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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tommyjeep94tommyjeep94 Member Posts: 12
    my 95 Cherokee Sport L6 4.0L (83k mi) has developed a small oil leak from where the oil filter mount housing mates with the engine block. At first I thought the filter was loose; it was OK. Then I thought the pan gasket was the problem, so I replaced it. But now I can see the oil seep (drip....drip) from where the oil filter is connected to the block. It only seeps out with the engine running. But the oil runs down on the pan, starter, tranny, etc and makes a mess.

    I tried to remove the filter mount housing with a torx (star) T60 bit but it wouldn't budge. There must be another way to take it off. Any ideas would be helpful.
  • pfredrickspfredricks Member Posts: 1
    I had read a few times over about the resistor failiure causing the blower to fail. That is a very common problem apparently that Jeep has failed to acknowledge. First, I just want to blast Jeep for denying the problem. It is pretty obvious, the design is flawed. I had a toyota that had no problems, that Toyota recalled with 125,000 miles, fixed and gave me a free rental car. See the difference?????? Anyway, enough about Jeep not standing behind it's product. I had the same resistor failure in my Jeep. The reason that I am posting this message is that there are a few more tidbits of information that I discovered and would have found helpful.. My blower failed intermittently,( working somtimes not other times) at first, then would not shut off. What I discovered, in addition to the resistor burning up, the plug that inserts into the resistor had melted, and was smoking. It short circuited and was a very dangerous condition. It was actively smoldering when I discovered it and too hot to touch. Luckily, i had some gloves handy and was able to unplug it, although it had melted together. If your blower is working only sometimes, make this repair immediately to prevent having a Jeep bonfire. The other point is to say that you should inspect this plug very carefully. According to a Jeep salvager that I talked to.....If you are replacing the resistor, You will likely have to replace that plug. Both are available at the Jeep dealer. I paid 110 for the resistor and 35 for the plug. If you are even remotely mechanically inclined, replacing this yourself will save you about 300 bucks. It took me about 45min total. The resistor is the black box underneath the glove box, about the size of a pack of cards, and is held in place with two screws. It has two sets of wires. One set is the input plug, the other is the power output for the fan (black and red) The black and red wires appear to go into the dash into neverland. They thread up into the dash, then come back out and plug into the blower (which is also under the glovebox in plain sight) Save yourself alot of trouble and just snip the original wire and dont attempt to thread the new wire up into the dash. I was so busy trying to figure out where the wire went, i didnt see that it came right back out in plain sight ( a time saver for ya) Oh, and lastly, there are a couple types of Jeep resistors. One for automatic climate controls and one for manual. Get the right one.
    Well, that's all that I learned from fixing mine. I hope that saves you some time, trouble, and aggravation.
    Off to trade in my Jeep for a Toyota.
  • medic7603medic7603 Member Posts: 4
    I am having the problem with my 93 JGC Ltd not starting. It runs for 2-3 secs and then dies. I took it to a mechanic and he said it was the O2 sensor, replaced and it still dies on ignition. It has no rhyme or reason as to why it stalls and will take hours to days to be able to start it. Also while driving the security light will come on and stay on for an undetermined amount of time shutting itself off at random. I had the after market remote start/locks removed and the original reinstalled and it still does this. If anyone out there can give me a reason why it won't start, please let me know!!!
  • jeeproverjeeprover Member Posts: 17
    A possibility for a problem like this is the fuel system. Easiest and cheapest thing to do is replace the fuel filter, which could easily be clogged on a '93. Presumably it runs sometimes? Does is falter on uphills, but run okay down hill? Fuel filter. You can also run a can or two of fuel system cleaner through it. If that doesn't work, next thing to check would be the fuel pump. That would about do it for me, those steps have worked for me in the past, so if they don't work, the next stop would be the Jeep Dealer.
  • medic7603medic7603 Member Posts: 4
    The only thing that is wrong with it is that it won't start. Once I get it started, it runs just fine and will start up multiple times without incidence. Could it be not starting secondary to a spark plug or alternator problem as it runs for 2-3 seconds?
  • chefsambocakeschefsambocakes Member Posts: 1
    I had that exact problem on my 4.0L, the remedy was a repair kit from the dealership, the kit contained 2 O-Rings dont remember the Mopar Part number but i do remember it was fairly inexpensive. the hardest part is getting the Filter elbow off the block, to do it i had to order a 9/16 Allen wrench, u might be able to get a loaner from a local autozone if u have one near by, otherwise i know a parts store might sell one.
  • tommyjeep94tommyjeep94 Member Posts: 12
    Hey Chef, thank you for the tip. I tried to remove the filter elbow mount (a Torx T60 bit fits) but I was afraid if I applied too much torque, I would bust the filter elbow. How did you get your filter elbow off? Did you need a lot of torque?
  • pwestpwest Member Posts: 1
    Just a little information. I don't know if this is the problem or not but it's worth a try and real easy. Sometimes in these engines the PVC system gets clogged with oil (4.0). It makes the gaskets blow out all over. This may be why you need to replace them. I just had the same thing happen to my Jeep. We took the valve cover off and cleaned out the PVC system. Good as new. The leaking started with the same gasket at the elbow of the oil filter that you are talking about
  • gomes512gomes512 Member Posts: 1
    Have a '94 Grand Cherokee with the same motor and same problem. Like Chef said, get the kit and remove the elbow. I hosed down the whole elbow with penetrating oil to clean it off and to aid in easier removal. Since it was hard to remove and don't need anymore tools lying around, I used a bit that was held by a vise grip wrench and slipped a small segment of old copper pipe over the handle to extend it for better leverage. I figured if I could get it off myself I'd save myself a lot of $ and if I'd break it, then I'd pay the shop anyways. Sure enough it came off after a bit of struggling. (If it doesn't want to budge try tapping the handle lightly with a hammer to help unfreeze it.) Don't know of your motor is exactly the same (no PVC system here) but hope this helps. gl.
  • bob_grahambob_graham Member Posts: 63
    There was a TSB on this. Our 2001 GC Limited ate up brakes and rotors. DC came out with a kit to stop the warping. it works. We have not had a problem for some time. In fact the Jeep has 72,000 miles and I'm about to turn it back in to the leasing company after 5 years. You need to search the internet. Look at Alpar and also other jeep fourms and you'll find the TSB. DC paid to have my done. It was at about 38K miles and we have not had a problem since. No more warping.....

    You can tell the kit, the calipers are kind of a bright steel look.
  • medic7603medic7603 Member Posts: 4
    I just had a mechanic take a quick look at the JGC and he said the problem with it is definitely not a fuel filter or pump, but rather that the starter kill on the factory security system is working even when it's supposed to be off and killing my start. Anybody have any idea on how to disable the starter kill? I had a after market security system w/starter kill in there previously and the factory system was still killing the start. He said I just have to find someone who knows how to disable the starter kill and I'll be fine. please help
  • ricoconnorricoconnor Member Posts: 1
    I am losing coolant from a small pipe which I can see under the engine. The coolant only comes out when the engine is running. I'm losing about half a litre for every twenty miles I drive. Has anyone else experienced this problem and is it easy to rectify?
    My local dealer is quoting about sixty pounds sterling (approx 100 US Dollars) to replace the pipe plus two hours labour. Does this seem about right?!

    Great reading about all the topics, I really like the vehicle and hope this is just a small issue!
  • tommyjeep94tommyjeep94 Member Posts: 12
    Yo Gomes512, thanks for the reply. I'll get the kit. I was really applying some force with the Torx T60 wrench on that oil filter elbow (counter-clockwise) and it wasn't budging. I'll use the copper pipe trick for for leverage. Any other tips would help. Thanks.
  • paintsuckspaintsucks Member Posts: 2
    yes sir 93 white peeling like hell
  • paintsuckspaintsucks Member Posts: 2
    same fricken problem i ran it out of gas one time and have had constant problem '
    even when full of gas have u tried resetting computer it worked for me abunch but not anymore
  • tank50tank50 Member Posts: 2
    We are in the same boat. We have a 2000 JGC with 85k that the dealer is unable to fix. It will die at intersections, idle radically at higher than normal rpm an idle and then operate normally. We have spent $1000 so far without any improvements. :(
  • tank50tank50 Member Posts: 2
    We own a 2000 Grand Cherokee with 85k miles and the dealer is unable to figure out what is wrong. The problem(s) come and go as they please and run the gamut of high / eratic idle, stalling at intersections and downshifting prematurely when slowing down. The dealer has so far tuned it up and replaced a $535 pc board.
    Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
  • jeeproverjeeprover Member Posts: 17
    This refers to the NAG1 (W5A580) transmission as used in the 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee prior to June 2005 and TSB 21-011-05A TRANSMISSION - SHUDDER WHEN TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH ENGAGES.

    I took my Jeep to Fair Oaks Jeep in Chantilly, VA for its oil change and asked about the TSB. The service writer hadn't heard of it, but we looked it up. The service tech looked at my transmission and noted that the dipstick tube is in solidly, and that water from the a/c doesn't go near it. No further action required. Based on this anecdotal evidence, it appears the water-from-a/c-in-transmission problem isn't that common. Anyone with this problem can find the TSB and get the dealer to fix your Jeep accordingly.
  • dagoods25dagoods25 Member Posts: 13
    I just got my 05 back today after 7 days of repair...they replaced the torque converter, flushed the tranny fluid, and sealed the dipstick tube for foreign body materials...After driving it all day, it appears to run very smooth. I am holding my breath for know though. The dealership did supply my rental. GOOD luck to anybody who has the same problem.
  • mtelseymtelsey Member Posts: 10
    mine has been back since the 17 or 18 of august. and so far so good. still running fine, none of the other issues, and tranny fluid still clear. let us all keep our fingers crossed...
  • cemmingercemminger Member Posts: 1
    I have an 05 Grand Cherokee Laredo 2WD. I noticed a studdering between 4th and 5th gear during slow acceleration. I have also noticed a shuddering at times. I have had it back to the dealer 3 times before they diagnosed the studdering problem as a problem with the PCM (Power Control Module). They said it needed an upgrade. I got the upgrade but still notice the studdering. Also, the car shudders at times. I just had my oil changed today at Jiffy Lube and was told by the tech there is water in my transmission fluid, the fluid should be a red/cherry color but the color of my fluid is pink. He suggested I take it back to the dealer for warranty work. Water has found its way into my transmission fluid. Any answers???????
  • dagoods25dagoods25 Member Posts: 13
    check out some of the postings in this section. I, along with several others have had the same problem. I have an 05 limited and experienced the same thing. Have your dealership flush the tranny fluid and seal the area around the dipstick. Water from the AC condenser pools around that area and leaks in the fluid. This can cause the car to shut off, (mine did twice on the highway) Dont let them just replace the torque converter, the tranny needs to be looked at and sealed. My computer was also replaced. Good luck.
  • jeeplvjeeplv Member Posts: 1
    My 1995 Jeep GCL 2WD 6 cyl was rear-ended last week. It is just about to turn over 205,000 miles. Most of damage appears to be cosmetic, but expensive (about $2700) consisting of some body work and new bumper. Insurance is trying to total it. Today, it made a "screeching" noise when shifting into reverse or neutral. When I put the car in park, the engine will not shut off. To shut off engine, I have to put car in reverse or neutral or between reverse and park. I had to use emergency brake and I disconnected the battery just in case and to get the key out of the ignition.

    Any ideas? Is the tranny fried?
  • kirkwillkirkwill Member Posts: 2
    The hook that holds on one side of my sunroof deflector broke off and I can't seem to find anyway of getting this part to fix it, the dealer said that you have to order the whole frame. Anyone got any info?
  • rickrettrickrett Member Posts: 2
    Good question... Wish I had an answer. Does anyone know how to pull the cables from the antenna? I have no idea what to look for in that mess of wires under the passenger dash.

    The bolts holding on the antenna can be reached by pulling back the plastic dirt guard from the passenger fender. You don't really need to take it all the way off; just pop a few of the plastic plug nut thingys and pull back the plastic enough to reach.

    I'm probably going to take off the fender just so I can see what I'm doing, although that will be the last resort (I'm almost at that point though). :cry:
  • searaymosearaymo Member Posts: 6
    Are there any horror stories about the cost of having a Timing chain&tensioner replaced at a dealer or non dealer. I just received a repair quote from KOONS of Tysons Corner in the amount of $2,600.00 out of the door repair bill to do this job.
    My question is, has anyone ever had this done and is that a fair bill?

    Thanks
    SeaRayMo
  • pek1442pek1442 Member Posts: 3
    Has anyone else noticed a high pitch squealing sound if the A/C is set on level 2 or higher when on the highway (70+ MPH)? I have been putting up with it for about a month and the dealer was unable to reproduce it today when it was in for an oil change. I also noticed a tug/jerk/lurch issue when slowing down and they informed me they flushed the TCM. I've noticed a few discussions about transmission issues, but is the A/C just another part of that, thus since it has been flushed the issue should be resolved? Thanks!
  • adamradamr Member Posts: 1
    Right now my jeep overland (25k) is having random issues accelerating. The problem is very random and started recently; for instance when slowing down, and then speeding up right away, it seems like the engine is jumping to catch up. Also at low speeds, when accelerating, the engine will miss and there will be a shudder, then the engine continues to accelerate after that.

    I have had the jeep in a couple times, one dealer said there was nothing wrong, and the other said there was a software problem. Can anyone give me some advice on what to tell the dealers to look for?
  • jeeproverjeeprover Member Posts: 17
    The 2005 Jeep GC with NAG1 (W5A580) transmission has a problem with water infiltration around the dipstick tube hole. Several people have written about this -- it may be detected when you see water in the trans fluid (white or strawberry froth instead of clear red) or when you notice a "shuddering" while shifting, esp. between 3d and 4th gears. In its worse case, if the trans fails, the vehicle may revert to "limp home" mode and only operate in 1st gear. This affects all 3.7 engined vehicles with this transmisison built before June 3, 2005. TSB Nr. 21-011-05A shows how the Dealer is supposed to fix this - it involves draining/purging the transmission and putting a sealant around the point that leaks water into the trans, as dagoods25 and mtesley have had done...

    See http://www.wkjeeps.com/tsb/tsb_2101105A.pdf for a copy of the TSB.

    Bottom line here is -- this appears to be what you have -- it can be fixed, it may take some time, but the dealer can do it -- show them the TSB! Good luck -- report back how it works out!
  • blkhemiblkhemi Member Posts: 1,717
    Hi Guys! I've got a 2001 jgc with the 4.0L 2wd with about 91,500 mailes on it. The truck has been extremely good to me from the time of purchase up until now. Two things have happened and I am trying to get some clarification on these problems.

    First Thing: Here recently, I've noticed a high pitched howling sound any time I get above 70 mph. It's been a silent hum but has started to get worse. I'm not sure if its the rear diff or the bearings.

    Second thing ( the big one): The other day I was at the fuel station and I was topping off my tank as I was worried about fuel shortages ( after Hurricane Katrina rolled through, gas shot up 3.65 a gallon here in Memphis). Then it happened. GAS STARTED TO LEAK OUT FROM AROUND THE TANK AREA. Scared the living daylights out of me. I did not here the fuel filler click to let me know it was full. So the fuel kept leaking out so decided to drive the truck anyway and as I got to my destination, it stopped. But every since then, every time fill up, I can smell gas. Also the malfunction indicator light (check engine) came on while driving, got home shut the vehicle off turned it back on and it went off.

    I'm at a lost on these problems. Any imput would be greatfully appreciated.
    THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FELLOW JEEPERS.
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    You most likely have a leaking fuel pump O ring. I had to replace mine. It's not the simplest thing so if you're not mechanically inclined, I'd take it to a garage.
    Make sure they do an excellent job of cleaning out all of the dirt and mud in that area or you'll be doing it again.

    The MIL is most likely related to the O ring issue.
  • blkhemiblkhemi Member Posts: 1,717
    Thanks paule. I do have one question. Is the fuel pump on the inside or outside of the tank? And also is the o-ring on the actual pump or located someplace else? ( i know this sounds dumb, but I'm not the most mechanically inclined person in the world.
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    The fuel pump is inside the tank. Basically you have a round opening in the top of your tank and the fuel delivery module (fuel pump, float, etc.) sits in this opening and is submerged in the fuel. There is a rubber O ring that seals the FDM to the plastic opening of the tank.
    So the O ring sits in a groove and the FDM seals against it.
    I'm not 100% sure of the configuration on a 2001 but it will be very similar to how I described it.
    You will know that it is the O ring if the puddle of gas is centered with the fuel tank.
    If it is off to one side, it may be your filler hose instead.
    One other comment. It is possible you could have a loose connection between the FDM and the fuel supply line but I doubt that is the cause since you mentioned it happens after you refuel.
  • blkhemiblkhemi Member Posts: 1,717
    Thanks once again paule!
  • markindemarkinde Member Posts: 1
    Last week my car alarm went off. Horn honking and lights flashing. I tried to switch it off by remote but the remote didn't work. After 90 seconds the horn stopped blaring but the lights kept flashing for some time after. Since then it won't start. Actually it will start. It'll turn over for about a second and then it will cut off. I've tried locking and unlocking doors. Also i've disconnected the battery overnight. However i can't get it to start. Can anyone tell me what is wrong and what needs to be done? Can I bypass the disable?
  • raywi1raywi1 Member Posts: 4
    I had a similar problem and after the dealer "fixed it" and it still stalled I discovered the wire coming from the ignition coil was loose at the connector junction. I could manipulate this connector and cause the engine to stall. The connector will come apart so I disassembled and reassembled it and then taped the two connectors together to prevent bouncing.
  • opahopah Member Posts: 1
    when starting will idle rough for about 2min into running last about 30secs and go back to normal. when driving for the first two minutes car will lose power and if you punch the gas it backfire several times and will go back to driving normal. it won't happen again until you restart the car. took it to garage no one seems to know what the problem is??? does anyone know??????
  • spuruckspuruck Member Posts: 1
    The rear hatch on my 1999 Grand Cherokee will not open. All other doors can lock & unlock with the power lock control but the rear lock gives a grinding noise and there is no way to get it open. How do you get access to the locking/control mechanism that controls the rear door? What's the name of the control device for the door lock so I can search for a new one?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I had some door actuators act up on me for a while; I suspect yours is called a liftgate lock actuator or similar.

    Opah, check out the Idle or Stalling Problems - All Vehicles discussion while waiting for responses in here.

    Steve, Host
  • jcd04jcd04 Member Posts: 2
    Sorry for the long reply. I also switched off the auto headlights to avoid the lights coming on inadvertantly. Last week I had to take my Jeep to the dealer (I bought an extended warranty) because the water pump was leaking, and I asked them to also look at the headlight problem. Unfortunately, I don't understand the dealer's receipt very well but they ran some diagnostic test and discovered a bad sensor. I might be able to glean some other info about the sensor from the receipt if you need it. It seems to have fixed the headlight problem.

    Good luck.
  • keni76keni76 Member Posts: 3
    I'm going to answer my own post again. The transmission fluid change made it work for about a week and then it started happening again. Always pulling into 2nd gear and skipping 1st. So after I paid off the last round of repairs I took it to the Jeep dealer and they replaced the Governor Pressure Sensor for about $325 with tax. Obnoxious part was they also had to change the tranny fluid to do this, so I've had it changed and paid for it twice in 6 weeks. UGH. However the problem does seem to be fixed and now my gas mileage is back up to 17 mpg instead of the 13.5 it had dropped to.

    Hope this helps someone else out.
  • mepjeepmepjeep Member Posts: 1
    I've got around 80,000 miles on my 2001 Grand Cherokee and started having what I ASSUME are transmission problems. The problem started intermittently and is getting more frequent. Problem: From a dead stop I'll step on the gas and the engine rev's up but I start moving slowly. It's as if I were starting off in 3rd or 4th gear. Once I get rolling performance slowly returns to normal (at speed) which seems consistent with starting off (then staying) in high gear. When I slow to a stop the transmission seems to shift badly. It might downshift a couple times when almost stopped, causing the Jeep to lurch. I know a mechanic who said he heard of a Jeep recall for this problem. Is he right? Any suggestions? Thanks.
  • duffsterduffster Member Posts: 1
    OK. so I should have looked here before I sold my 94 Cherokee with 196000 miles and bought a 2003 JGC Laredo. I've hit the dreaded Brake Rotor Replacement Point at 31000 miles and I need some decision support. Are The Stilen Rotors that seem to be the best fix warrantied?
  • mnatmnat Member Posts: 1
    Same problem on my 2000 GC 4.7 V8. VERY high idle on start-up and erratic afterwards. Also stalling at stop lights (seems worse when on hills?). So far have had the following replaced:

    Idle Air Controller Motor (IAC)
    Fuel Pump
    Coolant Sensor
    Oxygen Sensor
    Reprogrammed Computer

    Problem still persists! Still searching for the magic bullet. :lemon:
  • aurora141gaurora141g Member Posts: 4
    I haven't had the same problem with my jeep yet (hopefully won't), but I did have the exact same thing happening on a civic. Mechanics wanted to replace the fuel pump. I decided to start small and replace the fuel filter myself and the problem was solved. Not sure, but it's an idea.
  • aurora141gaurora141g Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 jgc limited. A few days ago i noticed a high pitch while i accelerated, and the radio and lights seemed to have some trouble working. Since then power locks/remote entry stopped working and the vehicle now won't start. I've even tried jumping it but no luck. If anyone has an idea what this could be please let me know. Thanks.
  • evan34evan34 Member Posts: 5
    I am having the same problem. I thought it was just me, but I guess I am not alone. It is a high-pitch naise but I get it when I hit like 50 mph, but not all the time. I had my transmission reprogrammed and it made a world of difference.
  • ctidctid Member Posts: 1
    It started out as just a random beep that I would hear every once in a while, but now my dash (i believe) is emitting a constant ringing noise that starts and ends in a very staticy manner for periods up to five minutes long. As you can imagine, it's quite difficult to do anything with a loud ringing noise for minutes at a time. Any suggestions of things to check or any ideas at all of what would cause this would be appreciated.
    Thanks.
  • wsu0702wsu0702 Member Posts: 1
    In addition to the brake rotors, window regulators, auto headlight switch, popping steering wheel, leaky tranfer case and worn out hood struts I can now add the following power mirror problem:

    -Mirrors do not stay adjusted. When door is closed (not slammed , just closed) mirror move out of adjustment and have to be set ever time I drive car.

    Anyone else have this problem?
  • blue_racer34blue_racer34 Member Posts: 4
    I had to re-do once, but repair has held up ever since. Somehow debris got into the system, and plugged the condensation and water discharge port a second time. It was particularly puzzling since I have added additional filtration in front of the fresh air intake for this system.
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