, Auto Zone, and NAPA have all tried ordering the part and when it comes in it's the wrong one. Their computer shows two different part numbers both wrong. Tried going to the dealership and they also showed two different parts but no picture so they didn't know if it was right but it cost $150. Has anyone else had this problem or does anyone know the right part number.
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    many thanks for your sugestions..
    -your first idea-the back glass security switch-witch i simply unplugged-seems to have been the problem!..
    -the fresh battery-witch they upgraded to a larger cold crank-700,(for$26)seems to have helped too..maybe thats what i get for tryin to put a econo-battery in sumpthin with this mutch electrical junk on it..-th old one was a 550..
    --so far,th alarm hasn't gone off-for no reason,bet that glass sensor was it,as i've seen more than one other gcl owner-embarrased when their jeeep is screaming it's head off in the parking lot.!..i might leave them a note-and let them know what WE figured out,might help them out?!
    --if you unplug those fuses,how mutch stuff won't work? sounds like th trip comp,mebee even the instrument cluster,and th remote unlock..and probably.with my luck-cruise keeps me from getting tickets,but i could live without th trip's only function seems to be is reminding me how mutch of a gas pig my 5.2 awd is..-at between 11 to 15 mpg..

    anyhoo,many thanks for your info...time will tell if pulling the glass sensor wire addressed the problem,as i left th sensor on the main hatch,and the button release doesn't work unless th truck is unlocked,so it 's still reasonably secure..
    --thanks! :shades:
  • jervjerv Posts: 1
    edited December 2010
    I have the same issue with my 2001 grand cherokee, did u ever find the answer?
  • Dear friends
    I found oil on spark Plug No.1 when I changed spark plugs for my car jeep grand Cherokee Lerado 2008 3.7L, after I installed the new set, I lost the engine power and the rpm go down into 0.5 rpm, I made computer check I found that coils no 1, 2 , 4 not working well and the air temp. sensor not working , I changed all, then I discovered that I lost about 1 kg from engine oil, please this lost related to the inactive spark plug or there is no relation between the lack of oil and the inactive plug, if there is no relation is that refer to problem in my engine , it start burning oil, ( there is now white smoke get out from exhaust, and when I opened the splay oil cover on the top of motor while the engine work also no smoke get out from this gap) please I need your immediate help
    :cry: :sick: :confuse:
    Thanks & Best Regards
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    how many miles? first step would be a compression test.. sounds like the oil rings on the oiston are worn,or a broken ring might've scratched the wall of the cylinder..
    -you might get by with some "marvel mystery oil",,some in th crankcase,and some in th gas tank-for upper cyl lube..might free up a stuck ring?!..good luck!
  • My heater, turn lights, backing lights stop working I checked the fuse, and found that it had blown, I replaced the fuse and started my Jeep, tested the heater and turn lights, everything worked fine, but once I put it on gear it blew the fuse. I replaced the fuse again, and it blows it everytime I put in gear. I believe I have a ground problem, but don't know where to check.
  • linrlinr Posts: 14
    95 jeep gc driver side low beam went out still had high beam replaced bulb worked fine. week later passenger side low beam went out still had high beam. replaced bulb worked fine. week later driver side low beam went out still had high beam. so now i have 1 low beam and both high beams. could anyone know what the problem is . thank you.rked fine
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I just replaced the head lights on my 97 JGC. Bulb, connectors, and wiring are very straightforward. First, unless you a very careful you can damage the wiring/connector when you remove it so carefully inspect the connector. You may have compromised it, bulb stops working, you replace bulb, but you temporarily fix the problem when you put connector back. Look at where wire goes into back of connector. Make sure it doesn't look like it may have been pulled out some or if insulation looks damaged. Next, try a high quality OEM type bulb. Next, given age of vehicle I would replace the light switch. Mulfifunction switches can fail in funny ways. After that, it will probably be easier to rewire it using splices instead of trying to find the fault. My biggest mistakes in the garage have been cases where I broke one thing while I was trying to fix someting else.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Try a fuse with 5A more rating. You may have an aging component that is drawing more current than what it was originally designed for. Find out exactly what "heater" components are on this circuit and then disconnect them. If it doesn't blow you know where the problem is. Probably a blower motor or a switch. I'd be stunned if your backing lights and turn lights were blowing a fuse. One other possibility is the Park,Neutral,Safety switch if your model uses one to contol back up lights. The switch is screwed into the transmission. My vehicle is 97 so I don't know about the new designs.
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