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Toyota Sequoia Accessories and Modifications

mcmattmcmatt Posts: 80
Installed backup sensor this weekend. Maybe this info will be useful.

First off, forget the 20 minute professional install listed in the documentation. This is for a trunk with easy access to the backup light wires. It will take 3 to 4 hours for a good install in a Sequoia.

1. Remove panels on lift gate. These are held on with pin in hole connectors only. Use panel tool, wooden stick or taped screwdriver to pry edge of panels. The large panel is also lipped over the window seal so it will have to be pushed up when the connectors are popped loose.

2. Remove black metal insert. This will give you access to the sheet metal just behind the license plate. There are about 8 hex screws and two electrical connectors. Then the panel will pop off of 3 push connectors.

3. Now the painfull part. I could not find an existing access hole that would not allow wire to show around lic plate. I had to drill (ouch) large enough hole for wires. I suggest painting metal edge, use rubber grommet and silicone seal outsid only to prevent leaks and prevent trapping moisture in grommet.

4. Route wires from sensor, through bracket and then through lic plate and frame. NOTE: I suggest using plate frame with wide bottom to mount sensor. Then route wires through grommet (use silicone at end of install).

5. Be careful routing wires through lift gate. You will have to add extensions for power wires, but not sensor speaker wires. The sensor spkr can be mounted inside door. It is still loud enough. Route the wires following OEM wire path. NOTE!!!! pay attention to path for window to follow. If you cross the path with your wires, your sensor will work only until you roll the back window down the first time!

6. Fish the wires through existing rubber grommet on side of gate. Then run the wires up the existing wire path to the rubber pass through between gate and vehicle. It is a good idea to take the time to fish the wire through this rubber pass through. You need a firm wire, etc to make both bends.

7. There are three side panels to remove/displace on the side of the vehicle. These are harder to remove/replace and may deter you from trying this project.

8. Remove top inside trim panel. To do this, remove ceiling light plate by prying. Remove the two screws under this plate. The top panel will then pop off.

9. Remove the left quarter panel interior trim by removing the bottom door trim screws and lifting bottom door trim.

10. The cargo net connectors are tricky. Hold them around the edges and pull. The star piece will split in half toward you and you will pull out the center locking pin. Then the whole connector will come out. I broke one figuring this out.

11. The rest of the quarter panel trim will pop out. You need to have rear seat removed. You will probably drop/lose a couple of the U'shaped connector clips. Be prepared to buy a couple of clips before reinstalling panels!

12. Then you have to remove the middle left trim. Flip the cap open on seatbelt holder and remove seatbelt holddown bolt. Do this at your own risk!!!!! You need to be sure this bolt is retorqued to specifications for safety reasons. If anything, this information should warn you about what is entailed in the install, please don't let it entice you to do the install. I don't want that on my conscience (Thanks).

13. The black trim connectors are removed by pushing the center circle inward and then the whole connector will fall out. There are 3 of these on this panel, I think.

14. You can now run the wires down the inside edge of the vehicle. All wire routes should be along existing wire paths and should be cable tied to existing wire bundles, taking care not to add tension to any connections.

15. Using 3M splice connectors. The kind that might come with sensor kit, or the kind I use which are clamshells connectors that clamp around the wire and clip together while displacing insulation and then forming a female 1/4" spade connection to the wire. You can then plug a shrouded male 1/4" connector into it.

16. The backup light wires should be the following, but verify in your car by looking at actual backup light.

12V backup signal = Red w/blk stripe prior to final connector and Red w/blue stripe after final connector.

Ground = White w/blk stripe

17. Make wire connections and test by putting trans in reverse. Sensor should give acknowledgement beeps

18. Make sure wire runs have enough slack, are cable tied, do not interfere with door closure or back window roll-down path.

19. Replace interior panels and make sure all connectors are intact and snap well.

20. Replace seatbelt anchor and make sure torque is set to spec. Remember, this is at your own risk. I am not a professional or a Toyota rep, I am just relating my experience and I am not recommending anyone try this. And I am also scared of lawyers!!

21. Replace black metal panel in gate.

22. Install speaker on black panel. There is a handy indentation near door ECU. Bundle up excess wire, you might want to move speaker later.

23. Replace gate trim panels. Be sure to overlap the top of the main panel at the base of the window, push it down until seated.

24. On outside of vehicle you can mount bracket to lic plate frame with short bolts/washers. Make sure head of bolt is small enough not to interfere with module mounting onto bracket. Also make sure bolts don't scratch paint behind plate. (This is if you do not use the lic plate mounting holes on the top of the plate. I tried this location and the module seemed to be in the way and casting a shadow. I also wanted it closer to the bumper).

25. I put some self adhesive weaterstripping foam on the back of the lic plate to keep it from rattling when closing the gate.

26. Leave some slack wire behind plate so the plate can be moved/positioned without pulling more wire out.

27. Silicone seal grommet and wire entrance on outside only.

28. Mount sensor to bracket. Make sure it is angled downward toward bumper. NOTE: Due to the angle of the lift gate mounting area, I may put spacers in to point the sensor even more downward, I have tested enough to determine this.

29. You should now be ready to test/use sensor. There is a potentiometer on the back of the sensor for sensitivity adjustment. Refer to instructions.

Let me know if you have any specific questions. I hope this helps you decide whether you would like to install a sensor on your Seq or not. Good Luck.
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Comments

  • tbevertbever Posts: 39
    What brand of backup sensor was this? I am interested in getting one but there is no freaking way I would install it.
  • mcmattmcmatt Posts: 80
    tbever, check out Sequoia Solutions. I posted this there and got a reply from someone that mounted a plate under the bumper. You could access the backup wires in the trailer harness and then only drill a hole somewhere to run the speaker wires. You would only have to pull panels to hide the speaker, or you could leave it visible, I guess.

    This was an AutoPark. You might also contact them. They might have mounting suggestions that are easier than mine.
  • slickrockslickrock Posts: 60
    I haven't studied the wiring diagrams (which I do have) that much, but wouldn't you need access to the backup light wire to install this unit (I presume it beeps when the backup light is illuminated)? I'm not sure the backup light is available in the trailer hitch wiring.
  • suznjonessuznjones Posts: 32
    I've been trying to find all weather mats for my Seq. Toyota only has the ones for the front seat and the rear seat. Does anyone know if the rear seat ones will fit in the third row? What about the cargo area? Any ideas? Thanks!
  • slickrockslickrock Posts: 60
    Yup, I got 'em and the rear seat pair will also fit the third row (but if I recall right, you might have to reverse them for the third row -- i.e., tail back rather than tail forward). But they still fit fine. I do like them and will probably never go back to the cheezy carpeted mats.

    One other thing: It's stamped right on the all-weather mats not to put them over existing (carpeted) floor mats -- so I removed standard front and rear carpeted mats. But the third row carpeted mat extends all the way back to the tailgate, so I left that one in, and put the AW mats on top of it.
  • mcmattmcmatt Posts: 80
    The AW mats from Toyota for the Seq are pretty cool. The front ones have Seqouia embossed on them.

    I put the driver AW in for all time and I plan to swap out the other AW for the carpet ones whenever I have muddy soccer feet, etc. in the plans.
  • suznjonessuznjones Posts: 32
    How much water do the Toyota ones hold? I like the Husky Liners and they make a set for the three rows and another one of their lines makes one for the cargo area. I'm just not sure about the color match. My Seq is gray inside and the whole black or gray desicion is a tough one ; )
  • mcmattmcmatt Posts: 80
    Get the gray Seq ones...they are nice. They will hold a lot of water they have many grooves that are about a half inch wide by a quarter inch deep. They look better than the Husky liners to me. I would at least view them before making a decision. I got the front and rear sets for about $80, which isn't bad for dealer prices.
  • suznjonessuznjones Posts: 32
    I do like having the name on them and the set I'm looking at would be $94 for just the first 2 sets. What did you do about the cargo area?
  • slickrockslickrock Posts: 60
    Try the following URL:

    http://www.toyota-parts.com/page2.html

    Go through the quiz (select "accessories"), then pick "all-weather mats".

    Show your dealer those prices and ask him to match them. If not, order them from the site.

    I haven't seen anything good for the cargo area yet. I may just cut up some old linoleum (just kidding).

    But I did make a cargo liner for my wife's previa out of clear plastic carpet runner material (with the anti-slip knobs on the backside). It has worked great for 10 years, and I'll probably do the same for the Sequoia.
  • mcmattmcmatt Posts: 80
    I orderered the WeatherTech option for the cargo area. I got it through JC Whitney for $119. It looks good on paper. I have not received it yet.
  • fishcarfishcar Posts: 18
    Husky (www.huskyliners.com) makes a cargo liner for the Seq. Their grey is a pretty good match for the charcoal interior of my SR5. Has a 2" lip all around... I cut the back lip down to facilitate sliding stuff in and out.

    Cargo liner cost ~$100 from Premiere Motoring, but someone posted on Sequoia solutions that they got it cheaper (~$90) from Cabellas (not in their catalog, but apparently they have it in stock).
  • mcmattmcmatt Posts: 80
    Installed WeatherTech cargo liner. I am very pleased. It is not an exact color-match, but it blends very well. It is not dark grey, but it is a shade darker than interior vinyl. It is close to the carpet color.

    It has optional cut-outs that correspond to the holes in the factory carpet. You can leave them in to have the liner hold water, or you can cut them out to be able to use the 3rd row seats.
  • lcd1lcd1 Posts: 147
    I'm interested in making the Seq. quieter. Does any one know if there is a hood liner that I could purchase? JCWhitney sells about 4 different types of heat/noise insulation for use under the hood. The price range varies drastically, and I presume that the effectiveness also varies among different insulation types. Does anyone have experience with hood insulation? Any suggestions on what else I could do? Thanks.
  • tbevertbever Posts: 39
    I don't know anything about hood liners, but another way to reduce interior noise is by having a sound deadening material called Dynamat installed. This is usually done by high end car audio shops. It is a very involved procedure where they basically remove all the interior lining of the vehicle and line it with this acoustically deadening material. Pricey too.
  • lcd1lcd1 Posts: 147
    Thanks for the tip. Having spent about $40k on the thang, I'm not sure if having dynamat professionally installed would be a smart investment. I'd rather find some do-it-yourself improvement projects to do.
  • lcd1lcd1 Posts: 147
    You mentioned that a grey cargo area could be bought at JCwhitney for 119 bucks. I searched the site but did not see it. Could you give me their stock #? Thanks. By the way, I'm waiting for an AutoPark backup sensor to come. How is yours working?
  • mcmattmcmatt Posts: 80
    lcd1,

    I had the same trouble on the jcwhitney site. They don't have the cargo liner anywhere on the web.

    I had to get the number from a catalog. You can still order it on the web using the "place catalog order" function.

    The stock number should be 760197. When you enter this the "76" will trigger a bunch of questions about your particular car type. With normal shipping you should receive it in just under two weeks.

    The backup sensor is working as advertised. It has come in handy in a couple of parking garages. I have noted a couple of things. (1) Don't get overconfident on "non-car" items. I don't know if the performance is as reliable on tricycles, etc. (2) As the manual says, there are blind spots in the coverage area. If someone has to rely on this type of device for a lot of backing up in tight spaces, it would be wise to use two or three across the back to get complete coverage. A single unit install works best on things directly behind you and not as well for things that you might only hit with a corner of the bumper.
  • lcd1lcd1 Posts: 147
    mcmatt: the correct part number is 76-0197T.
  • rleonardrleonard Posts: 17
    Trying to hit all bases to locate Bumper Guard/Brush Guard and under hood light. Any suggestions? GM bought back my 2001 Yukon XL for Cold Air problems and now Sequoia owner and what a pleasant difference.
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