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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    You may have to change out the asd(automatic shutdown relay). The asd and fuel pump relay are located in the power distribution center in the engine compartment.
    The asd relay connects battery voltage to the fuel injectors and the ignition coil, while the fuel pump relay connects battery voltage to the fuel pump only. If the PCM senses there is no signal from the camshaft or crankshaft postion sensors, the PCM will de-energize both relays.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    to clear historical faults, hold the AC or the recirc button for 3 seconds. The faults have cleared when 2 horizontial bars appear in the display or do not appear after several on/off cycles of the ignition key.

    The dealership may have forgotten to connect the ambient ouside temperature sensor back up. This is located directly behind the front grille, and may just needs to be plugged back in. This is thier mistake, and you should make them clear the problem with your vehicle.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    It sounds like you need to adjust your shift linkage to your transfer case.

    Have a friend shift the lever in/out of different positions, so that you know which linkage it is that you want to adjust.
    Block/ckock your wheels so that you don't get run over. Shift the transfer case into neutral. Loosen the lock bolt in the selector rod trunnion.(This looks like a rod that can be ajusted forward or rearwards). Make sure that the transfer case is truly in neutral.(this can be done by being able to physically move the vehicle by hand backwards or forwards)adjust the trunnion as nessasary.
    Test drive the vehicle and verify that the transfer case is fully engaged in all 3 postions.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • 99gcl99gcl Member Posts: 1
    My heater has stopped working, and being in Canada -25 degrees celsius is not pleasant. I can feel heat coming, but whether its on low or high I have no fan. Blower motor perhaps? Any suggestions?
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    Check post #2324.
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    The blower motor is located under the glove compartment area of the dash, near the firewall. Always check your fuses, and relays that pertain to your blower motor, before you suspect the worst of the situation.
    Bend back the clip, and release the wiring harness, pulling it down for easier disconnection of the connector.
    Connect a jumper wire between motor ground terminal, and a good chassis ground. Connect a fused jumper wire from the positive battery post and the positive terminal tab on the blower side connector. If the motor now works, then remove the grounded jumper wire, and if the motor stops working, then check for bad ground, and retest. If the blower motor still doesn't work, the blower motor is faulty, and needs to be replaced. If the positive fused jumper wire blows the fuse, then the blower motor need to be replaced due to seizure of the motor itself.

    Replacing the blower motor is fairly easy. Take out the blower motor, and detach the retainer clip from the motor shaft.slip the fan off the old motor, mount it on the new one, install the retainer clip, and reintall the new motor.
    DONE. Wasn't that easy?

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    Check post #2324.
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    This problem that you are having sounds like that PCM has trouble codes stored into it's memory, and is affecting the security system's integrity. You need to have the vehicle taken to a dealership, and have them scan your vehicle for potential problems with sensors or wiring continuity. Also have them reset the vehicle's security system, and always pick the brains of the tech that is working on your vehicle, to aquire info about quick fixing your problems.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    Check post #2324
  • christhecarguychristhecarguy Member Posts: 1
    In my first few snow drives with my new Grand Cherokee, I've noticed a grinding noise from the front end when the front wheels start to slip? Is this just a limited slip front end? It's sounds a lot like the limited slip front end did in my Jetta turbo. I don't remember which Jeep term I have for the 4WD I have, but I have a V8 with the all wheel drive (no levers). Any info is appreciated.
  • gemini5362gemini5362 Member Posts: 17
    My son changed the fuel pump relay on his jeep 4 cylinder with no help. He is starting to narrow down a bit on the symptoms. If the weather is warm out it starts fine. When the weather is cold out it will start fine if the jeep has been sitting for a while. When he runs the jeep till it reaches operating temperature and shuts it off it will not start for at least 20 to 30 minutes. It wont do this if the weather is warm (around 50 degrees F or greater) if it is colder temps outside is when he has problems. I saw the post on changing the ASD relay I am going to suggest he do that next. I also have done some reading on websites and have seen some talk about the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Is it likely that the CPS is getting flaky and being the problem?
  • shandibartonshandibarton Member Posts: 1
    I have had my Jeep Cherokee for about 2 years now.
    Here is my list of issues with this hunk of junk...
    * The radio has never worked, it comes on but all I hear is static....but you can listen to tapes-that is if you can find a place that sells casettes
    * It likes to stall while I am accelerating, just die like I turned the key off in the middle of driving and it becomes extremely hard to turn the wheel. But it would start right up again.
    * It gets worse- I am sure most of you already know - Then not only does it die while I am driving, but now it wants to die at practically every red light, every stop sign every other mile. But for some reason that is not an everyday thing, it is about twice a week.
    *One day it doesn't start at all, I get a new starter, Well it started again but that wasn't the problem, so I get a new battery as well because I had to get a jump occasionly to get it to start--No thats not it.
    *Now it is making awful noises while I am trying to drive it, it grinds and sometimes when I try to start it, it knocks wildly. And for the past week it wants to die about every ten minutes.
    -----These are the answers from mechanics---
    1. It is definitly the fuel pump
    2. Seems to me you have yourself an electrical problem
    3. Its gotta be your sensors, my wife has this problem too
    4. Driveshaft Bearing, its giving your sensors a bad readin'
    5. I think its your Ignition System or it could be the Ignition Coil.

    I guess now you know my little bit of info I would really love it if someone could give me an answer that is not a guess. I will NEVER have a Jeep again and if you have the money to get rid of it DO IT NOW!!!!!
  • jbddbradyjbddbrady Member Posts: 1
    does your check engine light come on during this fiasco??? i experience the same issues when it it my O2 sensor.

    good luck minus the radio that is
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    This very well may be the culprit, or mabey it is not....
    The crankshaft position sensor, and the camshaft position sensors work in conjuction with every other sensor in the vehicle to completely give the ECM all pertient data needed for optimum drivability in all conditions.

    If the service engine soon/engine light does not come on then, there may be a sensor(s) on it's way out. When the light does come on, then a sensor(s) need to be replaced.
    Spend the little amount of money, and take the vehicle to a jeep dealership to have them scan the jeep for any defective sensor(s). This takes the guess work out of changing sensor(s) that may, or may not be the problem. If, and when the dealership replaces any defective sensor(s), the scan tool also resets the On Board Diagonstics (OBD), which only a certified jeep OBD scan tool can do.

    I do suggest to many people that you do pick up a Haynes Repair Manual as this will tell you everything you need to know about anything to do with your vehicle.(available at most auto parts stores for about $20.00)

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • hornet2hornet2 Member Posts: 11
    I have a 94 GC 4.0. I had the same problem until yesterday. It was only through exploration that I found the oil leak. It was coming from the oil filter adapter where it connects to the block. It was just a simple o-ring that had to be replaced. You can get the part from any auto parts store. It was under $2.00. Keep in mind that if your going to replace the large o-ring, you might as well replace the two smaller ones that are around the retaining bolt that holds the adapter in place. I'm sure they're just as cheap.
  • hornet2hornet2 Member Posts: 11
    I'm experiencing higher than normal oil pressure as well as blow-by into my air filter. I presumed it was my pcv valve, but I've learned that my 94 GC doesn't have one that is standard. In fact, I heard that the PVC on the 4.0 is built into the valve cover. Is this true? If so, how do you clean/replace it? Please tell me it's an easy fix!
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    First of all, take your vehicle to a jeep dealership to have them scan the On Board Diagostics (OBD). This will let you know what your problem is, and how to go about fixing the problem. I, seeing this problem before, just quite not as bad, tend to lean towards the crankshaft, and/or the camshaft position sensors needing to be replaced. I cannot tell you what exactly the problem is, because i myself would be connecting a OBD scan tool to your vehicle and searching your sensors, as the dealership would.

    As for the radio, ask the dealership tech to check under your dash to see if your antenna wire is connected to your radio.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    1994 GC are equipped with a CCV (crankcase ventilation) system which preforms the same function as the PVC (positive crankcase ventilation) system.This CCV uses a rubber fitting with a molded-in orfice that is pressed into a hole in the valve cover. The fitting is connected to the intake manifold by a plastic hose.
    With the engine idling, pull the CCV hose from the rubber grommet. Place your finger over the hose opening. If there is no vacuum, check for a plugged hose, manifold port, or valve. Take a paper clip and clean the orfice where the hose connects to on the valve cover (looks like a big rubber grommet), and push through any blockages that may be hindering operation. Change any parts that you may suspect are defective. Thats it. Done.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • lugster84lugster84 Member Posts: 6
    I have also had that problem over the years. What I do is unlock the (outside)passenger door with the key, this shuts off the alarm. It never works in the drivers door. Now my problem is that the alarm will go off at odd times so what I do is, before I open the door to get out I hit the door lock button (on the driver's door). I then slide the lock back and get out, slide the lock forward to lock the door. This does not arm the alarm system. 93 jgc 145k ready to sell also a workhorse.
  • lugster84lugster84 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 93 jgc 4.0 with 145k. The alarm goes off at odd times when it is armed (I currently don't arm it, pain in the but). Also, the VIC does not show any wheels lit (in 2wd or 4wd) and the 4wd does not appear to work. There is a vacuum line coming from the front gear housing that is not connected. According to the vac diagram, it should be connected with the speed control. Should I just tee off that and make the connection?? Thanks,
  • megamikemegamike Member Posts: 42
    To me it sounds like a fuel delivery problem. I had a '96 Chevy Tahoe that did the same to me in 2002. It ended up being the connecting valve on the hose that's connected to the fuel tank.
    Along that route (from fuel tank to injection) there are many valves and things that can get damaged.
  • curallcurall Member Posts: 2
    I purchased a used 1998 JGC in June-2004. After 500 miles I had to have the rear differential over-hauled ($650). Also , front stabilizer links ($142) The Jeep dealer gave a 12 mo.. 12,000 mile warranty. It is bad again in only 10,000 miles (14 months) NO WARRANTY.
    The front differential was over-hauled 8.000 miles after purchase ($1100) There was a terriffic thump every time you hit a bump since purchased. Had to replace both front and rear sway bar assemblies and the track bar ($226). New ignition wires, distributor cap, spark plugs, etc. Had this vehicle for 18 mo. and have spent $2557) on repairs.
    News about the rear differential-- DC issued a TSB dated 7-31-1998 regarding the aluminum differential , manufactured by Dana, ie.: NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO 1997 AND 1998 GRAND CHEROKEES EQUIPPED WITH V-8 ENGINES AND ALUMINUM HOUSING DANA 216 RBA AXLES BUILT IN THE USA (ZJ) BETWEEN DECEMBER 1 1996 AND MARCH 31, 1998 (1997 MDH 1201XX THROUGH 1998 MDH 0331XX) AND BUILT IN EUROPE (ZG) BETWEEN JANUARY 20, 1997 AND JUNE 30, 1998 ((1997 MDH 0120XX AND 1998 MDH 0630XX). SYMTOM/CONDITION-- A growling noise may be present coming from the rear axle. This noise may be caused by gradual wearing of the rear axle carrier bearing and races. The noise is usually light at first and is often mis-diagnosed for a wind noise or air leak in the tailgate area. The noise becomes gradually worse with increased mileage. A remanufactured axle assembly has been released for use in this situation.
    The axle assemblies will be shipped minus axle shafts and wheel end/brake components which will require transfer from the original assembly. The axle assemblies will be shipped dry as they will require cover removal for installation of the axle shaft "C" clip retainer.
    CAUTION: THE AXLE BEARINGS RIDE DIRECTLY ON THE AXLE SHAFT WITHOUT A RACE IN THIS APPLICATION. DAMAGE TO THE AXLE SHAFT CAN RESULT FROM CONTAMINATION IF METAL PARTICLES ARE PRESENT IN THE FLUID. CAREFULLY INSPECT THE AXLE SHAFT FOR DAMAGE AT THIS AREA. IF ANY DAMAGE IS PRESENT, AXLE SHAFT REPLACEMENT WILL BE REQUIRED.
    DIAGNOSIS; Road test the vehicle. If noise is present and the vehicle falls within the build range, perform the Repair Procedure.
    The part numbers and description required are listed on this TSB (Technical Service Bulletin)
    I just came accross this TSB and had the Local Jeep Dealer road test my vehicle (10,000 mi.) bad bearing again, as mentioned above. The technition acknoledged the bearing is bad. Can't do anything for you- 12 months has passed. Service manager contacts regional DC representative- NO HELP!! I call DC customer Relations _ NO HELP!!
    DC acknowledges (BY THEIR TSB) they produced or installed faulty merchandise manufactured by others. Their position in this instance was: If one of these goes bad while under warrany we'll fix it, but if we can make it past the 3 yr. 36 mo. warranty we'll place the burden for our mistake on the customer. ($1300) just for the housing; gears and bearings are extra- plus labor. Ball park figure for repair; $2000- $2500. I ask you , " IS THIS BEEING ETHICAL IN BUSINESS?" THIS IS THE FIRST DC CAR I HAVE EVER PURCHASED AND THE LAST !!
    When I took the JGC in, the dealer should have been privy to the problem, with the models mentioned above, which has gone on for the last 6 yrs. It wasn't brought to attention until I confronted them. POOR SERVICE- NO ETHICS!
  • orangemikeorangemike Member Posts: 1
    the alarm system has never worked right. i could always get the engine started by locking/unlocking the door. but now even that doesn't work. i see that there are some alarm relays and fuses in the power distribution system. can i remove the alarm/automatic shutdown fuses and relays and have a car that starts again?
  • alzosalzos Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 Grand Cherokee that suddenly stalls. Sometimes it will restart and other times it needs to rest and then it will restart. I hooked up an OBD II analyzer, and it returns no trouble codes. I hooked up the analyzer just after it stalled and again, no trouble codes.

    Any idea what to do?

    Thanks,
    Bill
  • trek87trek87 Member Posts: 49
    1998 JGC Ltd. 5.2L V8 102,000 mi
    oil change every 3,000 mi
    all preventative maintenance/tuneups

    Hi All,

    It got pretty cold here this week (~10F), and I noticed that until my baby attains normal running temperatures (slightly below 200F), I hear an intermittent squeaking noise coming from the front of my car. It sounds like it's coming from the engine (I think it might be a bearing associated with my timing belt), but I am not sure what would be making that noise. I have heard other cars making that noise too. If anyone has any information and recommendations for me I would greatly appreciate it.

    Also, I was wondering when the front/rear shocks and/or struts should be replaced. My Jeep seems a bit bouncy these days for the GC I am used too.

    Finally, I noticed my drive train sounds a bit like a marble shaking around in a tin can when I have the car idling in drive. And my overdrive is starting to sound like that low-pitched whining that you hear when a fast-moving truck blows by you.

    Thanks so much for any and all help. I want to get these things fixed!

    -George
  • andretandret Member Posts: 2
    I have been driving my 2003 Grand Cherokee for the past 2 years and recently jumped into a 2005 Grand Cherokee (Mountain Addition). I am noticing a big difference between the V8 engines. My 2003 Cherokee had good get up, there were was no lul between gears and it just felt more responsive, if I put the gas pedal down you would fell it immediately. My new Jeep feels quite opposite. It just feels like it doesn't want to perform. Does anyone know why there would be such a difference in power and performance? Is there a software update that will remedy this?
  • tcjeeptcjeep Member Posts: 1
    I have a '01 JGC 4l It has never given me a problem but out of interest, I ran the error codes from the OBC and it displays a code P0740, which seems to indicate that the Torque converter is not locking up when I'm crusing. How can I check this? Can this condidtion cause damage? The Malfunction light is not on, has never been on except during the lamp check. Transmission fluid has never overheated, as far as I know. I don't get a lot of help from Crysler, they say if the MIL is not on I should quit worrying and wait till my next service is due. I'm losing sleep over this, please help. Thanks.
  • davidc1davidc1 Member Posts: 168
    I think I am feeling the same thing. My '03 seemed to have more immediate pick up. My guess is that 1) '05 is heavier by about 500 pounds(stiffer body, safer, etc..) 2) suspension is also somewhat stiffer resulting in less squat when accelerating from a stop, which makes it feel like it's slower. In reality, I don't think it's that much slower, it just feels that way. I do think the '05 handles much better though.
  • coldnaturecoldnature Member Posts: 3
    I just noticed that when I push the memory recall or keyless entry the drivers mirror adjusts, but stops in a random place each time. What is wore in there and can I get it and replace it myself? If it would just stay where it is, I wouldn't mind, except that each time you unlock the door, it trys to go back to it's position and usually it ends up too low. I assume there is no way to de-link the mirror memory from the rest of the car?
  • andretandret Member Posts: 2
    I defintly agree with the fact that the 2005 has a much better ride to it. Almost to floaty in my opinion. I guess I was to used to the way that my 2003 handled. Thanks for the reply, I was hoping that I was not the only one feeling this way.
  • gmfangmfan Member Posts: 188
    In 2002, I got rid of my 1996 full-time all-wheel drive GC V-8 because of the axle and rear-end going bad. Yes, the axle bearings run directly on the axle, which is stupid. At 118,000 miles my rear end was making an awful noise, it was embarrassing because I could not hear people in the cabin when driving down the highway at 60 mph. Mine was the right rear axle and the mechanic showed me how it was litteraly wearing down, like inherent vice. There were chunks missing on the axle. I was quoted $2100, had a water pump going, and my front end was starting to go, so I dumped it. That vehicle was a big disappointment after I hit 100,000 miles.
  • curallcurall Member Posts: 2
    I have been an automobile owner since 1949. Several GM products then Ford since 1965. NEVER have I had to replace any of the components listed on my post in any of those vehicles which were all driven well over 100,000 miles, and in relatively good condition when traded off.
    DC just doesn't get it. If you treat your customers with respect and address issues PROPERLY the customer will be back.
    Case in point; I sell some merchandise for use in fresh water. A customer purchased items totalling about $45.00. Shortly there-after the customer wintered in Florida and used the articles in salt water. Naturally corrosion occured due to this application.
    He came back, 4 months after purchase, with complaint of corrosion of the articles. I politely informed him that stainless steel items would have been a better choice in that application. I told him I would fix the articles at my cost of the merchandise, no charge for labor, and made some other repair he had not requested. He left my place of business satisfied and in good spirit.
    He returned 2 weeks later bringing 3 OTHER CUSTOMERS WITH HIM. THEY PURCHASED $150.00 WORTH OF MERCHANDISE.
    This type of CUSTOMER RELATIONS is what GROWS BUSINESS. Some times you have to give a little to get alot!!
    If DC is really serious in growing their business they should, flat out: 1. Acknowledge the problems; 2. Treat customers with respect (not like dirt). 3. Do what is NECESSARY to maintain their customer base. Other wise, Hello Ford, GM, etc.
  • cknschneidercknschneider Member Posts: 3
    I recently had the cylinder head re-conditioned (mill work, new valves, springs, seats, seals) due to a blown head gasket. While I had it torn down I replaced the timing chain and gears and cracked exhaust manifold. Now that its back together, I hear a metal-to-metal knock at idle and under acceleration. It's quite while cruising. When I come to a stop, the idle also drops down to about 200 rpm. Tried a stethescope to listen to each rocker...no noise. I poked around various spots around the block...can't find the source of the knock. Does anyone have any ideas?? Thanks in advance for any suggestions. Hope its not connecting rod wear!!! It didn't knock before the head gasket blew.
  • sxr700sxr700 Member Posts: 3
    1996 jgc 118,000mi,alt was going bad voltage would drop & alt would squel,now it will not start,the headlights work,as does the interior lights but nothing else ,when the key is turned nothing happens the headlights do not dim
    i checked the fuses in control box under hood no problem ,i swiched some relays but still have nothing
    any suggestions???
  • gemini5362gemini5362 Member Posts: 17
    SXR700 did not say if his 1996 was an automatic or not. if the gauges work but it just wont turn over and it is an automatic check the neutral safety switch connection. The vehicle has to be in neutral or park for the engine to turn over. I have had cars that the cable just came loose and give a similar indication to what you are saying
  • alzosalzos Member Posts: 2
    The car suddenly stalls and will not re-start until it rests for about 5 minutes. Other than this, it runs and idles well. I hooked up an OBD II analyzer, and there are no trouble codes. The cause could be hundreds of different things, so I'm hesitant to just start replacing parts. Can anyone guide me as to most likely causes of this intermittent failure?
  • lilwondergirllilwondergirl Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo - Within the past two months I've changed the ignition coil, distributor, distributor cap, spark plugs, battery, crank position sensor and IAC. The fuel pump was changed in June. It started with a rough idle and after changing the ignition coil and CPS it started stalling. I've taken it to two places, including a Jeep dealer service center and neither of them have been able to pinpoint the problem. The dealership had it for 2 days and it didn't stall once, but as soon as I brought it home, it stalled while pulling into my driveway. Both places ran diagnostic tests and no error codes came up. It used to run for about 20 to 30 minutes then stall, now its been reduced to about 5 minutes. Any suggestions? I'm beginning to lose hope. :(
  • hornet2hornet2 Member Posts: 11
    I recently took my 94 GC to a "known" tire shop to get an alignment. They called and said there was no use in aligning my jeep because it needed a new front track bar. Since the alignment was a monthly, $20-off special, and the total cost of a new track bar with installation at their shop was over $250, should I be suspicious that they were trying to sell me something I didn't need? How can I tell if my track bar is bad? Could it be that the bushings just need to be replaced, or do track bars really go bad over time? Coincidentally, a similar situation occurred at the same shop when I took it there to use a coupon to get my tranny flushed. When they learned that I didn't want anything else done besides replacing the filter, they told me that it might not be a good idea to flush the t-fluid on a vehicle with over 300K. That didn't make sense to me at all. Periodic maintenance is the key to a Jeeps survival. Any takers?
  • hornet2hornet2 Member Posts: 11
    This is a long shot, but it may solve your problem. Do you happen to have any oil in your air filter? I had the problem of a rough idle until a few days ago when I replaced the CCV valves and hoses on my 94 GC Laredo. It turned out that years of build up had almost completely blocked my crankshaft ventilation sysetem. For more info, see message #2339 and the reply to it by "Trickster." If this is your problem, it'll cost under $30 to fix.
  • sxr700sxr700 Member Posts: 3
    it is an automatic,and none of the gauges work,no switchable power at all, even if its not in park or neutral
    wouldnt the radio,dummy lights & windows work.
    where is the safety switch ???
  • 1120jsmith1120jsmith Member Posts: 1
    I have owned my Jeep for the past four years, I have two questions.

    How do you replace the front Parking Lamp? It seems hard to get the lens off.

    I am starting to have emissions problems, in the past 18 months we have had the oxygen sensors replaced 3 times. I emission light comes on the gas mileage drops. I stead of getting around 320 per tank, I have been getting around 260 per tank. I bought some Lucas fuel injector cleaner and that seems to do the trick for a while. I think that the carbon builds up on the fuel injector and thats why I getting this emissions light. Anybody else got a theory????

    Need help, I am a Jeep lover
  • crookstercrookster Member Posts: 40
    I own a 2004 jeep grand cherokee limited and when i came down to go get my car I notice that the headliner is wet on the right side near the moonroof, it was raining the night before. The weird thing is that the moonroof was closed. Does anybody know what the problem is?

    Thanks!
  • blkhemiblkhemi Member Posts: 1,717
    Not to sure about the emissions problems, but I can help with the parking lamps.

    (1). There are 2 bolts that have to be removed in order to take of the entire headlamp assembly. One is a long bolt that resides on the top of the headlamp and the other is a hex-shaped bolt that also has to be removed.

    (2). Once these bolts are removed, you have to grasp firmly on the corners of the light assemby to pull free from the tabs in which the lights are held in place. Hope this helps out.

    P.S.- I thought of something as far as the emissions go. How many miles does your Jeep have on it? Sometimes with higher mileage cars, catylitic converter sometimes become defective, resulting in emissions problems and failures. If the Malfunction Indicator light is on mow, take it to Autozone and they'll tell you what the codes are free of charge. If it says something like "catylitic converter below threshold", then it's you cat.
  • lambiklambik Member Posts: 3
    I just bought a 94 Grand Cherokee and seem to have the same symptoms. Did you find out yet what it was?

    Thanks, Ed :confuse:
  • lambiklambik Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I have a similar problem with my 94 GC.

    Did you ever relosve this problem?

    thanks, Ed :confuse:
  • coldnaturecoldnature Member Posts: 3
    I have an '03 that had a vibration at 45mph, off the gas. It sounded and felt like knobby tires, or tires out of balance. But since it was only under certain conditions, I was afraid it was something in the tranny. Turned out it needed a new front driveshaft. The dealer figured it out, very quickly in fact, unless it was a lucky shot in the dark! My point is, it may be a u-joint or something like that, not necessarily the tranny.
  • jeepjohnjeepjohn Member Posts: 2
    My 99 Laredo was having serious intermittant stalling problems recently and would cut out in traffic qeues etc. Like yourself I had replaced all the possible causes I thought it might be, like plugs and HT leads etc. I finally took it to a main dealer who diagnosed the 02 Fuel Sensor was breaking down. It cost me £215 here in the UK supplied and fitted, which I thought was quite reasonable and it runs fine now.
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    Yes, track bars do go bad over time. They do need to be changed every now and again, depending on the conditions in which you drive in. Track bars are part of the front steering components that well....steer your vehicle. Unfortunatly, these cannot be rebuilt in JGC models, and must be replaced; before your vehicle decides to go left at the right hand corner. ;)

    Changing the fluid in your transmission is probably NOT a good idea, but changing the 4-6 litres and the filter is.
    Your transmission oil pan holds about 30% of the total oil in your tranny, and should be changed along with the filter. Doing a complete flush is not recommended in a tranny that has that many miles on it, because the detergents in new tranny oil will wash away the fluid film that is acting as a barrier for all the internal components in your tranny. If you do decide to do a complete flush, then may i recommend that you begin to find a decent tranny shop to replace your tranny that will more than likely fail soon. Change the filter and mabey 3 litres of oil, nothing else.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    Check the CCV, and also check to make sure you do not have a vacuum leak somewhere on your intake manifold or engine for that fact. I would start with making sure the throttle body is not leaking at the gasket to the intake. Also make sure all your connections to coil,distributor, or altenator are not faulty or loose.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    Have you checked all the fuses to see if it is as simple as a fuse? Is your battery fully charged? Check the auto shutdown relay located in the power distribution box located in the engine compartment. AS for the park/neutral safety switch, you may want to have a qualified dealership do that for you. JGC have a very complicated switch that even I wouldn't touch. IE: make a wrong mistake with the switch, and you just burned out the TCM(transmission control module) about a $300 part

    I hope this helps you and good luck m8.
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