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Subaru Impreza WRX Wagon



  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Posts: 464
    There are several companies that cut the film into kits -- Stongard, Xpel, Rockblocker, etc. I found that local installers of the product were partial to their specific kit and were not really open to installing a kit purchased online...unfortunately, this precluded me from using the Rockblocker kit, which cost a fraction of the other kits for the materials. Call around to find an installer if you order a kit online, it may be tough.

    I went with the XPEL kit that was installed by a local shop. Xpel and Rockblocker use the same 3M film as Stongard, but are less expensive. The differences in the cut of the kits weren't enough to justify the added expense of Stongard, although Stongard does have a longer warranty if that matters to you.

    For $650, this is not cheap protection, but I do think it's worth it...there's nothing I hate more than looking at a sea of rock chips on a new car. From talking with a few people that have had the 3M film on their car for more than a couple of years, it looks like this stuff will live up to its claims and remain invisible on the car.

    Email Chad at to see if he's got an installer in your area -- if he does, I would recommend you go with their kit and save some money...he's offering the full front kit for about $260 plus installation. That's HALF what Stongard wants for the same stuff. Otherwise, Xpel's kit seems to be a great product for the money.

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Also does the clear-bra stuff. He uses the rock-blocker stuff. is his webpage. Great guy.

    The other key is to make sure to put it on ASAP after you get the car, once there is a nick in it the stuff won't stick right.

  • hypovhypov Posts: 3,068
    wash the car real good, no polish before the bra goes on. The adhesive may react to some polish and not stick.

  • Thanks for the leads on bras. On to something meatier...

    Okay, here's a sincere question for dedicated motorheads.

    Perhaps you've read that the 2.5 motor in the XT and STi, in addition to electronic throttle control, variable valve timing, heavy duty con rods, forged pistons, also has a beefed up rear main bearing cap to keep the crankshaft from wobbling(???). Wobbling? So C & D reports.

    Should any or all of this be of any practical significance to a prospective WRX buyer? I believe I understand the relative advantages of the former features, but this thing about wobbly cranks -- is this something to ponder. I never noticed that my Legacy's crank was out of joint.

  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    the 2.5's 79mm stroke is more prone to see-sawing at high rpm.

    interesting though, there is no "main bearing cap" on a horizontally opposed engine. there are two case halves.

    poor terminology on their part, but I know what they're talking about.

  • Similar to yours, my last driver's car was a '99 M3. And, I agree (reading your comments at the XT forum) its gearing -- absent a sixth gear -- was perfect.

    I'll look forward to your response to Ken as to whether you think the XT's ratios are closer to the mark than the U.S. WRX.
  • msdannyjmsdannyj Posts: 22
    I have a new 2003 WRX wagon. Some I#@%& dinged the bittom of my rear door in the parking lot. It is a crease about 3 inches log with a little paint loss. Do I try to fix it myself using touch up paint and ding remover or take it to the shop? If I should take it to the shop, do I take it to the dealer or some body shop? How much $$ is this going to set me back...I am really mad....Thanks.
  • dallan1dallan1 Posts: 8
    I went to Dent Wizard for paintless dent repair. It cost $99 and you can't even tell the dent was there. It only took 1 hour, and I would definitely recommend some type of paintless dent repair shop. The chance to make it worse is definitely there if you do it yourself.

    Fortunately, I did not have any paint damage. I would get the dent repaired first, then try some touch up paint if you think the mark is visible. I would think that unless the paint loss is very visible, it would be better not to use any touch up since that might make it worse.
  • I happened onto the Dent Wizard approach years go, and heartily endorse it (as do car dealers, though they don't advertise it, preferring customers believe that cars on their lots have never had a mishap).

    Initially, I thought it was too good to be true, and a friend of mine who owns a body shop told me it was snake oil, just like a turf-protecting, dogmatic doc, who tells patients not to avoid ANY alternative healing methods.

    I've used a local outfit in the north Bay Area called Dent Dynamics, which also makes custom tools for this type of repair.

    Like the medical arts it's good to ask how many of these procedures the person working on your car has successfully done, as good eye hand coordination and experience matter.

    If the crease or dent has a sharp enough edge to it, the sheet metal's "memory" may be a little deranged, meaning that a slight residual wave or ripple could visible if viewed at a certain angle or under certain lighting conditions. Your repairer should be able to tell you pretty much what to expect, before even touching the car.

    Overall, I've been completely satisfied with the results.
  • I'm considering purchasing a 2002 Subaru WRX wagon. I'm always weary of buying a used car with a high performance engine, but it only has 16,000 miles on it. So I would have 1 year and 20,000 miles of a warranty. That is if it is transferrable. So is the factory warranty transferrable? If so, how would I go about actually transferring the warranty? And finally, has anyone any experience with the extended warranties? Price wise, about what did yours run? Thanks. I appreciate the your help!
  • himilerhimiler Posts: 1,209
    The new-car warranty is fully transferrable. When you sign the used-car purchase agreement, it's effectively transferred.

    I'm not of the ilk that looks for extended warranties, so I can't be of much use to you on that issue.
  • gottawrxgottawrx Posts: 18
    Has anyone installed the Fumoto engine oil drain valve and any comments on it. And has anyone heard of the Boost Monkey and what they think of it?

    Lovin my 03 WGN with 11K in it.
  • stoner420stoner420 Posts: 165
    I've got to change my oil soon, and have one of these in the car ready to be installed. It seems like it'll be very convenient going forward. I'll probably just file down a few threads to get the last drops of oil.
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    So, nipple or no nipple? (serious question, folks)

  • prayerforprayerfor Posts: 161
    I also have a Fumoto awaiting install at my next change interval. I'm not going to worry about the plug protruding into the oil pan. Change the oil while it's hot, and whatever particulates that may have settled at the bottom of the pan will be "stirred" up into the oil and thus should drain out.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Good idea - the washers, that is.

    Warranty: I'm one of the few that likes 'em. Here's why:

    * did you know it includes roadside assistance?
    * it's bumper to bumper, 7/100, 0 deductible in my case
    * better resale value, I'll probably sell at 6 years/80k miles, to have some left on it
    * we wasted $2500 on our 626 in less mileage/time
    * peice of mind, no big surprises
    * free loaner guarantee (already made use of that)
    * red carpet treatment (we got a minivan, not a Geo Metro)

  • stoner420stoner420 Posts: 165
    seems unnecessary, and $3 cheaper this way
  • dill6dill6 Posts: 120
    got my '02 wagon in this AM for 30K service - dealer talked me into an extra $150 for chemical "flushing/cleaning" of cooling system, brake lines, injectors, etc. I said OK, now that I've had a moment to think about it sounds mostly like a good profit item for the dealer. What do you think? jive?
    They're also to check out the intermittent clutch judder problem which I KNOW the car has, but which it will probably fail to exhibit for them. What should I say when they tell me the clutch is "fine"? I've actually learned to deal with it pretty well from a driving technique standpoint, and it only happens when its quite cold, but since there's a TSB on it I think it SHOULD be fixed, since the problem is definitely there.
    Lastly, I have noticed a pronounced "chirp" everytime the AC compressor cycles on - any thoughts on that?
  • himilerhimiler Posts: 1,209
    The "chirp" is most likely from the belt slipping a bit as the a/c compressor switches on. Have the dealer check it for wear and proper tension.

    The flush and fill treatment for the cooling and brake systems (esp. w/ABS) is a good idea, but IMO, fuel injector cleaning for a car that runs hi-octane is wasted $$. The only top-end cleaning our cars might ever need is to have the throttle body spiffed.

    Tell them you want the TSB work performed on your car, period. The TSB will list the build date of the affected cars, and so as long as your car is in that group, there shouldn't be any fuss. If the service manager balks at you, tell them you wouldn't have mentioned the clutch judder if it weren't an issue!
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