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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    Mercedes teamed with BMW-not Daimler? Irradic shifting? Translation Please!
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Irradic shifting? Translation Please!

    Erratic? I refused to consider any other similar sounding words!

    tidester, host
  • erratic is the correct spelling, my mistake. When going up hills it does not always downshift, I can have the pedal to the floor and it wont go faster than the speed it began at IE: 45 miles per hour. It is NOT consistant though. From what I have read I believe I have a 4 speed auto transmission, and at times when driving on flat highway it will shift between 60-70 mph. It has also gone up over 4000 rpm's when trying to shift between 45-50 mph (again not consistant). I have had the jeep in 3 times now for tranny probs already and it was partially rebuilt on the last visit- they put in a new rear clutch, because it was stuck, new seals and a few other things. My jeep has shifted erratically since I bought it, have brought it to their attention and I am always told "could not duplicate," or "no problem found." Since I only take my jeep in to the dealership I bought it from, I cant get outside opinions, but I have had 2 other men drive it that are very familiar with vehichles and they found that I do have a problem with this- but not quite sure what may be causing it? Thanks in advance, Lisa
  • I have a 91 lerado cherokee and a 98 grand. The 98 grand has the this gas alarm problem. It keep going bing ! bing !! Bing ! I cant find the damn alarm speaker to shut it off. When the tank gets 1/4 below full it alarms as if it is empty. Other than this its a very nice machine. where the heck is the speaker alarm for the gas guage ?
  • I have a clunk in the front end when I turn...I just got the CV joint fixed on the passenger side and my mechanic said the drivers side was still good. Could it be my Power Steering knuckles? If so, is it a big job and what should that run me?
  • just recently ,, my jeep won't idle ,, come to a stop or when started ,, and it will slowly idle down and shut off,,, doesn't do this all the time,,,, no check engine light comes on,, no erratic idle ,,, is there a code to look for ?? i have a scanner but no new module,, 95 is my latest,,,any help would be appreciated,,,larry
  • corcor Posts: 27
    I too have experienced the same problem w/the "clunk" in reverse and the whining noise in neutral. I've taken my 2004 to (2) different dealers (in OH and recently here in CA) regarding both noises; I'm told there are completely NORMAL....... They say the clunking is in fact just the way they were built. I have driven other 99-04 GC with the I-6 and indeed, they all made the same "clunk".

    The noise in neutral I was told is due to the way the Selec-Trac 4WD system is geared. I don't have the optional differential. On mine, it doesn't matter if it is level, on an incline or a decline; I still hear that noise. Sometimes it's more noticeable than others but it's there. On my last trip to the dealer in OH, I actually pulled into the service bay and left it in neutral so they could attempt to hear it. I was simply told this was the way it is..........

    I don't know if you or anyone else has this problem, but sometimes when releasing the brakes after a stop; the rear end "jumps". Again, this is something I'm being told is completely "normal" for the GC.

    I've given up on it...... I've got 3yrs. left on my lease and I'm out of that thing. All I do now is just whatever maintenance is required and let it go.
  • urbaniteurbanite Posts: 2
    I have a '99 JCG and like a lot of you, I've had problems with the rotors. I plan to replace them with vented rotors in a few weeks, but while replacing the front cv boots, I noticed that it seems that the front rotor and hub is one unit. I just can't get the rotor to dislodge from the hub. I also can't find a defining line on the outside of the rotor that would indicate that they are two separate units. According to the repair manual I'm using, the rotor is suppose to slide off of the hub.

    Did Jeep make any '99 Grand Cherokee Ltd. 4WD with rotors and hubs as one unite or does the rotor dislodge from the hub? If the rotor does dislodge from the hub, is there a trick or tool to make a stubborn rotor dislodge? I've tried all I know how to do.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • Its aggravating isn't it, when they keep saying "it's normal." Lets face it, I have read on sites from former Daimler techs that they are told to tell their customers no problem found or better yet it must be the way you are driving this jeep, because is it operating as it should when we test drove it. I did not start hearing the spinning/hissing noise while in neutral until approximately 3 weeks ago. What ticks me off about that policy is the fact that they do not try to further investigate it. And, there are things IE: suspension and other probs that can cause the clunking in the back end that I am hearing. Unfortunately I am not savvy when it comes to mechanics, so I have to trust them when they tell me no problem found, and that has become hard due to the fact that my tranny had 3 probs not long after I brought it in and told them I was having trouble with the jeep, yet nothing was found.. oh wait, they did reset a sensor the first time! I grew up in Oh, where abouts in Oh were you?
  • jfajfa Posts: 5
    Just_Me,
    I have a 96 GC Ltd. Last fall I had the same clunking when I turned corners, but also periodically when I would hit a dip in the road. It ended up being a busted SWAY BAR. The mechanic I took it to had commented that he's seen a few Jeeps with the sway bar being the problem. Parts and Labor ran me about $130.

    Look kind of above the tire but toward the front of the Jeep. Have someone push up and down (watch your head - you don't need to be under the Jeep at all just looking from the side) on the vehicle to see if if clunks. It does not need to be running for this. Then have them turn the steering wheel both directions. Check both sides. If the clunking is happening in that area, have a mechanic look at the sway bars.
  • jfajfa Posts: 5
    Yesterday I got in my Jeep and it wouldn't start. It sounded like it was out of gas. It isn't out of gas. It would start if I had my foot on the accelerator, but as soon as I took my foot off, it would die. After about 40 minutes of this, it started and ran, but it idling (sp?) low. It made it to where I was going and back home.
    Then this morning it did the same thing. Except it would die every time I hit a red light, etc. Then it would start right back up (keeping foot on the gas of course). This afternoon, it started fine, but died half way home.
    I am hoping fuel filter, however, to test this theory, I need to know where the filter is located.
  • corcor Posts: 27
    Yeah, it's aggravating!!! I had a Mitsubishi Montero Sport XLS AWD prior to getting the GC and I just feel that the Mitsu was a better vehicle. In the 4mos I had it, no problems what so ever. Within 4wks of owning the GC it was in the shop 3x. Had I not totaled the Mitsu and Daimler-Chrysler not been offering the 4k rebate back in '03 I wouldn't have gotten this thing.

    I was told by the dealer in OH that unless a warning light comes on, don't worry about. I found that to be kind of odd, but again accepted it b/c he was the service manager. I noticed the "whining/spinning'" noise one day at an ATM about a yr ago. At first I thought it was something w/the ATM but when I got home, I dropped into Neutral and sure enough there was that noise. Long story short, after 4 trips to the dealer I was told it was normal due to the gearing of the 4WD system. Same thing goes for the rear end "jumping" after braking and for replacing the rotors 4x. They recently started warping again, so I had to pay 75.00 to have them re-surfaced.

    I'm originally from Cincy, went to college @ Miami, moved to Phoenix then Columbus, back to Phoenix, then Columbus now California.
  • jfajfa Posts: 5
    Should also add that the oil gauge keeps dropping while I am driving it and goes up when it idles. 40 being in the middle and 80 being high it drops to about 15 when driving and keeps bouncing and then goes up to between 60 and 70 when idle. Added fuel injector/carb cleaner and ran it for a few minutes and it died and the "check engine" light is now staying on. It hadn't come on until the cleaner was added to the fuel.
  • Did you do off road driving with yours, just curious- because I haven't. But hey it's worth a try, thanks for the info!! At least the repair wasn't too costly.
  • jfajfa Posts: 5
    No off-roading. It just kinda decided to start clunking out of the blue. If I had been using it as a Jeep I see on the commercials, I would have understood. They aren't very thick in diameter so maybe they just wear after a while. Do you "feel" the clunk under your feet at all? I did once in a while. That may tell you if we are in the right vicinity. Did you see my other postings today? Posting #'s in the 1070's. Can't remember the numbers. Not sure what's going on with it now.
  • Like nearly everybody on this board I'm having problems with the front rotors on my 2003 Grand Cherokee. The car is still under warranty but of course the brakes are not. The dealer gleefully told me that it would only be $479 to fix 'em but that offfended my cheap-streak so I plan to do them myself. Bought some premium new rotors and pucks and got started. The calipers came off easily, the puck bracket came off without too much trouble, but the rotors won't come off at all. I took my trusty rubber mallet to them and no amount of reasonable force will knock them loose. I've done lots of puck and rotor changes over the years, including on my 1999 JGC, but I've never had this much trouble getting the rotors off. IS there something I don't know about holding the rotors on on the 2003 models (2wd, by the way). Anybody got an idea how to get the things off? Perhaps just a more liberal application of force? I don't want to break anything that'll make it more expensive!
  • Ok, Jeep needs to do something about the rotors just like they have been doing for those with 2002 and on down... nothing has changed! Mine warped before 3000 miles the first time ,changed at 4000 miles, go figure. Less than 24,000 miles later new rotors again along with calipers. My dealership even tryed to tell me at under 4000 miles it must be the way I was breaking!!!!!! That would be almost laughable if I had not had so many other problems with this jeep. The sad thing is, I love it when its running as it should, but I havent encountered that in a long while. Good luck getting your rotors off- sorry I wasnt any help there... just venting after I read ANOTHER post about warped rotors.
  • Yea, I feel it under my feet and in the steering as well....Could this be the problem?
  • bowserbowser Posts: 3
    My 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Tsi (5.2L) recently started dumping coolant about as quickly as I could put it in. I looked as best as I could to identify the primary source of the leak and concluded that it was most likely the water pump. I replaced the water pump, all hoses, vacuum lines and started it up. The engine ran great, but the leak was now much worse and could clearly bee seen coming from a ruptured seal to the timing chain cover, right in back of the water pump.

    I went back in and replaced the timing chain cover seal but did nothing to the timing chain or distributor. I reassembled everything and went ahead and put on a new cap, rotor and set of plugs. When I tried starting it up it was missing horribly, flashed codes 11 and 12 and kept surging when trying to find the idle. I pulled the distributor and it looked to be aligned fine when at #1 TDC on the compression stroke.

    I gave up and took it to a Jeep dealer, giving them this whole story. They claimed it was the Crankshaft sensor so they replaced it and nothing improved. They said it had to be the timing chain or PCM. I got the car back from them and replaced the timing chain -- again no improvement. I have also replaced the Camshaft position sensor and checked all wires to both the Crankshaft position sensor and Camshaft position sensor. Everything checks out fine and the sensors appear to be working fine.

    Any ideas?? The car is undriveable because of how rough it runs. When I disconnect the Camshaft position sensor while it is running there is no difference in the rough idle at all -- for what that is worth.
  • urbaniteurbanite Posts: 2
    You might want to have the tie rod ends checked also. They make a clunking sound when turning when they start to go bad. If it turns out that that's the problem, you want to have it repaired right away. You don't want to lose your steering while going down the interstate. It should cost about a couple hundred to have fixed.
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