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Hyundai Santa Fe Maintenance and Repair (2006 and earlier)

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  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,413
    edited May 2010
    Cars don't have tune-ups any more and if you go in and ask for one, the service writer will pull out a long menu of stuff that's recommended by the dealer (most of them work on commission).

    The better bet is to look up what Hyundai recommends be done at 60k using the Edmunds Maintenance Guide and avoid the extra stuff that's not related to your misfire problem.

    Another thing you could do before going to the shop is get the codes read at an auto parts store. Most do that for free. You don't need to try to tell the service writers at the dealer their job, but if they tell you something that doesn't jibe with what the codes said at the parts store, you can make further inquiry. Since you know it's a misfire, maybe you already did this?

    Confessions From the Dealership Service Department

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • bow45bow45 Posts: 21
    Hi everybody!

    I own a 03 Santa Fe LX V6 3.5 AWD that has 134,000 miles on it. I recently went to a dealership for the front subframe service campaign and the mechanic told me that the right front CV (tripod) joint (axle) boot is leaking grease :sick: and estimated it at $792.82 plus tax. :surprise:

    Does anyone know alternative or cheaper way to replace or fix it? I would appreciate any info. :)

    Thank you.
  • aquavishalaquavishal Posts: 2
    Hii
    I too went today for service campaign # 924 (subframe corrosion) and dealer suggest me to replace both front (inner) axle boots as they are leaking grease.
    I also have 2003 LX AWD V6 3.5 Santa Fe but I have 94000 miles on it. and my dealer estimated 445$ +tax !!!!
    he also said that if i ignore this issue , this might cause axle to break and then it would cost me 1000+!!!
    I would also like to know the alternative or cheaper way (looks like mine estimates are cheaper anyways)
    I live in Cleveland, OH, does anyone know good mechanic out here.
    Thanks
    VG
  • I had until recently, a 2001 GLS v6, automatic, bought new. Along with a multitude of other repairs and "issues" I was told by dealership service dept to replace the 2 boots, one being cracked and the other also damaged. I think these guys have a prewritten script of phony repairs they scare people into making - always out of warranty and always expensive. BTW, replacing the boots cost me a little over $300 each. I grew tired of the constant drain from vehicle repairs (you name it, the car needed it, and sometimes the repairs came in multiples of 2 or 3, such as 2 new alternators, 2 replaced oxygen sensors, etc.). Loved the car; hated the constant repairs.
  • liviu49liviu49 Posts: 1
    my car cut off ,no overheating,no oil in to coolant.i open the head and the gasket looks ok.the top of pistons are a bit damage and their are on the same line????/
  • v11lestatv11lestat Posts: 4
    If I understand what you wrote correctly, to me it sounds as though you have a broken timing belt.
  • Hi all, I am trying to reattach the windshield mirror and need some help. It looks I would attach the base and then screw the mirror into it? Also there are some wires that attach to the mirror, what do they do and how so I take the mirror apart? The old adhesive seems like a flexible putty, not a glue, what is that stuff? thanks for any help jpb
  • r20d12r20d12 Posts: 1
    Mine has the same problem. I have found that if I put the shifter in manual and down shift to 3rd it goes away. I think this car has a clutch that disengauges when your foot is off the throttle. I think that the transmission is either rapidly disengauging and engauging the clutch or, it is rapidly shifting between 3rd and 4th. Also, when it first started, the service engine light came on and stayed on for a few weeks then, went of and has stayed off. Try the down shift thing and let me know.

    What did the other dealers say when you talked to them?
  • Parts of my dash light are out the speedometer and the tack also one of my tail lights is out brake lights are ok
  • We just bought a 02 santa fe with 65000 miles on it and the mechanic checked it out and said it was fine, about halfway home (50 or so miles from our starting point) the engine would over rev and not go over 65, it just stuck at 65 but was in what we believe 4th gear and never shifted over then all the sudden the the car started shaking and the check engine light briefly lit up, then it was fine for another 20 miles then did the same thing, this time the oil light lit up and then went away. Also throughout this 100 mile journey from hell, the radio would change to cd1 then back to am/fm then off (i do not know if this has anything to do with the engine issue)
    What could be the problem?
  • somedai1somedai1 Posts: 416
    check fluid conditions and levels - worst cases? bad transmission - electrical shorts - computer problem - check to see what those svc eng light coming on was for - that might tell a story - 2002 with 65k miles? not only because it was nicely driven - could be that it had problems an couldn't be driven - hence the low mkileage...
  • While driving awhile back, the manual transmission would not switch out of 2. In an attempt to correct the problem, I disconnected the battery then reconnected the battery. The transmission problem seemed to be solved, but it will barely idle now, and for sure wont drive. It is as if it is missing or out of time. Any thoughts? :confuse:
  • I am in the process of rebuilding an engine for a 2004 Santa Fe (4-cyl) I am ready to seperated the engine and transmission (5 Speed) from each other. It is acting like something on inside the bell housing where the clutch is is holding them together. I have seperated many manual transmissions but this one has be stuck. Is there something in there thats need disconnected?
  • I have disassembled a 2004 hyundai santa fee engine(4cyl, 2.4L) The spark plugs were getting the gap closed on them. When I removed the head every one of the pistons had material missing from them on the right hand side nearly 1/4 of the way around the piston. Looks like the material had just eroded away as there were no big chuncks in there and no other damage. The area was the top land all the way down to the piston ring. Still had good compression. Is this a common problem with these motors or what?
  • randys42randys42 Posts: 5
    edited April 2011
    I have a 2004 Santa Fe. Some time after 50K miles, the clock display began to shut off. It would stay on when the car was cold...like standing overnight, but would shut down after a minute or two of driving. Then the check engine light would come on and stay on for a couple of days and then shut off. When summer came and it was hot the display wouldn't come on even when the car was sitting idle for a long time.

    As time went on, that same problem hit the radio display although the radio and CD player still worked fine. A few months ago, the cruise control stopped working. Recently on the first really warm day this year, a new problem cropped up. An odd one: I'd have a radio station on and then hit a preset button to change the station. Instead of the station changing, the CD player came on and played the corresponding CD. Hitting the Radio button to switch it back didn't always work. Sometimes I have to turn it off and trhen turn it on again to be able to switch back to rasdio. Even after i switch it back it may without me doing anything, go back to the CD.

    Now the AC doesn't pump cold air. Maybe it just needs Freon or maybe the compressor isn't working.

    It seems like some components are going bad, causing others to go bad. I wonder when it will cause the fuel pump or other systems to go crazy.

    Has anyone run into something like what I described?
  • joblackjoblack Posts: 11
    I have been having numerous electrical problems with my 2003 Santa Fe GLS for a while now. My clock does not work, nor does my power sunroof or the thing that shows the date. I have also had numerous problems with the engine, but now it seems to be ok and YES, I always kept up w/my oil changes and used Hyundai filters!
  • randys42randys42 Posts: 5
    So far my sunroof and the calendar are still working. Did you find out what is causing your electrical problems? I'd like to have an idea of what the problem may be and what it would cost before I take it to the dealer.
  • biged99biged99 Posts: 1
    edited May 2011
    After having the car at the dealer for a thorough routine service+ for travel from FL to CT, the engine light went on and stayed on. I brought it back and they did their magic and it went off. Then it re-lit and stayed on which I brought it back. They want to replace the purge valve ($250). Messages on this issue relate to engine stalling after filling with gas. I didn't have that problem. Why are they suggesting this repair? Also, recommending brake fluid flush ($110), power steering fluid flush ($110) and coolant fluid flush ($120). Is this necessary given yr./mileage? They also want to replace the original battery for $150, which batteries need to be replaced after this length of time. Does all this sound OK? It has been a great car for me with little repairs so far but am I being taken for a "ride"?
  • falmar1falmar1 Posts: 12
    Not sure if this helps, but I had, I think, the same problem with the purge valve a few years back. What caused the problem was that when I filled the car up at the gas station I kept topping off the gas to make I sure I got a full tank. It effected the purge valve. I can look at at my repair record to be sure.
  • hmarksterhmarkster Posts: 4
    For the past 6 months or so, my MIL light has come on every time I fill up my car with gas. I loosen the gas cap and put it back on and that seems to correct the problem, temporarily, until I need to fill my tank again. I have a 2004 Santa Fe 6 cyl. 3.5L engine. I have had my mechanic pull the code for this and it comes up as an evap leak. I have replaced my gas cap with a new one but the problem still exists. I have had the gas cap checked and it is OK (spent the extra money to buy it from the dealership to make sure that it is the correct part for my car.) I stop filling when the gas pump shuts off (I originally thought the problem was caused by topping off the tank so I make sure I don't do this, and I always make sure I put the cap on tightly as I know this could also cause the problem.) I was told by my mechanic that there is really nothing they can do except replace the gas tank nozzle and that may not even correct the problem so I should just deal with it until the light doesn't go off after replacing the gas cap. It usually comes on the day after I fill up my car and after replacing the cap will take about a day to go out. This was a major concern when I needed to get my new tags as my car wouldn't pass emissions with the check engine light on. I had the mechanic reset the code and I didn't fill up the tank until after I had passed emissions, so that is no longer a concern. This is more an annoyance than anything else and I was wondering if anyone else had this problem and what they did to fix it or if there is even a fix for this.
  • santos3santos3 Posts: 1
    I got a code on the OBD-2 pointing to the MAF as the problem on my wifes santa fe becuae it had been sputtering. So I took it off cleaned it put it back on and when I tried to turn the car on it wouldnt turn over all that would happen was the lights would go dim and flash. Has this ever happened to anybody because Im really at a lost. Could really use some help.
  • somedai1somedai1 Posts: 416
    are you sure you didn't drain down the battery? Make sure it's fully charged. And make sure the maf is dry before you try to start...
  • otto595otto595 Posts: 4
    I have a 2004 Santa Fe that had the same problem. My mechanic said that this is a common problem due to the poor design of the evap system. The problem occurs when your fuel tank is overfilled. The gas is too high in the filler neck thereby causing fuel to flow into the charcoal (EVAP) canister. A defective refuel and/or fuel cutoff valve would could cause this problem. It's possible that your charcoal canister was saturated with gasoline too so that may need replaced.
  • ahmal1ahmal1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Santa Fe with 97000 miles on it. My check engine light went on last week and I took it to the dealer. They told me I had a cracked manifold and needed a new O2 sensor. I had to pre-order the O2 sensor $150. I went on vacation and took the car in today. It had not been driven the past week - and was acting weird as I drove to the dealer. It was revving at 5000 rpms before it would sift around 20 - 25 miles (it is an automatic). I mentioned this to the dealer, they hooked it up and found out I needed a new catalytic converter. They quoted me at 2400 for parts and 3100 with labor for the catalytic converter - and I still 'need' the manifold and O2 sensor. This sees outragous to me- any ideas? Does this seem like a lot?

    I should also mention this past spring I took it in for revving issues and they 'took' care it by replacing the spark plugs and something else. n

    I know I should take it somewhere else but I worry about driving it - Think it will be ok to drive slowly somewhere else?
  • Hi there,

    I'm new to this website and forum, but I've got nowhere else to turn with this creepy problem. I have a 2001 (or) 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe... can't remember at this time. I bought it used at a not-so-professional "dealership" close to a year ago. Until now there have been zero problems with my vehicle and its functions.

    About a week or so ago, I unlocked my car with my key fob (as usual) to retrieve something from my passenger side. Almost a split second later, my car locked itself back up. I had successfully unlocked all four doors and the hatchback before this had happened. At first I thought it was my imagination and let it go. Then a few days later I went to unlock my car to get in and the doors locked a few seconds later; it turns out it wasn't a one-time thing. I had told my Dad about this issue and he seemed stunned, to my suprise. He doesn't really have a clue about what this could be, or what the cause is. And I must say, he knows a lot about cars.

    Soooo, I thought the problem was just a willy-nilly thing that happened on occassion, until it happened again today but this time while I was DRIVING! My vehicle is not programmed to lock when it reaches a certain speed. It only is supposed to automatically lock after the twenty seconds or so that I unlock it and don't open any doors, for safety. Today I had been driving for about three minutes and was at a steady speed of 55. All of a sudden my doors lock and it scared me half to death. It frightens me to think that my vehicle could lock itself at any moment, including while I am in it. Not a very good safety habit it has learned I must say.

    Could this be a problem with my key fob or my electrical/mechanical system in my vehicle? I'd love to know so I can hopefully have this problem adressed and solved. Thank you for reading!

    -Cassie
  • ella1128ella1128 Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Sante Fe and recently it has started making this loud ridiculous sound like as if the engine is about the explode, it wont accelerate when its making this sound and after a few miles of driving through the sound it just stops. Im also having a problem getting up to speed, if I come to a stop or try to accelerate quickly it really lags and takes about a mile or two to really get up to speed. It also makes this LOUD ticking sound when I first start my car and after its been driven a few miles that sound goes away. My Dad replaced the power steering pump thinking that was the problem but its just seems to get worse and worse every day! It has 145,000 miles on it, I bought it used 2 years ago with 100,000 and drive a long haul to work. Has anyone else had this problem or even heard of anything close to what I am explaining???
  • randys42randys42 Posts: 5
    The 2004 Santa Fe has a 100K warranty on it if you kept up up scheduled maintenance. Mine acted similar to yours although it was running at almost no power. The shifting problem was transmission related and covered and it needed two manifolds. One was also part of the power train coverage but the more expensive manifold was about $1600. I also had a bad O2 sensor. The sensor and manifold cost about $2500 total. The manifold part was about $1100. I'd call other Hyundai service centers and see their prices. The catalytic convertor shouldn't affect the transmission not shifting.

    Are you sure you aren't covered by your power train warranty?
  • randys42randys42 Posts: 5
    I never had any responses or clues as to what may be causing my electrical troubles. They get worse as the weather gets hotter.
  • mas15mas15 Posts: 2
    Ask them to show you the crack in the manifold. When they messed with the cables/linkage that traverses over the manifold, It is likely they did not reconnect them properly. This would cause your your vehicle to run at high rpms. Based on your reported issues and description of what the dealer said...I would be highly suspicious of their ethics and competence or both.
    GET another diagnostics from a different unaffiliated source.
  • mas15mas15 Posts: 2
    Check the FOB first. Use a small coin or flat-tip screw driver and gently pry open the Key Fob. There are two indentions along the side seam for this purpose. Once open, inspect the battery and button contact points for corrosion, dirt etc. Clean off any rust or debri. Slightly bend up the three battery contact prongs.
    Remove the small circuit board from the rubber gasket/button piece. Clean the rubber piece thoroughly. Make sure there is no water or noticeable debri/dammage on the backside of the circuit board. There are two tiny contact switch buttons. Gently press them with your finger nail. They should make a soft click, if not, replace the Fob. Reassemble, and test.
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