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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • First you need to find out which transmission you have. It's could be the 46RE. If you have to, look on the left side of the tranny case. The numbers should be stamped into the case. You could call a Jeep dealer, but be ready to pay a good bit. AutoZone might be able to get one, but you most inexpensive option would be to call a few salvage yards in your area. The parts are even cheaper if you have to take them off, but there are very few of those types of salvage yards left. I hope this helps you out a little.
  • Hi, I have a JGC Laredo 2002 in which I installed a Bulldog Remote starter. After doing that, a few days later, the engine light turned on, I have the a hand size computer to analyze why the light came on, and it says that I have a Small Emission Control Leak. Any ideas?
    Thanks, Federico
  • My 94' GC Laredo must have gremlins. It goes off for no reason (usually at night)..the lights flash until it runs the battery dead. Everyone I've talked to says there is no way to disengage the factory alarm system. I'm now forced to take it to the dealer to have them hook it to the computer. I've read a lot of your posts and was wondering if anyone has any suggestions for this....they'd be greatly appreciated.
  • Trying this again in the hope I get a response. Recently stopped with my 99 JGC Ltd. to buy gas. In trying to re-start it the engine barely cranked over. After several attempts it did start however it seemed almost as though there was an electrical surcharge. Getting back on the highway I noticed ">no tach or speedo working. Has anyone else experienced this or can suggest what the problem/fix is. Thanks in advance to all who respond.
    Canuck905
  • I am getting a check engine light I put reader in the socket and get code PO320 Which reads: Ingnition/distributor Engine speed malfuntion inidcator?
    A pack ract got into the Engine and I feel chewed wires but not sure where to look. I also smell lots of strong catalatic converter unburned fuel smell? not sure belive it is that. And the engine will restart at times after it dies if I turn off the key. After it dies on the road and barely runs. A guy could get killed on a freeway with this kind of vehical response. Feel it is the computer shutting down the engine.
    Where do I look and what should I do?
    Thanks in Advance falcon
  • Drivers side passenger carpet soaked after recent rain storms. 1.5 inches of standing water - ONLY in front drivers side. Cleaned up and dried carpeting/matting underneath - only to recur w/ next storm (this is not the A/C drain problem on passenger side posted elsewhere).

    Anyone had/resolved this problem? Assume it's something to do with door rain seals or weather stripping - as firewall is dry under pedals/carpet. If no similar problems - can anyone direct me to procedure for replacing door seals, and where to purchase aftermarket replacements? Thanks.
  • I have a Jeep 2003 Grand Cherokee as well. I am having the same power steering noise. I called the dealer because I have the 84 month/70,000 mile warranty. They told me the power steering is NOT covered but their "parts and service" partner MAY be able to help. They recommend I bring it in so they can check it out. Wonder how much this will be!!!!
  • I have a 1994 Cherokee Sport and I've noticed the same thing: that hissing, whooshing sound. Seems to be coming from under the dash. Also, the brake pedal is very spongy with engine running (stiff pedal w/o engine on). I need to pump them to build pressure. I have bled the brake lines to ensure there is no air in the lines. I'm thinking the "sound" I hear is a sign of a prob w/ the master cylinder.
    Did you solve your prob? What was the solution?
  • We have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee and we hit something in the road that bent the crossmember under the jeep that connects to the transmission. We hit something where some road work was being done, it seemed to be like a big rock or something like that. That was the only damage done that we could see.

    After that the air bag light comes on and then goes off. There really in not a pattern to the light coming on and off. Is there an air bag sensor anywhere near this crossmember. We did have the crossmember replaced and the sub frame checked and everything thing looked ok. Just need to know if there is an air bag sensor in the area that could have been damaged or any other ideas on what this problem is.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Ken
  • trickstertrickster Posts: 113
    First of all i don't think it is your valve body at all.
    Check your power steering fluid to make sure it is topped up. Then take your serpintine belt off, and check all the pulleys that it runs on; tensioner,power steering, water pump,idler..ect. If any of them wiggle, then replace them. Also check when your engine is running for awhile, and warm, shut it down and check the water pump weep holes(there are two,one on top, and one on the bottom) to see if there is any coolant/water seeping out from there. If there is.. replace your water pump. One last thing to check is your altenator, see if the whine is coming from there, probably not unles your having voltage spike all the time.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • trickstertrickster Posts: 113
    The best sealant i've used in the past is grease, it seals the bead and creates an air/watertight seal letting in no water and salt.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • trickstertrickster Posts: 113
    There should be NO play in the bearing hub assembly at all.
    When looking for driveline parts... look at driveline part stores. :D

    Jeep has had soooooo many problems with their 2000 and up models when it comes to brakes. When they manufactured the rotors, they made them with a bad metal alloy mixture resulting in warped rotors, excessive brake pad heat...ect.ect. Swap your rotors out with after market ones and you should be fine from here on in.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • trickstertrickster Posts: 113
    You may also want to try this: have the tranny oil pan rust hole "brazed" closed. This will save you alot of hassel, and time, not mention money.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • trickstertrickster Posts: 113
    Check back(about a month) in the posts, there are some good posts about your alarm problems. One of them was about the plunger switch for the hood not depressing fully, and they fixed it by glueing a popsicle stick to the plunger to help it fully depress. This is what i remember about the post so please do not quote me on this. :surprise:

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • trickstertrickster Posts: 113
    Question: Are you getting a sevice engine soon/check engine light when the vehicle is running?
    This sound like your battery is dead, or is almost dead, or your altenator is on it's way out. Take the vehicle(if it will make it) to an auto parts store that will(free of charge, as most do) check your altenator and battery.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • trickstertrickster Posts: 113
    If indeed a rat had chewed some wires, and you do not know where they are, take the vehicle to a dealership, and have them deal with it. As for the unburned fuel smell....that is your evaporator canister filter plugged, and will have to be changed by a dealership, or someone Very compentent in what they are doing.

    As for your code p0320, my book read that you are getting no crank reference signal at PCM.... Change your crankshaft position sensor,or trace back the wiring to see if there is a open circuit(short).

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • trickstertrickster Posts: 113
    I really don't think this has anything to do with your door seals, unless you can hear the wind as if the window was open a crack, but wasn't, then yes, it;s your door seals. However i've run into this problem before, there is a rubber drain plug under your carpet below the driver's feet. In order to get to it, you must pull-up the carpet, there is no other way from underneath the vehicle...i've checked. This drain plug(there are several throughout every vehicle) is for that very reason..to drain the vehicle if any subsantial water gets into the vehicle. Unfortunatly this drain plug runs into the frame member of the underside of the vehicle, whick is why you cannot get to it from the underside. Re-plug it, and problem solved.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • trickstertrickster Posts: 113
    Check your fluid level, most power steering pumps whine when they are low on fluid. If that is not your problem, and indeed the power steering pump is in need of replacment, then get one from a auto parts store(if they carry them), or an auto wrecker. P.S. Alot of these JGC power steering pumps are inter-changable from year to year(they don't usually change the design of the pumps every year); the auto wrecker will know this(or should, if they are a compentent auto wrecker dealer).

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • 1993 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE
    Problem: I have had the speedometer cluster and speed sensor replaced by the dealership. And the speedometer needle is still bouncing all over the place. The tech at the dealership disconnected a wire from a (speed) module and the speedometer seem to work fine. But the "taillight out" alert would start flashing. When the wire was reconnected to the module the speedometer needle would start bouncing all over again while driving (the tech tried a new module no change in the speedometer bounce).
    Does anybody have a clue to what the problem could be or how I can fix this problem.
  • trickstertrickster Posts: 113
    This is not your master cylinder that is giving you grief, it is in fact your vacuum booster that is faulty.
    Brakes are a closed hydraulic system, whether if you have A.B.S, or not, which requires alot of PSI in order to work properly.

    When the vehicle is not running, the brake pedal is hard because there is no vacuum boost assist, and when you pump the brake pedal a couple of times, the brake pedal should stay in one spot when held down, and not slowly travel to the floor.If the pedal does travel to the floor, then you have a brake line leak somewhere. When the vehicle is running, the vacuum booster does just that: it assists in creating enough PSI in order for the system to work properly, in relative comfort to the driver/operator. Changing the vacuum booster is fairly easy, and straight forward. However, if you have any doubts as to the integrity of your braking system, have a qualified dealer double check the braking system. This is the system that stops your 2000lb vehicle from becoming a deadly weapon, DO NOT COMPRIMISE THIS SYSTEM.
    Also, do not take the brake lines off at the master cylinder, or you will have to "bench bleed" the master cylinder, and believe me when i say: you will not like that :cry: . The master cylinder and lines can stay intact, but you will have to unbolt the master cylinder from the booster, in order to remove the booster. Don't worry, this will not affect the hydraulic system at all.
    Before you do all this, check the vacuum hose that goes to the booster, and see if it has a leak at the fitting, or where it attaches to the intake manifold, and check to see if the hose is plugged.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • trickstertrickster Posts: 113
    There is an airbag module that(in most jeeps) is located under the center console just behind the emergency brake pull handle. CAUTION: Disconnect the battery, and wait 2 minutes before attemping any work, on or near airbags.
    Check the integrity of the wiring harness plug-in that goes to the airbag module, if all look fine then you will probably have to either have the module looked at by a dealership, or replace the module itself. Do not get a module from and auto wrecker, as you will have the same problem. Sometimes(depending on the model) an airbag module can be flashed(wiped clean), and rebooted with fresh programming.

    You will need to get this dealt with A.S.A.P, or your next drink of coffee while driving down the road, may come with a coffee cup and a pillow. :surprise:

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • Thank you, Trickster. I'll give the vacuum booster change-out this weedend. I'll let the forum know I make out.
  • trickstertrickster Posts: 113
    I would check to see if you have a corroded wire inside the sheathing of the wiring. To find this, pull back the wire loom that comes from the vehicle speed sensor,(located at the back of the transmission on a 2-wheel drive, or the tranfercase for a 4-wheel drive), and inspect the wiring for a tell-tale white spot indicating corroded wire(s) inside the sheathing; cut-out and replace as nessesary.

    The only other thing that i can possibly think of right now is: Did the service tech reset your trouble codes in your PCM when they replaced the VSS and instrument cluster?

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • I took my car and had it fixed. The throttle position sensor was bad. They replaced the sensor and cleaned out the area. They also found a loose ground wire that they secured. Now the car runs great. A world of difference. Total cost $185.00
  • Thanks, Trickster - There doesn't appear to be any noticeable wind noise, so your drain plug suggestion may help. I'll look and see if I can find the drain plug(s) you referenced.

    Just to clarify, you said the plugs are there to drain the vehicle. Are they normally "plugged" (i.e. "closed") and one must unplug them in order to drain the water out? If correct, that sounds like a good solution to emptying the water once it has entered the car - but my original problem still exists - identifying the source of the water and preventing it from occuring everytime it rains. Any suggestions????
  • Thanks, Trickster - There doesn't appear to be any noticeable wind noise, so your drain plug suggestion may help. I'll look and see if I can find the drain plug(s) you referenced.

    Just to clarify, you said the plugs are there to drain the vehicle. Are they normally "plugged" (i.e. "closed") and one must unplug them in order to drain the water out? If correct, that sounds like a good solution to emptying the water once it has entered the car - but my original problem still exists - identifying the source of the water and preventing it from occuring everytime it rains. Any suggestions????
  • thanks I'll look for size on tranny and I may have one its sitting in someones back yard hook to an motor just ten min down the street hope its the same.
  • I need to know where i should look to buy the one piece of trim behind my right front wheel for my 96 jeep grand cherokee.Its a dark piece of plastic that is missing.I just bought my jeep a few months ago and it looks like someone hit a big rock because the fender is bent so even if i did get the piece of trim that goes their i don't know that it will fit.What should i do?
  • Thanks for the reply Trickster. Had my suspicions re: the batt. and alt. but didn't want to waste $ on replacing the wrong item. It still amazes me that the two guages would quit all together though. Much appreciated.
    Canuck905
  • Hi - please pardon the question is this is a silly one. I have no experience of automatic transmissions being British and having never driven an auto previously other than rental cars. So. I am now the proud owner of a 1997 Grand Cherokee Laredo 5.2 with 140k miles.
    I would like to understand if my transmission is behaving correctly - if its behaving ok, but sounds worn, or if its doing something i need to worry about.
    So... it shifts properly up and down etc. When shifting from park to reverse, there's a small clunk initially. Similarly when shifting from reverse to drive. a small clunk. Is this ok? it feels like just some play somewhere. Equally. coming from drive to a stop at traffic lights. It seems not possible to bring it to a stop perfectly smoothly, there always seems to be this small clunk just before stopping. i don't think the problem is my heavy feet...
    Secondly. I'm in drive. The car is stationary. My foot is on the brake. I rev the engine. I hear a grating noise. Should i expect to? I don't think i should, but not really sure. I appreciate this is something i don't really need to do, but am just interested in whether this indicates a problem or the beginnings of a problem. other than that, am extremely pleased with my Jeep.
    Thanks in advance for any advice or help.
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