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Oldsmobile Intrigue: Problems & Solutions

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  • check out this bulletin dated 01/16/2001

    Higher than Normal Temp Gauge Reading/Overheat in Cold Weather #01-06-02-001
    Higher Than Normal Temperature Gauge Reading or Overheat Condition in Cold Weather (Install Enhanced Thermostat)
    2001 Oldsmobile Aurora

    1999-2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue

    with 3.5 L Engine (VIN H -- RPO LX5)

    Condition
    Some customers may comment that their vehicle displays a higher than normal temperature gauge reading or may overheat in cold weather. This will generally occur while idling or driving slowly in traffic during colder weather, usually less than 0°C (32°F), with the heater control set to maximum heat and fan speed. If all published diagnosis from the appropriate applicable service manual has been performed without success then an enhanced thermostat may need to be installed.

    Cause
    The engine thermostat may not provide adequate coolant flow.

    Correction
    Perform all published diagnostics from the appropriate Service Manual and any repairs that may be indicated. If these have been performed without success, then an enhanced thermostat should be installed. A thermostat with improved coolant flow has been developed for the 3.5 L engine applications listed above. For complete detailed instructions on the proper installation of this thermostat, refer to the appropriate applicable GM Service Manual.

    Parts Information
    Part Number
     Description
     Qty
     
    12570247
     Thermostat - 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora with VIN H, RPO LX5
     
     
    12570248
     Thermostat - 1999-2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue with VIN H, RPO LX5
     
     

    Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

    Warranty Information
    For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

    Labor Operation
     Description
     Labor Time
     
    J3500
     Thermostat, Outlet and/or Gasket Replace
     Use Published Labor Time
  • just4fun2just4fun2 Posts: 461
    1998 Intrigue blower motor only works on high speed. I have no other speeds in between. I believe that it is the blower motor resistor. Could you tell me if it has one resistor for all speeds or two resistors, one for low speeds and one for high only? Also, I would think that this resistor would be located by/on the blower motor, but could you tell me where to look.

    Thanks again for your past help!!!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Manual AC uses a resistor network which provides all speeds except high. Automatic climate control uses a blower control module. Either is in the same location, behind the RH side of the instrument panel, in the right side of the heater-A/C module just below and to the left of the blower motor.

    The resistor has a 7 wire connector:
    tan, yellow, purple, light blue, black, and 2 orange

    The control module has 3 wires in a 4 wire connector:
    black, orange, grey/black
  • just4fun2just4fun2 Posts: 461
    Thank you very much, I will try to fix this with in the next few days.

    Again, thank you!!!!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    You're welcome. Good luck with it. Btw, it's been about -10F here for the last few days. High blower speed is all we use in this neck of the woods! LOL
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Well I finally purchased the 2000 Intrigue. The car is in great shape with a couple of minor problems. I mentioined before thea thte fuel guage is not working. The last few times I have been in the vehicle it has been reading full (which it should). But at times, it will drop to empty and the light comes on. I haven't been albe to pinpoint under what conditions it drops to empty. The initial diagnosis is the fuel sending unit but I'm not so sure anymore. BTW, I use the trip odometer to decide when i need gas.

    The other minor problem is when the first turn in the morning which is normally when I come out of my parking space, I can feel a short "rubbing" either in the wheel or the steering column. it doesn't do it any other time during driving. Just after the car has been sitting for a while.

    other then that it drives great!!! (Knock on wood)
  • rabeetrabeet Posts: 6
    We are finally getting rid of our 1998 Olds Intrigue at 60K miles. GM lost us as customers for all time. In fact, I can't imagine buying any American make car ever again.

    Here is a partial list of the things that failed on this car:

    - front rotors replaced twice. Not due to wear.
    - rack and pinion replaced twice.
    - entire dashboard replaced.
    - driver's seat cover replaced.
    - rear window replaced due to faulty antenna.
    - air circulation motor replaced.
    - water pump replaced.
    - serpentine belt tensioner/idle pulley replaced.
    - passenger grab handle replaced.
    - both driving/front turn signal sockets replaced.
    - generator replaced.
    - engine speed sensor replaced.
    - glove compartment latch adjusted several times, then replaced.
    - trunk latch replaced.
    - rear seat belts replaced (recall?).
    - ignition switch replaced.
    - driver door trim has to be pounded back into place about once a month.

    We paid for many of these ourselves. This car has stranded my wife and child three times in the past year and a half.

    Save your money and heartache and don't buy one of these beasts. What a waste of money!
  • It is part of the ABS self test and described below:

    The EBTCM performs the Initialization test once each ignition cycle when the vehicle speed reaches 6 Km/h (4 mph) and the EBTCM does not see a brake switch input. If the EBTCM sees a brake switch input, the initialization test runs when the vehicle speed reaches 15 Km/h (9 mph). The Initialization sequence cycles each valve solenoid and the pump motor (as well as the necessary relays) to check component operation. If any error is detected, the EBTCM will set a DTC. The Initialization sequence may be heard and felt while it is taking place, and is considered part of normal operation.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    i don't think I have ever read about one car having so many problems. What took you so long in getting rid of the ing?
  • rabeetrabeet Posts: 6
    Well, I think it was always a case of thinking that we finally had the thing sorted out. But the parts just keep failing.

    I also wanted to get a certain amount of use out of it before taking the value hit. I figure I will be lucky to get 4K for it as a trade.
  • 3and143and14 Posts: 36
    I had the same issue with the wiper arm coming loose happen on my '98 Intrigue. It was "fixed" under warranty, but it was never right. I had it back in the shop 3 additional times in 36K and I'd bet anything whoever got that car after I got rid of it back in 2001 has had it fixed since.

    Sorry I don't know the details of the repair or a cost estimate since it was always warranty work, but if you have the repair made professionally I'd look for someone who stands behind their work. (as it appears to be a difficult repair to do properly...then again maybe my dealership employed moron mechanics)
  • danjwdanjw Posts: 2
    I generally enjoy my 2000 Intrigue; however, I hate to bump the speed limiter at approx 112 m.p.h. ( I drive long distances in West Texas, and have frequent opportunities to "bump the limiter). Is there a way to easily disable the speed limiter? I also own a Ford ZX2, and disabling the speed limiter only required clipping one wire.
  • Hello All! I've owned my 98 Intrigue for five years now, and have had all the usual problems. ISS replaced once, and is now clunking again. Wind noise, water leak, door trim sticking, oil leak, etc. Needless to say, I'll never buy another Olds.

    My problem is this; I recently had a brake job done, and they replaced the pads and rotors. Ever since the car pulls to the right, about 1/4 turn of the steering wheel. Seems to get better at higher speeds, but I could be crazy. Anyone else had this problem? I'm thinking maybe brake drag. Just wondering if anyone has had this problem and solved it!

    Thanks in advance :)
  • just4fun2just4fun2 Posts: 461
    When I replace the rear brakes and rotors on my 98, the instructions said that you only had to remove one of the slide bolts on the caliper and rotate the caliper up to remove the rotor. I wanted to make sure that both slide bolts were greased and free, so, I greased both bolts on each caliper. It turned out that the slide bolts that they told me not to remove were the ones that had some rust on them. I was glad that I decided to check both slide bolts and not go exactly by the instructions.

    Maybe, they didn't grease both slide bolts and it is causing the right side to not release completely. Just a thought. Good luck.
  • Wow I feel lucky. I have a 98 with 145K mi which really hasn't had anything major go wrong outside normal wear and tear.
    I guess the 2 worst minor things would be oil pan gasket leaking.
    And the sockets for for day time running lights.
  • dekesterdekester Posts: 322
    Noticed lately that the driver's door is "in" a little at the bottom - not fitting flush against the bottom of the front fender - and is "out" a little at the diagonally opposite corner.

    Is it just a simple matter of loosening a couple of bolts, "finessing" the door into position and tightening the bolts again, or could the hinge pins be shot?

    I have to admit that the panel gaps are pretty even throughout the car and the five years I've owned it I've only had this one problem.

    Thanks,

    Deke
  • At 49000 miles have had or still have a problem other than the ISS and steering rack.

    It stalled completely twice while driving down the street. Service engine soon light would flash sometimes while driving. Would start and die about three times. Sometimes when cranked a long time 5 to 10 seconds, the smoke would roll out the exhaust and very bad odor exhaust.

    From info learned here on this site I went to my favorite dealer for a code scan, even though the service engine soon light would never lock in.

    There were no codes found with the scan tool.

    Assuming it to be the CKP, fuel pressure regulator,or ignition switch the mechanic checked the fuel pressure and test drove the vehicle with no problems, naturally.

    To shorten this story paid my $72.00 and started to leave. The car started and died. Mechanic then started it and wiggled the switch and got it to die twice.

    Paid a total of $362.00 for an ignition switch and labor. $212.00 labor and $135.00 for the Switch plus tax. The original $72.00 labor diagnostic was applied to the final charge as credit.

    Also thought that I may have picked up some bad fuel at Wally World, as after fueling there the problem started. Just put in 15.5 Gal. of fuel at Sam's and have the car sitting out in 30 deg F. weather to cool off and see if it starts and runs O.K.. I did appear that cold weather freezing or below was a factor.

    I told the dealer I was coming back irate if this does not solve the problem.

    The new switch has a different part # but the mechanic said that they are always changing the part number but not the product.

    It is a good & fair dealer and I believe I'll get some help finacially if the problem is not fixed.
  • We had the same problem with our '01 less than a year into ownership. The dealer knew what caused the car to die right away and replaced it. He started up the car at the dealership, wiggled the key and the car died. Haven't had the problem in the 2 years since replacement.
  • I sent the wife out to test it out and she just came home so I assume it must be OK. I didn't want to be out stranded and run over by an SUV so I sent her. She likes the car as it was her driver before I bought her a 2002 Buick regal.
    Just to express my concern for safety I listed a complaint with the NHTSA Office of Defects Investigation.

    I don't know if Edmunds would let me list the ODI # or not , so I won't list it.
  • Recently had to jump start my '99 Intrigue -- not sure why because the battery is only six months old. After it started, I decided to have the battery checked -- it's fine. But I lost speedometer, odometer, temp/gas gauges and radio in the process. The tech, at a local oil change shop, changed the fuse for the power windows, but indicated that there was no power to the fuses for the other items. He suggested I take it to the dealer. Any ideas?? Thanks.
This discussion has been closed.