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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • benoitbenoit Posts: 2
    thank you !
  • fishgafishga Posts: 1
    I don't know if this works on the Grand Cherokee, but it works on Cherokees:
    Just give it a good pull - straight up. Took me a long time to figure this out!
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    That is correct. According to my repair manual "Grasp the handle and pull up sharply to remove the handle from the lever".
    Should have read the book before giving inaccurate information earlier.........
  • My Jeep cherokee 1996 is not doing well in the heat. The water light comes on when its over 80 degrees out or I ran my air or drove for a while in the heat. I have had my thermostat and my radiator checked and they seem fine. As soon as this happens I run my heat and it cools a bit. I heard through the grape vine that some jeeps are made with a small fan that does not cool off the car and needs a special kit installed for this. Please help, it will be 90 degrees soon and need to fix it. Thanks
  • Just wanted to say that I found out the only thing wrong with my Jeep was it needed a new crank shaft sensor. I really learned alot in this forum and knew what to ask the mechanic to check for. So I didn't have to use mechanic 1, who wanted to replace the computer or mechanic 2, who was 100% that it would not start by simply replacing the crank shaft sensor. I found a good mechanic who thinks I might know what I am talking about by the questions I asked. Thanks much.
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    Excellent! I'm glad we were able to help on this.
    Having a little information goes a long way when dealing with some mechanics.
  • reddog4reddog4 Posts: 2
    I had a similar problem with my '95 GC. The positive battery cable connection had corroded (turned black) at the battery post. I replaced it with an aftermarket terminal. I still run my '95 and have had to replace the terminal periodically.
  • Hi Gallagher05, I also purchased a 2003 Jeep Liberty and it has been in the shop 7 times for rear brake noise, warped rotors, leaking axel, and a clunking noise when hitting the brakes backing up. I am experiencing what you went through. I have contacted a lawyer and starting the lemon law process. So far their response has been "no" since the problem is not life threatening so to speak. I am saddened because I really thought when I bought the Jeep Liberty that this would be the vehicle for the next ten years. I am scared what it will cost me once the warranty is up. I am considering filing a complaint as well with BBB and the State Attorney General. If we had a collective voice of Jeep Owners who have been treated this way, do you think it is possible to contact a radio or television venue like "7 on your side"? :lemon:
  • dmarkdmark Posts: 1
    I recently had similar problems with my 99 Laredo I 6 with occasional no start (nothing) but sometimes with flashing on and off ABS warning light and dancing gauges (even after the ignition was turned off). The connections and terminals seemed tight and clean so I took it to a mechanic (not from the dealership) who said there were no error messages about the brakes on the computer and that my 1 yr. battery was bad and unable to hold a charge. Then the battery dealership claimed the battery was fine but found a loose terminal connection. Apparently some one had over tightened the set screw for the battery connection and stripped it enough to have partial contact. Battery Guy then ground the terminal down slightly to allow the set screw to catch and have had no problems since (2 weeks now). So it appears that the charge to my Jeep was fine sometimes and allowed it to start or was compromised enough to confuse my sensors/computer or bad enough to keep it from even turning over because of a slightly loosened connection. Hope this helps.
    BTW I just want to mention that this is our first Jeep and has over 87,000 miles and we love it. We live in Northern Indiana with lots of ice and snow in the winter and has also been great for long trips to Miami during the holidays.
  • I was amazed to find the exact thing happen to my 95 JGC Laredo. I have 155k on it and it never gave me a bit of problem. Yesterday morning I went to start it and I found it does not have any spark. I called a few local dealerships and they of course tell me to bring it in so they can hook it up the the computer for diagnosis. I am curious to see what they found your problem was found to be as mine is more then likely the same thing. :confuse:
  • ruppyruppy Posts: 1
    I have a 95 GC Laredo with only 88,000 miles. Recently the Vehicle Information Center has started resetting itself (Like the Battery was disconnected), the power windows work intermittently and the security alarm system sets itself when the vehicle is turned off. I'm guessing that it is the PCM but am looking for other ideas before I spent $450 on one. Anyone out there with similar problems? Also, would a electronic diagnostic tester work for pinpointing this problem if it did have a bad PCM? Thanks
  • steve35steve35 Posts: 6
    It's likely that the heat from the rotor has rusted the rotor to the hub. There is no trick tool, just patience, a few careful raps from a well directed hammer and some WD - 40.Keep working on them, they'll come off.

    As for warping rotors, like so many cars these days, the rotors warp due to the calipers freezing to the slide pins. There seems to not be enough clearance in the pin holes and that's probably due to the caliper being improperly annealed during manufacture.Annealing during manufacture is supposed to reduce or eliminate heat - induced distortion in use.

    That is, as the caliper heats and cools during braking, stresses are introduced that distort the caliper just enough to keep it from following the rotor properly. The machined slide pin holes in the caliper cease to be straight as the heat stresses (distortions) build up. The rotor seizes to the slide pins causing the brake pads to stay in contact with the rotors, even after pedal presuure is released. The rotor stays hotter longer and over time the extra heat causes it to warp. If this does not seem plausible, ask an engine rebuilder if he has ever line bored the crank and cam journals on an engine block. Large pieces of machined cast iron CAN distort, if regularly heated(overheated) and cooled.

    I found that the rotors on my Jeep warped very quickly as well. Getting one rotor off was difficult so I used a hammer and a few carefully placed raps to dislodge it. I replaced the rotor, of course.

    Then on all four calipers I de burred the slide pin holes using a drill and a properly sized bit. I don't recall the size of the bit because I did the work 70,000 miles ago. That's right...the pads and rotors have lasted 70k miles! The right rotor has warped just a bit again but I will fix that soon when I do the next brake job. I was a bit more aggressive on re - machining the the left caliper slide pins holes and that's why that rotor hasn't warped.

    When you re assemble, be generous with the anti seize compound on the slide pins. Re lube every 5 -10 k miles.

    If you go for the real "fix" as recommended by Chrysler, replace the OEM calipers with the recommended Akebono calipers. The Akebono calipers don't seem to cause as much rotor warping. They are noted in a Techical Service Bulletin that every Jeep dealer should have in its records. This is not a recall item, even though it probably should be. At $125 per caliper plus installation, I took the re - machining route.

    If your are a bit faint of heart or if your idea of heavy work on the vehicle is checking the oil, have a good garage replace the calipers for you.
  • nicklnickl Posts: 1
    Hi Lee.....can you tell me where the outlet wiring is in an 02 gcl......My problem is, going up a hill it feels like it is not getting gas....I pull over and trun it off and restart it and it will run OK....I did replace the plugs but not the coil pack....or is this the fuel pump....Let me know please....thank you....Nick
    caneswin5@echoes.net :sick:
  • 95chkjpltd95chkjpltd Posts: 1
    Hi, I have an issue with my 95 grand cherokee limited (v8, 5.2l). It only started recently, about a week or so ago. If it's been sitting for awhile, 6+hours, i have problem starting it up. It cranks for 8 seconds and i let it go, fear of draining the battery. I do this for couple times and it starts right up on the third try and it starts immediately subsequent times afterwards all day. I can hear the hum coming from the back when I put the car on start. The spark plugs look good and one mechanic I went to didn't seem to know what might be causing the problem unless they encountered the problem himself. But I can't leave the car with them for that long, since it is the only car I have.
    So anyone have any idea what might be causing the problem? Could it be the fuel pump? I've been seeing a lot of posts about CPS being the cause, could that be it in my case as well or maybe the coil? I just told them to replace the fuel filter for now. So if anyone can help me out, any help will be greatly appreciated.
  • jeep95jeep95 Posts: 1
    I have same problem on my jeep grand cherokee 95 since a month, I think the problem came from Daytime Running Light Module, but I don't know where located, the little blue light in my dash turn on all the time, I have to remove the fuse 30amp to turn off all lighting system when the car is park.
    Some body know where located that module , please help.

    Thank you
  • jeep4everjeep4ever Posts: 5
    This sounds like a bad catalytic converter. Happened to me too.
    -Lee
  • donealdoneal Posts: 1
    There is an unannounced recall on it, take your '05 JGC to your friendly neighborhood Jeep dealership and they will flash the prom. They did mine on the 3K service.
  • lfjklfjk Posts: 1
    My son purchased a 97 JGC v-6 auto from a private party. He said that the engine light was on, went to the dealer, told that the codes came up, "misfire / crankcase positioning sensor." :cry: He did the work himself, cap, rotor, plugs(champion as suggested) and wires. He also replaced the sensor. Said that we just needed to take it to the dealer and reset the codes. we did ..on the way home the light came on again. My mechanic put in a second, new sensor, cleared the codes, the light came back on. 3 hrs worth of diagnostics and the dealer still doesn't know what's wrong. He thought it was a cracked flywheel, but upon inspection, said that the flywheel was brand new. (Old owner had $2300. worth of tranny work at Ammco). Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank-you. larry
  • cgivenscgivens Posts: 5
    I have recently acquired a 1996 JGC and have the identical problem with the A/C draining into the car. The A/C shops and the dealer have the same story about removing the evaporater and BIG $$. I assume that this remedy will work on a 96 as well as a 95. Anyone thinks differently? Any other advice?
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    I can't find the original message you replied to but looking in my service manual there should be a drain hose coming out of the firewall on the passenger side of the vehicle right by the starter (just above and to the left).
    Take a piece of wire and run it up the hose to make sure it isn't blocked. If it is, that will cause water leakage inside the vehicle.
  • coop1coop1 Posts: 1
    We have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee. About 6 months ago we took it to a Jeep dealer in San Raphael, California who told us the rear differential needed to be fixed - they charged $2500. Now 6 months later, there's a problem with the front of the car, we took it back in and they said it's the front differential and will cost $3000 to fix. This seems ridiculous. They originally said they couldn't figure exactly what was wrong until they "opened up" that area which would probably cost about $900 in manual labor. The original estimate was if we let them open-up the car it should run about $1400 - $2000 total (including $900 diagnosing) to fix the differential. Then they came back with $3000. Are these guys completely ripping us off?? If we go through with the work, we will have put $5500 in work into this Jeep in the past 6 months - probably half of what the car is worth. Not sure what other options we have now that they've already "opened up" the car for $900.
  • cgivenscgivens Posts: 5
    The original message is #244 from wkilgore. The drain on my 96 model is not visible from the engine compartment (at least not to me). According to wkilgore the hose exits inside the box beam underneath on the 95 model. I need to be certain where it is before I drill or cut the firewall to find it.
  • mstoverinkmstoverink Posts: 22
    Is there anyone that would be able to email me a picture or direct me to a picture on the web that shows where this hose is at on/through the firewall. I just bought a 97 JGC and have this problem but cannot find this hose. Please help. My email is mstoverink@hotmail.com. Thanks in advance.
  • cgivenscgivens Posts: 5
    I also could use a picture that shows the location of the air conditioner drain hose on the 1996 JGC. A/C mechanics tell me that it runs between the firewall into a box beam under the car. A Jeep dealer told me that some models do not have a drain hose. Do not know who to believe. They all want $700 to $900 to find it for me. Anybody has a diagram? Please email it to me atd ccgivens2027@verizon.net
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,010
    If someone does have a diagram, it would be nice if they could post it using the pic posting instructions in the Forums Help link to the left. Then everyone with this issue could find it here in the future with a discussion search, and there would be fewer email addresses posted for the spam harvesters to find.

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    Sorry guys. I'm just going from my repair manual book and it covers '93 through '00 so it may be a '99-00 model that they're showing.

    Come to think of it I will see water draining out of my passenger side framerail when I run the air conditioner so it's quite possible it does exit into the framerail.

    Let me take a look tomorrow (too dark tonight) and I'll see if I can spot it using the repair manual as a reference.
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    Yes, they're ripping you off.

    I had all of the bearings (rear differential and axle) replaced for $850. They cut me a little bit of a deal since the company I work for buys Chrysler parts but not a $2000 deal!

    I'd either shop around or find an independent dealer. By the way, what is your complaint that caused you to bring it in in the first place?
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    The drain hose is to the outside of the framerail about 5" behind the shock absorber on the passenger side.

    Look in to your front wheelwell and you will see a hose that is about 10" long or so. If you can't see a hose right behind your shock, it's possible the hose came off which would explain the water dripping into the vehicle.

    The hose does NOT exit into the framerail as I posted earlier. It is outside the framerail. My vehicle is a '98 but I would think anything in the '93-'98 range would be the same.
  • mstoverinkmstoverink Posts: 22
    Hey thanks for the info. Is there any way you could post a picture or send one to my email (mstoverink@hotmail.com). Either way, thanks a lot.
  • glynisglynis Posts: 2
    I can't believe that as soon as I log on I find your message. I have been having the same problem. My jeep is an 88. It ran good for a year and the last 2 months it just stops running while I am doing 80. Sometimes when I am sitting at a stop light. My husband has tried figuring this out but can't.

    If I pump on the gas pedal while it is shutting down, I can get it going again, but not always. The battery is fine.

    Does anyone know why my car does this?

    Glynis
    glynisan@rogers.com :confuse:
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