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Hyundai Santa Fe Maintenance and Repair (2006 and earlier)



  • kiucoolkiucool Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 2002 Santa Fe also. Now I have the same problem as you do. It is hard to start. Have you ever find out what happened to your Santa Fe?
  • glabersglabers Posts: 1
    Hi folks - Got a 2002 Sante fe. I started getting these 2 warnings the last 2 weeks or so. I start the car, drive about 15 minutes and they come on at the same time and stay on untill I turn off the engine. Start it again, same thing.. 10-15 minutes later.

    I read about them in the owners manual and they represent Anti-lock braking system and Traction Control system... Of course, it really only reads to get service, but what's that really mean? Can anyone elaborate on what the issue is, warranty coverage if there's a broblem?

    Also, are struts covered in the 60K 5yr bump-to-bump warranty? These things died I think after about 6 months and have since sounded like I have a bowling ball in the trunk while hitting bumps.

    I'm also a victem of squeeky brakes since day one, had the brakes serviced many times and an entire break job $700... still get the squeekies.. only goes away when I exceed 25 MPH.

  • scieszkascieszka Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 and 3 months after I got it a crack formed on the left corner of the windshield and created a semi-circle crack. The dealer stated something hit it and wasn't covered. Nothing hit the windshield. Yesterday the same thing appeared on the other side of the widshield in exactly the same spot but this time headed straight the right side. I'm sure the dealer is going to tell me 'something hit it'.
  • targettuningtargettuning Posts: 1,371
    Ok, regarding the ABS and TC warning light issue. I do not believe traction control was available in 2002 but became standard in 2003. Why then do you have the warning? TC was available in other than USA markets in 2002 (there are many features available in Europe/Asia/Middle East that are not necessarily available in the US) and since the traction control works by incorporating the ABS function it makes financial sense to use the same basic instrument cluster package so you have a TC warning lamp even though you may not have you follow? You DO have ABS however and if its warning lamp illuminates you probably have a problem. The brakes work normally but the ABS function does not when the light is on. If the Santa Fe is configured as most with ABS it has the following: wheel speed sensors ( per wheel)an ABS controller or computer, and a ABS hydraulic/motor module..this last is underhood on the right (passenger) side near the fender well and has 4 metal brake lines sprouting from it. At minimum a single wheel sensor may have crapped out and repairs get more extensive and expensive from there. But, the good thing is that the ABS computer WILL store fault codes pertaining to the ABS brake system and a tech at the dealer using a code reader will be able to pinpoint the fault.
    With regard to the do not say how many miles on the car but struts in any car have a finite life meaning that they will need to be replaced. They should have lasted beyond 6 months however. Check for oil leaks around each strut because they are oil filled. Since they are what is considered a "normal wear item" I do not know if they are covered by warranty...they may be but do not be surprised if they are not.
    On the squeeky brakes, it is NOT abnormal for modern brakes to make noise mostly due to the fact that asbestos has been removed from brake materials and the substitute is metallic powdered material. So, unless this is a major issue for you and you do say it subsides after 25 MPH you may have to live with it, unless you are willing to change the pads one more time using a ceramic material. Hope this sheds some light on your concerns..
  • targettuningtargettuning Posts: 1,371
    Broken and cracked windshields can be a tricky situation. Some cracks can be traced to a stone hit with line radiating from that point however it sounds as though your may be a stress crack. Further, the windshield may not be covered in Hyundai's (or any other manufacturer for that matter)warranty simply because of its "in the line of fire" nature. At best the windshield would only be covered for a limited time probably the 12 month/12,000 mile part of the warranty as a faulty originally installed part if it failed within that time frame. Your car is 3 model years old and given the fact it probably HAS been stone hit sometime in the past which could have contributed to your crack even years later I would not expect the dealer to warranty the part.
  • rick42rick42 Posts: 9
    Thanks to all of you for helping me decide what to buy. Both in this site and the Tucson site. Just bought my wife a new Santa Fe Limited...and she loves it.
  • I had the exact same thing happen to my windshield two weeks ago. I got on the internet to see if common problem. It was really strange because I know nothing hit it, and it came from bottom of glass under hood and spread half circle low all the way across in two days. I have had my Sante Fe three years in September, but I only have eighteen thousand miles on it.

    Also, I have had the same calendar problems almost since I got it. I know it is under warranty. I just haven't taken it in yet.

    Anyone else with windshield problems?
  • targettuningtargettuning Posts: 1,371
    I hope my prior post helped you set the calendar on the overhead display, or if you had the display blanking out problem the solution is a new clock.
    I have not heard about a widespread problem with windshield cracks but if you are sure nothing has recently hit it then it could be a stress derived crack where flex may start a crack in a curved section of the glass. As I previously stated glass breakage isn't warranted beyond (I'm guessing on this) the basic 12 month/12,000 mile period. You need to call the dealer for the facts on this but don't be disappointed it it is no longer covered.
  • Hi

    did you ever find out what caused the hard starting on the sante fe?
  • I am having the same problem with hard starting, have you had a repair yet?
  • fmre4fmre4 Posts: 9
    Here's a good one...

    Last week our Santa Fe (22,400 miles) would not start.
    It turned over, but wouldn't "fire".
    Called the dealer, then roadside.
    Vehicle was then taken to the dealer via rollback.
    I was then told that the car was "flooded, possibly due to the change of weather temp." Yeah, okay...

    So, fast forward this week, and we're going down the road, and the car started to lose and gain power. Then I noticed it knocking - Loudly.

    I took the car directly to the dealer, and am now told that it's bad and might need a new engine.
    Hyundai might want to find what failed and fix it. The dealer is pushing for a new engine.
    So, we'll see...

    As far as maintenance goes, I've taken it to the dealer every 3,000 miles religiously for oil and misc. check ups, so that's not an issue, thankfully.

    I'm not sure what the correlation is between the car not starting last week, and it "blowing up" this week.

    I have to say so far the dealer has been good with this. We've got a decent loaner, and are assured the car will be good as new when it's done.
    For some reason, I feel like the hammer's going to fall, and we'll be entering major dilema.

    Any feedback on what could be the problem with the engine, and if Hyundai will honor "America's Best Warranty" on something so serious?

  • targettuningtargettuning Posts: 1,371
    While it is impossible to connect the earlier no-start condition (at least on line)to the engine failure there are a couple of observations I'd like to make.
    1.) modern engines do not "flood" easily and certainly not due to changing weather conditions or ambient temperatures. You state you have 22.5 K miles on the car and presumably you know how the car works after this time so any significant change in operation isn't due to a lack of knowledge on your part.
    2.) You have done all the recommended maintainance... at the dealer no less, very good for you!! That should make this ordeal as painless as possible.
    3.) Obviously a serious internal problem that sounds like a lack of oil pressure caused terminal engine failure. Did the low oil pressure warning lamp on the dash illuminate prior to the onset of knock? Did ANY warning lamp illuminate as this was going on? Did it overheat badly? actually VERY badly.
    4.) The dealer may be instructed to disassemble the engine to see what happened, how badly damaged it is, if it is possible to economically repair it. Engines can be, and are rebuilt every day. That said, I would want a new short,or long block or even a new crate engine myself. It may be more cost effective to just replace the thing. If it is any consolation I have not heard of any wholesale 3.5 liter engine failures although like any mechanical thing it can..and apparently has to you. I would closely follow the progress and if a cause is established I would want to know exactly why the engine failed. That's just me however as I am intensely curious about my car and want to know all the what's and why's.
    5.) I do believe Hyundai will fix the car "as good as new" under warranty and I don't think there will be any hassles.
    please let me know what transpires and what has been found as to a I say I am intensely curious.
  • fmre4fmre4 Posts: 9
    Thanks for the reply.
    After the "flooding" incident, my wife and I switched cars, and I drove the Santa Fe to work, etc., up until it went all together.

    I'm one that takes notice of anything that doesn't look or sound normal, so when it acted up (hesitating, then the knocking), I was at the dealer in a matter of minutes.
    There were no warning lights or overheating of any kind, as I made sure to notice. This was the case for the week that I solely drove the car, and on the way to the dealer.

    As I said in my initial post, the dealer told me they're "pushing for a new engine". Certainly, that would suit me, but admittedly, I too am curious as to what failed. (The old motorhead in me still lives,lol)

    I'll call the dealer on Friday, which will be two days since our last conversation.
    Hopefully they'll have an answer as to how they're going to handle things.

    I'll keep you posted, and thanks for the support.
  • jman83jman83 Posts: 2
    I have 20,000 miles on my '05 Santa Fe and just recently I had my first issue with it.

    When I turned my heater on, it stayed on regardless of what buttons I pressed. I could adjust it to AC/defrost, the location of where the air comes out, etc. But the airflow was at full blast and would not shut off!! Anyone know what could be causing this? I have checked the fuses and replaced a few, to no avail.

    I spoke with my Hyundai dealer and they seem to think it could be a relay? I don't have a whole lot of time to get to a dealer, so if this is something I can do, I'd rather do it. Help!!

    Thanks in advance.
  • guyfguyf Posts: 456
    If an engine is flooded bad enough, the gas in the cylinders can find it's way to the sump and dilute the oil. It's a problem that happened sometimes on old carburator engine's; extremely unfrequent on modern engines.

    While modern car do not have a "choke", the injection system enrich the mixture for cold weather start. If somehow a sensor controlling this system failed, it may (and I emphasize may...) have caused the flooding and subsequently the terminal failure of the engine. But in that case, you should have got a low oil pressure warning light....

    Just speculations.... :confuse:
  • fmre4fmre4 Posts: 9
    Thanks for the reply, I think you're on the right track.
    Funny, I just got home from work and was going to post the exact same possible cause that a co-worker mentioned to me.
    Perhaps a sensor went haywire, sending way too much fuel, and some wound up mixing with the oil??
    A rare occurance, but possibly the root cause nonetheless, as it was most definitely flooded last week. (But certainly not due to a change in weather temp.!)

    I'm sure the last thing the dealer wants to hear is a car owner that "knows it all", but I'm thinking of calling tomorrow, and add that theory to the mix.

    Even if they put a new engine in, they better make darn sure every sensor that has to do with sending and mixing fuel is replaced.
    Maybe that should have been done when it intially flooded last week...

    Thanks again.
  • guyfguyf Posts: 456
    The dealer is the one who should have replaced the oil when you brought him your car all flooded. Huyndai may be reticent to cover that under warranty and blame the dealer.

    Make sure not to get caught between the 2....

    Be careful and good luck ;)
  • fmre4fmre4 Posts: 9
    Good advice.
    I did call the dealer today, and was told that they're waiting for a visit from an adjustor, which is leaving me a bit suspicious or dare I say, nervous.
    It sounds like some finger pointing is going on between Hyundai higher-ups and the dealer.
    I'm assured that because of the "impeccable" maintenance schedule I kept will keep me out of all that (we shall see).
    The car's never missed an oil change.
    Every 3,000 miles, at the same dealership, and I've got every receipt - Thankfully!

    Before I picked up the car from the initial flooding, I did have them change the oil, as it was at the 3,000 mile mark.

    Once the car arrived (via rollback), the service advisor "cranked the heck out of it" unitl it started, then he drove it around town for a while.

    When I picked up the car the next day is when the oil was changed.
    Not by their recommendation, but mine. (and my dime, too)

    Assuming the gas mixed with the oil, could that drive around town (by the dealer), prior to the oil change cause irreparable damage?

    It ran fine for the week after until it went all together, but perhaps the damage had already been done...

    I'm anticipating on learning more next week, and I'll post when I do.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,422
    Oil dilution with fuel would require a rather large amount of fuel in order for that condition to be harmful. "Flooding" only means the spark plugs got wet. Actual "oil dilution" would require so much fuel that your oil level would show higher on the dipstick.

    Besides, as you drive, the fuel in the oil evaporates, providing it is not an excessive amount.

    But yes, large amounts of fuel in the oil could destroy an engine because it washes the cylinders clean, hence no oil protection. But you'd have a huge drop in oil pressure and lots of noise prior to that.


  • I posted this in another place but no one has even responded or looked at it. Sorry for the cross post, but I need to know whats up prior to buying :)

    Looking for a gently used car and ran across some 01 Santa Fe's and went to check reliabilty ratings. JD powers shows that 4-5 year mechanical dependability is 2/5. MSN Autos shows them as 5/5 with no major issues. Now i'm even MORE confused than I was before.

    Also, ever dealer I have gone to wants WAY over what Edmunds and Kelley are saying the car is worth in excellent (and none so far are what I would consider excellent, but rather clean cars). The only one I have seen within the price ranges of both Kelley and Edmunds has frame damage to it. Why are these things so expensive on lots???

    Can anyone tell me what major problems to expect with these and which reliability rating is more accurate (I haven't even gone to consumer reports yet). I have read reviews out my ying yang and still can't get a good feel for this cars reliability.

    I MUST have a car that is reliable and requires few worries as I am a single parent who has to transport two kids, one who has a developmental disablity. Break downs are not acceptable
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