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Hyundai Santa Fe Maintenance and Repair (2006 and earlier)

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Comments

  • 1234693112346931 Posts: 17
    See msg #1339 on this forum. The "buck" you describe, sounds like the problem I had with my SF. There is a TSB on the problem TSB #044007. sounds like you are haveing the same problem with the dalership, as I had with my dealership, until I went to a different dealership. Rich
  • joblackjoblack Posts: 11
    My engine light recently came on when driving my Santa Fe. The car showed no other sign of malfunction, although I did mention to the service people that I thought I heard a slight ticking noise while stopped at a light a few months ago, but I honestly was not sure if I was really hearing something or not. The car has not given me any trouble whatsoever. The light turned out to be a sensor and was fixed under warranty. The service people then wanted to change my timing belt "because I was approaching my 60,000 mark. I told them that I would change it, but not at the dealership. Of course, they called me back several hours later to tell me that they needed more time to look into the noise coming from my engine. I told them that I really didn't think that I had a problem and that the car was working fine. They then questioned me as to whether I have been keeping up with the oil changes because they don't have it in their records?! He then went on to tell me that if I didn't produce receipts my warranty would be void and any future engine work would not be covered. What a surprise??! The truth is that I have kept up with the maintenance and oil changes, but I may not be able to produce all of the receipts. Has anyone had anything similar happen to them in regard to warranties because I didn't keep them all and because my mechanic does not keep his records in a computer? I honestly feel that they are trying to take advantage of me.
  • jcspohrjcspohr Posts: 97
    Sounds like they are guessing and then assuming that it is an oil failure related cause. Make them prove their assumption and put the burden of proof on them.

    Good luck,

    JCS
  • joblackjoblack Posts: 11
    Thanks. Since the car was in for the engine light, I think they know exactly what is wrong with the car. They told me that I will be asked to give them $200 upfront if I bring it back to them, so that they can look into it further. I would then be asked to produce my receipts if there was a problem. Depending on whether or not I had proof, they would either ask for more money to fix the problem or give me some money back. Wouldn't they put my car on the computer to find out the answer to both of these problems? My mechanic suspects it is a valve and suggests I live with it because it would not be dangerous.
  • nifty56nifty56 Posts: 279
    What year is the vehicle and what engine size? For others that post please identify what you have.
  • jcspohrjcspohr Posts: 97
    I still think they are guessing based on your reply about them looking into it further. They are trying to shift the burden of proof to you so you'll go away.

    Alternatives:

    1. Take it to Autozone and have them read the diagnostic code. They will do it at no charge and only takes a minute.

    2. Take it to another dealer.

    Best of luck,

    JCS
  • joblackjoblack Posts: 11
    What is Autozone?
  • jcspohrjcspohr Posts: 97
    A national discount auto parts chain in the U.S.. If you don't have one near you, try a similar chain that is local to you. Others that come to mind are Oreilly Autoparts and Advance Autoparts.

    Here're some store locator links:

    http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=ST001&UserAction=displayStoreLo- cator

    http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/FindAStore.do

    http://advanceauto.know-where.com/advance-auto-parts/

    BTW - Where are you located?

    JCS
  • bw3bw3 Posts: 2
    Has anyone had the problem with a shudder seeming to come from the rear end of their Santa Fe?
    I get a extremely hard shudder at 37-40 mph and it shakes the entire car. Two dealers had different ideas... balance tires, oil seal, road force balance, lower front ball joints, but nothing stops it from happening. Not all the time, but often enough to require attention.
    Now I'm going to Conrads to have the tiers rotated and re-balanced.
    bw3
  • jcspohrjcspohr Posts: 97
    I would suggest getting a Four-wheel alignment. Not just front, but all four wheels. When you have that performed you will be assured that everything is set correctly and within proper wear tolerances.

    For example, I noticed my Ford Taurus (with only 15,xxx miles) was pulling to the right and exhibited vibration/shudder around 70 mph. I took it in for an alignment and the dealer informed me that there was excessive wear (slop, looseness, whatever you wan to call it) in a lower ball joint to perform the alignment. I had both lowers replaced and re-aligned and the dealers expense (warranty).

    Also check for uneven tire wear. They'll do some strange things if the alignment is out and wear the tires unevenly.

    Good luck,

    JCS
  • I own a 2003 Santa Fe with 56,000 miles. I recently noticed that the lights on the speedo (only) flicker.
    I took it to the dealer and was told that the alternator was going bad & it would be replaced under the warranty.
    It was replaced & I picked up the truck.
    That night I noticed that the lights in the speedo only,
    was doing the same thing.
    I checked under the hood to see if the alternator was changed & it was. The only lights that ever flickered was the dash lights, not the headlights, radio etc.
    Has any one experienced this problem?
    If so please let me know what you did to correct the problem.
    Thanks-SURVIVOR93 :confuse:
  • Sounds like either a loose dash light bulb or a bad ground wire.
  • Thanks for your help. I am wondering thoug, would
    this happen even when the car is standing still at an idle? :confuse:
  • jcspohrjcspohr Posts: 97
    Yes - even at idle. Anytime the ignition is on. The engine vibrations will make it more apparent.

    Check your main positive cable on the battery. Our mini-van had a small secondary wire off the main terminal that corroded and caused some very strange and erratic behavior with our dash lights. Replaced the cable end and resolved the problem. It did take me a while to figure it out though.

    JCS
  • jcs..thanks for your help.
    i will try it tomorrow..survivor93 :)
  • bw3bw3 Posts: 2
    Thanks for the help.
    I had the dealer do an alignment to all wheels. Lower, front ball joints were replaced and a complete wheel balance with what the local dealer called a "Radial force balance". $100 and it made the front shake so severely at ~60 mph I had to go to my local Conrad's and have it re-balanced (smooth now) as I have to go 45 miles to the dealer.
    The Radial force balance was a joke... I called and requested my money back. I'll let you know if they pay as they said they would.
    Needless to say, I still have the intermittent rumble from the rear end area. ~35 to 40 mph and it shakes the entire Santa Fe. If I hold that speed it will continue to vibrate, maybe for a minute and then go away.
    I think it's coming from the drive train. Lots of oil present at differential, but everyone thinks wheels, etc.
    The hard part is to get it to do it for the tech. They just drive it. The 1st tech drove at 65 (after I told them it only does it at ~35) and noticed a vibration so he rotated the front wheels... not noticing the front lower ball joints were bad 'duh':(( not all service people are pros.
    No one can find the problem yet. All the obvious has been done several times (thanks to Conrad's for the correct wheel balance) I have another appointment on Aug 31 for another try with the shotgun... the only problem is I'm at 96600 miles with the Hyundai 100K warranty. The dealer said if I go over that repaired or not, I pay at 100,001.
  • jcspohrjcspohr Posts: 97
    bw3,

    Sorry to hear that it's not resolved. Looking on the bright side, you know what it is not. Sometimes trouble shooting comes down to the process of elimination.

    Since the wheels are balanced properly:

    Have the front and rear wheels been rotated front to back? That would eliminate the cause being a wheel.

    Considering your comment about oil leakage, mileage and warranty expiration, I would take it to the dealer and have them open up and inspect the rear differential.

    You might also investigate the lemon laws for your state. You might have a course of action there if you have had it in to dealer for repairs and meet the criteria.

    Cover Your Assets as they say.

    Good luck,

    JCS
  • Is this a 4-wheel drive Santa Fe? Is so, a drive shaft balance issue might be the cause. The presence of oil suggests a seal leak/failure somewhere, which could indicate a bad wheel bearing/axle bearing (is so equiped, I am not THAT up-to-date on the workings of the Santa Fe drive train/suspension). I bring this up since, as someone already pointed out, the obvious causes have been proven not to be the cause.

    Good luck
  • the dealer inspected , and did not find the problem, i am living with it.

    recently when I just pick up after full stop, just at very low speed( almost zero), a "dung" sound is always there.
    and after that, everything ok, anyone have same experience? is that the normal or problem with driving train or brake or 4x4 system ? thanks.
  • Has anyone had a problem with a valve in the engine? If so, how expensive is this to get fixed? Thanks
  • Thanks chrisducati. SF on the way for a check with the dealer on Thursday.
    D
  • Juls:

    Wondering how your sistuation worked out. Minie is similar. 2002 Sanata Fe, when I hit the remote it makes a "noise" but does not actually unlock, I have to use the key to open the hatch.

    Anyone has a smiliar problem, or done a self repair? I'm well out of bumper to bumper due to milage. 110K+

    d.
  • Pay the dealer with Mastercard or VISA. If the work is substandard, write the credit card company explaining the issue. They will force the dealer (or any retailer accepting their cards) to either do the work correctly or refund your money. The credit card companies have a lot more clout than an individual customer!!!

    Joe in Texarkana
  • I had a whistle also, on my '07 Santa Fe. I found that it was caused by the wind passing through the space between the bottom of the mirror and the mounting bracket. I fixed it by inserting a piece of velcro (the smooth side) between the mirror and the bracket. I used a toothpick to push it into this tight space. Whistling noise was eliminated.
  • I had problems with my Santa Fe 3.5L starting hard. After it would start it would run very rough. This was not after a gas fill up. If your problem is only after gas refills you should investigate this that I found on another website:
    Your purge control valve is probably stuck open. Under normal operation, the ECM (Engine Control Module) opens and closes this valve when you're driving to burn off excess fuel vapors. If it's stuck open, the a large amount of vapors will be pushed out of the tank and into the engine when you fuel, causing the engine to be flooded.

    My solution which has been working great for a week is to replace the fuel pressure sensor. The box is labelled:
    35301 37100
    Regulator- Delivery pipe press(ure)
    $35 to $55

    This is a do it yourself project that will take about 15 minutes.
    -Remove the plastic engine cover (6 10mm bolts)
    -Disconnect the 1,3,5 spark plug leads from the distributor cap (they are going to the back engine spark plugs) and from the two guides.
    -When looking at the engine to the right between the two (front and rear) intake manifold ports is a 1/2" black fuel line that leads to the pressure sensor. Another way to locate the sensor is to look for a black 1/4" vacuum pressure line coming from the rear intake manifold port. A third location tip is just before the second spark plug wire guide (moving away from the distributor).
    -It is recommended to remove the fuel pump pressure relay and run the engine until it quits to remove the fuel pressure. I was unable to locate this so I put a rag under the pressure sensor and SLOWLY loosened the bolts.
    -When removing the 2 10mm bolts that hold the pressure sensor in be VERY careful not to drop the lower bolt. To help locate the sensor, the bolts are going into the right side of the intake manifold. The bolts are not pointed toward you.
    -Again, I slowly loosened the bolts and wiggled the sensor to let the pressure release prior to fully removing the bolts. The fuel will be coming from the manifold, not the fuel line.
    -Re-attach the fuel line and vacuum pressure lines to the new sensor. Replacement of the fuel line and vacuum line was not required on my vehicle.

    I would highly recommend if you have an air compressor that you blow A LOT of air in the area where the gasoline may have fallen to vent the fumes and remove the gasoline prior to engine start.

    The first engine start will be a little hard since the fuel pressure must be re-established.

    I am not a mechanic, just a guy happy to save $75 in labor costs.
  • When I bring my car in to the dealership to have them look into a problem, should I be charged $100 to have the car put on the computer? My car is still under warranty. Thanks
  • The engine light recently came on my Santa Fe. The dealership told me it was a bad sensor and fixed it under warranty. Now, there is a loud noise coming out of the front end and the car feels as though it is dragging. I have 59,000+ miles on the car. Any idea what this could be? Thanks
  • I won two Key Fob Remotes on eBay and need to know how to program them for my vehicle.

    Anyone know how? Or where to find the instructions?

    Thanks,

    JCS
  • I've been hearing a ticking noise in my front end. Aside from the occasional noise, the car is working fine. I've been told it is the buckets. Can someone tell me what that is? Thanks
  • they r seperate............how did u fix ur oil leak in ur transfer case ?
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