Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

jerrymail

I'm the one with the '98 JGC: I think cleaning out the hole at the bottom of the plastic housing and using the silcone around the connection in the firewall has solved my problem. I've gone 5 days without any leaks! Good luck guys...

bryanjirvine

were you having trouble starting it, but then it would start after a few minutes? The dealer told me I needed to have eveything changed, not just the o rings. Did this solve the fuel pressure problem?
Thanks

caphilldel

I have the same problem in 1998 JGC SE. In my case it seems to be the fuel float. My tank is actually empty when my gaige reads 1/4 tank. Other than that (single problem) I have beat the crap out of this jeep & havent had anything to complain about. As a matter of fact, its hard to compare it to the new cars, because its been so reliable. I just hit 108,000 miles.

darkstarpa

Why is this happening and what may be the problem
My jeep just started leaking coolant. At first my light cam on and said " Low Coolant". I thought it was most likely just low. I looked under the hood, and it was empty, or almost.
I bought a pre mixed solution and emptied it in. 4 days later, the light came back on.
I added more and see it dripping ( slow) from under the front passenger side up near the front.
Any thoughts on what may be wrong, how screwed am I ? Cost wise etc. to repar.
My Jeep has 168,000K. I just paid it off. LOL.

Any thoughts would be great.

Thanks in advance,

Matt

div2

It's hard to tell what might be the culprit without more information. That said, I'd bet it's either the radiator, a coolant hose, or the water pump.

kibby

I bought a 95 JGC a few months ago... When I turn the auxillary power on, right before starting it, there is a clicking sounds that sounds like a stop watch coming from the fuse box in the engine. When I pull the fuel pump relay and the auto shutdown relay out, the clicking stops. when the fuse box is clicking the jeep will not start. after the clicking stops, on it's own, it will start. after it sits for awhile, it will not start and the clicking starts all over again. Now, the clicking will not stop and I can't get it started... No one can seem to tell me what the problem is... Everyone is stumped... does anyone have any ideas?? By the way, the fuel pump seems to be working fine... Thanks in advance...

xscout

Sounds like it may be starving for air. When you step on the gas a little in addition to adding gas you are also opening the throttle body a little and letting in more air. The first thing I would do is clean or replace the PCV valve and make sure the tube leading to it is clear. This is a common cause of this problem. Also check your air cleaner. If this does not work there is an adjustment to the stop on the throttle body, but you should not have to move it too much. If you do, there is another problem that needs to be addressed.

xscout

Have you checked out the battery? Since you have had it only a few months you may not be able to tell how old it is, but you would be amazed at all the strange electrical problems that have been solved on this forum simply by replacing the battery, even when the battery would still turn over the engine.

wobblyjeep

I have a 92 Jeep Grand Cherokee that I got used. It was ungaraged and has some body rust (and, presumably, undercarriage rust). I live in the Northeast where they use a lot of salt in the winter. By the way, this model has only the all time AWD (you can't turn it off)...so we obviously drive in AWD all the time.

Sometimes, when you hit a bump at normal speeds (~40MPH), the whole front end wobbles and you just about lose control of the Jeep.
My mechanic (who, granted, is a smaller, 1-man operation and doesn't have access to advanced diagnostic info like Jeep dealer would) has checked the ball joints, tie rod, and the shocks/struts and found nothing wrong.
I thought my wife was exaggerating the problem until she told me to try it out for myself. I took the Jeep over a small bump (actually it was a partially sunken mahnole cover in a local road) at about 45 MPH and I nearly lost control of the thing as the whole front end was shaking so violently. I had to slow down to regain steering control of the Jeep. I believe I hit the manhole on the left (driver's) side, if it matters.
My wife is 6 months pregnant and I told her to stop driving the Jeep until we can figure out what's wrong.
I did some searching online in general and on this site in particular and couldn't find anything except some reports of tie rod failures on later model (2000-2001) Durangos.

Is there something else wrong here or did my mechanic miss something?
Thanks

darkstarpa

Thanks for the reply. I spoke with my father about the issue. He said it will be the water pump most likely.
Seems that I can fix for around $175 or so with labor and parts.

390bird

I had the same problem with my bother in laws jeep. Check the on board computer for fault codes, Auto Zone does this for free, I replaced the crank position sensor and it solved the problem. A friend had the same problem and it was the cam position sensor.

390bird

Jeeps can act funny with rust. There are sway bars and traction arms that run form the frame to the axles on the upper and lower area's of the suspension front and rear. I had similar problems with my brother in laws jeep after several inquiries and inspections I ended up having a friend who races or runs monster trucks check it out. He said the bars & arms control handling as well as the shocks. The sway bars are simple and look like a bent piece of 1/2 to 3/4 inch round metal stock. The arms look "U" shaped and connect to the front and rear axles then to the body. If these are fatigued by rust they will flex more and cause the jeep to handle extremely loose. This along with shocks can cause the problem your having. The impact will flex the suspension components & weight of the vehicle will counter and will repeat causing a "yo-yo" effect if you will. I would check these components for rust fatigue and the shocks. I would also double check the front end by jacking under the axle on each side as if the weight was still on the wheel & then check by jacking under the frame, " hanging the front wheels and check for loose components both times using a long bar under each wheel. This will give you more leverage in checking for loose or worn components which may be missed by the standard of holding the wheel by hand and checking for worn suspension parts. I replaced the rear arms two to three years ago for about $30 to $50 each. They may be the same or more. If the shocks are worn I would go with a premium grade shock.

baron_350

Hello everyone, newbie on the board here although I have been reading posts for a while. Can someone give me some advice on a problem with my 01 Grand Cherokee Limited with Quadra Drive? As I accelarate on the highway, when I reach 50 mph, there is a very distinct and bothersome "shimmy" in the steering wheel that has just developed. As I pass 55 mph, it goes away. It seems like only between 50-55 does this happen. I have taken it to 2 independent shops (just spent over $500 on the brake upgrade kit at the dealer less than a month ago and I want to avoid giving them any more money right now!) and neither one can find fault in the tires, rims, suspension components, brakes, or alignment. Both shops have fully examined the Jeep and fail to find a mechanical cause. The second shop tech made mention that he thought it might be something in the electronic 'Brain' that controls the Quadra Drive system that might be causing the 4WD to try to kick in. Has anyone heard of this? It really feels like a mechanical problem to me. Can anyone give me any insight? I would surely love to get a few opinions before going back to the dealership. It's not a huge problem but it is bothersome, and since I'm about to take it on vacation with the family, I definitely don't need any nasty surprises. By the way it has 77K miles and has never had any major transmission or engine work done. Any help appreciated!!!

390bird

My turn, my brother in laws 1994 Jeep grand cherokee, auto trans, when making sharp turns like into a parking space starts to make very loud noises, "people turn to look" and you feel the front end kinda hop. This is even worse when in four wheel drive, like the whole front axle is binding on turns.? I have checked everything I know & to me it seems as though both tires are trying to turn like it is one big long axle or maybe the wheels are turning too far~! My guess is the right and left should "slip" independent of each other. He thinks he had all the fluids changed, but can't find the receipt so I can be sure. I was told "I thought I heard or read..." when changing the axle oil there is a Chrysler "additive" you have to put in to let the limited slip more slippery or to prevent this binding. My parts store contact thinks I was off my meds or something.

The other is his AC doesn't seem to want to drain outside. I have pulled the entire interior and checked what I can of where I think the AC condensate should drain. The condensate drains into the passenger side rear and front. I see no draining outside. I found alot of dirt in the frame rail where I think it is supposed to drain and cleaned this & what seems to be the hose or drain hole. It worked for about a day or two then started flooding the interior again. I have tried pressure washing and air pressure. Any ideas's?
Any ideas or input would be "FOREVER IN MY DEBT" :confuse: :sick: :mad:

div2

It sounds like you've got a case of what we Wrangler owners refer to as "Death Wobble"; any mechanic who claims to knows anything about Jeeps should be well aware of this problem(go to any Jeep forum and search "death wobble" to see for yourself). DW can be caused by any number of things. In your case I would first check the tire balance(dynamic balance the tire/wheel assys-weights on both rim edges), the steering stabilizer, any and all rubber suspension bushings, and the front end alignment. This assumes that your mechanic knew what he was looking for when he inspected the other front end components. He might be a nice honest guy but it appears that his Jeep knowledge may be inadequate to solve your problem.

mservas

Philpomy ... I also have a 98 GC, and have had similar problems with the interior lights flickering on and off. I tested the 4 door sensors and they appear to be working properly (volt-o-meter tested), I suspect my problem is within the rear hatch sensor. Have you continue to have your problem? Any resolution?

wlbrown9

Best place to start is the steering stabilizer (shock absorber like). Probably $30-$60 bucks. Folks say it happens more often on Jeeps with lifts. On non-modified Jeep it is probably the stabilizer.

rschunk

Hi...sounds like the 'death wobble'...I have a 93 JGCL that exhibited the same symptoms. Turns out that replacing the steering stabilizer fixed the problem.

ironbrigade7

Have you replaced you spark coil? I have had the same symptoms in the past and have had three coils go out within 115000 miles on my 94 wrangler 4L.

jkram

I have the exact same problem. My 2005 Jeep grand w/hemi is bucking and hesitating. Your description is perfect, slight grade giving it throttle. I brought it back three times. They changed the oil 'cause DCX, told them to. I am a mechanic on heavy equipment so I know it is not running right. They said give it another 3,000 miles to break in. I'll have a stroke driving it like this. Please, someone get some action on this. I literally spent $38,600 on it and I can't stand it. It is my fifth new Jeep in a row, and I never had any troubles before.
Help, Joe

mday

how many miles do you have, i have almost 11,000 miles and it doesnt get better ,just more noticeable, other times like pulling a boat. any speed unless you can shift to 2nd gear it doesnt really go away seems like a bad coil or plug wire or in 2gears too high all the time, 35-40mph it really sucks but it doesnt get better with miles or oil changes i even did it myself once with the mopar oil and filter no change at all. mechanic at jeep dealer i used to work at thinks it is related to torque converter since it doesnt really do it in 1st or second just surges some in those 2 gears ,but said we will have to wait for a tsb or reprogram for shifts .it seems like the same thing the guys with the other transmission with the water getting in them, same type of problem but i checked the trans fluid and its not milky so leads me to believe its not that. dont you think that even a small amount of water would make it milky? well if you here of a fix please let me know i wish i could lock or unlock the converter just to see if thats it do you know how ? anyway if i hear anything ill let you know,thanks,Mark

wobblyjeep

Didn't realize there was a steering stabilizer. Searching the web for "Death Wobble" gave lots of info
Thanks again

gdc

My 98 JGC randomly stalls at startup:
- turn the key; engine turns over; runs for about 2-3 seconds; stalls
- happens randomly
- when it happens, it will continue this sequence for a random period of time then at some point later (hours or days), will then start and run just fine.
- has been happening since February '05
- I have had the jeep towed 3 times to the dealership
- I have brought it to the dealership 2 other times on top of that (cause it magically started and ran after stalling out many times)
- Also of note (and perhaps related?) is that my dash gauges randomly stop working:
- sometimes right at startup
- sometimes while driving
- sometimes just the speedometer and odometer stop and the others are fine

- the pattern of "start, run for 2-3 seconds and stall" is consistent
- the dealer has replaced the PCM (covered under warrantee)
- the dealer then replaced the BCM (not covered under warrantee)
- the dealer has kept the vehicle for 1 full week's "observation"
- the dealer really does not know what to do next cause it is random and I am tired of being stranded on the streets

It just happened again this morning so this is my 6th trip to the dealer and I/they are lost as to what the cause is. I have read online that it could be security system related and/or fuel pump related.

Does anyone have any good ideas as to what step-by-step process of elimination I could try as I have no confidence in the dealer anymore and this is costing a fortune in towing and service.

Thanks,

Grant (Ottawa, Canada)

jaycee1

Dear JAyne,
I bought a 1989 JC Laredo 4 monthes ago that is having the same problem you describe. It seems it would get us anywhere we wanted to go it just would not get us home. It has cost me over 600.00 in repairs and it still will not start correctly. I can tell you from experience that it is not the fuel pump,the fuel filter, the ignition module, or the battery as we have replaced all of these items. I love the vehicle and it rides great. I have recently heard that the crank sensor is the problem and after reading this from you I am second guessing puttint anymore money into this car. I would love it if you could let me know what you do and if it works. Good luck from a fellow JC owner. Jaycee1/ jaycee8895@yahoo.com

jaycee1

Hey I too have that same problem only once it gets too warm it won't start then either. I have replaced the fuel pump the ignition module the fuel filter the coil and the battery. They are now saying they think it might be the crank sensor. Did this not help your JGC? Please advise. Should I cut my losses or try this out?
Jaycee8895@yahoo.com

tidester

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tidester, host

jkram

I brought it back again today, 5-20-05. I can't believe they don't know exactly what is wrong! Someone at the top of the engineering chain would know right away, if somebody could explain it to him. The drivetrain experts would know in a minute!! They can't expect a dealer to have techs that know everything. If I find out the cure I will post it right away.
Joe

cookie2

My 1995 jeep grand cherokee 4x4 I6 with automatic transmission with 150K miles runs great but twice recently it would not shift out of first gear making it very difficult to drive. :mad: The car returns to normal if allowed to set for a while. Shifting manually into first gear doesn't help. I am a girl away at college and would really like to find the problem. The transmission has been flushed and bands adjusted. Thanks.

marked

hey guys, new to the forums, new to owning a jeep to.
so i was off roading yesteday and my car got stuck in 1/2 meter of mud (was not able to open any doors.) as you all know a cherooke sport does not have any hooks in front or in back (what genius came up with the idea not to include hooks)
ANYWAY long story short i dug for 3 hours in cold mud to wrap a rope around my front diffrental (i hope i wasent an idiot doing so) but i think while pulling me out i might of bent a hydroloc beside the tie rode (whis was leaking from what i saw) andnow the car only turns left and when i go to turn it right it doesent want to give if i try a bit i see the car lowering a bit whil forcing.

can it be that hydraulic that is bent or broke? can it be more serious? and how much you figure it would cost?

Thanks in advance

mfiore

I recently found out from a shop that my 96 GCL needs a new catalytic converter. The original design apparently lent itself to rattling to pieces. At this point I'm numb to the bad news associated with this vehicle and would love to just get it fixed. The shop (known for it's good ethics) told me that the Walker replacement part plus installation (shop rate) would come out to somewhere around $460.00.
When I looked up the part on Walker's website they list it at $119.00. Is it really that hard to put in a catalytic? Is this something I can put in myself?

Thanks!

96jeep

I have a 96 Grand Cherokee laredo The front drivers power lock does not work.How can I check if it is the solinoid or not and how does it come out?Is there anywhere on the net to get procedures and diagrams? Thanks in advance!!

dbarnes727

Mfiore,

I would highly recommend going to a local autoparts chain to have this work done.
I have a 1996 S-10 4x4 and my Catalytic converter went out about 6 months ago.
The dealer quoted me "about $600" to replace it. :sick:

I, like you, thought that was BS so I shopped around and found a Walker at VIP Automotive for $97.12. They installed it for another $141.44.

Grand Total: $238.56.

$ saved by not going to the dealership: "about" 60% :P

lukesjgc

As long as my Jeep is moving, the temp gauge points straight up. But if I am stuck in traffic or in line at the bank, the temp climbs and overheats if I do not get some air flowing through the radiator. It did the same thing almost 2 years ago. I replaced the thermostat and had the radiator flushed. Come to find out, it was the electric fan relay. 2 years later it is overheating again, so naturally I replaced the fan relay ( which is not easy to get to). But this time it did not stop the overheating. I am desperate! Any suggestions for my straight 6 Laredo 4x4?

cookie2

Well here are some things I have read you can check. There is a fuse that disables the vechicle iginition control module preventing the car from starting or continuing to run. The fuse is in the engine and over the years can come corroded. It is a 20 amp fuse,

I believe someone said they fixed this problem by replacing the transmission temperature sensor

Have heard crank shaft sensor can cause lots of problems also.

cookie2

sounds like the crankshaft sensor .. read some post on the internet about the symptoms and see if it matches your symptoms

jeepwhiz

My 2004 Jeep has 8,000 miles when it began lurching and pulling and acting like I had given it bad gas to drink. That's what I thought at first. The car acted strangely like this for 2 days before a warning light came on. I immediatley took it to the dealer who called me later that day to tell me some metal filings and cuttings were found in the transmission pan and they would have to take apart the transmission. The next afternoon they called to tell me my Jeep was ready to be picked up. Everything was fixed. No charge. The service guy said a bearing was bad inside the transmission so they replaced the entire transmission with a new one. Of course, I questioned the service people when I got to the dealership and they finally told me they replaced it with a rebuilt transmission, which was still good for the typical 7 years or 70K miles. They showed me transmission they pulled out of my car -- it was boxed and getting ready to go back to Detroit. The car seems to drive OK, although it did lurch once entering the Interstate. I suppose I want to know if replacing the transmission on a car with 8,000 miles with a remanufactured one is a reasonable solution to this problem. Why do I find a remanufactured transmission in my Jeep terribly disconcerting and an omen of bad things to come? What recourse do I have with the dealer? I'm sure if I insisted that a new transmission be installed in place of the defective one, they'd laugh me out of the place. If it were your car, what would YOU do? Thanks.

matthewkennedy

I took my truck to the Jeep dealership and they hooked it up to the computer and couldn't find anything wrong with it. They then tested the battery and said it was low and that that would be a good place to start. So they replaced the battery for $149. Ever since then, it has worked fine. I sure hope so.

danjeep

I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo with the exact same electrical problems - SOME ONE HELP ME !!! - No headlights, no info center, no AC, no power windows, no windshield wipers (front or back) - Radio works, moonroof works, power door locks work, electrical outlets work, power seat works, and I have dome lights and high beams but the high beems won't latch on. I have brake lights and turn signals but no running lights. No engine problems. I have checked all fuses in car and under hood and they are all in working order. Some one please help - any suggestion useful!

It started after stopping at a gas station and filling up then starting again. At first it wouldn't start and then three cranks later it started but with all electrical problems listed above.

jkram

Ok, I'll check it out. The Jeep is back in again for the problem. The service manager tested it again with me. He is going to do what he can. I'll admit it is not so blatant that you say, "Oh my God!" It is more like, "Yea I feel that, what is causing that?" What is worse is some days it is better than other days.
I have had and still have quite a few Jeeps, I changed the CPS on our '98 Cherokee a month ago, but it wouldn't start at all before I changed it. This is a stutter or bucking.
Thanks, Joe

canddmeyer

Hi y'all. I don't own a Jeep, but was tooling around Edmunds looking for prospective future vehicles and come to find some vehicles using the same engine/tranny combo are having similar issues across different models.
I'd recommend checking other forums using the same engine. For you folks with suspect trannies, check this out:

lgret13, "Chrysler 300 Owners: Problems & Solutions" #559, 4 May 2005 5:32 pm

It's post #559 on the Chrysler 300 problems and solutions board. Apparently water enters the trannies at the base of the dipstick tube. The source of the water is from the air conditioning condensor per other posters. Good luck.

danielle

I just purchased a New 2005 Jeep Grand Cher Limited w/ V8. I have noticed that there is some hesitation with the throttle when I am going up a grade. I am not sure if this is normal due to the fact the torque convertor has a clutch or if I should be worry....Help

Danielle

dbarnes727

Danielle,
Is this V8 the 5.7L Hemi or the 4.7L?

Either way, I don't have an answer for you, but am interested because I'm thinking about purchasing a 2005 Rocky Mountain Edition with the 4.7L V8

-Derrick

roundman

Did you ever get directions to the drain? I have the same problem

lbrown4

Try turning ignition switch on then off fast 4 times and leave on at 4th time for 2 min. This is to reset trans computer. If that does not take care of problem have the trans. speed sensor replaced .

ninjanew

Had incident of 96 JGC jumping from park to reverse with the parking brake set and engine idling. Vehicle actually moved in REVERSE up a slight slope until impact. Has any poster of this site heard of this? Where can I research more?? is this anything of a recognized problem with this year or transmission or shifter??
Thanks

paule

You may want to check www.nhtsa.dot.gov.
I know there was a recall on '98 GCs for this issue. It may have also affected the '96 models as well.

paule

Check the battery terminals. They can look great but still be corroded. Buy a battery wire brush and clean the terminals and posts. See if that helps.

jeepster05

I have been getting into playing in themud with my jeep and have come to find out that it can be a little expensive. I hydrolocked the motor out on a sturday nite ....fillled up the number six with water. So I pulled all the plugs and blew the water out. When I got home I changed out all the plugs two of the fuel injectors (#'s 3 and 4) cut out my clogged catty and replaced the air filter. This help the motor a little bit but not much so I had it checked on a compter at a garage in town and the gave me a few codes one of which was for a map sensor. So I replaced the map sensor which has helped a great deal but the motor is still missing a little bit and I don't know why ! My next move I would think would be to replace the distrubter cap rotar and plug wires but if anyone else has some clue on what I can do pleae help !!!

rbailey

I have a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0, 6-cylinder
The Jeep will start up fine at first. I then drive it down the road about a mile or so and when I come to a stop sign, or I stop, the vehicle STALLS OUT. I then have to press the gas pedal to the floor to get it to start. When it is restarted, I have to hold my foot on the gas a little bit to keep it running, if i let off the gas it will stall out again. After it stalls, if I let it sit for a little bit, it will again start up and sit at an idle fine, until I drive it down the road a mile or two, and the same problem occurs.
Thank you for any help

srqdave

Fuel filter......