Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

14243454748165

Comments

  • tsn59tsn59 Posts: 2
    I had the same problem. I did have cv joints replaced, but I found the locking up while turning was only fixed by replacing the front brakes. I did this myself for about 15 bucks and it imediately made the car more nimble in tight spots. I have a '94 JGC Laredo.
    Somehow when the Brakes get warn the tend to get into a bind. It wouldnt hurt to replace the rotors either while your at it.
  • ljcoteljcote Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee - did anyone ever reply to your posting? I'm wondering if it is a big issue that needs to be fixed.
  • crewse1crewse1 Posts: 1
    HI - I'm having the same problem. 97 JGC and fan stopped working - works when directly wired to battery - all fuse's are OK - don't know where to go from here. I've also heard that it might be some sort of module or relay - but where is it?

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks.
  • coolnwocoolnwo Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem can anyone help?
  • neznez Posts: 2
    Hey man,
    I have a 99 JGC and had the exact same problem, but with the drivers side. This problem was always intermittent, but now it's only warm air and doesn't change. The only way to fix the problem would be to take your dash apart and get to the heater assembly. The problem is that your blend door is stuck in one position. You can get the error codes by doing the following: Turn your key to the on position and hold down the A/C and Circulate buttons at the same time. Then turn one of your temp dials clockwise. This will make the display flash some codes. I think mine showed 19, 42 and 52. I found these codes in the Haynes manual. The codes read something like Door travel is too small. 50% or the dealer cost will be for the labour to take apart your dash. The other is for a new assembly. If you or a friend are mechanically inclined just get to the door and find out what's causing it to get stuck. I'm working on mine this weekend and I'll let you know.

    :confuse:
  • jeephemijeephemi Posts: 7
    jkram, I think you have a good idea about getting people with the problem together. I am now waiting for the Service rep to return a call to the dealership. I was told she is on vacation for 2 weeks. I drove a new Hemi last week and it did not drive nearly as bad as mine. The stumble was very, very slight. I think with a few miles on it the stumble will get worse. I have a fear that the problem may be with the cylinder deactivation. This could be very costly for Chrysler and I think they don't want to admit it at this point in time. Let me know if there is a secure way for me to contact you, we need to talk.
  • optilinkoptilink Posts: 1
    I am having a problem with my 05 hemi grand cherokee. The dealer installed the wrong type oil, much heavier than the required 5w-20. My lifters are now very noisy. Has anyone used anything other 5w-20 in their hemi Jeep without problems? Will a simple oil and filter change quiet the engine back down? Does anyone know why the multi displacement will not work with anything other than 5w-20(per the owners manual)?
  • jmcelwainjmcelwain Posts: 4
    2005 Laredo with the 4.7 and 545 xmission with the 35 mph stumble problem when in higher gear. Downshift and it runs fine. Can make it fail by driving 35-40 mph in a high gear and starting up a hill. Can feel it normally up to about 60mph missing and stumbling occasionally. Will be the 3rd visit next week at the dealer's. 6k miles.

    Mac
  • jkramjkram Posts: 17
    I looked at your profile and your contact info is private. My last post was moderated out because I did not follow the forum rules, my fault. I don't want to get thrown off, because it is important we let others see what is going on with our Jeeps.
    sincerly, jkram
  • neznez Posts: 2
    OK I took my glove box out and found the Actuator (electric motor) that moves the blend door. I unscrewed the Actuator and I can manually turn the door and change the temp. The motor is seized so the door is stuck on cold air. This motor controls the temp for the Driver and middle vents. If it's the passenger side with the problem it will be more difficult to get to the motor as it is located on the side closer to the engine. Your local Jeep dealer will be able to show you the parts diagram. Just tell them you need a price on some A/C Heater parts, but don't know the name and you think it's a blend door actuator. They printed out a diagram to show me the parts and the ridiculous price. Best bet is to go to an Auto Wrecker. Dealer is $160 CDN for Actuator. If it's the temp control unit it's $650 CDN.

    Good luck man. Hope this helps.
  • mgallardomgallardo Posts: 1
    I got a 98 JGC. I recently started noticing water builing up under my clear passenger floor mats. It's the a/c drain that's clogged. In detail where did you drill the hole for the plug? Do you have any pictures you could send?? Thanks for any help.
  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    Sorry, do not have any pictures even if I could figure out how to post them. On the passenger side firewall directly under the dash assembly is where it is located. Pull back the carpet (you may have to remove some of the plastic footwell trim on the right) and you will see it high in the center of the passenger footwell. In my 97 JGC it is a round black plastic piece with a y shaped plastic at the top. I drilled the hole in the center of the round piece. This will give you a clear view out the front of the forward facing drain tube and also give you access straight up to clear the tube coming from the condenser. I found a bit of debris in this area although so far I still am getting drainage in to the footwell. I am going to try drilling another hole up higher in the condenser area to see if there is more that I can clear out. I will post any major successes or disasters!
  • youn0813youn0813 Posts: 28
    I noticed that my 2004 Jeep GC Ltd. tend to whine a bit when I sharp-turn at slow speed. Is that normal? It almost sounds abnormal..
  • jeepfreakjeepfreak Posts: 1
    I had the same problem w/40k on our 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L-The dealer replaced the cooling fan for $400+ and 6mths later same problem. I replaced the cooling fan relay behind and under the right front headlight assembly-still no fix. We were getting nervous at stop lights and drive thru restaurants. I heard through the grape vine at the dealer that the fan harness plugs were shorting out and I purchased two bullet connectors-cut out the plug and VOILA!! :D no more problems.Now we can sit still @ lights and drive thru restaurants and run the A/C full blast. Hope this works-unplug your harness look into both sides for signs of a shortage.
  • guadianoguadiano Posts: 1
    I had a simaliar problem but the whole left side of my GJC stopped working I took it to the dealer and he stated the jeep has 3 internal control computers the one in my left door was frozen. It was $368 for a new computer and $60 to possibly unfreeze it
  • I have exactly the same problem on a '98. How'd your fix work?
  • f3userf3user Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem with my 03 GC Ltd. It just started a few weeks ago. I have had one mechanic drive the vehicle and he is checking the Tech Service Bulletins (TSB's) now. He said that these models have a hydraulically driven fan motor that share fluid with the power steering pump. There are some potential area's in that setup that could cause the problem. Mine whines more when turning left than right, but occasionally when turning right I feel a slight "roughness" or vibration in the steering wheel also. I can tolerate the noise but want to know if I have an impending power steering pump failure or something serious like that. I have not noticed any problems with it overheating, in fact I have been impressed with how cool it has been running in June Mississippi weather! Hope this helps, I'll try to remember to post the solution when we find it.
  • michianamichiana Posts: 8
    Again, I am replying to my own message, but if anyone else has the same problem, here is what happened.

    Simple, the Keyless Entry Module blew up. The Keyless Entry is a circuit board located in the overhead console/dome light. When it blew up it sent a signal to the Interior Light Module (located in glove box panel) telling it that the 'Unlock' button was constantly being pushed, so the lights were always on.

    You know how you hit the unlock button and the dome light comes on.

    It was also telling the Security Alarm Module (also in glove box) the doors were unlocked (constantly), so the security was never armed, even when you hit the electronic door lock.

    When I removed the cajun style (blackened) Keyless entry module, everything returned back to normal. Now all I have to do is see if I can get the dealer to get me a new one. :D
  • michianamichiana Posts: 8
    I hope this helps you guys. My first thought is power steering belts. During humid times (or very cold temps) you'll notice squeals around every parking lot. That's pretty normal.
    Some tricks are to never turn the wheel all the way until it stops and to not turn the wheel while the car is not moving.
    If you have already checked the belt and it is not noticably loose these tricks should help.
    If you know it is not the belt then I do not have any suggestions, except that I am pretty sure the steering pump cannot squeal on its own.
  • bjeepbjeep Posts: 2
    I have an 03 JGC 4.0L and the fan quit working. I have purchased a new relay and was looking for any insight on the removal of relay?
  • youn0813youn0813 Posts: 28
    Oh man exactly same with the "roughness" too. I can feel it on my right arm from the armrest (the CD container). I don't turn the wheel all the way though..
  • My son drives a 98 jeep grand cherokee ltd. . For the last 6 months on occasion, the power options will act up and do strange things. then all will be ok again for a while. Also on two occasions the jeep will not start . We have taken it to a dealer and they cannot find the problem. Then next thing you know it starts ok. Any similiar experiences /fixes?? thanks
  • psudhakarpsudhakar Posts: 2
    I have a 93 JGC laredo and had the exact problem. After 1200 $ and changing many sensors ( which did not fix the problem), I realised IT WAS THE CAP ON THE HT COIL COMMING LOOSE DUE TO HEAT EXPANSION (THE HT COIL SITS ON THE SIDE OF THE ENGINE, REMEMBER). ALL I DID WAS USE A TIE WRAP AND BELT BOTH CAPS ON THE HT COIL TOGETHER. ALSO CHK THE engine is not heating beyond 110 deg C.
    DONT SPEND ANY MONEY ON ANYTHING ELSE.
  • psudhakarpsudhakar Posts: 2
    Hi,
    This is a simple problem which I solved by changing the HT coil and TIE wrapping both caps of the HT coil.
    This is what fixed my issue after changing a bunch of sensors @ 1200 $.

    Presently I am dealing with the Death Wobble.
    SUDA
  • this is exactly what ours is doing. it used to stall at stop signs and lights, but after the crank shaft positioning sensor and cam shaft sensor were replaced, it stopped. but now it still stalls while driving down the interstate. the only thing that hasn't been replaced at this point (it's been going on a year) is the computer. i'll buy one if that will fix it, but trying to chase down the source of the stalling has cost a fortune. it's a 97 grand cherokee. after it the engine cuts out we'll coast to the side of the highway and usually the engine will come back to life.

    we've blown out 2 mufflers from backfiring. now, we just tolerate the noise because it isn't worth replacing the muffler anymore. it backfires every time at least once or twice. mechanic said replacing the cam shaft pos. sensor should have fixed it, but it hasn't.

    we're to the point where we're ready to ditch it or hang ourselves. can anyone please help?
  • this is what we've replaced so far:

    spark plugs, spark plug wires, rotor, distributor cap, ignition coil, fuel pump, fuel filter, map sensor, distributor (which included the cam shaft sensor), catalytic converter and muffler (twice), crank shaft sensor, ignition coal again.

    this is in reference to my previous message, #1427
  • don23don23 Posts: 2
    I have had this vehicle for 7+ years and have had to replace the ignition coil on a regular basis. It started out every 6-8 months and has gotten worse. Changed two today! My wife can even do it now. We carry at least one spare at all times. It was running real bad at 1900- 2100 rpms. Changed wires, distributor, plugs, etc and thought I had it. Wrong! This is a 5.2 liter and a snapon scanner shows no codes but a big analyzer indicates low spark from the coil. I have had numerous suggestions, anybody got an idea?
  • tnadertnader Posts: 1
    I'm having a similar problem- did you ever get it resolved? I've had mine to the dealer three times now- they keep replacing the bulbs, but the same problem occurs- when the headlights and running lights are on, the running lights and brake lights don't light when the brake is applied
  • sresendessresendes Posts: 1
    I have the same front end problem on a 95' Cherokee, my neighbor seems to think it's the universal joints in front. Not so sure about that. Have you found out what your problem is yet? My guess is that we both have Chrysler products.

    Thanks
  • jk56jk56 Posts: 2
    Hi, My 1997 Grand Cherokee,4.0 auto transmission is having problems between shifts. Sometimes it drives normal and then sometimes it's as if it's in neutral. The vehicle must be brought to a complete stop turned off and then start over until the next time which might be 5 minutes. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks jk56
Sign In or Register to comment.