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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I am redoing front suspension on my 97 JGC. A circular rubber pad called the jounce bumper sits inside the coil spring. Looks like it softens the blow if the suspension drops so hard that the shocks can't stop downard travel completely. Mine is all crumbly and rotted. Can't find any info about removal and installation. Looks like there is a metail fasterner in the center of it, but no place to put a screw driver and it doesn't look like a hex bolt. Please advise. Thanks in advance
  • My Jeep will only start if I give it gas. Once I let off the gas, it shuts off. Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be?
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    edited December 2010
    First, measure your fuel pressure. Odds are its OK, but you never know. It does run so you know you are getting spark. The air-fuel ratio must be 14.7 to 1 or no go. My educated guess is that somehow you are leaking air into engine that computer does not know about. Faulty emission control, manifold gasket. etc. When you put your foot on the gas, the injectors inject more fuel and a small leak isn't big enough to make it stall. But at idle you are only running 600 rpm. Small air leaks make the mixture too lean. Another possibility is something wrong at the throttle: cable, throttle position sensor, idle air control valve, etc. I guess I would check the throttle first. Clean it thoroughly if it looks dirty.

    My 97 jeep had all kinds of leaks and sat all summer. I just got it fixed and at 180K engine still runs with original fuel pump and injectors; not smooth, but it runs. 4.0L I6.
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    plugged catylitic converter..had a v6 ford van that started,but would die when put in gear,or accelerating even in neutral.. out of frustration,hammered th converter,a huge cloud of black crap cameout,then it ran great!
    gotta listen,and see if it's TOO quiet..plugged exaust?
    :lemon:
  • taffy3taffy3 Posts: 26
    On the side of the air intake and linked to the throttle butterflies, there is a variable resistor that controls the flow of fuel to the injectors. It may be cracked or the track may be worn away with use causing a disconnect. The circuit is complete at full throttle. Check voltages at this device, from the manual of your model.
  • Lately I have let both my Son and his wife drive my 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee and I'm getting the same response from them on the surging . . . . Daughter-in-law saw what I meant that when she drove my Jeep and stepped on the gas , the vehicle would jump forward rapidly and she said to me that now she believed me when I was driving and it would happen to me she thought I was just speeding off rapidly . I have brought the vehicle back to Jeep and told them about what happens and they said they would talk to the engineer when he came to the shop . . . in other words , nothing will be done .
    So , now I have no other recourse but to notify the National Traffic Safety Board about my problem as they seem to be taking care of Toyotas problem with the surging. Whis me luck all and Merry Christmas to all . :)
  • The airbag light came on today as I was driving down the road. Had the same issue with a Grand Caravan several years ago, only difference, horn also quit working on mini van. Turned out to be the clock spring in the steering column. Horn still working on Jeep. Any ideas as to what could be the problem.
  • If I remember correctly, it's some sort of spring in the steering column area that's horribly difficult to get to and costs about $600 to repair.
  • What did you ever find out about the high pitched sound on your Jeep? I have the same issue and haven't been able to find a solution posted anywhere. Thanks.
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    when i first got my -98 gcl,5.2,awd, the headlights would blink -kinda like the alarm was tripped,but engine was running.. since then, i've found there seems to be a sensor in th headlight circut,because it did that flasing thing when i needed a headlight..
    --i took the headlight switch apart,and found that most of the solder connections had a crack in them.. ire-soldered them,and saved myself the $150 bucks autozone wanted for one with the fog light switch in it,but i've got more time than money..
    hope this helps! :blush:
  • I have a 97 JGC. V8 limited. Turn signals started intermittently not working. Replaced flasher on fuse panel, and turn signals worked fine. One problem. With new flasher, when signals or hazards are not on, new flasher makes a buzzing noise. A mechanic said it was a short in the multi purpose switch in the column. Replaced it, same result. Jeep dealer told me its got to be a short somewhere. All bulbs work, checked wiring to bulb sockets, could not see a problem, visually checked wire harnesses and bundles between column and fuse panel for breaks or pinches, none detected. Has anyone seen this before? If it is a short, how do you find it?
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Take flasher out. If buzz goes away buzz must be due to flasher OR due to the current it is drawing. Use ammeter to measure current while flasher plugged in. You will need jumper leads. Current measured is I. Measure open circuit voltage (should be about 12-14 volts). Call this V. Go to radio shack and buy a resistor, R, where R = V/I. Connect resistor. If you get buzz it's in the car. If not, the buzz was in the flasher. Based on what you said, I'm 99% sure it's the flasher. It may be easier to try another flasher. MAKE SURE IT'S A DIFFERENT BRAND.
  • Hello,

    I need help making a repair decision.

    2001 Cherokee SE 115 K miles 4 door auto 4 x4

    No heat/ No AC

    The serpentine belt broke along with the compressor. (started with loud squeel)

    Total Repair Bill for the belt and comepressor is $675

    I still will not have heat

    Can not fix myself and will have to pay a mechanic for all repairs

    Offered $800 for it Should I take it the $800 or dump money into it and try to sell for a profit?

    Condition is Fair and have had problems in past. Tired of dumping money into it

    Any advice appreciated. :sick:

    Thanks!
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Your heat problem is due to either a problem with a vacuum motor or a vacuum switch that moves the doors in the vent system. Should be $200 max to fix that. Coolant always flows thru the heater core so there's nothing wrong under the hood, unless core got plugged with debris (highly unlikely). If the paint is bad and/or interior ripped I would sell it, but $800 is too low if engine & trans OK. I think you could sell it for more on ebay unless it's all dented up. I have a 97 Jeep with 180K, the paint is starting to get crow's feet, but engine and trans are still good. Your miles is not too high. In TN where I live, decent vehicle costs $8-10K so sales tax alone is $1000!!
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    :cry: agree with other poster,lots of factors--mainly-what could you replace it with for that kinda money?..engine/tranz? tirz?body and paint are usually th last thing i worry about-that slick paint don't get you there!
    --if your mecanic's gonna work on the a/c,then he should b able ta see whatsvwrong with heat-usually the valve that shuts off the hot water,when you turn on the a/c..if u can find it(by th heater core-external to heater box,inline heater hose valve)turn it on in winter,close it in summer shop around,and seee what other mecanics want-but your estimaste ain't bad..
    cars today got LOTS of crap to go wrong,so-learn to fix it yourself,or pay th piper!?!
  • I have a 2001 Grand Cherokee Limited with a couple of heater issues. I did the test to check the computer and got no codes. It just had 00 and when i kept turning the know it just counted up to 99. (not sure if its suppose to do that or not.)

    Firsr issue is the heater is intermittingly shutting off.. There is still power to the display but it will shut off the blower while im driving pretty frequently now.

    Second I am getting poor air flow out of the vents.. The air is hot however just not flowing out much.. The center vents are kinda blowing out the air but the two vents by the doors is almost no air blowing out..

    Im pretty sure the blend doors are good as the air not cold and when I move the dials between driver and passenger the air does change temperature also with no fault codes.

    I did have the heater core replaced before the winter and the guy said the blend doors looked fine.. I dont want to have to pull the dash out again as it was a giant pain in the a**.

    Does anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem would be? Better yet how to fix these problems..

    Thanks

    Greg
  • I have a 2003 JGC and took it to the "Dealer" and they replaced a sensor that said was the problem...Wasn't though. Same problem, had it taken to repair shop and they told us the front control panel shorts out. Replaced it and works fine.. It costs $120, but could get one at a junk yard if you can find a JGC.
    Hope it helps...
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    You will have to get a wiring diagram and find the control wire to the blower motor, i.e. the one that turns it on or off. Then, you will have to splice this wire so you can connect a voltmeter to it. You can do the splice with a crimp connector tool. If you are lucky, you may be able to back probe the wire so you don't have to make a splice.

    It will be very helpful to create a very long clip lead to go from the meter (-) to the battery(-). You can't measure without a good ground. Then you will have to observe it to see if the control is malfunctioning or the blower is malfunctioning. The only alternative is to guess. I learned this the hard way. I once replaced rear wiper motor on my jeep and it wasn't the problem at all. It was the switch. It's not easy, but it can be done.

    There may be an easier way, but this is how I would get started.
  • 2005 Jeep GC heat/AC blower only works on high spped....switch or blower issue ???? fuses??
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