Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

15354565859247

Comments

  • coop1coop1 Posts: 1
    We have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee. About 6 months ago we took it to a Jeep dealer in San Raphael, California who told us the rear differential needed to be fixed - they charged $2500. Now 6 months later, there's a problem with the front of the car, we took it back in and they said it's the front differential and will cost $3000 to fix. This seems ridiculous. They originally said they couldn't figure exactly what was wrong until they "opened up" that area which would probably cost about $900 in manual labor. The original estimate was if we let them open-up the car it should run about $1400 - $2000 total (including $900 diagnosing) to fix the differential. Then they came back with $3000. Are these guys completely ripping us off?? If we go through with the work, we will have put $5500 in work into this Jeep in the past 6 months - probably half of what the car is worth. Not sure what other options we have now that they've already "opened up" the car for $900.
  • cgivenscgivens Posts: 5
    The original message is #244 from wkilgore. The drain on my 96 model is not visible from the engine compartment (at least not to me). According to wkilgore the hose exits inside the box beam underneath on the 95 model. I need to be certain where it is before I drill or cut the firewall to find it.
  • mstoverinkmstoverink Posts: 22
    Is there anyone that would be able to email me a picture or direct me to a picture on the web that shows where this hose is at on/through the firewall. I just bought a 97 JGC and have this problem but cannot find this hose. Please help. My email is mstoverink@hotmail.com. Thanks in advance.
  • cgivenscgivens Posts: 5
    I also could use a picture that shows the location of the air conditioner drain hose on the 1996 JGC. A/C mechanics tell me that it runs between the firewall into a box beam under the car. A Jeep dealer told me that some models do not have a drain hose. Do not know who to believe. They all want $700 to $900 to find it for me. Anybody has a diagram? Please email it to me atd ccgivens2027@verizon.net
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,949
    If someone does have a diagram, it would be nice if they could post it using the pic posting instructions in the Forums Help link to the left. Then everyone with this issue could find it here in the future with a discussion search, and there would be fewer email addresses posted for the spam harvesters to find.

    Steve, Host
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    Sorry guys. I'm just going from my repair manual book and it covers '93 through '00 so it may be a '99-00 model that they're showing.

    Come to think of it I will see water draining out of my passenger side framerail when I run the air conditioner so it's quite possible it does exit into the framerail.

    Let me take a look tomorrow (too dark tonight) and I'll see if I can spot it using the repair manual as a reference.
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    Yes, they're ripping you off.

    I had all of the bearings (rear differential and axle) replaced for $850. They cut me a little bit of a deal since the company I work for buys Chrysler parts but not a $2000 deal!

    I'd either shop around or find an independent dealer. By the way, what is your complaint that caused you to bring it in in the first place?
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    The drain hose is to the outside of the framerail about 5" behind the shock absorber on the passenger side.

    Look in to your front wheelwell and you will see a hose that is about 10" long or so. If you can't see a hose right behind your shock, it's possible the hose came off which would explain the water dripping into the vehicle.

    The hose does NOT exit into the framerail as I posted earlier. It is outside the framerail. My vehicle is a '98 but I would think anything in the '93-'98 range would be the same.
  • mstoverinkmstoverink Posts: 22
    Hey thanks for the info. Is there any way you could post a picture or send one to my email (mstoverink@hotmail.com). Either way, thanks a lot.
  • glynisglynis Posts: 2
    I can't believe that as soon as I log on I find your message. I have been having the same problem. My jeep is an 88. It ran good for a year and the last 2 months it just stops running while I am doing 80. Sometimes when I am sitting at a stop light. My husband has tried figuring this out but can't.

    If I pump on the gas pedal while it is shutting down, I can get it going again, but not always. The battery is fine.

    Does anyone know why my car does this?

    Glynis
    glynisan@rogers.com :confuse:
  • glynisglynis Posts: 2
    This has been happening to my car as well. My husband thinks that it has to do with the fuel pump. He has been looking at the manual and now he says that this has something to do with the pressure.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    It is unwise to include your e-mail address in a posting. Edmunds.com is not immune from the spambots that harvest email addresses. It is better to make your address visible in your user profile if you wish to grant other members the ability to contact you.

    tidester, host
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    Let's see if this works. It works on my computer but let me know if you can see it.
    This is a picture looking into the right front wheelwell. The hose sticking down behind the shock absorber is the drain hose.
    Vehicle is a '98 GC Laredo.

    image
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    The fuel pump is directly related to the fuel pressure.

    Assuming the battery is fine, I would look at the fuel pump.

    Depending on how mechanically inclined you are, you can hook up a pressure gauge in line with the fuel line to see if you have adequate pressure. Fuel pressure for a '95 should be 37 to 41 psi at idle.

    On '95 and up models there is a test port on the fuel line that has a "tire valve" cap covering it. Attach the gauge to this port and record the value.

    The fuel pressure regulator on '95 and '96 models is part of the fuel pump module so you will have to replace the entire fuel pump module to fix it which requires dropping the fuel tank.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Fortunately, we cannot read files directly off your pc! Click on the "Forums Help" link in the left column of this page near the top to learn how to post pictures here. Basically, you need to find a host for your picture (your ISP may provide storage) then link to it in your message.

    tidester, host
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    That's what I thought would happen.

    I checked out the forums help and it basically says you have to link to a web address. I don't have the ability to do that so it looks like we're out of luck.

    It shouldn't be that big of a deal. Just look in the right front wheelwell and you should see the hose a little bit behind the shock.
  • gallagher05gallagher05 Posts: 15
    Hi nine76lori,
    Sorry it took me so long to respond. I too have a lawyer and I am currently sueing D/Chrysler... it's in arbitration right now, and could be there for quite some time, but I am not going away. They (the firm) feel I have a strong case. I didnt pay for a "used vehichle," which I have had better used cars w/out all the probs than I have had with my once new JGC. I contacted the BBB, and all they do is put your complaint on file along w/sending a copy to Daimler and the dealership. If you have a lawyer, then you can not utilize the Att. Generals Office. If a law firm feels you have a valid claim RE: the lemon law in your state, they will take your case pro bono, because they are fairly certain they can win something for you. Make sure you have copies of all your invoices, original purchase agreement w/warrenty etc... they will need all of that. It is a pain, but if D/C has to finally take true responsibilty its worth it. I would love to just trade this in right now, and be done w/it, but I wont because of the priciple of the matter. I will go all the way to court if they do not settle out of court with me. And, believe me I tried to get Daimler to work with me on at least 5 different occassions prior to filing suit, this was something I was trying to avoid. I read somewhere that dateline or one of the NBC news shows looks for stories RE: bad experiences with a manufacturer. Let me know if you contact a news media source.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,949
    I think you mean take the case on some sort of contingency basis; pro bono would mean the lawyers would waive any fees.

    Paule, if you want to email the pic to me, I can try to post it for you. My email is in my Profile (click the name to get to someone's Profile).

    Steve, Host
  • nukemenukeme Posts: 1
    I had problems with my 2000 GCL that sounds almost like your problems, it would hesitate going into gear and "clunk" sometimes. Believe it or not it was a simple fix. I changed the brakes. The brakes disengage the automatic trans. and when they are worn to down, it doesn't disengage properly. If someone would have to me this at the time I would have said they were crazy. I changed the brakes and the jeep shifts fine now. Give it a try brakes are cheaper than a new trans. Hope this helps.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,949
    We're testing some photo upload features, so this is a good chance to try it with Paule's drain hose pics:

    Steve, Host
Sign In or Register to comment.