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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • glynisglynis Posts: 2
    This has been happening to my car as well. My husband thinks that it has to do with the fuel pump. He has been looking at the manual and now he says that this has something to do with the pressure.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    It is unwise to include your e-mail address in a posting. Edmunds.com is not immune from the spambots that harvest email addresses. It is better to make your address visible in your user profile if you wish to grant other members the ability to contact you.

    tidester, host
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    Let's see if this works. It works on my computer but let me know if you can see it.
    This is a picture looking into the right front wheelwell. The hose sticking down behind the shock absorber is the drain hose.
    Vehicle is a '98 GC Laredo.

    image
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    The fuel pump is directly related to the fuel pressure.

    Assuming the battery is fine, I would look at the fuel pump.

    Depending on how mechanically inclined you are, you can hook up a pressure gauge in line with the fuel line to see if you have adequate pressure. Fuel pressure for a '95 should be 37 to 41 psi at idle.

    On '95 and up models there is a test port on the fuel line that has a "tire valve" cap covering it. Attach the gauge to this port and record the value.

    The fuel pressure regulator on '95 and '96 models is part of the fuel pump module so you will have to replace the entire fuel pump module to fix it which requires dropping the fuel tank.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    Fortunately, we cannot read files directly off your pc! Click on the "Forums Help" link in the left column of this page near the top to learn how to post pictures here. Basically, you need to find a host for your picture (your ISP may provide storage) then link to it in your message.

    tidester, host
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    That's what I thought would happen.

    I checked out the forums help and it basically says you have to link to a web address. I don't have the ability to do that so it looks like we're out of luck.

    It shouldn't be that big of a deal. Just look in the right front wheelwell and you should see the hose a little bit behind the shock.
  • gallagher05gallagher05 Posts: 15
    Hi nine76lori,
    Sorry it took me so long to respond. I too have a lawyer and I am currently sueing D/Chrysler... it's in arbitration right now, and could be there for quite some time, but I am not going away. They (the firm) feel I have a strong case. I didnt pay for a "used vehichle," which I have had better used cars w/out all the probs than I have had with my once new JGC. I contacted the BBB, and all they do is put your complaint on file along w/sending a copy to Daimler and the dealership. If you have a lawyer, then you can not utilize the Att. Generals Office. If a law firm feels you have a valid claim RE: the lemon law in your state, they will take your case pro bono, because they are fairly certain they can win something for you. Make sure you have copies of all your invoices, original purchase agreement w/warrenty etc... they will need all of that. It is a pain, but if D/C has to finally take true responsibilty its worth it. I would love to just trade this in right now, and be done w/it, but I wont because of the priciple of the matter. I will go all the way to court if they do not settle out of court with me. And, believe me I tried to get Daimler to work with me on at least 5 different occassions prior to filing suit, this was something I was trying to avoid. I read somewhere that dateline or one of the NBC news shows looks for stories RE: bad experiences with a manufacturer. Let me know if you contact a news media source.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,942
    I think you mean take the case on some sort of contingency basis; pro bono would mean the lawyers would waive any fees.

    Paule, if you want to email the pic to me, I can try to post it for you. My email is in my Profile (click the name to get to someone's Profile).

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • nukemenukeme Posts: 1
    I had problems with my 2000 GCL that sounds almost like your problems, it would hesitate going into gear and "clunk" sometimes. Believe it or not it was a simple fix. I changed the brakes. The brakes disengage the automatic trans. and when they are worn to down, it doesn't disengage properly. If someone would have to me this at the time I would have said they were crazy. I changed the brakes and the jeep shifts fine now. Give it a try brakes are cheaper than a new trans. Hope this helps.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,942
    We're testing some photo upload features, so this is a good chance to try it with Paule's drain hose pics:

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • I'm one in the club of those suffering from fuel problems. I have a '96 JGC which ran great up until 2 years ago. One summer day the car acted as if it was out of gas; sputtering and choking. This went on for a couple of blocks and then cleared up. I had no problems again for almost a year.

    The next summer I had the same symptoms, but this time while driving down the freeway. Again, the problem cleared itself up after just a few minutes. About a month later the problem happened again. Thinking it was a fuel issue, I added fuel injection cleaner and switched to a higher grade of fuel. Another month or so later, same problem.

    I got in the habit of putting in the additive every 5 or 10 fill-ups and continued with mid- or premium gas (ouch!). I had no further problems and once winter hit I figured I was okay, since the problem had happened only on hot days prior. Even so, I kept up with my new fuel routine, as I didn't want to have a problem out in the boondocks some late night.

    Well I was wrong about not needing to worry until summer -- the problem came back on a cool day about a month ago, and then again yesterday.

    Up until yesterday I still thought I was dealing with a fuel filter or fuel injection problem. Here's the thing though: I put the car in neutral and the sputtering and choking stopped immediately. I was able to rev the engine with the rpms increasing and decreasing smoothly and steadily. When I put the car back into drive, it again (immediately) started acting like it was out of gas. Back into neutral and all was fine (except I couldn't "go") -- into drive and it sputtered. After a few blocks of limping along, it did what it normally does, and went away as mysteriously as it had come.

    I can't afford to have a mechanic try the "hit-and-miss" method of repair, so I'd appreciate any input from someone who has experienced the same problem and successfully had it repaired. My take is that running the diagnostic turns up nothing, and unless the problem happens while you've got your car under the mechanic's nose, he can't really be sure he knows what it is (and sometimes even with it under his nose he's not sure).

    * car acts like it's running out of gas; sputters, chokes and has almost no power
    * it happens on the freeway and in regular "street" conditions
    * it happens when in hot and in cold weather
    * the problem is intermittent -- maybe every 1 to 3 months or so
    * the problem starts out of nowhere, and with no warning
    * the problem goes away after a few miles (but worries the heck out of me that I'll get hit or stranded!)
    *** the problem stops as soon as the car is put into neutral, but returns immediately if put back into drive***, which to me rules out a fuel, electrical, or coil problem

    THANKS, IN ADVANCE, TO ANYONE WHO CAN SOLVE THIS MYSTERY (and save me a few hundred $$ in "guess" repairs)!!!!!
    :confuse:
  • mrspowe1mrspowe1 Posts: 1
    I AM HAVING WHAT I THOUGHT WAS A SMALL PROBLEM INSTEAD IT TURNED OUT TO BE A BIG ONE. MY GRAND CHEROKEE IS GETTIN' A LOT OF RAIN IN IT, AND I DIDN'T THINK TO MUCH OF IT AT FIRST UNTIL I SAW THE EFFECT IT CAUSED ON MY MAIN WINDOW SWITCH. MY PASSAGER WINDOW WILL NOT COME DOWN BECAUSE OF THE RAIN GETTING ON THE DRIVE SIDE DOOR SWITCH. MY BACK WINDOW IS ACTTING UP AS WELL AND THERE HAS BEEN RAIN GETTING IN THE BACK WHICH HAS CAUSE MILDEW TO STARTED GROWIN IN THE BACK. THE SMELL IS VERY NASTY AND I CAN NOT TAKE IT ANY LONGER I GET RAINED ON WHEN IT IS VERY BAD WEATHER I AM ASKING EVERYONE WHO IS HAVING PROBLEMS TO WRITE OR CALL TO BETTER BUREAU BUSINESS A.S.A.P PLEASE THE NUMBER IS 1-800-987-8280 THE E-MAIL ADDRESS IS WWW.MISSISSIPPI.BBB.ORG IF YOU DO NOT LIVE IN MS CALL THAT NUMBER MAYBE THEN WE CAN GET SOME HELP INSTEAD OF HAVING TO COME OUT OUR POCKETS THEY WILL DO A RECALL IF ENOUGH PEOPLE ARE FILING A COMPLAINT. :sick: :cry:
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    First, take a deep breath.

    Second, turn off the CAPS LOCK on your keyboard. People tend to ignore postings written in all CAPS.

    And, third, rather than starting off with the nuke option you might consider ASKING whether anyone else has had the problem and what remedies there might be for it.

    Also, please avoid posting email addresses and phone numbers as we don't have time to verify all of them.

    Thanks.

    tidester, host
  • guitarmikeguitarmike Posts: 1
    I have a 96 JGC lmt and the moon roof will not go forward without me pushing it up. It goes back just fine but seems to get stuck going forward. I have put silicone grease on the tracks and the seals but to no avail. Any ideas?
  • tjhildebtjhildeb Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Grand cherokee laredo, my low coolent light comes on and I fill the overflow tank. The Radiator has coolent in it. It's not over heating but the water is leaking out and the coolent light comes back on. I see water under the front leaking right behind the radiator. The overflow tank does not have a hole in it.I have 76,000 miles and purchased the jeep last year so don't know what has been done in the past. When I'm driving I sometimes here water under the pasagner side of the engine. Is it the water pump?
  • bm15bm15 Posts: 1
    Hi there. I have not had time to read all the messages but at one point or another I have experienced very similar issues to the ones listed below. By no means am I an expert or even close to an expert on car maintenance. Now with that said I need some advice. Yesterday when I was driving around in the city my 99' Grand Cherokee Laredo started having problems shifting gears. I had to almost manually do it with my foot on the gas pedal. The rpm's rev up to 2000-3000 just to go from 20-30 mph..At one point I could not get the car to get above 40mph..Had 10 cars behine me..I've just spent 2500 on the car in the last 2 months..Have 95k miles on it.. Please tell me its not needing a new transmission..I had the oil and all the fluids topped off hoping the problem would be corrected but it is still causing me problems. Can anyone advise me on what I should do and what kind of costs/repairs I am looking at?? Thanks
  • greasegrease Posts: 1
    I had my JGCL for three months (3000 miles) when the transmission fell apart, they said the torque converter was in pieces. Soon after 7,000 miles, the transmission would shift real rough (jerking from gear to gear), it went in for another operation at the dealer. Now I can only start the vehicle 50% of the time in park, as for the other 50%, I have to put it in neutral. It's schedule for another dealer trip! I've only own Wranglers before, this is my first and last Jeep purchase. American Quality? - I'm even live in the suburbs of Detroit!
    Anyone else have the same problems with the transmission?
  • scarngscarng Posts: 1
    I have a '93 GC Laredo that the VIC is resetting itself as well. I wish I new what was causing it.

    Also, does ayone know what it means on the VIC when all four wheels are lighted?

    Is the Data Link Connector (DLC) ODB or ODBII? I want to use my palm pilot to collect the codes?

    Also, I have replace the 4WD Switch but the damn message still comes up on the VIC "Services 4WD Switch" any clues?
  • kd922kd922 Posts: 1
    I had the exact same issues as you. My 99 GCL would simply loose engine power in the middle of driving, didn't matter if I was stopped, or going 80 on the highway. It would always restart once I turned the truck off. About 4 months after, it began having trouble restarting. Wasn't the fuel pump, it was certain sensors that needed to be replaced. One was a speed sensor, then a cam sensor and something else. As for the guy with the problem about it only starts in park 50% of the time, most likely your shift cable is loose (that happened to me right after I got it back from the shop for the cutting off issue).

    My front differential is bad as well, and all of these posts have me now thinking about taking legal action.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 843
    This sounds as if your water pump is going out. Our '00 Laredo did the same thing. First time the low coolent light came on, I added some coolent. Couple of days later the wife said the light was back on. Looked and now the coolent was dripping out the water pump weep hole. Took it to the dealer the next morning and they replaced it under Extended Warranty (factory Max Care) for the $50 deductible. I think the total was listed as between $400 & $500 on the repair ticket.

    What happens with the water pump in this case is the shaft seal goes out and the coolent escapes around the shaft and drips out the weep hole. Some vehicles you can actually see the hole, but IIFC you would have to get under the Jeep and maybe remove one of the splash shields to see it.

    You might be able to replace it yourself or get a shop other than the dealer to repair it for less. You might want to call a parts retailer and get an idea how much the water pump is (new and rebuilt) so you will have an idea if you are getting ripped when you get quotes.

    Bill
  • andy17andy17 Posts: 2
    I bought this new car 4 months ago and current mileage is 6500. Everything was good till 1 month ago, when the hesitation problem was noticed. Just shortly after starting, there was poor response to the acceleration and suddenly RPM jumped over 3000. This hesitation was very transient (a couple of seconds), but now it is getting worse (1-2 minutes, sometimes). This phenomenon is only at low speed (less than 40mph). After 5 minutes, everything was turned into normal.Of course, this car is under warranty, so I got this car checked several times. But the only thing I heard from mechanic is that there is no problem in the car and that hesitation is a sort of normal. Every morning I had to experience same thing and this is really annoying. I payed $35000 for this car, but this is really frustrating. I would like to hear from someone who experience same problems with mine.
  • tcstcs Posts: 1
    I have the same car -- 2005 GC with hemi-- with the same problem. It's at it's worst when driving at very low rpm's and going up a slight grade. Reminds me of a standard transmission when you don't downshift it when you should. Mine's going back to the dealer for the first time next week for it's 3,000 mile oil change and this is at the top of my complaint list. I'm not a mechanic but I this feels like a problem with the torque converter which I'm sure is designed to lock-up as soon as possible to improve fuel economy.
  • 56morrison56morrison Posts: 2
    Last year I thought the AC system needed to be charged and it was a plugged drain. I'm sure that is what it is this year since I'm not getting a water under the truck.

    Where to I finf the drain?

    Thanks
  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    The drain is located INSIDE the right "frame" rail just in front of the firewall. You can see it if you look close through some of the holes in the rail. I actually drilled a little larger hole in the rail to get better access but don't remove any more than you have to. My AC was and is still draining into the passenger foot well leaving the carpet wet anytime I use the AC, which isn't often. I am also open to ideas anyone might have about how to clear this drain. I have tried a probe and compressed air but so far no luck.
  • mikeg60mikeg60 Posts: 2
    I have been complaining about this problem since 800 miles. They just took it in today. the dealership said that it is a problem from the factory. there is moisture in the transmission. they are going to flush it out 3 times and reprogram my computer.
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    ????????
    Please see message #1186. In it you will find two pictures of the drain hose on a '98 Grand Cherokee.
    It's quite possible they may have made a mid year change but the drain hose for the AC on my '98 is OUTSIDE the framerail.
  • 56morrison56morrison Posts: 2
    I'm still having trouble finding it. The frame I assume is which the motor mounts are attached to. The hole you drilled was in the bottom of the frame? I can't seem to find it but will keep looking. Thanks for your help.
  • mdaymday Posts: 5
    which engine do you have, i have hemi with with the 5-545rfe and quadradrive and it bucks and feels like its missing like a bad plug wire, after it shifts to 3rd gear it loses rpms , then 4th gear , there is a tsb for the other transmission but not the 5-545rfe quadradrive yet i now have 10,000 miles been doing it since new ,please advise when you get it fixed thanks,mark
  • cgivenscgivens Posts: 5
    On the 96 model, the hose shown in Paule's pix #1186 is the overflow hose from the coolant reservoir--not the A/C. Xscout #1200 description seems more like what what I experienced. Here is how I finally stopped the leak: Pull back the top of the carpet covering the passenger footwell. high against the firewall you will see a gray plastic connector in the shape of a V in which the refrigerant lines from the engine compartment enter the evaporator case. I found the leak at that connection. By sealing the gap with silicone (like making a gasket) to make it water tight stopped the water flow that weeps into the carpet. Water now flows out through the passenger frame rail. I took a picture of it with my digital camera. Now all I need to do is figure out how to post it. cgivens
  • jerrymailjerrymail Posts: 3
    I have a 98 JGC and have been searching for a solution to this exact problem. My JGC also leaks a/c fungus water into the passenger floorboard. I agree the photos in #1186 are from the coolant overflow. From my research I don't think there is a drain hose connected. My JGC seems to drain directly into the frame rail (if you look up through the hole in the side of the rail from the wheel well you will see another compartment inside it - like a rail inside the rail). Anyway, I have pulled out the plastic plug from the V shaped area of the evaporator case and run a coat hanger through it (the coat hanger almost reaches to the front bumper) and don't seem to have any obstructions - it just rattles around inside that frame rail.

    If I park on a hill with the nose down after driving with the a/c on it drains out the front of the frame rail at the front bumper very nicely and I don't get any drainage into the floorboard. But if I park with the nose uphill I can watch it drip into the floor. It comes in right where the evaporator case goes through the firewall. So I did what #1206 did by applying silicone around that seal two days ago and I think that fixed it - we'll see - I'll let you guys know in a few days. If anyone has anymore suggestions please post real soon!
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