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Hyundai Santa Fe Maintenance and Repair (2006 and earlier)

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Comments

  • While I live in the midwest, and we don't have mountains, I do drive fast but I also anticipate braking for lights, stops etc.

    That said, I believe there is most likely a problem with your brakes, to have them wear out at 27,000 miles under NORMAL driving is NUTS. Have the rotors checked before putting new pads on. Generally, I would expect pads to last between 50 and 70 thousand miles before needing replacing....

    I hit the indicators on my pad at 93,000 miles. I replaced them myself and got the parts from Advanced Autoparts. I did have to wait a few days for them to come in stock...
  • Well guys, I did change my own plugs and I put better spark wires on. I felt the dealer was ripping me off. They were charging $13.25 for EACH plug and Pepboys sells the same OEM plug (Autolite) platinum for $1.55. :mad:
    I ended up buying 6 new BOSCH plus 4 plugs (under $6.00 each) and got a new set of spark wires (Advanced Auto, special order)

    It took about 1.5 hours....only a few bolts and stuff and you are there....you can tilt the manifold out of the way and hold it out of the way with a short piece of wood...

    HOWEVER, it sure does help if you have someone with SLENDER hands to get two of the bolts(nuts) off the back side of the manifold.....that is the biggest problem....
    PS.. there is grounding contection on the backside of the manifold.....mine was not connected back when they had intstalled the new engine (at 26,000 miles) I did reconnect it.....I believe my Santy had about 74,000 miles at that point....
  • I had the same kind of problems...the Santy uses sensors to determine what speed the engine is runing and what speed the output shaft is turning. Either of these sensors going out will cause the Santy to shift badly..infact you may find you only have 2nd and 3rd gears available to you..... :mad: First the engine sensor went out,.....and then about 3 months later the output sensor went out....good news is that both are easy (plugs in) to fix and relativly cheap!

    The warrenty for 2001 was 10/100,000 BUT as part of a settlement, you were given an option of 6 year/60000 miles bumper to bumper or 12/120000 mile powertrain or (I think it was a cash settlement as the third option)

    I took the 12/120000...since I am now at 96,000 miles, I am feeling good about that choice! :shades:
  • I used my 2001 Santa Fe to boost a stranded vehicle the other day and now my park lights/side markers stay on when you shut the vehicle off....not all the time, kinda random thing, I have checked fuses, disconnected the battery for a couple minutes etc, but still on. I have a remote starter installed, just changed the battery in it a week ago....
    Baffled in Saskatchewan :confuse:
  • My 2005 Santa Fe 2.7 AWD model has been emitting a burning smell (like a new car burning smell)whenever I stop driving. It doesn't matter whether I have been driving 2 miles or 20 miles. I first thought I had a plastic bag stuck to the manifold. I took the car in for service and the dealer could not duplicate the smell and told me that everything was checked and nothing was found. I'm concerned since the burning smell is constant when I turn the car off. I have 7, 094 miles and I know the new car smell should be gone by now. I've had the car for 11 months. Any ideas on what may be the problem?
    Mookie - 12/03/2005
  • tabb1tabb1 Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Santa Fe 2.7 LX. going approximately 10 miles per hour to park my vehicle the brakes failed and i rolled into the parked vehicle in front of me after finishing my business returning home the brakes continued to fail as I attempted to stop or turn into side streets and my driveway. I understand that the 3.5 engine had a problem with abs and were reprogrammed. Has anyone else had this problem with the 2.7?
  • I just found out that I have a bad tone ring which is causing a check engine light and is generating a p0500 code. The mechanic reports that he can see the ring is broken. The quoted me a price of 670.40, they have to install a new right axle. Does this make sense? Any less costly options?

    Steve
  • The 3.5 didn't have a "problem" with the ABS. There was a TSB issued to change a sensitivity issue related to the speed/pressure needed to activate ABS at very low speeds...5MPH or less. In no way was it a safety issue and it was corrected by a re-flash of the ABS management computer. I had the TSB applied to my 2003, 3.5 AWD but never noticed any difference before OR after. In your case brake failure warning lights would have lit up the dash like a pinball game if the there was a total brake failure..in fact there are two separate brake systems and total failure is, if not impossible, improbable. If one portion fails you will have greatly reduced braking capacity but enough to stop. Finally, if I read this right, you continued to drive..instead of having the car towed..after experiencing enough reduced braking action to run into another vehicle???? Have you had them looked into yet or still asking forums what might be wrong?? Why not do the smart thing and let a professional take a look before, well nuff said...
  • No, I cannot figure out what a "tone ring" might be. Neither can I understand how replacing an axle shaft would cause a stuck in 3rd gear transmission problem unless a speed sensor drives off a RPM monitor on a wheel. I certainly don't know everything possible but honestly don't know what these mechanics are selling you for $670.00,well the what is an axle shaft but the why?? Maybe this ring is integral with the axle and not able to be replaced separately.
  • I think I may have confused the issue. I am not experiencing any problems with my car but the check engine light came on. The diagnosis was a code p0500 bad tone ring. The Hyundai dealer solution is to replace the right axle with the reason being the tone ring is pressed to the axle and in order to replace it the whole axle must be replaced. Your last sentence captures the situation.

    I am upset that it appears I must replace a good axle and it is not covered under warranty. I am wondering if anyone has any ideas as to alternative solutions.

    Steve
  • OK I follow now but still don't know what the tone ring does for the proper operation of the vehicle. It simply is a new one on me. Were the mechanics more specific about how the tone ring caused a check engine light? Well, lacking further information and your admission the car runs fine you could simply drive on BUT what long term problems may result? I normally don't advocate ignoring warning lights but until you find out exactly what this part does the only other option is replace the whole axle shaft. That too seems excessive...with the current info I simply don't know?!
  • guyfguyf Posts: 456
    The tone ring is used to send the vehicle speed signal to the transmission and ABS ECU's. There is a (small) drawing of one on that web page: http://www.mfgquote.com/profiles/Stamping-36502-Elkridge-Maryland-United-States.html

    Without the signal from the tone ring, the transmission may not have the required data on the car speed to change gear correctly. This is why it reverted to 3rd gear in a limp home mode.
  • OK now I get the whole picture...almost...it seems the tone ring is a passive part simply counting wheel revolutions, electronically of course, and sending a varying voltage to the ECU's. So when it becomes broken it ceases to work electronically. I wonder that this possible eventuality didn't become evident when designing the mounting of the part allowing it to be removed without replacing a very expensive axle shaft. Speaking of the price for that, the more than $600 cost also sounds high.
  • I really need help on my Hyundai Santa-Fe 2004 that I just bought with 30k.
    For some reason the MPG is very poor (at about 17) even though I am driving on the highway 95% of the time and I do not speed or drive in any way that consumes extra gas
    I checked the air filter and it is clean, I checked tire pressure and it is correct (30PSI front and back) . Can someone help?! :cry:
  • Here we go again...
    A. if you live where it is cold this time of year i.e. north east.....around the great lakes...well, pretty much anywhere cold the gas mileage drops simply because of extended warm up time, do you let your car idle while clearing snow off the glass or defrosting frost??
    B. even if you drive in Florida this is still an SUV and will never, ever, give you economy car gas mileage no matter how you drive. Forget what the EPA window sticker says... most people never consistantly get that. It is a guide at the very best used to compare between all similar SUV's
    C. I have owned both V-6 engine sizes: 2.7 liter AND 3.5 liter both AWD models. The 3.5 got 15 or so around town in the summer. The 2.7 got slightly better at around 17. The 3.5 got, at the very best when gas was $3.00/gal.and I was driving very..very..very carefully to maximize economy, about 24 MPG @ 95% highway driving. This was during the early fall and I suspect this to be the very best obtainable with this engine/drivetrain combination during near ideal conditions. The 2.7 liter never got any better highway mileage due to the fact, in my opinion, that the 3.5 has a 5 speed automatic compared to the 4 speed in the 2.7 liter and it turns far fewer RPM at any given speed in high gear. You don't need help, you just need to come to the realization that any SUV will never give great gas mileage. By the way, a co-worker has a FWD 2.4 liter 4 cylinder automatic Santa Fe and reports that he can touch 25 MPG highway. I have also talked to another co-worker who owns a Honda Element AWD 4 cylinder 5 speed manual. He travels regularly between Pa and Ohio via turnpikes (both Pa and Ohio)and reports 24 MPG during these trips. These heavy, tall, vehicles just don't get great economy.
  • I'm not sure if this can help you, but ever since I got my Santa Fe in 2001, if I go to get gas and the attendant does not turn the gas cap more than 2 times like they are supposed to, my engine light always comes on, as soon as I open the cap, close it, and turn it like 4 times, the light goes off, the first time it happened I called the dealer, and and the manager had just gotten a santa fe and told me to do this over the phone, and it works, I mean, if there is nothing wrong with your car other than the check engine light coming on, you can try this, and let me know if it works:-)
  • After 4 trips to the dealer, they finally figured out the problem, the bearings were bad, they only replaced the left side for some reason, it was so frustraring because it doesn't do it all the time, so it was hard to explain the noise, now, it only sounds 75% better, I still have to take it again to get the other side fixed..oh, and and if you are under 65k, it's under warranty...
  • what is the problem with your car? also creaking noise when turning wheel? and what bearing is defective?
  • dav66dav66 Posts: 1
    Please help. I have a Hyundai Santa Fe 2002 (02) 2.7 V6 4WD petrol unleaded. The engine management light came on for 60 miles, then went off for 160, then back on again. Hyundai garage know what the problem is that is causing the light to come on = out of the bank of cylinders, one is using more fuel than the other, its down by about 2 miles per gallon. They do not know how to fix it, any ideas? Petrol cap is screwed in correctly. There is my car and one other that this has happened to. Its been going on for the last 6 months, very wary of driving it far. Garage have advised not to tow. They have contacted the head office in Korea, still no ideas. Plesae help me.
  • I will never buy a Hyundai again.

    Never had a car break down on me so many times.

    Honestly, I have had it in the shop over 30 times in the past 4 years.

    Never Again will I buy a Hyundai.
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