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Toyota Sequoia Maintenance and Repair

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  • aliminalimin Posts: 67
    Have an '05 SR5 - dinged the tail light on the driver's side by hitting the trash cart backing out - got a replacement part for the outside driver's side tail light. Two screws to pop off - but is there an easy way to get to the inside and unplug the existing one and plug in the new one without, it seems, taking off most of the inside covers (where the head rest for the third row middle seat is stored)?
    Thanks!
  • harboharbo Posts: 136
    Norm did you get an answer? I have the same problem.
    Thx .. Harbo
  • aliminalimin Posts: 67
    With the help of a friendly body shop owner, I solved my problem by simply twisting the original tail light and turn signal bulbs out of the damaged tail light and putting them into the new one. No need to unplug or replace the wiring at all, nor tear apart any inside panels. And now I have two spare bulbs.
  • danted23danted23 Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I can find tons of websites selling aftermarket and replacement parts for the "main" components of the Sequoia, but does anybody have a good site/suggestion on where I can find the smaller, cheaper pieces?

    For example, I need to find the little plastic light cover on the rear door that covers the light that turns on when the door is open.

    Thanks!
  • aliminalimin Posts: 67
    After a 500 mile trip, I garaged the '05 Seq (87K miles) and smelled burned oil. The local dealer showed me some grease from the apparently over-lubbed (the dealership did the service work) front u-joint had hit the transmission housing and caused the odor. But he also pointed out a leak on the boot of the driver's side rack & pinion area. Said a seal is probably going bad. Also said it was very expen$ive to repair (quoted over a grand for the rack&pinion plus labor). Anyone else have that problem? Is there a less costly fix? How serious is the problem?
    Thanks!
  • salem6salem6 Posts: 1
    my Sequoia is an '01 with 185k miles and after the last service with the dealer - I was alerted to a small leak also on the rack and pinion - it was early stage and no repair required yet. Similar cost estimate for replacing the whole unit with no alternative, would welcome thoughts re. repair rather than complete unit replacement
  • aliminalimin Posts: 67
    Took the '05 to a frame/alignment shop and they cleaned the boot and area around the boot on both sides and said to give it a week to see if it really is a leak or something else. He said he thought it was rare that the seals would leak unless the part was hit. So I'm going to see what happens over the weekend's 600 mile travels. Also, a local junk yard quoted a $600 parts price for a complete rack/pinion set. Good luck on yours, too.
  • aliminalimin Posts: 67
    Well, after the long trip, I still have some leakage around the boot area. But the mechanic suggested that, unless there was fluid on the floor, it wasn't serious enough to replace the rack & pinion system at this time. So I'll see how the next 80K miles go! Anyone else have that experience? Thanks.
  • raybobraybob Posts: 3
    I've got a 2004 Sequoia and the rear hatch won't unlock. I've tried to unlock it with the key and the transmitter with no success. I can hear the selenoid working, but the hatch won't unlock. Every once in a while it surprises me and it unlocks, but only 5% of the time. Anyone had this experience and know how to fix it short of taking it to the dealer??
  • trapper51trapper51 Posts: 27
    Yes - we all have had this problem -rear hatch has been problematic with the Sequoia - I have a 2001 with 209,000 miles and have fixed this 3x. Be sure to lubricate with PB Blaster or WD40 the external hatch release as well as the release block down at the base of the lift gate. (The external hand release is plastic and couldnt take the wear - it just snaps. The lower actual lock seems to rust badly but liubrication helps. Use the electronic key to lock and unlock many times. Repairs will cost $200 or more - the tech needs to work around the power window motor to replace the plastic handle - ask for a longer than normal warranty on this part and exercise it extensively - mine broke again after, you guessed it, 400 days! Fortunately - thats just about all that has broken a second time.
    Unfortunately - when the lock goes there is NO WAY to open or release this gate manually - very poor design, along with the heavy steel construction. My wife's Highlander just about opens by itself. Maybe someone else has a more permanent fix for this - like replacing it with something 100% manual? Good luck,
  • raybobraybob Posts: 3
    Can you manually release the latch by taking off the interior panel??
  • trapper51trapper51 Posts: 27
    yes - Believe you can - just be careful removing the panel - helps to have some panel pullers (cheap sets avail. from Harbor Freight - you might need them again) so you can re-attach it w/o destroying any of the clips. A junk yard might have the part but you might need to bring the panel pullers along. The upper Plastic latch release part was $60 or $75 - and as I said, in 200k miles I'm on my 3rd so might not be worth getting one off a wrecked Seq. that might be ready to break. My son the mechanic did the job in 1 hr.
  • raybobraybob Posts: 3
    Just for fun, I went by my local Toyota dealer today and asked them what they thought the problem was. As you can guess, they weren't much help and occered to make an appointment to fix it. I didn't fall for it. I guess it comes down to me trying to get the hatch open from the outside and when that fails, roll down the window and jump in head first! I'm sure I can fix it, but don't really want to spend my time when I could be doing more productive, like fishing, golf, or being lazy. I guess tomorrow's the day to do it. Thanks for the help. Ray
  • sb55sb55 On an Island in VermontPosts: 157
    Try a body shop. That's what I did, and got it fixed for $75.00.

    2007 Miata, 2010 BMW 535xiT, 2010 GMC Sierra SLE, 2006 Subaru Legacy Wagon

  • aliminalimin Posts: 67
    Had the camshaft sensor replaced at 88K miles on my '05 SR5 at the local Toyota dealer($400); was wondering if that indicates other engine/transmission problems might be coming along, or would that be considered "expected" wear and tear? Thanks!
  • trapper51trapper51 Posts: 27
    At 209,000 miles I can honestly say I have yet to replce any engine components - either due to wear or failure on my 2001 Sequoia. The vehicle and powertrain continues to amaze me. I have replaced 4WD seals and the Diff once under warranty, and had the intake manifold leak air which necessitated rrplacement at 99,000 just inside warranty $(1300). But other than brakes and O2 sensors (Check engine light) and the PRNDL light on dash - not even a light bulb replacement! I tried aftermarket Sylvania headlights to improve my night vision but they failed after 1 yr and Sylvania even agreed that was 'Normal for "High performance" bulbs"\' - but sent me a replacement coupon - So when they failed again in another year I put the original Toyota bulbs back in and they're still going strong. So much for Sylvania manufacturing and hype - or maybe Toyota QC.
  • kineokineo Posts: 7
    Wondering have you also not changed the timing belt?
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Posts: 382
    Expected wear and tear.
  • aliminalimin Posts: 67
    Thanks, canddmeyer. I asked the question because after owning 7 Toyotas over the last 38 years (Tercel, 3 Camrys, Highlander, Corolla and Sequoia) this was my first camshaft sensor issue with any vehicle.
  • John9393John9393 Posts: 3
    I know this reply is a year and a half late, but I found it when I went looking, so I'll reply just in case anyone else finds this. I have a 2001 Sequoia LTD, and we had it in to the dealer for a check engine light on. The dealer ran the codes, and told us we had two bad catalytic converters and a bad rear oxygen sensor. Their estimate: $4000 for the repair.

    Now this sounded a bit fishy to me. I've heard of catalytic converters going bad, but not on a vehicle only 8 years old.And for sure not two at the same time. Way too much of a coincidence!!

    So I went to a mechanic friend of mine and asked him the question. And he said there was a good chance that just replacing the bad oxygen sensor would correct all of the codes. So I bought a new sensor at AutoZone ($129), rented a car code reader. The code reader "confirmed" what the shop had said - both catalytic converters and one oxygen sensor had trouble codes. I swapped out the sensor (15 minute job), and cleared the computer (pulled the negative battery cable off for 5 minutes). Sure enough, when I redid the code read, it came up clean - no problems.

    So for $129 and 15 minutes, I saved $4000. Not bad. But I think that buys me the right to complain a little. This is speculation on my part, but it seems like the only sensor points that could show a problem in either catalytic converter are the two rear oxygen sensors. And if one of them is showing a trouble code, couldn't that be the cause of the catalytic converters showing trouble codes?? It's kinda like saying, "That sensor is broken, but it is still working fine." I would think the dealer would at least say, "You have a bad oxygen sensor and POSSIBLY two bad catalytic converters. But we need to change the oxygen sensor before we can be sure." Come on - two catalytic converters coincidentally failing at exactly the same time?? The dealer is supposed to be smarter than I. How come this sounded suspicious to me, but not to them? So I'm not saying the dealer was crooked (after all, the codes for two bad catalytic converters and a bad sensor did show up on the computer). I'm just saying that it is not a bad thing to get a second opinion for any larger repair, even if it is a dealer telling you that you need it....
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