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Nissan Altima

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  • big_guybig_guy Posts: 372
    I am a new owner of a Nissan Altima. I have the 2 yr lease deal on an '05 Altima 2.5S w/ auto tranny. I needed to get into a new vehicle when my previous lease deal came to termination and the deal on the Altima was too good to passup. I have been extremely disappointed with several aspects of the car to date;

    1. There are no lights on the vanity mirrors.
    2. There is practically no adjustability to the dash vents for the AC. You can close them and they have louvers that are supposed to adjust the airflow but in reality it does next to nothing.
    3. The transmission tends to jerk far too often when under moderate acceleration. When under light acceleration or under heavy acceleration the tranny does better.
    4. There are rattles coming from my glovebox and dash that drive me nuts. Can't seem to find the source.
    5. Cover of armrest in back seat is not properly attached resulting in bunched up fabric when the rest is down.
    6. Weather stripping from left rear passenger door area came off as my 5 year old was getting out of the car. It was not difficult to put back on but the fact that it came off so easily is dissapointing.
    7. Interior noise is pretty loud (combination of wind noise and tire drone).
    8. The car gets really skittish if I hit a bump while braking to a stop. (most often this is a pothole in the pavement as I approach a stoplight or perhaps a blob of tar from recent road repairs). This seems to be dangerous to me as it feels like the car is loosing braking ability and feels like it is starting to wander as the ABS tries to figure out what is going on.
    9. Little rubber inserts at the bottom of the interior door handles keep working loose and flopping around inside the handle cavity.
    10. There is next to no padding on the door armrests.
    11. The interior materials seem very cheap.

    On the positive side, I like the exterior looks of the vehicle and I have been averaging around 26 mpg in mostly city driving.
  • indyfanindyfan Posts: 22
    Yikes!! I was strongley considering an Altima, but after reading this I am glad I bought an Accord. It's been perfect in the 4-5 months I've owned it.
  • miss66miss66 Posts: 12
    I planned on test driving the 06 altima this week. After reading some of the messages I am concerned with all this talk about stalling. I know nothing about the altima (have spent the last few weeks test driving the toyota avalon and honda accord but neither of these cars give me pain-free driving. Have bad lower back problems.) So, would appreciate views on the stalling situation and the pros and cons of the 4 and 6 cyl models. Any success stories from fellow back sufferers would be appreciated
  • Well I have had my 02 Altima nearly 4 years now and it has by far been the best car I've ever had. I currently have 76,000 miles and haven't had any problems with the car. When I first bought the car a couple of times it had a rough time starting but other than that it's been great.
  • miss66miss66 Posts: 12
    Thanks for the reply. Did you get a 3 or 6 cyl.?
  • 4 cylinder because I have a 35 minute commute to work and I needed a sedan that got good gas mileage.
  • if you could please expand on your line 3: I would be very interested. I have a 2004 2.5S and have soooo many problems....my car has been in the shop for 34 days straight got it back for 2 weeks and it is back in for going on 3 weeks straight. My serpentine belt cracked, my service engine soon light has come on more times then I can remember and they have replaced my fuel injectors and air sensor 2 times each. Please, please explain and let me know if you don't mind. thank you
  • big_guybig_guy Posts: 372
    To elaborate on item no 3.
    When I am accelerating from a dead stop with moderate throttle pressure (read as typical acceleration in city traffic), the transmission seems to slip from 1st into 2nd gear resulting in a jerking sensation that you can feel as the car lurches slightly as the gears slip. If I apply very little pressure to the throttle, the transmission shifts smoothly. If I apply a lot of pressure to the throttle, the tramsmission shifts smoothly.

    On another note, I notice this same transmission slipping if I am accelerating then have to let off the throttle and then reapply the throttle in a short period of time (this happens to me typically as I am starting off through an intersection and have to let off the gas as the car in front of me slows down or somebody turns into my lane, then they accelerate again allowing me to accelerate again.) This can get pretty unnerving when you get the sensation that you might stall as a result of the slipping transmission.

    To date I have not been able to get into the dealer to have them look at the problems I have been having. My work schedule has had me putting in a lot of 12-16 hour days and I am lucky if I can get a break to go to lunch ... much less take my car to the dealership. I am planning on having them take a look at these problems I have been having in the next week or two though. I will post here again once I get a response from the dealer.

    One other thing that drives me crazy is the cruise control. If I have the cruise control set and I am traveling down a hill, the cruise control can't find a set point. The vehicle will coast until it is below set point and then will apply more throttle than it needs and overshoot the set point then have to let off again. This repeats itself as long as I am going down the hill. The cruise control works just fine on a flat section of road or going uphill. (I experienced this same thing in a rental Maxima a month or so ago.) The other vehicles that I have owned with cruise control have been able to smoothly maintain speeds on a downhill stretch of road. This has been annoying in my Altima.

    I do like the interior room that the Altima provides and the seats are reasonably comfortable but the positives do not outweigh the negatives I have experienced so far.
  • IS THERE ANY WAY TO BYPASS THIS SENSOR WITHOUT ACTUALLY BUYING A NEW ONE?
  • 2005 Altima 2.5SL experiencing jerk problem when at a light. Not sure whether fuel injection problem/electrical problem. Is there anyone experiencing the same problem? Hopefully, I will take car to dealer AGAIN! Will keep you posted as to what they say.
  • My 2005 Altima 2.5SL been in the shop 4 times for not starting. Now I'm experiencing a jerk when I excelerate. I have 45,000 miles. I been told to contact Consumer Affairs because the dealer can not duplicate the problem. Of course, Consumer Affairs said I'm just the only one having the problem. Is it just me?
  • 4him24him2 Posts: 3
    Unfortunately, it's not just you. Where do I start? I have a 2002 Nissan Altima that I'm leasing. Since driving off the lot my service engine light has been on. Too many times to count my car would not start at random times. Even worse, due to a recall my engine was burning oil. Didn't know this and drove my car resulting in engine damage. Cost me $2000 to replace my engine. I've filed three complaints with Consumer Affairs but they all both denied due to being out of warranty. Even after replacing the engine, my car started stalling while driving. I can't afford to pay anymore to get it fixed. The last time it stalled Nissan ended up paying for it because they tried to sell me another car, loan fell through, but ended up having to fix my Altima because they were going to sell it. Strange way to get Nissan to pay for their lemon, huh? I WOULD SAY SPREAD THE WORD, NISSAN TREATS THEIR CUSTOMERS SO NOT RIGHT!
    Prayer helps....
    :) :lemon:
  • The Altima has so many positive advantages over the Accord, most of them effect the driver and passengers. One of the bigeest flaws of the Honda Accord is that the rear seat fold dowm, but all of it, it's not split, so if you plan on extra passengers in the rear with long items like SKI's - it's not going to happen in the Accord, but with the Altima you can fit 4 people and skis's - not in an Accord. Plus the Altima has a bigger fuel tank balanced within the frame, the Accords fuel tank is on the driver side. Also the standard Power of the Nissan Altima's 4 cyl. and 6 cyl. is better, plus Nissan has a better Warranty. Nissans don't break down anymore ... Altima is a great car, and is fun, is quality and is extremely durable and reliable.
  • rasuprasup Posts: 136
    Just bought a 2006 2.5S Sp.edition last week. The car is too new to comment on. I test drove 06 sonata (very good) , Mazda 06, Ford Fusion and finally settled on the Altima. The car rides great and is fun to drive, spacious and moves fast. I miss heated mirrors and am surprised at the hood support push rod!!. Most of the new cars have hydraulic supports.
    Has anyone on the forum used synthetic oil?. The manual recommends mineral based oil, but my dealer tells me synthetic could be added.
    Comments?.
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    "Most of the new cars have hydraulic supports. Has anyone on the forum used synthetic oil?. The manual recommends mineral based oil, but my dealer tells me synthetic could be added."

    You'd be surprised how many mid-size cars use a rod hood support in cars equipped with 4-cyl engines, but pop for hydraulic hood supports in models equipped with 6-cyl engines. My 2003 Hyundai Sonata is an example. (I haven't checked out a 2006 4-cyl Sonata personally, though.) I've read about Nissan's owner's manual recommendations for mineral oil, and it's "curious" to say the least. I'm unaware of any fundemental technical reason not to use synthetic oil in Nissan engines, but I see no overriding reason to go to the additional expense of synthetics if you plan to change oil according to the owner's manual recommendations either - except for the "feel good" factor. It's really your call. Keep in mind, that where synthetic motor oil is not specifically required to maintain your engine warranty rights, no manufacturer, domestic or foreign, can withold honoring a warranty claim due to use of conventional mineral oil of the correct viscosity, but regardless of type of oil used, no manufacturer will honor a warranty claim for oil related failure if the owner fails to abide by the owner's manual periodic oil change interval. In other words, if you use a pricey synthetic and keep it in service for, say, 12,000-15,000 miles at a time, and after 2 years, 9 months the engine flies apart at 29,000 miles, you're on your own if Nissan can present compelling evidence that your extended drain intervals materially contributed to the engine's demise. (The burden of proof is always on the manufacturer or his agent.) Also keep in mind that current conventional (mineral) oils are awfully close to the performance levels of pure synthetics of just 3-5 years ago - leastways at reasonable 5,000-6,000 mile oil change intervals and they're fully capable of supporting 300,000+ miles of engine longevity at these change intervals in engines driven sensibly. Two really good "conventional" motor oils currently available are Havoline conventional and Motorcraft "Premium Synthetic-Blend" - both generally available for under $2.00/qt. at WalMart if you do your own oil changes. (In the U.S., Ford's "Motorcraft" brand oils are blended and bottled by ConocoPhillips - the fifth largest oil company in the U.S.) Presumably your owner's manual recommends 5W-30 viscosity in most areas of the U.S.? If your geographical area necessitates 0W-30 viscosity for winter operation, both Mobil1 and Castrol Syntec have appropriate full synthetics. Just be cautious about extended oil change intervals while under warranty.

    *The "synthetic" component in Motorcraft Premium Synthetic Blend motor oil is really a conventional mineral oil, but so fundementally altered through a process known as "severe hydroprocessing" that it meets industry agreed-upon technical definitions of synthetic performance. The short explanation of hydroprocessing is passing the feed oil stock from the refinery's distillation tower into a pressure vessel (literally a VERY large electric pressure cooker), seal it up tight, and "cook" the contents under 400+ degree heat in the presence of pure hydrogen gas under very high pressure and specific catalytic salts to convert (isomerize) undesirable molecules into desired oil molecules. Depending on the length of time involved, one of two "classes" of base oil stocks result: "Group II" or "Group III". Think of Group III as mo' better Group II, having been cooked longer. In the process, undesirable sulfur-containing molecules (unstable at engine operating temperatures and which tend to form destructive sulfuric acid in the sump) are reformed, too, into desirable oil molecules. The dissociated elemental sulfur remains behind as sediment in the bottom of the reaction vessel from which it's collected, further purified, and sold for commercial industrial purposes. (Sulfur's really great stuff, but you don't want any in your engine oil.) In the case of Motorcraft Premium Synthetic Blend 5W-20, 5W-30, and 10W-30 motor oils, they're a varying blend of Group II and Group III base stocks plus anti-wear, detergent/dispersant, and viscosity stabilizing additives for the final product. ConocoPhillips publically admits that the Group III content is "minimally well in excess of 68%". Havoline, on the other hand, has no Group III component, but is a blend of Group II and what is unofficially classed as "Group II+" base oil stocks. Group II+ is a casually agreed upon industry-wide convenience designation among refiners as superior to straight Group II, but just marginally shy of officially qualifying to the API Group III designation. (An analogy would be a piece of otherwise exquisite Waterford Crystal with an all but unnoticeable, tiny chip in the base.) Havoline (a wholly-owned subsidiary of Chevron Oil Company now) lists its 5W-20 and 5W-30 conventional motor oils as "ISOSYN" on the labels which identify the company's Group II/Group II+ blends. Havoline's 10W-30 viscosity motor oil is a fully additized Group II product. Until about four years ago, virtually all conventional mineral oil based motor oils were additized Group I products. Current conventional motor oils are a sea change from the Group I products.

    (for anyone bored to tears with this tribological diatribe - sorry...)
  • My '05 Altima has the exact same transmission problem. I notice it most when the AC is on. Although I mentioned the problem to the dealer, they dismissed it as "normal". My theory is it has something to do with the drive-by-wire system now used in the Altimas.
  • I just got my 2005 Altima back after having the exact same jerkiness-low acceleration issue. They replaced something to do with the throttle and it now works like a charm. Whenit first happend I too thought it transmission related.
  • Would you kindly post as to exactly what part they replaced? That way I can go to the dealer with the information.
  • rasuprasup Posts: 136
    Hi,
    Haefr, thank you for a very detailed explanation. The bottom line is making sure that we use good quality oil and do the changes as required. Its 400 miles so far. Very pleasurable to drive. Mileage in mixed traffic with 2.5S 2006 is around 21.6. I have frequent stop and go conditions. So far so good.
  • this is long but can be entertaining!!! I bought a nu 05 altima in aug 05 and after about a month a herd the brakes,I ignored it bcuz hey it couldnt b my car bcuz it was nu. After a cple more wks I turned down the radio and really heard that it was my car a high pitch squilling and the brakes felt funny (grinding)so I took my nu car to the dealer on 10/05/05 I took the car into Nissan and they replaced the front pads and resurfaced the front rotors. On 10/24/05 I took my car back to Nissan for the same complaint and was told that they could not duplicate the problem. On 10/31/05 I took the car back to and was told that the left rotors were a little rough and they resurfaced both left side rotors and that would take care of the problem. on 11/07/05 I took my car back and they replaced the front brakes, said they put a compound on them to tell why they are wearing unevenly as i might have a bad caliper, they told me to drive it for 500 more miles and bring it back. I have called consumer affairs and recieved no assistance and now I have a lemon law hearing for friday because as of today the problem still exists and is getting worse. I have been told that the noise is normal and I dont believe anyone buys a car to have brakes sounding like they are about to pop off or feel as though they are not going to catch and stop but hey it could just be me. i was also told to take it back to the dealer i purchased it from which dumbfounded me as I thought all Nissan dealers were authorized and trained to repair their cars. I was told to take it for a second opinion so i asked Nissan would you like me to take it to Honda or Toyota. I bought this car bcuz my lease on my Accord was up and I loved the look and initial feel of the car, if I am sucessful with my hearing its back to honda for me. I had 82mi and had no trouble, the trans had 2 b replaced but honda replaced it under warranty even though it has expired as they said I was a good customer by always taking my car to the dealer for service and maintance. too bad Nissan doesn't have this approach especially with a nu car under 3700mi at first brake replacement. :mad: :cry: :confuse: :sick: :lemon:
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    I must've missed something in your timeline - what was the final word regarding the possibility of a defective caliper before you filed your lemon law case?
  • I have a manual tranmission 2005 Altima 2.5S that has a similar behaviour. When I accelerate from the dead stop, it sometimes hesitates specially if I am heavy on the throttle a little. It seems to happen more often in the winter time. I mentioned about that to the service people but the impression I got from their response is that they won't do anything about it unless I cause a scene.

    It would be great if we could hear from globilly on what it was they changed to correct the problem.

    Thanks.
  • Potential Number of Units Affected: 81,300
    Recall Date : AUG 05, 2005 Read Full
    Recall Notice

    Defect Summary:
    Nissan has determined that on some 2004 model year Sentra and 2004-2005 model year Altima vehicles equipped with the 2.5 liter engine there is a possibility that power valve screws located in the intake manifold may become loose.
    Consequence Summary:
    If this occurs the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) may illuminate and unstable engine idling or power loss may occur.

    Corrective Summary:
    For most vehicles, the basic repair will be to inspect the Power Valve Plates and Screws and, if all screws are installed, to replace the Power Valve screws with new ones. Depending on results of the inspection process, more extensive repairs, including repair or replacement of the engine may be required. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT NISSAN AT 1-800-647-7261.

    http://www.nissanhelp.com/Recalls/Altima/2005.htm

    This might be a related issue? Good luck
  • i recently discoverd this car albeit it late in its model life, what are your thoughts....

    dealer offering good pricing. at first i thought too close to the G35 pricing, but a 30k msrp was offered for around 26k...best deal i have found on a G35 so far optioned the way i would want(prem. pkg B) is $32k

    that 6k is enough for me too look at tha SE-R
  • m382m382 Posts: 35
    does any one own an Altima SE-R, and would like to post there own pros and cons on the car. it would be extremely helpfull because i am currently looking at one.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Hey, boston14, could you drop me an email please? pat AT edmunds.com. Thanks!
  • SORRY I HAVENT BEEN ABLE TO COME BACK TO THIC BUT THERE WAS NO FINAL WORD WE WENT TO THE HEARING AND THE JUDEGE ORDERED THEM TO REPAIR THE BRAKES AND TRANSMISSION AND ON 01-06-06 THE REPAIRED THE BRAKES ( NO PRONLEM FOUND WITHTHE TRANS, OF COURSE) AND AS OF TODAY THE BRAKES ARE BACK TO SQAULLING AND GRINDING AND WE ARE GOING BACK TO ANOTHER HEARING!
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Yow, you're hurting my ears ... or my eyes!! :)

    Please don't post in all caps - it's considered shouting and it also makes your post hard to read.

    Good luck with this next hearing - keep us posted.
  • SporinSporin Posts: 1,066
    Are there V6 5 speeds ANYWHERE??

    I'm really interested in a 3.5 5spd since they are such a bargain but I can't find one anywhere in the online searches. I hate to call a dealer before I'm ready to buy since they ALL hound you mercilessly once they get your contact info (a sad fact).

    I'm in Central Vermont.
  • and forget getting certain options too.

    I think the ONLY pkg available for the 5spd V6 SE is the Leather pkg which is silly IMO because the Sport Pkgs (which have the word SPORT) aren't available with stick shifts anymore.

    Mazda and Honda about the ONLY companies that caters to stick shift drivers anymore.
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