Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

18283858788165

Comments

  • thanks alot. that may have been the answer. i'll have to take a look tomorrow.
  • So here it goes . I have a 93 Grand cherokee and about 3 weeks ago it started bucking and backfireing after i got on it for about 1/2 mile to catch up with someone top speed was 60.
    After about 1 mile i had to slow down for someone to turn when i was able to go I hit gas (but not hard) and engine died and started bucking and backfireing,pulled off the road and turned off engine for 2 min. and started no problem. Happened a couple of times since took it to shop they replaced map sensor. It worked good for 3 weeks but came back again took back again they cant find anything So I need your HELP Sorry so long
  • 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee when you first start it i will not get above 1800 to 2000 rpms it will just spit and sputter.After being driven for about 15 min it is fine and changes great but even if i let it warm up for 10 to 15 minutes it still does it.
  • Hello folks.... I've posted here before about the slow takeoff... I purchased one of those scanner tools and it helped out quite a bit.. However, i am stuck with two codes that I cannot seem to find out how to fix.. They are 1762 and 1763 respectively... Now I do know it has something to so with the Govenor Pressure Sensor.. Now the next thing i need to do is find out where the hell it is located and how to fix it.. My Hayes manual unfortunately does not cover that part of the repair process.. What do i do guys and gals??????image
  • I've got a 01 Grand Cherokee with the same problem. It doesn't start smoking till after 10-15 minutes of driving.

    I've had the rotors and pads replaced and still have the problem.

    Just brought it back to the dealer (will cost me) to troubleshoot. I did make the comment about checking the axle seals. Will let you know how I make out.
  • Probably a naive question, but my 3.7 WK (2005 Grand Cherokee) has 4.5k miles on it and the tranny was just overhauled... Dealer believes it was a manufacturing defect (tranny recall done 3 weeks after I got car and there was definitely no water)... Tranny would bang into 3rd gear... First dealer I took it too actually said it was "normal"...

    Anyway, it is fixed and shifts fine. I'm curious about longevity. Is an overhauled tranny "as good as new"? In buying the WK my intent was to keep it till the wheels fall apart... But the Commander is sure looking nice these days... :confuse:

    Thanks!
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    I have a 2002 JGC and had heat on the driver side and air conditioning on the passenger side. I have duel climate control. I had a Jeep dealer fix it for $800.00. They replaced the actuator and housing. This was done 12/27/2005. Last night while driving 2/21/2006 it broke again. Cold air on passenger side and warm on driver side. Today I am calling Chrysler. I am tired of driving a freezing cold Jeep. I live in Northern Wisconsin. This is a problem on other JGC too. At mycarstats.com there are others with the same problem.
  • Remove the transmission oil pan and filter and you will see the governor pressure sensor near the rear band lever -opposite corner, with wiring coming from it. Easy enough to replace, but can be an expensive part. Good luck.
  • Hi, I have 1996 Jeep cherokee with 114 k miles. Recently it could not start. I suspected it was battery..but then it was not..I have to tow it to Mechanic. Now they have changed temperature sensor and throttle sensor..and flushed fuel system costing me 500$. After two days..again the vehicle did not start. I towed it back to them..This time they said they forgot to calibre the computer. After two days again it did not start. I have to tow it to them now..Any suggestions...what cud be wrong..I think I made mistake by buying A Jeep.
  • Ive got a 97 jeep grand cherokee, about 144,000 miles, ive had the check engine light come on a couple times in the past few months, one for a bad spark plug, and then a short in my O2 sensor before the catalytic converter. Ive just replaced my exhaust, and am faced with a new problem. When my sensor was acting up, and then i got it replaced hoping it would solve the problem. My car accelerates up to 30mph, after that, stops accelerating, but the engine seems to stall at a certain rpm, then i start hearing a clanking noise, and my car jerks a little bit before it starts to go again. Its weird because i cant easily explain it, sounds like someone tapping on my engine, my light is not on so i dunno what it is, and the auto store doesnt know, if anyone can give me advice on how to fix it, id appreciate it very much.
  • I have a '94 JGC. Its in great shape and runs fine. My problem is the drivers side headlight has a mind of its own. The bright doesn't work at all, and the low beam will occasionally decide to not work either. I haven't changed the bulb. Any suggestions?
  • I just bought a 1989 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer. It originally had the 2.5 fuel injected 4 liter engine...the gut I bought it from put a 2.8 carburated engine in it. Why is my 2.5 tranny not shifting properly or at all into 3rd and 4th gears? What can be my problem here? Maybe a vacuum problem or a computer problem? Or a tranny for a carburated engine to be put in it? Is there a way to bipass the censor from the carb to tranny? My local Jeep dealer said that this isn't even suposed to hook up, it's in no way possible. I find that hard to believe since I can drive it down the road. Any help or idea's would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • Check the connection at the rear of the headlight to see if maybe it's loose or has some debris in it and then try it. More than likely you need to change the bulb being that your high beam doesn't work at all. It's a good idea to change both headlights at the same time even if the other is fine. If you don't, you'll be able to tell the difference. Keep the good one as an emergency spare. Maybe this will help you out. - dixiecrawler
  • It sounds more like you have a transmission problem to me. Make sure that your fluid level is where it needs to be. While your at it, check the antifreeze in your radiator and make sure it doesn't look funny. I'm not sure, off the top of my head, if your model has a tranny cooler or not (inside the radiator), but I'd guess that it does. Sometimes the lines that are plumbed into the radiator will leak or rupture, causing an unhealthy fluid exchange. Tranny fluid doesn't cool engine blocks very well, neither will your transmission operate properly, or even last very long (few days if you're lucky) with antifreeze for fluid. If your fluids are fine, it could start to get complicated.
    - dixiecrawler
  • I checked my fluids and all is well. Yes it has line for a tranny cooler, but the fluid looks good. It started acting up ever since i replaced my o2 sensor, i dont know if that has anything to do with it, i dont know if its something electrical causing this, iam just out of ideas on what it could be.
  • I'm going to have to think some more about the problem you're having, but in the meantime, double check your O2 sensor's connection and make sure it's not loose. You could be right about the sensor having something to do with the problem. Since pretty much everything is run by the computer in today's vehicles, one little reading that the computer gets that is just a little off can seriously alter the performance for the worse. Anyway, double check that connection and let me know if that gets it. As soon as I get some more ideas I'll get back to you. If anyone else has the answer to this problem, feel free to let us know. Take it easy! - dixiecrawler
  • I was driving last night and 18minutes into my drive home the car stalled. I would push the gas pedal :mad: but the car would not accelerate. At that time i stopped the car and tried again and the car would accelerate and shift to 2nd with a little delay but it would not go on to any other shifts. I tried shifting manually from 1st to 2nd and then to Drive shift but I would not go to any other shifts. After accelerating and the car shifting to 2nd, as I pressed on the gas pedal the rpm increased to 4000 but the car would not shift and being 2nd shift I cant drive fast. what could be the problem... :confuse:
  • It could be either the input speed sensor or the output speed sensor. Is your check engine light on? If it is you can take it somewhere like Advance Auto Parts and they'll put a code reader on it for free and let you know what trouble codes your truck is giving. If the light isn't on the vehicle computer doesn't think anything is wrong, therefore it won't give you any trouble codes. This probably isn't it, but always check your fluids first. Sometimes this is the cause of the problem. If I think of anything else I'll let you know.
    - dixiecrawler
  • Depending on who rebuilt the tranny, if it's done thoroughly, they can last just as long as a new one, but they're alot cheaper. - dixiecrawler
  • evaddaveevaddave Posts: 156
    That happened to our '02 GC Ltd. They ended up replacing some electronic part in the transmission. I can't remember the details about it, but I do remember being glad that it was covered by the extended warranty (with a deductible, of course). Our Jeep had just gone out of the regular warranty.
  • Dan, I have the same exact problem, and after leaving the car with the dealer for 10 days, the answer is that this is normal!!!! the computer tries to run the engine very lean causing it to hesitate. On mine, it happens at low rpm 1200-1700 rpm I hope they come out with a patch for the computer. I find it to be a very uncomfortable experience, and hope Daimler Chrysler does something about it.
  • I have a 2006 JGC laredo.It's 3 months old.Have a noise cuming fron under the floor console.Dealer cannot find problem.Wondering if anyone else is having this problem.
  • Have your Jeep dealer check vacuum harness. I had similar problem which also can affect cruise control operation. All fixed now. FP number 55115900-AG VAC LINE 24028057
  • Noise issues in my '04 GC. "clicking/cracking noises from steering column and binding/vibrating from front drivetrain low speed sharp turns especially to left.
  • Just taking a stab at this one but it sounds like cv (constant velocity) joint problems. I'm not exactly sure how the front axel is on the 04's, but check behind the weel and find the axel. Near the back of the weel you should find a flexible rubber "boot" that covers the cv joint on your axel. The purpose of the cv boot is to hold grease in and around the joint for lubrication. If that boot tears and is not replaced quickly, the grease comes out and the metal on metal friction causes the joint to overheat and expand. Once that happens it will start popping, mainly when you turn that direction. In my experience the popping happens more often, or gets louder, when you're accelerating through the turn. If you find that the boot is torn you can get it replaced and repacked with grease at just about any mechanic. Unfortunately this will probably not stop the popping as the metal joint has been warped. The best way to stop the popping is to replace the axel...which, believe it or not, is not as expensive as you might think. Of course if the vehicle is still under warranty that shouldn't be an issue. Good luck, hope this helps. -Mark
  • the connection is good between the O2 sensor, i know its probably a sensor acting up, i just dont know which one, or if its the wire connecting the sensor to the OBD computer.
  • rth54rth54 Posts: 5
    My 96 jgc did the same thing. Had difficulty starting on several occasions then finally refused to start at all. Turned out to be the fuel pump located in the gas tank. Cost over $700 to get the job done. That was 2 years ago and haven't had any problems with it since. Good Luck. rth54
  • I have a 1999 Jeep GC. I have a leak in the line that sends windshield wiper fluid to the windshield. I can see where the leak is but cannot get to it to repair. Best that I can tell, I need to remove the windshield wipers to get the plastic covering off so that I can get to the "innards". I've removed the top bolt on the WW but the wiper will not come off. Is there a trick to this or do I need to remove something else? Anybody got an idea?
  • I haven't removed the wipers on my 2000 GC before, but it looks like after you have removed the bolt (I'm assuming you're talking about the bolt the arm pivots on) the wiper arm assembly should pull right off. If it's stuck don't try to pry it off with anything, because you could damage the arm or linkage. You could try a battery terminal puller. It should be about the right size. If you don't have one, Auto Zone will "loan" tools if you leave a deposit. If there isn't an Auto Zone near you, maybe there are other parts stores near you that will do the same. Let me know if this works for you.
    -dixiecrawler
  • ricornricorn Posts: 2
    The lens on my (driver's side) front corner light (side marker) is broken and the headlight has also got a little loose ('95 JGC). I can't find the screws that secure the light assembly so that I can replace the corner light and tighten the headlight. Would appreciate any suggestions.
    Thanks,
    Sonny
Sign In or Register to comment.