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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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  • jpipjpip Posts: 1
    This posting was from a long time ago but I am having the same problem now on my 1994 JGC. I either get a fast idle or very slow idle followed by the check engine light. I have replaced both the O2 sensor and the MAP sensor but the problem returned after both attempts at a cure. I had one shop suggest that it could be an exhaust manifold leak. Did you ever find the problem causing the 02 sensor on your Jeep?
  • mtelseymtelsey Posts: 10
    my symptoms were typical tranny symptoms. one being when going into drive from say park, would hesitate. 2 being a vibration and roaring when trying to maintain a speed, like going over side guards on a highway. 3 being my information center came up w/ transmission over temp. i didn't notice a "staying in first gear", but i am sure that is probably another symptom. have you looked at the tranny fluid yourself? if they aren't checking for that, they are changing transmissions w/out fixing the original cause. if it is a milky color, like strawberry, it is the a/c leaking into the fluid, a tsb is out on it. all it takes is a simple seal. mine is back now, so far so good. they have had to flush the transmission 8 times, and finally all the symptoms went away. no new tranny or rebuilt one. only thing new was they put in a new torque converter, cuz chrysler told them too. had it back a couple days now, and so far so good. checked the fluid, still sparkly red, seems to be good, i am keeping my fingers crossed. again, the dealer i had treated me good, i am very impressed w/ them, it is chrysler that needs some work. for starters a recall on that a/c leaking into tranny fluid problem would be good...
  • dmvdmv Posts: 3
    Try a can of "BG" brand transmission reconditioner. My 95 GC had transmission slip at 125,000, and a can of BG was added and it has worked fine, now having 195,000 miles. Once I saw that this was going to work I then changed the fluid and filter and put in another can of BG. It has been flawless since then....
  • budtimebudtime Posts: 1
    so what was wrong your jeep
  • Well, to start off... here's what's not working. My windows won't work. My A/C won't kick on, but the fans blow. My lights don't come on when i use my keyless entry along with my horn not sounding. My overhead guage cluster including; gas mileage, miles to empty, elapsed time, and my temperature isn't working. Door chime along with my low fuel chime isn't working. The seatbelt light won't go off when i buckle my belt. My interior light dimmer isn't functioning. The interior lights don't come on when i use my keyless entry or open my doors. I'm living in FL with 90 degree heat and 90% humidity so this is making in miserable to drive my Jeep. I have resorted to opening my tailgate window and driving with my door cocked open. Anyway, this happened a few weeks ago and i havn't had the time to take it anywhere to get checked out, i really can't go a few days w/o my vehicle, along with not wanting to get screwed by the dealership or another mechanic. I've checked every fuse in my vehicle and they're all fine. I've found a possible short in the circuit that uses the #8 fuse under the dash... but i don't know where to go next or what to do.
  • So I decided to take on the task of replacing my condenser and everything was going well until it came to actually disconnecting the refridgerant lines. The system has been properly vented and I got the radiator out and everything else disconnected but just realized that I need a special tool to disconnect the refridgerant lines. Living in Italy there are no mechanics open on the weekends, and most places are closed during August for vacation. Does anyone know, is there any way to disconnect the refridgerant lines without using this spring lock tool?
  • japusjapus Posts: 2
    After 9 jeeps in 18 years I believe this is my last.. Only because of the manufacters inability to focus on a saftey problem....I do realize the brake rotors are warrenteed for 12000 miles or 1 year, however my opinion is this should not pertain to warpage, which is definately a defect in material... As of this posting my mileage is 32,500 ,after 13 months and 14000miles I did pay to have the original rotor's turned down, that cost me $100.00 at the time. I figured I would eat this and it would resolve the issue.. a few months later the wobbling came back and after contacting them Chrysler DID replace all my rotors as a goodwill gesture after the warranty period was over and I was at the time very pleased.. ..the replacement rotors have the very same problem that evolved with the original equipment, which I claim is and still is defective material... In approximately the same mileage the replacement rotors are doing the same as the original and when I brake going down a hill or even coming to a stop the jeeps front wheels wobbles back and forth creating a serious type of action in my opinion..
    The sevice people looked at it and they again sent me to chrysler...chrysler sent me back to the service dept where they checked the rotors and found therm warped....This cost me $30.00 Service contacted chrsler and told them ..they will do nothing...I contacted chrysler cust service and they told me in a nice way..TOUGH....NO I do not expect this or any other part or parts to last forever, although shouldnt an important item like a brake rotor last more than the allotted time???
    If this was a mechanical failure I could and would live with it..it isnt..it's a defect in whatever material has been used ...I have never needed linings replaced,on any of my nine jeeps, and never in all the years I have driven auto's ever needed drum's or rotor's turned down.
    I use my brakes sparingly , now and always have,,thats just the way i DRIVE..Comments will be appreciated because I am not finished with this, not certain on which way or where to go...I am moving on this...
  • Thanks, copycat. The problem did turn out to be the crank sensor. Most difficult thing to replace on a 5.2. Located on the rear bell housing behind the EGR tube. Like to never have figured out what type of bolt was holding it on. Jeep Dealer mechanic said he thougt it was 10 mm hex head. NOT TRUE. For all you that change out your crank sensor, it is a # 40 Torx head. 2 bolts. Hope this will help someone..
  • liz11liz11 Posts: 1
    I was wondering if they had solved the problem - apparently not. I have a 1999 Grand Cherokee and I have had the rotors turned 3 or 4 times and have had I believe 5 new sets of rotors and I only have 56,000 miles on the car. They simply can't fix it and won't admit there is a problem. They don't even turn the rotors anymore - they replace them.

    They tried accusing me of riding the brakes, living on a hill, etc. It is defective material and I honestly don't think they know how to fix it.

    I have done some research on other suv's and quite honestly, there are horror stories on just about everything. I was considering a Hyundai because of the warranty but it sounds like there is a reason for it!

    Other than the brakes, I love my jeep. It is sound, solid, no road noise, honestly a lot of car for the money. I've given up trying to get Jeep to admit there is a problem and will take it to a discount brake outfit from now on. As my brother-in-law pointed out to me, at least it gives you warning - the steering wheel starts to vibrate so I know it's time for new rotors. Better than a bad transmission which will strand you, or electrical systems that randomly open and close your doors, or any of the other stories about competition out there.

    I haven't heard of many other problems with the Jeeps so after looking up Hyundais, Kia's, Nissans, etc. I'll stick with my jeep with the bad rotors. At least I know I have a solid engine with real all wheel drive when I need it. I wont' take it to jeep anymore for the rotor replacement however, will start going to discount places as they can't do any worse than the 4,000 to 6,000 miles I'm getting out of the jeep rotors.

    If you decide to pursue, let me know.
  • mbsparkmbspark Posts: 1
    So Far I've had the same problems you are experiencing.

    I had to replace the Passenger window which broke and needed the whole assembly, my passenger heated seat no longer works. My radio does the same thing and resets itself but remembers the stations and where my cd's were playing. My CD-Changer gives me an error half the time. It will work after turning the radio on and off and changing discs about 20+ times. Brake rotors are messed up. For some reason it never remembers my mirror settings and always moves them back, and lastly, the heat and air conditioning regulator is messed up. Those are my major problems.

    The radio resetting is really screwing me up. When it first happened I saw that the ground ribbon underneath was frayed and no longer connected. I thought that was the problem and replaced it with a heavy guage ground wire that wouldn't fray easily with road dirt and vibrations. The problem happened again. I have no tried an aftermarket radio. Have you? I would be interested to see if that stops working, although I would hate to loose my cd-changer and steering wheel controls.
  • Hello,

    I had the same exact problem with a 200 Grand Cherokee Limitted. Cleaned and tested the IAC valve - no luck. Replaced the TPS and problem resolved.
  • you talk about a runaround. I just came back from local dealer. We just moved from Florida to Texas. Problem: Headlights come on at all times. Sitting in garage. Open the entrance door from house into garage and the 2000 JGC headlites come on. On road to Texas lights start flashing on and off and. When we got here in Texas, we were due for further service, so I called nearest dealer and explained the problem to his service rep telling him that only that morning looked out and headlights were on.Made an appointment for early am service and had to jump start (battery nearly new) to be there on time and then explained the problem to another service rep. This is a serious problem: You don't want to be driving down the interstate flashing your headlights and brake lights or road rage can come into the picture.I left the dealership confident they would find the problem.
    Here's what happened. We got a call the car was ready. Went over and ask what they found with the headlight problem.
    HERE IS EXACT COPY FROM THE SERVICE INVOICE.
    C HEADLIGHTS AND TAIL LIGHTS COME ON ALL BY THEMSELVES-ADVISE.
    TECHNICIANS REPLY: WHEN THE SWITCH FOR THE HEADLAMPS IS ON AUTO THIS MEANS THE LIGHT WILL COME ON BY THEMSELVES.
    I was really puzzled by this. I tried common sense reasoning with the rep. He replied" well you can leave it or I hate to replace a switch not knowing if that is the problem. So what do we as consumers do? There is a problem and the dealer should have called me and said " now tell us again about the problem--lets find the solution. Not that just turned the car loose. This is definitely a safety hazard and the manufacturer should give a solution. By the way. This is the WORST new bought vehicle I have ever owned and I have all the dealer records from new to prove it.
  • sk103bsk103b Posts: 1
    fellow jeep owner i feel your pain on the AC. I live in Dallas and it has been 100+ the last week, and my A/C went out the other day.
    Mine situation is a little different in that my fan will not even kick on. What did they tell you the problem was with yours??

    Any help would be appreciated, as i would like to bypass the repair shops!!!
  • its not the crank sensor don't bother, your ecm is no good, i went crazy looking for a reason for it and the problem itself is tied into the ecm, when the ecm wants it will emit a positive signal to the relays which will let you start the car, however it is intermittent, and don't bother changing anything, i changed my fuel pump, crank sensor, ignition coil, complete distributor. i ended up spending about 650-700 bucks before i realized it was the computer which cost 190 remanafactured. after i changed it i haven't had a problem since.
  • brig2brig2 Posts: 1
    Don't get the Ford Explorer XLT. If you look on their boards for problems, you will see A LOT of transmission problems since 2002 and still currently. Ford, apparently knows about this problem and has continued to ignore their customers. I have a 2002 Exp XLT and I have had nothing but problems since driving off the lot. From A/C to a back panel crack, to bearing problems, to transvers problems, to power window motor replacement, to seat belt and air bag mal functions which all needed to be replaced, AND I have had transmission problems for the last two years but was on extended warranty until recently. NOW is when FORD service department admits the problem. I thought I just received a lemon, but apparently there are hundreds more Ford customers with the exact same problems. I have been a loyal FORD customer for years (had four cars), and my family too since way way way back. However, we have all experienced really stressful problems in the millenium. This year we have ALL agreed, we are seeking another make and model which is why I am on this site now. So far, not too many JGC owners with transmission problems or real major or serious problems. You actually may have gotten a lemon. My problem is I have obviously purchased a rotten SUV from a company who used to have the majority of the market share. Just learned they are running close to dead last with Toyota first. AND I can understand why. The only good or great thing I can say about the EXP now is that it has the BEST roomy interior, and the interior parts last almost until the car dies with the exterior lasting almost as long. It's too bad they ignore the major trans problem. Makes me wonder if this is deliberate for more $$$ down the road in their pockets. Well, not mine anymore. Spending over 5K in total expenses for this 2002 was quite enough for me! My loyalty will go elsewhere. I have one family member who owns a JGC and has for the last and past 3 vehicles and she and her husband LOVE it. So I implore you to investigate further before settling on a FORD. And remember, this is from a "FORD built tough" (ha!) past LOYAL and defender of the company. I wish you and everyone else lots of luck with future auto purchases.
  • That sounds very similar to what i've been going thru with my 98 JGC Laredo 4.0! Windows wont work, A/C blows warm air, overheard gauge cluster giving false readings (apparently its always 100 degrees outside and i have 4000 miles to empty?), the dash gauges all shut off: no speedometer, tachometer, fuel level, oil pressure, engine temp, voltage meter. Its really a pain and i dont know what to do! All my fuses seem fine- wonder if there is a loose ground wire somewhere? Any thoughts on that? I'll have to check my fuse #8 under the dash- see if thats a problem...?
    Our jeeps seem to be ailing from the same malfunction- but what is it? I'll keep looking, let me know if you find anything as well! Thanks & Good Luck too!
  • Hi All,
    My 99 JGC Laredo seems to have foggy or some kind of filmy material on the inside of the headlight cases.It is present on both headlight units and it looks as if maybe condensation is present inside of them.Anyone else have any issues like this?If so could you please advise...is this going to be a costly repair,or is it just something that I could fix without a repair?Is it something a husband (non-mechanic) could fix or better not go that route.Please just don't let it be as pricey as it was to get those stupid warped rotors replaced,lol.
    Thanks in advance
  • jsmith6jsmith6 Posts: 2
    I simply cannot believe how poor of a product Jeep makes! When you pay 27K for a new vehicle, you think you would get a little time before things started to go wrong. Especially expensive things. I have never had a new vehicle with so many problems until I bought this 03 Grand Cherokee. Guys this is what I have decided to do- I'm going back to good old reliable Toyota (which is where I should have stayed).
    I also own a 1994 4-Runner with 240,000 miles. I have owned it for 10 years and it has been paid for for 5 years. It is still going strong. We use it to pull our boat every weekend as well as drive it for work during the week. Other than using a bit of oil now that it has so many miles, it has no problems.
    I think I will look into getting rid of the Jeep and getting another Toyota SUV. Good luck to all Jeep owners. Your gonna need it!!!!!!!
  • hi! i also have a 99 JGC and the same foggy/aged headlights. a friend of mine familiar with cars says it takes a special solution and elbow grease. he's in the process of finding out the exact name of the stuff. so...a lot cheaper than headlamp replacement. if someone doesn't reply before me with the name of that "magic" solution, i'll be sure to find out and repost...
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,298
    I think there are several brands of plastic lens polish out there. Here's one link I found:

    tomliv, "Honda Accord Owners: Problems & Solutions" #11297, 14 Jul 2005 12:28 am

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • Thx for the tips! And, I did hear back from my friend who has more information to share...

    "What my friends did for fogged headlamps was use a plastic polishing compound, I am not sure of the name, and some different levels of sandpapber grit to get it back to mostly stock. They did this on an Avenger and it looked almost new. They started with a coarser grit and then went to a finer one in either 3 or 4 steps. Starting at like 1220 grit then ending up at 2000 grit. It was mostly elbow grease."
  • Hey :)
    Do your headlights have condensation inside of them also? And,at the risk of looking really dumb...are you supposed to clean the outside or the inside of the headlight covers(when you are scrubbing them clean) Again,all my problems "look" like they are coming from the inside.I wonder if there is alot of dismantling involved if the cleaning needs to be done on the inside of the cover.Thanks for your help.
  • Thank you for the link Steve...again,as stated in my other post...not sure if cleaning the outside of headlight case(which I assume is what is being described in the Honda post) will fix my problem or if it is all coming from the inside of the headlight case.
  • Hello, I am new to this site, but I am having the EXACT same problems with the AC condenser leaking into transmission fluid. I hear that replacing the torque converter is not fixing it. Besides checking or resealing the tranny dipstick seal, What needs to be done with this problem. Are we all buying lemons? My 05 JGC was purchased brand spanking new! I only have 5000 miles on it. Does anybody have a clue as to what so many disappointed customers should do? I feel outraged that my first new car is already in the shop for the second time in three days and my rental isn't even paid for. My parents have an 04 JGC and a 94 JC and they run like a swiss watch. I would greatly appreciate any advice on who to talk to or how to handle this situation.
  • I advise you not to buy a 2001 JGC. I have one and it only has 25,000 miles and I to replace the brakes on it four times. The first three times the dealership covered the cost. The last one I had to pay $450.00 dollars. I was told by the dealership that the next brake job would cost me about $1,000.00 dollars because rotors, calipers and pads would have to be replaced. I only drive the vehicle to work and my vehicle is maintained the the dealership.
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    Buy aftermarket rotors and that's the last you'll have to touch them.
  • expert4expert4 Posts: 2
    1997 JGC stalls while driving,somtimes right after star-up.You never know when. Dealership has no answers (been in for check three times),check engine light does not come on. Car will usually start after. Help!!
  • expert4expert4 Posts: 2
    Have you found out what the problem is yet?
  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    OK all you JGC ac drain experts, I am looking for more repair ideas. I have drilled holes (in round area below "Y" and in main case above) to verify drain is clear and resealed them with rubber plugs. Tube going through the firewall is clear and wet inside. I have used silicone sealant several times around the area on the inside of the jeep where the drain exits. My passenger side footwell still fills up with water every time I use the AC. Driver side and rear foot wells remain dry. This is driving me crazy because everything else in the Jeep works great! I am not using coolant and this happens whether road conditions are wet or not. The only way to keep carpet dry is to never use ac, which is OK with me but not with my daughters!
  • It appears the 2005 Jeep GC with NAG1 (W5A580) transmission has a problem with water infiltration around the dipstick tube hole. Several people have written about this -- it may be detected when you see water in the trans fluid (white or strawberry froth instead of clear red) or when you notice a "shuddering" while shifting, esp. between 3d and 4th gears. In its worse case, if the trans fails, the vehicle may revert to "limp home" mode and only operate in 1st gear. This affects all 3.7 engined vehicles with this transmisison built before June 3, 2005. There is a TSB (Nr. 21-011-05A) on how the Dealer is supposed to fix this - it involves draining/purging the transmission and putting a sealant around the point that leaks water into the trans. See http://www.wkjeeps.com/tsb/tsb_2101105A.pdf for a copy of the TSB (this is from the WK Jeep site, www.wkjeeps.com, which is an excellent resource for 2005+ owners; see www.wjjeeps.com for 1999-2004 WJ Jeeps). Bottom line here is: 1) if it happens to you, make the dealer fix it right, according to the (rather complicated) TSB; 2) if it hasn't happened to you yet, make a dealer do the fix -- install RTV sealant around the base of the fill tube. It should cost almost nothing to put the sealant there... I am going to ask for it to be done when I take my Jeep in for 6,000 mile servicing next week...
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