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Hyundai Santa Fe Maintenance and Repair (2006 and earlier)

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Comments

  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,958
    Check out the Edmunds Maintenance Guide for what the manufacturer recommends for your car and how much it should cost for US zip codes.

    Note the fine print there:

    *This Total Estimated Cost includes the preventive maintenance items recommended by Hyundai. The facility that services your vehicle may perform different, greater, or fewer procedures that can affect the cost you incur.

    And check out the Maintenance Tips page at Edmunds as well as the Dealer vs. Manufacturer Maintenance Schedules article.
  • jpanozzo1jpanozzo1 Posts: 50
    A fluid change schedule should be in your owners manual. Attention to tires should be more related to rotation every other oil change, which can be done at a less expensive place than the dealer if you so choose. Just keep your receipts.

    Alignnment and balance requirements are more due to the vehicle pulling to one side or the other or abnormal tire wear. Alighnment and balance can be needed more often if you drive rutted roads. On the other hand I drive almost 100% highway or well paved roads and my Camry got over 70K on the first set of tires with NO ALIGNMENTS OR BALANCING, only rotation.

    Steve's tips above are very good; just thought I would throw in my 2c.

    Joe in Texarkana
  • kconfusedkconfused Posts: 1
    I purchased 2 remotes, along with the instructions to program the remotes. Unfortunatly when I removed the lower panel on the dash, I couldn't locate the etacs module in order to switch it to set it to program. Please, anybody help me locate the etacs module so I can program my remotes.
  • 1234693112346931 Posts: 17
    many thanx joe & steve for your explanations. I purchased the vehicle new & use the owners manual for mantenance, from day one, but as I previously stated, I have been hounded by the service departments, during the last 2 oil changes, to change the tranny fluid & filter. when I ask if something is wrong, they say no, but the service should be done, at the 15000 mile point. My inquiry was due to my wondering, if there was more I should know besides the manual, To furthur help my understanding, the manual says "inspect" (i.e. tranny, etc.) can you enlighten my as to what the manual means by inspect? thanx again for yor help. Rich
  • I have a 2001 SF2.7V62WD, I just hit 90,000 with no problems. Ironically, 30 miles after the 90,000 mark my check engine light came on (first time ever) and my transmission would not transition correctly. I have noticed that my car has been acting sluggish the last couple of weeks. When I drove it later, the engine light went off and the transmission was engaging normally. I used the shift-tronic also and it was working well. Do you think my transmission is going out? What should I have checked/changed and or serviced? Thanks for your help.
  • smt1smt1 Posts: 4
    I own a 2002 4 cylinder Sante Fe. While at a dealership the other day my wife was comlaining to a Service Manager about performance problems and MPG issues she has with the Sante Fe. He told her that the Sante Fe was set up for the Californiatype emission testing. And that there is a way to increase the MPG and the Horsepower of the Sante Fe. Anybody know what he might be talking about? She didn't follow up with asking him how.
  • targettuningtargettuning Posts: 1,371
    100K miles would be a good time to start thinking about transmission and filter changes. If I am not mistaken 100K is the suggested time in the maint/service interval manual but if I am wrong it still is a good time. Yeah, there are those who say every 25K or 50K and everything in between but 15K is certainly too early unless you have some extraordinary driving circumstances. Although I cannot say exactly what "inspect" means but probably check fluid level..check pan bolts for tightness and check for leaks plus inspect any electrical connectors for complete connection.
  • targettuningtargettuning Posts: 1,371
    When your check engine light illuminated it most likely logged a fault code in the engine or transmission controller computer. This code can be read by a technition at the dealer via an OBDII code reader and decoded to find exactly what happened. This is a pretty accurate way to find out where failures may have occurred. I do not think your transmission is going out (it may however so don't take my opinion as gospel) however there is clearly something wrong and you should take it in for a diagnostic check.
  • targettuningtargettuning Posts: 1,371
    Crapola...I think the standards are becoming equally stringent throughout the lower 48 states. At one time California had increased standards and cars destined there had more stringent testing but in recent years cars can be sold throughout the country including California with the same standards. Further, I do not think there is any concrete way to increase performance and fuel economy...I take that back there are several ways:
    1. have the car serviced and properly tuned at specified intervals.
    2. keep the tires properly inflated
    3. take the "junk" out...stuff we haul around in the trunk that adds extra weight.
    4.drive at rational speeds and keep a steady speed.
    All basic stuff but do I think there is a magic fix applied in the bowels of the service department...nope?!
    Finally do not expect super fuel economy with this style vehicle...even the 4 cylinder version...around 24-25 highway according to a co-worker who has a 2001 fwd 4 cyl. auto and makes a 50 mile round trip interstate commute daily.
  • dhkhthdhkhth Posts: 3
    Hi there has anyone else had any problems with the rear hatch outside opener getting stuck open? this would be by second time. first time they changed my locking mechanism. they lubed it the first time. I have just brought back again, and they lubed again, and said they would have to replace it. first they would not cover, and said replacing would not be covered under extended warranty. that has changed. if it happens again they will replace and it will be covered under extended warranty. I was just wondering if other santa fe owners had had similar hatch problems. thank you :confuse:
  • reca1reca1 Posts: 14
    I just purchased a 2007 Santa Fe Limited. Love the vehicle, but every time I travel over 50 mph, a whistling noise comes from the windshield arae. I've had the vehicle back to the dealer twice & they cheched the seals on the windshield & now they're looking into vents not fitting properly. Has anyone else had this problem? I read a review of the 07 Santa Fe & windshield noise was mentioned in the article.
  • subarufan1subarufan1 Posts: 85
    do you think they will be able to fix that problem?? :confuse:
  • terryredterryred Posts: 1
    15 MPG does "stink" but did you realize there is a break-in period on the engine. Wish my dealer had told me. I only have 400 miles on mine and now that i am following the break-in procedure outlined in the manual, i got 20 MPG on my last tank of mixed driving.
  • reca1reca1 Posts: 14
    The service department at Washington Hyundai said they will call Hyundai and ask for solutions of the windshiel noise. Right now they seem stumped.
  • targettuningtargettuning Posts: 1,371
    I assume this is the completely redesigned Santa Fe? If so, it is probably too early for a lot of people to start posting about that model. Most on this site have the first generation model. That said however if your noise becomes an issue with all or many it will be talked about eventually.
  • Firstly I must apologise for not acknowledging your reply to my post earlier. I have been away and it takes a while to catch up. I wrote to Hyundai Motor UK and got a very bland reply repeating the dealers report. I'm not impressed with Customer Services that are just a mouthpiece for the Dealer network. Following your advice I finally traced what I think is the relevant TSB relating to durability of the manual transmission - TSB No 0440013 dated 1 September 2004. I have now quoted this to Hyundai and await a reply. No doubt they will wriggle but I am determined to pick at this scab until it bleeds and I get some result. I must say thanks for your efforts - I have been reading all the latest posts and you obviously spend a lot of time trying to help people with problems - it is much appreciated
  • bouch137bouch137 Posts: 1
    Has anyone had any success in successfully / permanently fixing this type of problem (engine accelerates even when stepping on brake)? I had a similar situation last year (2004 Santa Fe 3.5L), and I was told that Hyundai had several problems of this type with the computer brain - that the brain thinks the gas pedal is still being applied despite no gas and/or brakes applied. They replaced the computer brain, and I assumed it was over. Now, I have had the same problem happen again, even with a new brain (assuming it was really replaced the first time). Luckily no accidents - yet. Is this something that I can expect to be a permanent problem with this car? (Lemon law doesn't apply yet, until they have tried to fix it 3 times, or I am dead, whichever comes first).
  • targettuningtargettuning Posts: 1,371
    These types of problems are not...repeat, not, common and usually it is found to be operator error. Meaning that the driver inadvertently steps on both the throttle and brake at the same time. I personally have done this once and believe me I did not know it was my car revving and I actually looked into my rear view mirror to see who was on my tail. I am not saying you do not have a mechanical problem only that in the majority of cases it has been determined that it was a driver error. I can't recall when the the cable free throttle was added to the SF. but this type of throttle control is pretty reliable. If you are quite sure it is mechanical have the dealer service dept review the problem yet again.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    if it were me, i'd try a few simple experiments, maybe 4 or five to see if i could locate and lesson the wind noise.

    first, i would remove the windshield blades or otherwise tape them down to the glass to rule out chatter from air moving under, instead of over the blade assembly.

    second, i'd take some painter's tape (blue) and tape around the rubber stripping on the windshield so the gap between the glass and the rubber is closed off. i suppose black electrical tape would also work - you just want to be able to remove it later without removing rubber or paint or leaving sticky adhesive behind.

    third, i'd try using the same tape on the gap made by the side-view mirror joint (where if the mirrors can rotate inward there is a gap).

    fourth, if i had any roof rack with rails, i'd verify that the thicker forward edge of the roof cross-bars were pointing towards the front of the vehicle. if installed so the thicker part pointing to the back, it will not act properly like an airfoil and will "sing".

    fifth, i would tape the cowl (the black plastic part below the wipers to the glass. if you have a significant space there between plastic and glass, i could see (like blowing air over an open soda bottle) having a sound produced there.

    hope it helps.
  • Bouch 137 .... You are absolutely right... And the service manager at the dealership confirmed this... He wanted me to take my foot OFF the brake the next time I applied the brake and the engine raced to see if the engine racing went down... When it did, we both knew the problem was with me, the driver... I was hitting the brake pedal, and when it reached the same height as the gas pedal, my foot was also touching the gas pedal... Apparently Hyundai's brake and gas pedal are VERY CLOSE in proximity. Now I make sure my foot is firmly on the brake ONLY. Thanks for your insight..
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