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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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  • kmfdm667kmfdm667 Posts: 1
    i have a 1995 JGC Laredo 4.0 i noticed i am leaking coolant from the water pump i tracked the leak to the bottom of the water pump where the hose connects but the thing is i had the water pump and thermostat replaced around 3 years ago over the last 2 years i have replaced the bottom hose and radiator is it normal to have to replace a water pump that soon or could it be a bad gasket or should i give the place that replaced a call its not overheating or anything like that yet but i dont want it to get to that point im stumped thanks in advance for your time
  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Posts: 55
    It is not unusual for a water pump to fail in three years but usually the tell tale leak is from the bearing weep hole, not the bottom of the housing. Coolant can travel funny ways. I would suspect its the gasket, if its coming from the bottom of the housing. I replaced the water pump on my 2004 JGC last month for $50. The new (not rebuilt) pump has a lifetime warranty(Advanced Auto Parts), you can buy the gasket separately for less than $10, or goo it up with permatex and reinstall. If you had it replaced at a garage and have your receipt, see what the warranty terms are. My guess is they replaced it with a rebuilt pump which has a one or two year warranty. Good luck, but you are smart to repair it before it fails and overheats and ruins your engine.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    97 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.ol I6: I gave my kid my old jeep to use at college. He is home for summer and I am using it. I worked on it last summer. Replaced water pump, brakes, etc. and all was OK. I am using it this week and it is consuming about a gallon of antifreeze per day. Nothing looks wet. Not a drop of antifreeze on the floor. Very unusual. I fixed a dozen cooling leaks. Engine runs OK. Nothing conspicuous about the exhaust. If head gasket issue, shouldn't I see or feel something. I have had it since 2000 so I know when it's driving OK. I haven't pressure tested it yet. Radiator or radiator cap? Any input welcome. How should I start troubleshooting?
  • kayunikayuni Posts: 1
    Hi! My Jeep Grand Cherokee 2003 CRD Diesel Engine No: 1J8G8E8A24Y103891has a hard start for the past 3 weeks. I have realized that when it starts, the diesel mixes with the air. There are bubbles flowing through the pipes. I have cleaned the tank. I have bought new diesel filter. I have replaced most of the seals of the pump in front of the engine. We have been looking through the pipe from the tank to the diesel filter. I cannot see any leakage. . When my car is running, it is smooth and has no problem. The only issue is starting. When we start the engine and it is stationary for a while, the diesel starts flowing backwards. The pipes become empty. PLEASE I need some help. If you have any suggestions what next to try, please write back, Thank you!! Samuel Kayuni, Malawi in Africa.
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,049
    I's it throwing any codes? We never think our kids are gonna not have some fun with it. 100+ mph runs, a total lack of care, and has 10k on the oil he never checks....

    Take the damn thing to the shop before it burns up.
  • jsm9jsm9 Posts: 1
    lijeepowner1 did you ever figure out what was wrong with your jeep? I think mine is having similar issues to yours.
  • pole2pole2 Posts: 18
    I have code PO705 i know it is Neutral Safety Switch problem. Anybody know where is switch located in Jeep Cherokee 2007 . Or maybe can tel me more about this code. Thank you.
  • Hello pole2!

    I checked the Service Manual for a failure code P0705 but could not find that code listed. I found a code for P0850-PARK/NEUTRAL SWITCH PERFORMANCE.

    Theory of Operation

    The Park Neutral switch rationality test is enabled only for vehicles equipped with a 4/5 speed automatic transmission. This diagnostic checks if the park/neutral switch is incorrectly stuck in the neutral position during driving conditions by comparing Vehicle Speed, Engine Speed, Throttle Position, and Pressure Ratio to the fail thresholds and by looking at the state of the Park/Neutral Switch. The stuck in drive condition is not explicitly checked as the starter relay does not energize and therefore render the vehicle inoperable.

    This code will set if the PCM detects an incorrect Park/Neutral switch state for a given mode of vehicle operation. Two trip fault. Three good trips to turn off the MIL.

    Possible Causes:

    TRS (T41) SENSE (P/N SENSE) CIRCUIT OPEN
    TRS (T41) SENSE (P/N SENSE) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
    TRANSMISSION RANGE SENSOR
    POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)

    The transmission solenoid/TRS assembly is internal to the transmission and mounted on the valve body assembly. The solenoid/TRS assembly also contains the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) and five pressure switches that feed information to the TCM.

    Hope this helps.

    Lisa
    Customer Care
    Chrysler Group LLC
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,049
    edited August 2012
    I replaced the solenoid pack after this code (it was 1 of 3) at Chrysler service.

    The code never reappeared after that, but in all honesty they replaced the PCM and the ECU too so who knows. Thank god I had the warranty.

    I do know that other than that problem the transmission performed admirably until I sold it.
  • linrlinr Posts: 14
    i have a 95 jgc 6 cylinder auto. for about 3 years this has happened to me about 3 times. when id go to crank her up, nothing happens. all lights and bells, but thats it. so what i do is take a 2x4 and tap on the starter. then she cranks. does this mean i need a new starter, or what. anyone with any ideas. thanks.
  • You can take apart the starter and clean the bendix solenoid which is what is getting stuck. The solenoid pulls the gears into the fly wheel and also the electrical contacts to make the starter motor activate. In the old days you could adjust the distance it moved as the contacts worn. My experience just like yours worked for awhile but eventually you just buy a new starter. It is only two bolts to undo and unhook the electrical. Easy job for DYI. Just remember to undo the negative battery cable or you will light up!
  • It could be the solenoid as wpatters states, or it could be brushes hung up or a dead spot on the armature brush contacts. May just be dirty electrical contacts at the starter. Replacing the starter is probably necessary for a complete cure.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Converter developed annoying rattle so I have to replace it. Reciprocating saw removed converter, but tubing remains that slips over front exhaust pipe. Looking for ideas. It will be a challenge.

    Jeep shop manual says "heat with torch until red hot and then rotate". There is no way that is going to happen because exhaust pipe has an alignment rivet and that mates to a notch in the converter tube. Had to cut converter. You can only slide the tubing. You can't rotate it to break it loose.

    In addition, converter tube has a crease that mates with exhaust pipe crease, creating a crimp effect.

    After 15 years, converter tubing and pipe are bonded.

    Any suggestions? I hate to replace front exhaust pipe
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,049
    Hey. I may be oversimplifying but.....Can't you just take it to Midas?

    Do most of it DIY, and leave the tough stuff to Midas. They have the tools, the tricks, and the specialized experience/equipment.

    Plus you know so much about the problem that there is no way they can overcharge you. Just pay a half hour labor and parts from the junkyard.

    Maybe $75 and it would all be right as rain.
  • Midas does come to mind, however....cut what is bad or not mating properly and purchase a repair section. Slip it over the front exhaust pipe and mate to the new converter with U clamps, just like Midas would do. Its a dirty, frustrating job because you need to know the EXACT length and diameter pipe you need. You can buy bendable repair section depending on your state inspection requirements, if any. Advance or AZ may have a diagram with the data you need. Just my 2 cents.
  • Yep mine was doing that i just went to a transmission shop . It was a shaft in the transmission that served 2 purposes and it was binding up. Easy fix just bring to reputable tranny shop.

    Hope this helps :sick:
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,049
    edited October 2012
    When I first purchased my '99 GC in 2006 (with 98k), a check engine light would illuminate and I would "loose" 4th gear and 1st gear. Some kind of limp mode I guess.

    Anyway, I had purchased the extended warranty, knowing that the GC had a history of drivetrain ailments. I loved the truck and the dealer really hooked me up.

    For a $200 co-pay and 4 visits the mechanic; he finally found the real issue (he said there were almost 15 things that could have been the source of my truck's problem).

    So, Safford Dodge replaced everything short of a rebuild. The light went off, and I had no issues at all with the trans from then on. I did have to replace the 4 oxygen sensors in 2011 before I sold it :) , but other than that she was dead on reliable. Great Truck.
  • i have a 97 GC and just replaced both rear axles (worn), wheel bearings and seals all brand new, added the right fluid and additive! well it seems to be worse now if not the same ????? noice stays weather on the gas or not ? could i have bad new bearings ?? thanks
  • 1atony1atony Posts: 1
    You may also want to jack the back of the jeep up, secure it properly on jack stands and turn the rear wheel by hand to see if you can hear where the noise is coming from.

    For the heck of it, check the rear brakes to make sure they're not dragging and making noise. Hope this helps you out.

    Tony
  • When i take off from a stop, feels like back tires are lagging or not wanting to turn....
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