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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • reddog4reddog4 Posts: 2
    I was experiencing the same problem with my 1995 JGC. I have roughly 150K w/ a 4.0L, replaced most all the sensors and cleaned the throttle body. It did some good but it would continue to stall sporadically. I began to tug at the harness one afternoon and discovered that the engine would stall when I pulled on the wire harness connected to the PCM behind the overflow reservoir. I went to the junk yard and got a used PCM for $35. It hasn't stalled since and it runs much better on the highway.
  • raywi1raywi1 Posts: 4
    I have had similar problems but the condensate was entering through the firewall. The way the water was leaving the pipe allowed it to run down the pipe and back into the firewall. From there it is running under the floor boards until it stops under the right rear seat. The discharge tube is difficult to see but is in the box beam behind the shock well. There is a 2 inch hole through which you can see the drip. I used a couple of rubber groments and fit them over the end of the tube and slide them down about an inch. That stopped the back flow.
  • I just had the same thing happened to my 2005 Grand Cherokee Limited at 10K miles. Water was in the transmission. Haynes Jeep in Richmond, VA said it came from a hole in the top of the dipstick, and I knew that was a bunch of crap. Maybe if I drove it in a hurricane with the hood off. They know about the problem but don't want to admit it because it will affect new car sales if they get a bad reputation. The part about the tourque converter being on back order is true, I have no idea when I'm getting mine back. My advice is to stay away from Jeeps and Haynes Jeep in Richmond, VA. If you have to get one, buy the service plan that gives you a loaner car when yours is in for service because 2005 Jeeps do not have a loaner plan from the factory.
  • jdsemberjdsember Posts: 1
    I had the same problem-found that the antenna wire has an extension cable with a connector that was loose. Remove the right kick panel and check the antenna cable.
  • janzjanz Posts: 129
    The ERR message from the original poster was from the CD changer not changing out and playing discs, not the radio. Mine does the same thing.

    The research I've done on this is that 1) the unit needs cleaned as the laser is not reading the discs, or 2) the motor or drive that changes the discs in and out is the problem, possibly due to miss aligned gears. I've not tried anything yet.
  • diane7diane7 Posts: 6
    This all started about two weeks ago when my husband charged the a/c. It had been idling a little rough but after the a/c was charged it started stalling out and when I hit the gas to go it hesitates and will not accelerate and also there was a tapping sound on the floor when I did hit the gas. It happens at red lights or any time I have to stop. It seems to be getting progressively worse. It won't run good on the highway anymore. I don't know if the a/c is related at all, it might just be a coincedence. Also there is a bad whine/screetch when I hit the gas. My husband changed the serpentine belt and tightened it so I dont' know if that is part of it, but it's screeetching again and worse than before. I read on another website that the rough idle could be the IAC (idle air control) motor. Any suggestions? I would appreciate any help. I am scheduled to bring it to the dealer but they're booked until Tuesday. The hot weather has lots of cars breaking down unfortunately.
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    It sounds like there is an issue with the serpentine belt. The "screetching" is likely a loose belt. That belt probably also goes over the alternator pulley which may have an effect on the driveability of the vehicle.
  • diane7diane7 Posts: 6
    Yes. I'm thinking there is a deeper problem with the belt. Maybe something that won't let it stay tight. Thanks for the quick response!! This is a great site!

    Here's the latest: I drove it today for about 30 minutes without the a/c and it drove fine. It didn't do the idling thing or stall at all. The belt still screetched a little but not near as bad. Now I suspect an a/c related problem. Still scratching my head over this one.
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    Hmmmm, possibly a bad A/C compressor. It may be time to take it in to have it diagnosed. I don't believe you mentioned the year of the vehicle but it could be bad. The clutch does not engage when the A/C is not running (except in defrost when the A/C will run at times) so the fact that it does not screetch with the A/C off leads me to think the compressor may be bad.
    I'd try an independent A/C shop to see what they say.
  • diane7diane7 Posts: 6
    Very good! Thanks PaulE!! I'm just gonna have to sweat driving without a/c until Tuesday!! Will let you know what happens. Thanks again.
  • jeephappyjeephappy Posts: 2
    I test drove a car with loud noise, and was told it was a wheel bearing, and would be fixed.
    Then, it was the transfer case. Now, it has been seen and fixed by Jeep specialist, what else could have been wrong with it?
    It is a full time 4wd, automatic. I am due to accept delivery, and would appreciate info.
  • diane7diane7 Posts: 6
    My Jeep GC is a '93 by the way.
  • mstanleymstanley Posts: 2
    I have a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2 V8. Once you crank the engine, you have approx. 15 minutes of drive time or idle time before the engine shuts off. Then, after waiting for about 15 minutes off not touching anything, it starts back up and drives fine for 15 more minutes. I originally thought it was a fuel pump problem and replaced the pump. But the problem persisted. This time, during one of the "shut down" episodes, I checked for fire to the plug wires and "no fire". I also used starting fluid in the throttle body to make sure, it was not a fuel problem. There is not any warning signs when it shuts off. It just shuts off the motor as if using the key. When it starts back, it runs perfect. Any ideas what the problem could be. I have checked all the fluids to make sure a sensor was not shutting the engine of.

    Thanks,
    Mike...
  • mstoverinkmstoverink Posts: 22
    Just a shot in the dark, but I've heard of people having problems with the built in security system. I don't really know anything about it or what the symptoms are or even how to check it...but give it a search on this site see what it turns up. Also search google. Good luck.
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    Yep, it's "aged" enough that it could easily be the compressor.
    Good luck!
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    That could be a ton of things.

    I have a '98 and had to have the rear axle/wheel bearings replaced at around 100,000 miles.

    It basically was making a constant loud "hum" (for lack of a better term) that increased with increasing speed.

    It was more noticeable when the rear seats were folded down.
    Cost almost $900 at the dealer but has not reoccurred.

    That was really the only problem I had with my Jeep that I felt shouldn't have happened.
  • jeephappyjeephappy Posts: 2
    dear paule,
    thanks for your post. It is good to hear of someone with a problem free car. I am hoping to have a trouble free ownership.

    Warranties, are tricky as they are $2800 for 3 yrs/36k. I want to take my chances, but some of these post make it sound very risky!

    Is yours a FT/4WD?
  • 99 jeep grand cherokee. I have changed diff. fluid but still have a howl when driving
  • We have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 83,000 miles on it. Recently, we replaced the battery and the air filter. About 750 miles after we changed the air filter, the malfunction indicator light appeared. The handbook says it may be fuel or emissions related. My husband took it to the dealer and they said it has to be tested first ($75.00 minimum to diagnose) but the problem would probably cost around $200.00 to repair. Anyone else encountered this problem?
  • jdcimtsjdcimts Posts: 3
    I've recently had the water pump, thermostat and belt replaced in my 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo. The ac unit was working just fine but now it blows whatever kind of air that's on the outside, which lately, has been very hot. There is freon in the unit. Can/will anyone help me?
    Also, on a different note, when I open the driver door, it gives a pop sound. I've sprayed WD-40, still does the same thing, other than these two things. I love my Jeep!
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    My Jeep will have a different 4WD setup than your LTD. I have a 4.0L Laredo with the SelecTrac which is not full time 4WD.

    It is selectable but I do use the 4WD a fair amount. I have not had any 4WD related issues.

    Whether a warranty is worth it or not is always a gamble. I haven't even come close to putting $2800 into my Jeep in the 7 years I've owned it. It now has over 167,000 and is running strong.
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    If the vehicle is still running fine, I would drive it for a couple of weeks to see if the light goes out.
    A loose gas cap can turn on the light. If that's what it is, the light will go out after several drive cycles.
    The dealer sounds a little questionable. How can they possibly know how much it will cost to fix it before even diagnosing the problem?
  • j_man_dogj_man_dog Posts: 1
    i had the same problem with my 2001 JGC... but not quite the same story... this problem happened to me after a day of driving on the beach and getting stuck in about 4 ft of water for about an hour or so and water coming up to the bottom of the seats.... but i left it here in the florida sun for 2 weeks while gone on vacation.. when i got back i tried to start it up.. but nothing, it just clicked once and never tried to turn over or anything. come to find out my starter had gone bad. long story short, replaced the starter/solenoid (comes as a combo for JGC) and all my problems were solved. windows worked gauges worked air worked etc etc... hope this helps some .. the starter cost was around 170. but well worth the price to fix all those problems. :D
  • Hello,
    My daughter's GJC air conditioning blower motor is out. I checked the 40A blower motor fuse in the relay?/fuse box next to the battery. It ohmed out o.k. Where is the blower motor relay located? The only thing in the "box" that looked like it could be a possibility was the ASD or the TCM. One person posted a message on another GJC and said that the relay was under the battery (hopefully on an older model GJC).
    My daughter and I thank you for your advice!
  • copycatcopycat Posts: 1
    your problem is Crank position sensor
  • Hello,
    My '94 GC with Quadratrac is randomly displaying "Service 4WD Switch" on the VIC when driving on dry pavement. Does anyone know what this means? How hard it is to fix? or how much it will cost? Any input or experiences would be greatly appreciated.
    Thank You,
    Mark
  • pek1442pek1442 Posts: 3
    First, I'm sorry that you've had the problems with your 2005 GC. However, I would not consider buying anything other than a DiamlerChrysler product. It is very clear that there is more German engineering in all of their products as a result of probably one of the better car mergers in history. The fact that Jeep is now backed by without a doubt the worlds most prestigious auto maker means they will stand behind what they build. I have had mine since the day it came out in October 2004, I have 18,500 on the V6 Laredo. I haven't encountered any problems. It drives amazing, more like a car. You can thank that on German engineering. I just can't imagine some of the frustrations you claim to have had with DC customer service. I've had to deal with them when I had my stratus and they made sure my issues were resolved. It also isn't a wonder that GM and Ford are losing so much ground, do you hear DC in that same sentence? No because they are actually making money.
  • I'm not sure if you have the same problem I had with my 1999 Grand Cherokee, but the guage rising... then pegging out suddenly was nearly identical to my experience. In our case, the problem exhibited itself when we were sitting at stop lights on hot days, and running below 40 miles an hour on a hot day with a tail wind. Turned out to be the electric fan on the radiator. I diagnosed it by turning on the A/C, which forces the fan to run even if the car isn't hot. It didn't operated, so I took it to the shop for testing. They replaced the relay for the fan, which made the fan operate at the time, but a few weeks later it stopped working again. Same problem when stopped on hot days. Was ready to take it back to the shop for a fan replacement when a mechanic friend suggested that I check to make sure that the fan motor brushes hadn't worn down and weren't making contact any more. He told me the best way to find out was to whack the motor, which would free the brushes to extend. IT WORKED. Fan worked fine for two years. Had to do it again this week, and IT WORKED again. I know the fan should be replaced, and will do it. But being trapped in traffic with an overheated Jeep is no fun. I now carry a hammer and a pipe just in case.
  • I have a '99 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited. Something is draining my battery. Now they say it is my Alarm system, so after putting a new one in $350, the battery still drained. Now they disconnected my new alarm system and say that is my problem. I don't think so. Now I have a new Alarm system that isn't even connected and have no remote to open doors, etc. Anyone have similar problem, WHAT COULD POSSIBLY BE DRAINING MY BATTERY?? Help!!!!
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