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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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  • Periodically this summer my 1995 Grand Cherokee would engage the security system. I would use the key in the tailgate to disengage the devise and drive on. Now I am in Baton Rouge on hurricane assignment and my wife is calling me telling me the Jeep is now constantly engaging the security system not allowing her to start the vehicle. While I know the Jeep misses me as much as my wife I am perplexed as to why the security engages. Is there an override? Has anyone else dealt with this problem and I am not referring to a mad spouse. The Jeep has almost 200,000 miles on it and has enjoyed the shelter of a garage, regular maintenance, etc. Any advice would be appreciated, Thank you.
  • My 88' cherokee won't move when I place it in drive a/t,it will if I shift it manually. This happened about 6 years ago and I paid almost $1000 for repair. A friend of a friend who works at a Jeep dealership,parts dept. said it was a $54.00 part,which,I don't remember? any one have this problem or heard of it ? I dont have a thousand to fix it anymore any help would be Greatly Appreciated
  • The "blend door problem" that many '01 LTD owners are experiencing is caused by the age of the parts. The blend doors on this model are made of plastic. Therefore, when you use the heater they heat up extremely fast, and once the heat is turned off cool down at a fast rate too. Moreover, since the parts are plastic and have fast heating/cooling rates the parts continue to expand over time and remain expanded-- wear and tear.
  • blkhemiblkhemi Posts: 1,717
    You've got the tailights out when brakes applied problem. They usually are on with headlights but go out when brake pedal pushed. The problem is the circuitry for the taillights, which calls for new ones to be installed because at the current time there is no fix for the circuit when it goes out. I had the same problem on my '02 Overland.

    I repeatedly changed out the bulb sockets but that only worked for a day. The lights are about $150 a pop at the dealer. I went to eBAY and got some clear taillights $68 for the set and they're better than OEM models because the internals are built better.
  • Most likely, your multi-function switch is the cause of the problem. This is the switch on the side of the steering column that turns the headlights on and off. You can have it replaced at a dealership, or you can just stop leaving the 'auto' feature on.
  • Our ' 02 JGC is coming off lease and we went to test drive a new JGC today. The dealer, of course is steering us to the leftover '05's and to be honest, we don't like it. We never got to see the '06 and were wondering if the design is the same as the '05. The few things we found that we didn't like was the gear shift. The salesman explained it was re-designed to be more like a stick shift. Neither one of us drives or wants to drive a stick and we both found the re-design annoying to have to keep shifting to be sure you are in drive.

    I found there were a lot of blind spots on this model, the most noticeable being the left side of the windshield. I found that handle jutted out so far it took up some windshield space so I found myself almost looking out the side window around it. Also, I thought the back seats were higher and I felt as though I were looking through a narrow space when I had to turn around to back our of a space.

    My husband thought the V6 had no power at all and right now we own a 2001 JGC and lease the 02 and both are V6 with plenty of power. When he complained about this the salesman pulled out a 2005 V8 and it did have more power but we were still not happy with the new changes.

    I also noticed the bench seat in the back was not as deep as our other two and the seats also felt harder and not as comfy as our older ones.

    The other change that I did not like was the knob you turn to change the side mirrors. I found it clumsy compared to the rocker switch on the older models.

    As I said, we were never shown the 2006 model so we are not sure if all these things are the same.

    Does anyone have either of thee models and if so, what is your opinion of them. Originally I was going to switch to the Liberty but we found it to be not as sturdy as the JGC. :confuse:

    Anything else we should be aware of. We are going to go back and take another look at a different dealer this time.

    Thanks for any help and opinions!
  • We have both a 2001 Grand Limited and a 2005 Grand Limited. Yes the seats are more firm more european like. We also have a Mercedes and prefer the firm support. The 05 is much more refine on the road. As far as the blind spots, this seems like a problem in many new designs. We ordered ours with backup sensors and they work great, you may wish to find one with this option. As far as problems, we have had zero. Our 05 has every option except for the rear DVD entertainment system which is really of no value in the Jeep. The engine is the 5.7 Hemi which has plenty of power and gets the same mileage as the 4.7 in our 2001. Both are good rides however I think the 05 is much more refine and a better cruiser on the highway. The 2001 was coming off lease and out bank took off $4000 on the buyout since they did not want it back. So I bought the 2001 for my daughter this 01 Limited with all options for $13,600. The 05 was a purchase since 48 month loan was such a great deal with rebates.

    The 05 and 06 are pretty much the same except they have added the Overland and SRT models.

    Last note -yes we do drive them off road in the mountains of Northern California. If you do not go off road then maybe you should consider the Lexus RX 330.

    Hope this helps.
  • Thank you for your reply and suggestion. We have been going back and forth trying to decide what to do. I guess we were just so surprised at the total change in the Jeep. We are thinking of going for another test drive and making our decision then.
  • I also have an 05 limited JGC. The blind spots are a problem in the beginning, but you learn to see around them. The seats will "break in". My drivers seat was hard at first, but it has molded since then. We have the 04 model as well but the 05 is the much smoother ride. The only problems thus far have been water infiltration to the transmission (see earlier posts). If you ask the dealer about this, they can easily fix the problem at no charge. I have a 4.7 V8 and it has plenty of power. The gas milage will be better than GMC or chevy too.
  • The brake light switch is located at the brake pedal, and works in relation to the pedal being pushed. This switch looks like a button(most times), that when activated, turns out your taillights, and turns on your brake lights.
    Now, JGC are very finnicky when it comes to tail light/ brake light/ back-up bulbs. Jeep has made it that you must replace these bulbs with factory equiptment, because only these bulbs have the correct resistances to the voltages required.

    I would first start with changing all your brake/tail light bulbs with factory replacments,(don't forget the third/high brake light), if that is not your problem, then replace the brake switch. If neithier one of these solves your problem, then a trip to the dealership is in order.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • You may have to change out the asd(automatic shutdown relay). The asd and fuel pump relay are located in the power distribution center in the engine compartment.
    The asd relay connects battery voltage to the fuel injectors and the ignition coil, while the fuel pump relay connects battery voltage to the fuel pump only. If the PCM senses there is no signal from the camshaft or crankshaft postion sensors, the PCM will de-energize both relays.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • to clear historical faults, hold the AC or the recirc button for 3 seconds. The faults have cleared when 2 horizontial bars appear in the display or do not appear after several on/off cycles of the ignition key.

    The dealership may have forgotten to connect the ambient ouside temperature sensor back up. This is located directly behind the front grille, and may just needs to be plugged back in. This is thier mistake, and you should make them clear the problem with your vehicle.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • It sounds like you need to adjust your shift linkage to your transfer case.

    Have a friend shift the lever in/out of different positions, so that you know which linkage it is that you want to adjust.
    Block/ckock your wheels so that you don't get run over. Shift the transfer case into neutral. Loosen the lock bolt in the selector rod trunnion.(This looks like a rod that can be ajusted forward or rearwards). Make sure that the transfer case is truly in neutral.(this can be done by being able to physically move the vehicle by hand backwards or forwards)adjust the trunnion as nessasary.
    Test drive the vehicle and verify that the transfer case is fully engaged in all 3 postions.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • 99gcl99gcl Posts: 1
    My heater has stopped working, and being in Canada -25 degrees celsius is not pleasant. I can feel heat coming, but whether its on low or high I have no fan. Blower motor perhaps? Any suggestions?
  • Check post #2324.
  • The blower motor is located under the glove compartment area of the dash, near the firewall. Always check your fuses, and relays that pertain to your blower motor, before you suspect the worst of the situation.
    Bend back the clip, and release the wiring harness, pulling it down for easier disconnection of the connector.
    Connect a jumper wire between motor ground terminal, and a good chassis ground. Connect a fused jumper wire from the positive battery post and the positive terminal tab on the blower side connector. If the motor now works, then remove the grounded jumper wire, and if the motor stops working, then check for bad ground, and retest. If the blower motor still doesn't work, the blower motor is faulty, and needs to be replaced. If the positive fused jumper wire blows the fuse, then the blower motor need to be replaced due to seizure of the motor itself.

    Replacing the blower motor is fairly easy. Take out the blower motor, and detach the retainer clip from the motor shaft.slip the fan off the old motor, mount it on the new one, install the retainer clip, and reintall the new motor.
    DONE. Wasn't that easy?

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • Check post #2324.
  • This problem that you are having sounds like that PCM has trouble codes stored into it's memory, and is affecting the security system's integrity. You need to have the vehicle taken to a dealership, and have them scan your vehicle for potential problems with sensors or wiring continuity. Also have them reset the vehicle's security system, and always pick the brains of the tech that is working on your vehicle, to aquire info about quick fixing your problems.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • Check post #2324
  • In my first few snow drives with my new Grand Cherokee, I've noticed a grinding noise from the front end when the front wheels start to slip? Is this just a limited slip front end? It's sounds a lot like the limited slip front end did in my Jetta turbo. I don't remember which Jeep term I have for the 4WD I have, but I have a V8 with the all wheel drive (no levers). Any info is appreciated.
  • My son changed the fuel pump relay on his jeep 4 cylinder with no help. He is starting to narrow down a bit on the symptoms. If the weather is warm out it starts fine. When the weather is cold out it will start fine if the jeep has been sitting for a while. When he runs the jeep till it reaches operating temperature and shuts it off it will not start for at least 20 to 30 minutes. It wont do this if the weather is warm (around 50 degrees F or greater) if it is colder temps outside is when he has problems. I saw the post on changing the ASD relay I am going to suggest he do that next. I also have done some reading on websites and have seen some talk about the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Is it likely that the CPS is getting flaky and being the problem?
  • I have had my Jeep Cherokee for about 2 years now.
    Here is my list of issues with this hunk of junk...
    * The radio has never worked, it comes on but all I hear is static....but you can listen to tapes-that is if you can find a place that sells casettes
    * It likes to stall while I am accelerating, just die like I turned the key off in the middle of driving and it becomes extremely hard to turn the wheel. But it would start right up again.
    * It gets worse- I am sure most of you already know - Then not only does it die while I am driving, but now it wants to die at practically every red light, every stop sign every other mile. But for some reason that is not an everyday thing, it is about twice a week.
    *One day it doesn't start at all, I get a new starter, Well it started again but that wasn't the problem, so I get a new battery as well because I had to get a jump occasionly to get it to start--No thats not it.
    *Now it is making awful noises while I am trying to drive it, it grinds and sometimes when I try to start it, it knocks wildly. And for the past week it wants to die about every ten minutes.
    -----These are the answers from mechanics---
    1. It is definitly the fuel pump
    2. Seems to me you have yourself an electrical problem
    3. Its gotta be your sensors, my wife has this problem too
    4. Driveshaft Bearing, its giving your sensors a bad readin'
    5. I think its your Ignition System or it could be the Ignition Coil.

    I guess now you know my little bit of info I would really love it if someone could give me an answer that is not a guess. I will NEVER have a Jeep again and if you have the money to get rid of it DO IT NOW!!!!!
  • does your check engine light come on during this fiasco??? i experience the same issues when it it my O2 sensor.

    good luck minus the radio that is
  • This very well may be the culprit, or mabey it is not....
    The crankshaft position sensor, and the camshaft position sensors work in conjuction with every other sensor in the vehicle to completely give the ECM all pertient data needed for optimum drivability in all conditions.

    If the service engine soon/engine light does not come on then, there may be a sensor(s) on it's way out. When the light does come on, then a sensor(s) need to be replaced.
    Spend the little amount of money, and take the vehicle to a jeep dealership to have them scan the jeep for any defective sensor(s). This takes the guess work out of changing sensor(s) that may, or may not be the problem. If, and when the dealership replaces any defective sensor(s), the scan tool also resets the On Board Diagonstics (OBD), which only a certified jeep OBD scan tool can do.

    I do suggest to many people that you do pick up a Haynes Repair Manual as this will tell you everything you need to know about anything to do with your vehicle.(available at most auto parts stores for about $20.00)

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • I have a 94 GC 4.0. I had the same problem until yesterday. It was only through exploration that I found the oil leak. It was coming from the oil filter adapter where it connects to the block. It was just a simple o-ring that had to be replaced. You can get the part from any auto parts store. It was under $2.00. Keep in mind that if your going to replace the large o-ring, you might as well replace the two smaller ones that are around the retaining bolt that holds the adapter in place. I'm sure they're just as cheap.
  • I'm experiencing higher than normal oil pressure as well as blow-by into my air filter. I presumed it was my pcv valve, but I've learned that my 94 GC doesn't have one that is standard. In fact, I heard that the PVC on the 4.0 is built into the valve cover. Is this true? If so, how do you clean/replace it? Please tell me it's an easy fix!
  • First of all, take your vehicle to a jeep dealership to have them scan the On Board Diagostics (OBD). This will let you know what your problem is, and how to go about fixing the problem. I, seeing this problem before, just quite not as bad, tend to lean towards the crankshaft, and/or the camshaft position sensors needing to be replaced. I cannot tell you what exactly the problem is, because i myself would be connecting a OBD scan tool to your vehicle and searching your sensors, as the dealership would.

    As for the radio, ask the dealership tech to check under your dash to see if your antenna wire is connected to your radio.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • 1994 GC are equipped with a CCV (crankcase ventilation) system which preforms the same function as the PVC (positive crankcase ventilation) system.This CCV uses a rubber fitting with a molded-in orfice that is pressed into a hole in the valve cover. The fitting is connected to the intake manifold by a plastic hose.
    With the engine idling, pull the CCV hose from the rubber grommet. Place your finger over the hose opening. If there is no vacuum, check for a plugged hose, manifold port, or valve. Take a paper clip and clean the orfice where the hose connects to on the valve cover (looks like a big rubber grommet), and push through any blockages that may be hindering operation. Change any parts that you may suspect are defective. Thats it. Done.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • I have also had that problem over the years. What I do is unlock the (outside)passenger door with the key, this shuts off the alarm. It never works in the drivers door. Now my problem is that the alarm will go off at odd times so what I do is, before I open the door to get out I hit the door lock button (on the driver's door). I then slide the lock back and get out, slide the lock forward to lock the door. This does not arm the alarm system. 93 jgc 145k ready to sell also a workhorse.
  • I have a 93 jgc 4.0 with 145k. The alarm goes off at odd times when it is armed (I currently don't arm it, pain in the but). Also, the VIC does not show any wheels lit (in 2wd or 4wd) and the 4wd does not appear to work. There is a vacuum line coming from the front gear housing that is not connected. According to the vac diagram, it should be connected with the speed control. Should I just tee off that and make the connection?? Thanks,
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