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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair



  • jeffbsgtjeffbsgt Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 JGC and my A/C is blowing hot air. When I first start it up the a/c blows cold. After 10 minutes or so the passenger side goes hot and not long after the drivers side does the same. It also occassionaly blows a fine mist out of the vent. Any ideas? I'd appreciate any and all help. Thanks.
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    You have one problem with your Jeep and you think Chrysler should give you a brand new vehicle instead of repairing it? What manufacturer in the world would do that?

    Yes, it's a bummer to have a problem on a new vehicle but you have to be reasonable. I can't believe you expect the dealer to give you your district manager's name.

    I'm sure you'll be one of those customers who jump from manufacturer to manufacturer until you find the perfect car. Good luck.
  • marleybarrmarleybarr Posts: 334
    I was thinking of purchasing a Jeep until coming across your post. Have you heard that the Limited has this specific problem? Sounds quite strange that Jeep won't put you in touch with the district manager! :cry:
  • ashesashes Posts: 1
    I'm Having the same problem with my older jeep grand cherokee. I can't get any radio stations to work. I'm just getting the err.....What is weird is that it was was working, then it wasn't, then it was, and now it's not again. Someone Please Help Me!
  • ggibsonggibson Posts: 2
    I posted here at the beginning of the month (post #1574) about my engine overheating. Since then, the rough idling has been worse, and the engine has cut out when coming to a stop sometimes. I brought it in to the dealer to get it diagnosed properly, and they gave me back a whole grocery list of things to fix! I have a feeling they're trying to fix a whole variety of things and don't know what's actually the main problem. Anyways, here's what is recommended to replace:

    Crankshaft position sensor (which I had replaced 25K ago) - $447
    Ignition coil (supposedly corroded) - $186
    Serpentine Belt (also replaced 25K ago), Water Pump, and Thermostat - $802
    Throttle Body - $140
    Spark Plugs, Distributor Cap, Rotor, Wires - $364
    Injectors - $150
    Shocks (starting to leak) - $408
    Steering Dampenor (starting to fail) - $206
    Powersteering Flush recommended - $160

    Total ~ $2865

    Ouch--that's half the value of my car, so it's a bit hard to swallow. Does anyone have any advice for me? The previous jeep dealer I brought my car to only charged me $193 to replace the Crankshaft position sensor, which is one reason I think they're trying to rip me off. Should I try a local mechanic for the work? Sorry if this isn't the right place for these questions. Thanks for any help!
  • gmijoe1gmijoe1 Posts: 3
    i have new tires, and they are fine. shocks are fine, all bushings are fine. i have no clue.
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    Couple of questions: How did the tires look that you replaced? Were they wearing evenly when you replaced them?
    Have you had an alignment done recently? My guess is it could be either an alignment or you lost a weight on one of your wheels that is causing the vibration in that particular speed range.
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    They are trying to rip you off. Not only do I highly doubt you would need to replace all of those components but the prices also look very high.
    I would definitely get a second opinion from an independent mechanic before throwing money at it.
    The one comment I would make is to have your shocks replaced if they are starting to leak to prevent also having to replace tires.
  • my 92 jeep cherokee makes an odd noise (sounds like an exaust leak) right under the car but only in the low gears and when i release the gas, could anyone tell me what this is or how to fix it? it would be much appreciated.
  • mstoverinkmstoverink Posts: 22
    I would agree...sounds like a rip off. Depending on the milage and when the last time things were done, I'd say a tune up wouldn't be a bad idea, and deffinately replace the shocks. The thermostat and water pump always seem to be at the top of the list of culprits when the engine overheats so that seems reasonable. But if you just replace the serp. belt 25k miles ago that should not need to be replace unless you took a knife to may need adjusting but not replacing. The prices seem high also, but that should be no surprise considering it's from the dealer. Absolutely talk to other local mechanics. I've always had good luck with non-chain (individually owned) shops. The individually owned places usually survive on word of mouth advertising so they have more to lose and (in my experience) usually give better service. Good luck.
  • reddog4reddog4 Posts: 2
    I was experiencing the same problem with my 1995 JGC. I have roughly 150K w/ a 4.0L, replaced most all the sensors and cleaned the throttle body. It did some good but it would continue to stall sporadically. I began to tug at the harness one afternoon and discovered that the engine would stall when I pulled on the wire harness connected to the PCM behind the overflow reservoir. I went to the junk yard and got a used PCM for $35. It hasn't stalled since and it runs much better on the highway.
  • raywi1raywi1 Posts: 4
    I have had similar problems but the condensate was entering through the firewall. The way the water was leaving the pipe allowed it to run down the pipe and back into the firewall. From there it is running under the floor boards until it stops under the right rear seat. The discharge tube is difficult to see but is in the box beam behind the shock well. There is a 2 inch hole through which you can see the drip. I used a couple of rubber groments and fit them over the end of the tube and slide them down about an inch. That stopped the back flow.
  • I just had the same thing happened to my 2005 Grand Cherokee Limited at 10K miles. Water was in the transmission. Haynes Jeep in Richmond, VA said it came from a hole in the top of the dipstick, and I knew that was a bunch of crap. Maybe if I drove it in a hurricane with the hood off. They know about the problem but don't want to admit it because it will affect new car sales if they get a bad reputation. The part about the tourque converter being on back order is true, I have no idea when I'm getting mine back. My advice is to stay away from Jeeps and Haynes Jeep in Richmond, VA. If you have to get one, buy the service plan that gives you a loaner car when yours is in for service because 2005 Jeeps do not have a loaner plan from the factory.
  • jdsemberjdsember Posts: 1
    I had the same problem-found that the antenna wire has an extension cable with a connector that was loose. Remove the right kick panel and check the antenna cable.
  • janzjanz Posts: 129
    The ERR message from the original poster was from the CD changer not changing out and playing discs, not the radio. Mine does the same thing.

    The research I've done on this is that 1) the unit needs cleaned as the laser is not reading the discs, or 2) the motor or drive that changes the discs in and out is the problem, possibly due to miss aligned gears. I've not tried anything yet.
  • diane7diane7 Posts: 6
    This all started about two weeks ago when my husband charged the a/c. It had been idling a little rough but after the a/c was charged it started stalling out and when I hit the gas to go it hesitates and will not accelerate and also there was a tapping sound on the floor when I did hit the gas. It happens at red lights or any time I have to stop. It seems to be getting progressively worse. It won't run good on the highway anymore. I don't know if the a/c is related at all, it might just be a coincedence. Also there is a bad whine/screetch when I hit the gas. My husband changed the serpentine belt and tightened it so I dont' know if that is part of it, but it's screeetching again and worse than before. I read on another website that the rough idle could be the IAC (idle air control) motor. Any suggestions? I would appreciate any help. I am scheduled to bring it to the dealer but they're booked until Tuesday. The hot weather has lots of cars breaking down unfortunately.
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    It sounds like there is an issue with the serpentine belt. The "screetching" is likely a loose belt. That belt probably also goes over the alternator pulley which may have an effect on the driveability of the vehicle.
  • diane7diane7 Posts: 6
    Yes. I'm thinking there is a deeper problem with the belt. Maybe something that won't let it stay tight. Thanks for the quick response!! This is a great site!

    Here's the latest: I drove it today for about 30 minutes without the a/c and it drove fine. It didn't do the idling thing or stall at all. The belt still screetched a little but not near as bad. Now I suspect an a/c related problem. Still scratching my head over this one.
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    Hmmmm, possibly a bad A/C compressor. It may be time to take it in to have it diagnosed. I don't believe you mentioned the year of the vehicle but it could be bad. The clutch does not engage when the A/C is not running (except in defrost when the A/C will run at times) so the fact that it does not screetch with the A/C off leads me to think the compressor may be bad.
    I'd try an independent A/C shop to see what they say.
  • diane7diane7 Posts: 6
    Very good! Thanks PaulE!! I'm just gonna have to sweat driving without a/c until Tuesday!! Will let you know what happens. Thanks again.
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