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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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  • gmfangmfan Posts: 188
    Steve12887- I used to own a JGC so I may be able to help you. When you say the vibration seems to occur on inclines, do you mean an incline while under some acceleration while cruising in overdrive gear? You say the vibration feels like the tire on a grooved surface...If this is what your are experiencing, this is probably a torque converter "shutter", and the problem can be fixed by doing a full transmission flush at the dealership. In my particular case, my tranny fluid needed service. Make sure you take it to a five star dealership and have them do a full flush, around $150. I would look at this service as a win/win, because you are servicing the tranny fluid and possibly fixing the problem. I am pretty confident this is your problem. Please let me know if this works for you!!!
  • blkhemiblkhemi Posts: 1,717
    I went recently to a 5-star Jeep dealer to inquire about getting the tranny flushed on my son's '01 Laredo with the I-6 in it.

    The service advisor told me that the service is around $150. What's included in the service is a complete flush BUT no filter replacement. When I asked about why not filter, he said that the way the do their flushes, it "cleans" the filter. I've never heard of this before and I wanted to get some info if any of you guys have had the service done or experienced the samething. It just seems a bit weird that the filter wouldn't be replaced.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,184
    This post may be of interest:

    amigo_john, "Isuzu Trooper" #8070, 30 Jun 2003 6:46 am

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • My boyfriend has a problem with the climate control vents being stuck in the defrost mode. No air coming through the rest of the dash vents. The knob still turns, but the other vents do not engage. I was told it a 10 hour job to fix. I find that hard to believe. Did he buy a :lemon: ? Any suggestions?
  • Thanks so much for the info. You sure seem to know alot about Jeeps. As for my recent post, it appears as if my skepticism sometimes gets the best of me. I do have one other question about the track bar, though. Because it looks like an easy swap, I've decided to give it a go by myself. The only troubling thing I see is that there may be some sort of "puller tool" needed to remove the bar where it connects to the frame. Do you have any idea what this tool is called or if it's really necessary? Any tips on the track bar replacement would be greatly appreciated. Merry Christmas/Happy Holidays to you and yours. Thanks again! ;)
  • blkhemiblkhemi Posts: 1,717
    Thanks once again for the help Steve. It seems like everyone I talk to tell me not to do a complete flush on the Jeep since it has 97K miles on it. I'm not sure what to do at this point.!.!. I might as well try the "few quart change" and filter and that might do some good.
  • I have a 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and am having 2 issues I can't seem to figure out. First issue is what sounds like a valve tap only when the engine is cool.. when it's heated to normal temp, it's fine. I've had this checked out and always comes back ok. The second issue is the Low Coolant sensor on the Info Display. For about 3 days now it's come on when I first start the vehicle up, but will go away(after I shut the vehicle off and start back up) when the vehicle reaches normal temp... any ideas??
  • Thank you for the help. I will try these ideas and let you know how I make out.
  • My sons cherokee was broken into dec. 26 and the glove box-light was left open and the battery died. He tried to jump start for about 20 minutes, still would not start. I came over and finally got it started but it ran Very rough and will not idle.
    2 Days before this happened I was driving his jeep and it stalled at a stop sign, but started right up again. He has not had any problems with it dying before.
    Does the alarm have a cut off switch and could this be the problem? How do I reset?
    He also just had a stereo installed 3 days prior. I read that new electronics could cause computer problems. Before I start replacing Fuel pumps,sensors etc...Maybe someone could help thanks.
  • I had the front/rear ends and transfer case as well as all U-joints checked out ..... no problem there. The transmission was flushed and a new filter .... the old fluid was black .... but now almost a week later and it's shifting well and no discoloration of the new fluid.

    Just a couple of days ago I had a small problem with the cooling system repaired at a shop (i'm on vacation and did not bring any tools) ... the mechanic id a Grand Cherokee fanatic ... he has 4 of them .... he pointed out that the noise I'm trying to eliminate is not coming from the transmission, but from a worn bearing in the AC compressor!!!

    When I get home in a couple of days, I'll replace that.

    This jeep runs great ... we drove aprox 500Km on a secondary hihgway ... losts of snow and ice .... the jeep not only handled very well, but was very comfortable and used about the same amount of fuel as our 4L YJ.
  • blkhemiblkhemi Posts: 1,717
    If your JGC is a 4.0L I-6 (6 cylinder), then what you hear as "piston slap" on cold starts is considered normal in the aging process of this motor. I've had the 4.0L in some shape or form since it's debut in 1987, and all have developed the tap.tap.tap.tap.tap.tap on cold starts, especially in the winter time. If you let it idle for about 2-3 minutes, it usually goes away. The problem is too much clearance between the piston and the ring, resulting in slap until the piston has expanded in the heating process. I wouldn't get alarmed about it as one of the 4.0L engines made it all the way to 245,000 miles before the crank gave out on it and it started the noises at about 65000 miles. The one thing I do on ALL of my Jeep motors is add synthetic oil instead of conventional. It costs about 2 bucks more per quart, but the benefit outweighs the extra cost.

    As for the low coolant warning, if your Jeep is full in both the resevior and the radiator, then it more than likely is the sensor that is located near the fill bottle area. Hope this helps
  • My '03 Overland is missing that little flap also. Not sure if these hi-tech cars need that flap. I do know that if gas cap is not installed correctly, ENGINE LIGHT comes on.
    chandler2
  • tmno8tmno8 Posts: 2
    I have been having similar problems with my 97 Laredo TSI. I had a new PCM installed (Like an idiot b/c the dealership said it had to be flashed) and it ran better, for about a week. Today it stalled out again, similarly to what it had been doing before. Could it be another module? BCM possibly?
  • The tool that you are wondering about is called picklefork balljoint seperator to remove the component.
    May i suggest that you buy the part from a parts store, or a steering and suspension outlet to save some money. Remember to always use the new nut(if supplied) and cotter pin that comes with the part. If the upper ballstud is diffucult to separate, then removing the 4 bolts that holds the frame rail bracket where the upper ballstud is in, may help you greatly.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • I just finished replacing the Track Bar, and, like you said, I did remove the frame rail bracket which made the job a lot easier. I also replaced the Oxygen sensor which immediately made a hell of a difference. If anyone who reads this post gets an oxygen sensor warning when you display your maintenance codes, just replace it. The difference is instantaneous and very noticeable. Thanks for all your help, Trickster. Your a great attribute to Edmunds.com.
  • The best way to find out how to reset the factory alarm for your vehicle is to phone the dealership, with your V.I.N # (located on your dashboard, driverside bottom of the windscreen), and ask them how it's done. Also ask for any recalls for you make and model.(as these are free repairs) ;) Mention to them about the stereo, and ask for any possible conflicts, and solutions.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • I just finished replacing the Track Bar, and, like you said, I did remove the frame rail bracket which made the job a lot easier. I also replaced the Oxygen sensor which immediately made a hell of a difference. If anyone who reads this post gets an oxygen sensor warning when you display your maintenance codes, just replace it. The difference is instantaneous and very noticeable. Thanks for all your help, Trickster. Your a great attribute to Edmunds.com.

    :blush: Your very welcome :blush:
    Happpy Holiday TO You And Your Loved Ones
  • Hi Steve12887 - we have a 2002 JGC - (and have had brake problems also - what's your story on that?) Anyway, we recently had problems with a vibration while going up an incline at high speed. Turns out it was missing on the 3rd & 6th cylindars and needed the valves adjusted (it cost $500) and so far so good.
  • gmfangmfan Posts: 188
    Why not do a drain and filter change first, then 7,500 miles later do a complete flush? I have heard about the "shock" effect a complete flush can have on a tranny that has not serviced regularly.
  • I have a 97 JGC Full time 4X4 and it has a nasty rattle coming from the back passenger side of the vehicle. I am actually stationed in Iraq right now with the Air Force so I'm affraid that's the best description I can give. My wife's Uncle was visiting and when he heard the noise he told her that it was "something about the differential." Unfortunately her Uncle is gone now...she's going to try to call him to get a little better idea of what he was talking about, but in the mean time I thought maybe someone here might know what's wrong with my Jeep. Any idea what it is? How to fix it? Cost? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
  • I have an 05 JGC with a 4.7L V8. The vehicle has a bad vibration while towing and going over 55MPH. I am only towing about 2000 pounds so I don't believe weight should be the issue. I have a suspicion that it may be due to the AWD system but would like to hear from others. :mad:
  • I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L with 54,000 miles. I'm having a problem with my Jeep's Idle. It has a very rough idle when in gear, but when in neutral or park it is smooth. I had a tune-up and fuel system cleaning about 8,000 miles ago and that never helped with the problem. About 1,000 miles ago, I had it at a dealership for them to fix my door locks under warranty and asked them about the idle problem. They said that they just idle rough. I'm not buying that because I know it did not idle like that new. I'm open to suggestions. Would a new fuel filter help? I have a Factory Service Manual (1000+ page). If anyone can help, please let me know. Thanks
  • I'm helping my mom get rid of her '95 Grand Cherokee and the stereo isn't working. It is the original Infinity Gold sound system and we're trying to find a replacement. My question is whether it will have to be another Infinity system with the 5-band EQ or will just any Jeep CD stereo from the same year/body style work?

    Thanks for any input!
  • c_chigc_chig Posts: 1
    While traveling home from visiting family during the holidays my grand cherokee broke down. The car starting sputtering and cut off. The vechile would crank up right after but as soon as I gave it gas it sputtered and cut off. I had it towed to a auto service center that was just right down the road. When it got to the auto service center it would not crank. The code the computer gave them said the coil was bad. They replaced the coil and it would crank, but as soon as you gave it gas it would still sputter. They then thought it was the cam or crank sensor and neither one of those worked either. They tested they fuel pressure and it is pumping at a good pressure. It also has plenty of gas. They are now thinking it has something to do with the PCM. Does anyone have a clue what this might be.
  • mcgmacmcgmac Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo V6. Drove it yesterday and last night and this afternoon on separate occasions with no problem then this evening it just started to stall while at idle. On the third or fourth stall, a yellow engine light came on in the shape of an engine block or transmission – the book says it is the engine & emissions light and I should service it…etc. The stall would occur during idle and when I was slowing at stoplight/sign. In addition, I was on the freeway with a few sputters and then, when accelerating, the car lurched and then sputtered big time. I checked all the fluids and everything looks good. I’m in Northern California which is getting a huge amount of rain over the last 5days, but otherwise have not had a problem with this car since buying it 48,000miles ago. Would really appreciate any ideas – I’ll likely have to take it to the dealer and the nearest one I don’t particularly like. Thanks for any help and happy new year!
  • A brake light is burnt out on my 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I have a new bulb, but I don't see an easy way of getting to the brake light socket. Can anyone help me on this?
  • Hello. Had to replace driver's side not long ago. Open rear door. There are two screws that secure the side of the light unit. However that's the easy part. I used a strong flashlight to peer into the vent that is part of the light fixture. What I found is the light is secured further by a ball fitted into a socket like device. The trick here is to shoot a little WD40 onto the ball fitting. Then as best you can grab the light fixture as evenly as possable and pull in a twisting fashion. Take care not to pull to far away from the jeep as the wiring harness my become streched. You can then access the light bulb.
  • Great help cdplayer! It worked just as you said, except I must have pulled too hard and the ball came out of the socket. It snapped right back in, tho, so no problem. I had seen the two screws, but knew they wouldn't make it that easy. Really needed your help. Thanks again.
  • trickstertrickster Posts: 113
    Sounds like you have a vacuum leak. Check to make sure that the throttle body bolts are tight, and that all your emission hoses are in good condition. Have your mechanic use a stethoscope or a piece of hose to listen for leaks as the vehicle is running.Also check to see if your CCV,(replaces the PVC on newer vehicles these days)is not plugged, or the hose to it is not plugged. Don't forget to check your spark plugs to see if they are worn or incorrectly gapped. One last thing, did the mechanic reset the trouble code with an OBD2(scan tool)? P.S unhooking the battery for awhile does nothing for Jeep products, they must be reset with an OBD2 tool.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • trickstertrickster Posts: 113
    Check both of your driveshafts for worn u-joints. Mabey one of your tires weights to help them balance out is missing, or one tire may be starting to separate on the face.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
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