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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair



  • jeephemijeephemi Posts: 7
    I've had my Jeep at Brigham-Gill where I bought it twice and Concord Jeep Chrysler. Both dealers do not know how to fix the problem, I was told yesterday by Concord Jeep that they called the Jeep Service Rep and are awaiting a call back. I called Chrysler and they said that they have not received any complaints about the Hemi Jeeps. I want the dealership to take back the vehicle and give me a 4.7. I am ready to file for the Lemon Law. I only had the Jeep for 2 months and hate to drive it. I find that by shifting it manually and never going over 3rd gear helps prevent the stutters. This is my seventh Jeep and will never buy another one.
  • I have a 2000 JGC with 95,000 miles. I just discoverd that the brake lights stop working if I turn on my head lights. I had trouble a couple of months ago with the left side and just kept replacing bulbs, problem seemed to stop. Last night I found the right side brake light was not working so I replaced a bulb. Today friends following behind me side I did not have any lights on the back at all. Can anyone advise me on this issue? Thanks,
    Lost Marbles
  • Replace the fuel filter, and check to make sure your oxygen sensors are good. I just fixed the problem in my car, it was getting so bad sometimes it would backfire and turn off.
  • jkramjkram Posts: 17
    I called Jeep myself complaining about my 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the Hemi. I studders, and bucks, and hesitates. I called a few times. They gave me a reference number and called my dealer. They know there is a problem absolutely. It is amazing the things they say to customers. I read on the Internet many people have complained to Jeep. Oh, they have not fixed mine.
  • I have a 96 JGC, 2wd, I've sort of fixed the death wobble. Steering Dampner must be changed. Also check your bushings man, Mine are completely worthless, and there is no rust. I have a feeling there are a LOT of disintegrated bushings out there. and finally...

    ALIGNMENT people, get one done by a shop that guarantees it for a while, so you can mess with the steering and get it done again and again, until you've solved the problem. Mine is almost completely fixed, it does it sometimes, you have to slow down hard to get it to stop shaking, but I still need to fix the bushings. Good luck
  • jeanettesjeanettes Posts: 1
    I have an 03 Grand Jerokee which was a pleasure for the first 40,000 miles. In the last 4 months, have needed a new battery and new tires (nothing so alarming there). However, also have just had an overheating problem, low coolant, one power window motor out and now I am told the rear axle is leaking. I paid a lot of $$ for an extended warranty which oddly enough seems to cover NOTHING that happens to this vehicle. I have been advised by my dealer to have the "small" leak fixed to the tune of $40-50, also not covered by extended warranty. Have been reading some messages here and am afraid this may be a sign of a larger problem waiting to happen. Should I unload the thing while it still runs??? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • I don't know what else to do

    new water pump, new oxygen sensors, new fuel filter, no codes on computer scan other than misfire.

    It happens when I'm stopping, and the revs go down. It sounds like the engine is choking from lack of fuel, sometimes it sounds like its drowing from too much fuel and I'll get a heavy gas smell. Please help guys, I dont know what else to do, and I just spent $400.00 on repairs.

    The engine will slow RPM's, drop RPM's, stutter, turn off. and then not let me turn it on for about a minute.

    The only other things I've heard on jeeps is the crank/cam shaft position sensor, and maybe the fuel pump. The car has always run extremely well, and I don't want to let it go. A non-professional opinion was a stuck lifter/valve or a stuck piston. Please help I hope it's none of the things mentioned last, but hopefully I was thinking it has to do with the fuel/air mix ratio and what controls it....which is I don't know what...

  • gdcgdc Posts: 2
    I have not recently replaced the head unit but will check these wires. Thanks.

    The latest on the situation is that I met with the head mechanic and he swore that it was the instrument cluster as he claimed that when the stalling occurred, he could "rap" the dash (near the cluster), my gauges would start to work and then the stalling went away. He would not give me a 100% guarantee that this was the problem but would give me a 99%...

    They replaced the cluster with a used one yesterday and guess what ... the problem is still there... the exact same problem. They claimed to have checked all of the wiring, connections, etc and found nothing.

    This is very depressing as the jeep is great outside of this issue (which is a big one).. Tomorrow, I'll be meeting with the service manager (again) and suggesting that they replace the BCM and PCM with both of these programmed to NOT enable the security system -- at Chrysler's expense.

    Thanks for your suggestions ...
  • saadiesaadie Posts: 2
    I'm having the same problem. I noticed when I locked the doors I would hear a funny noise near the tailgate lift. So pushing down on the door ledge while trying to open the latch worked for you? Mine will not open at all now. I'm going to try what you suggested to see if that works for me. What year is your Jeep? Mine is a 1999 Grand Cherokee limited. Have you had this problem looked at by a professional? I'm curious to see what they say is the problem. Was it easy to adjust the latch? How did you adjust it, all info is helpful because both me and my husband are mechanically challenged
  • gwdavis28gwdavis28 Posts: 1
    Yah I had the same problem, you need to get the hatch open and remove the rear panel.
    Then inside of the hatch door find the handle. Looking at the inside part of the door on the right-hand side you'll see a piece of threaded rod going thru a clip. It's a pretty cheesy design, but that is slipping. I fixed mine back in Jan and it's still holding, though I need to fix my wives. Though there's enough junk in there that I can't even get one of my kids to climb back there, hahahaha.

    Basically, you need to move the threaded rod more to the right, thus tightening the latch assembly. The hatch isn't opening because the latch assembly is too loose. It can't hurt to WD40 or 3 in 1 oil the mechanism while your in there. Test it out before you put the back panel back on. It helps if the hatch is all cleaned out, because if it doesn't open then you can grab the threaded rod and slide it to the left and the hatch will open.

    Hope this helps. Glenn |B)
  • jjr1282jjr1282 Posts: 1
    I wanted to ask you specific information about fixing the electrical fan. I am having a very similar problem that my car is overheating when idling, in traffic, or slow moving traffic. When cruising, enough air is cooling the engine down, but not when in slow speeds. I have noted that the electrical fan does not spin at all at increased temperatures which clearly leads me to believe my overheating is due to this. Before I bring it in to get fixed/replaced, i want to see if the fuse is busted, a cable isnt connected. Does anyone know where this fuse is, or what cables i might look for. Thanks.
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    The wires should be obvious. Look at the center of the fan blade and find the motor. There should be a wire harness coming out of the motor most likely with two wires. Trace the wire harness until you find the connector. Check the connector.
    The fuse will no doubt be in your fuse block. Look in your owner's manual and it will tell you where your fuse block is and which fuse you need to look at.
  • jeephemijeephemi Posts: 7
    I had a 2003 Grand Cheroke HO and had to replace the front rotors twice within 27,000 miles. I got rid of it a couple of months ago and got the 2005 Grand Cherokee with the Hemi. The problems I am having with it now makes me wish I had never bought another Jeep. I keep my Jeeps between 2-3 years. I would never keep one over 50,000 miles. My advise would be to get rid of it and never buy a Jeep product again.
  • eggin1eggin1 Posts: 1
    For some reason my jeep has started blowing heat no mater what I set the temp level. It also flashes er for a second on the display. If I pinch off my heater hose the cold air returns. Is there some type of door in the system stuck?
  • ashoreashore Posts: 1
    have you solved the problem, mine does the same thing, when it gets hot.

    codes are 201, 202, 207 and 208

    dealer is stumped
  • kchmbkchmb Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Grand Cherokee that is stalling when I come to a stop. It has 154K on it. The car will be fine when it is idling and driving, but if I let go of the gas pedal it will stall out. Any ideas?? Thanks!
  • jeepgirl4jeepgirl4 Posts: 1
  • reb6reb6 Posts: 1
    I have exactly the same problem. My car is in its 3rd trip to the jeep dealer. They can't find anything wrong with the sensors. The car stalls at stop signs when the transmission doesn't seem to disengage. It's like forgetting to push in the clutch with a manual transmission when you stop.
    The car also stalls on the highway -- just seems to quit. I start to pull over, and pump the gas pedal and it seems to come back to life.
    Any luck solving your problem? My dealer installed a new coil and wiring harness, but it didn't seem to help the problem.
    Could it be the main computer. Another shop mentioned this, but the jeep shop hasn't.
  • tomthumbtomthumb Posts: 1
    My '97 JGC has a transmission noise (sounds like I have studded tires on; but a bit louder) at speeds over 35; when I switch out of overdrive (light comes on on the dash) the noise stops.
    I can bring the noise back by pushing the gearshift lever a bit.
    Any suggestions?
  • naddinenaddine Posts: 1
    Help...when I turn off the power to the AC/Heater, the defrost fan starts blowing at High speed. This continues even AFTER the car has been turned off and the key has been removed. So far the only way I have been able to stop the fan from blowing is by removing a fuse from the large fuse box under the hood. However, the fuse must be replaced to start the car again, and then the fan will blow non-stop again. If the A/C in used while the car is running, it works properly, but when the power goes off, the defrost blower fan comes on again. Any ideas????
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