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Volvo 240 Wagons

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  • I driven Volvo for 30 yr. I have a 93 240 and a 2000 V70 XC. My wife saw the new Honda CRV and wanted one, but I didn't have the heart to get rid of the old 240 so, I'm going to keep it. It's nothing to insure and it so handy. You can do anything with it. I only have 165000 mi on it.
    It was and is the perfect car. :sick:
  • Hi, it sounds like you're very familiar with the 240. I have a '93 240 sedan that is absolutely killing me. It was such a great, reliable, low maintenance car until 2 years ago. I am wondering if you ever had problems with "check engine", specifically something related to fuel injection, 'mass air flow', running too lean/rich alternately, running rough on startup and idle, and failing emissions/smog.

    I am in California, so of course the emissions are the strictest. however, the check engine light has been off and on for 1.5 years and has been 'fixed' by many different mechanics and cost me over $2000. I am at my wits' end and now hate the car, but I'm not sure whether to scrap it or fix it. What do you recommend? I was planning on taking it again to the local Volvo dealer (who after 3 days said it was just in need of a new O2 sensor, which did not resolved check engine or failing smog actually). Oh, and it also has a brand new catalytic converter, fix in exhaust leak supposedly, and many other things.

    Thank you!

    Julie
  • Hello,

    The check engine light only come on when a electric sensor is not working. It could be your Mass air sensor or your O2 sensor. I live in RI but, I can't believe the local Volvo dealer couldn't fix it. He should have to equipment to test for problem. Hope this helps. Those sensor are only good for about 100,000 miles but, as always they could last longer. :sick:
  • I am a recent purchaser of a 92 volvo 240 with 75000 orig miles. It is in great condition. I have a bulb check light that wont go out. All my bulbs are working were I need to check. How do I turn this light of from the instrument panel?
  • If you take the Panel off on your spare tire side you can get at the back lights. On the bottom of the driver side light there is a ground wire that has a removable tang. That tang becomes corroded and give a false signal to your bulb out system. Clean this and reinstall and with luck your light should go out. It happens on mine every year or so depending on where you live. I live by the ocean and the salt water air does this to mine. Get back to me if that's it.

    Happy Driving :shades:
  • I replaced the O2 sensor a while ago, and the check engine light came on again regardless-so Volvo dealership was wrong, and I again failed smog test. Now another shop is seeing diagnostic codes of "mass air flow sensor" and "fuel trim" too lean or rich. It's somethign to do with fuel injection???

    Also about taillights. I put several different new bulbs in my brake light, and it still won't work. I've been told it's because the flat sheet thing that the bulb metal tongs screw onto contact with is bad and needs replacing. Unfortunately, the car at this point has cost over $2500 in 20 months, and it only has 136,000 miles. So much for Volvo reputation of lasting 300K +. The car is nothing but problems!
  • I think it's time for you to purchase a new car. ;)
  • zzonezzone Posts: 1
    still looking for a 240 wagon? I have a 85 240 turbo 4sp/od elec windows, cruise,factory alloy wheels extra nice body and running gear with 152,000 miles. If you or anyone are interested let me know. Thanks, Alan
  • My 240 quit. Inline fuel pump was bad. Replaced it with a used one and also got a new relay. No electricity at the terminals. Does this mean the in-tank fuel pump is bad or something else? If so, What?
  • Do you want to sell your 89 wagon?
  • bryanjoybryanjoy Posts: 4
    well i just found this site, but i have had the same problem with my 240dl wagon too. i found out it was the fuel relay( located under the carpet on the front passenger floorboard up against the firewall by the main computer)
    i had a mechanic replace it, but he screwed up and made it so i had to put in, and take out a fuse every time i wanted to start and stop the car. so i fixed that problem by wiring in a switch and located the switch on my dashboard.

    i know im a bit late with this solution, but there you have it anyway. its the fuel relay going out that causes the intermittent stalling.
  • bryanjoybryanjoy Posts: 4
    ">well hello everyone. i purchased a 84 240dl wagon in 2002 for $800.00 from origional owner. older lady who barely drove it, and garaged it always. the reason she sold it so cheap was that she thought it needed major engine work. when i first tried to start it, it would not turn over. i opened up the hood and found that the #1 and #3 spark plug wires were off the plugs. i reconnected them, and proceded to start the car. upon firing i kept my foot on the gas to warm it up a bit. after i let off the gas it stalled. i thought this weird as it was an automatic. so i started it again, and as i let off the gas (slowly) i watched the tack. dismayed, and jaw in my lap as i watched it drop below 500rpm then stall again. at this point i went back under the hood and adjusted the idler control and brought the idle speed just above 1,000rpm, and she ran relatively smoothly. i immediatly gave the lady $250.00 and asked her to take the for sale sign out of the window, and agreed to pay her the rest at the end of the week when i got paid.
    i have been runing that same volvo since. took it to hell, beyond, and back several times. she has held up like a champion, and i am proud to have found her. she had imaculate interior, and origional paint and body( no scratches or dents), AND only 116,000 miles when i bought her. thats about 5,000 miles a year.
    now the sad part of my story is that her veins( wiring) is deteriating, and i have had to creat switches just to keep her running. reverse lights, fuel relay, ignition, windows, starter, and license plate light are all on new switches and temp wiring. i have searched for weeks looking for a new wiring harness for the whole car( not just the engine). im begining to think she will be lost to the junk yard if i cant get some help soon. there r new problems weekly, and im begining to lose hope.
    if there is someone out there that has a 84 240dl wagon that is just sitting around and has no use for it, i would love to have the wiring harness, or if there is someone that is selling a 84 240dl wagon please let me know. i found one on ebay, but cant afford that price. please help.
  • vlhatchvlhatch Posts: 7
    How can one make an 86 240 DL Volvo stall? My mechanics say that if we could figure out how to make it stall, we might be able to fix it. They have driven it for miles with two of them in the vehicle at the ready with gauges etc. to detect and analyze the problem on the spot. They have each experienced the stalling phenomenon and are eager to discover the cause of the problem and solve it.
  • bryanjoybryanjoy Posts: 4
    i have found only 2 reasons that a 240 DL would stall.
    1: the idle is too low, which dont seem to be the problem since they have been driving it around for a while.
    2: which is the 1 that got me started in rigging mine with switches. the fuel relay is intermittenly causing the car to stall because it is about to fail completely. it is located under the carped at the passengers feet bu the computer. its a little square relay, and can be replaced easily. if this doesnt help, then im not sure what else it could be.
    hope this helps you in your quest to fix the proble.
  • miata2miata2 Posts: 2
    Take off one of the battery cables for a few seconds when you put the cable back on the car will start with the light off. Make sure that you have the code for the stereo if it's the original factory model. After markets don't have a code I am aware of.
    If the light comes back on but the car runs smooth at idle and start in cold weather you may need to run some fuel cleaner.

    The car has a computer with a code system that tells what area is in need of attention.

    I have owned 5 240 volvos and my experience with the check engine light is fuel/ air mixture.
  • miata2miata2 Posts: 2
    I had the same problem with a 93 240;

    After about a year of trying different things I found a local mechanic that had a volvo and he put on a rebuilt mass air flow meter and the car runs like new. The part and labor was less than 75.00 dollars.

    New mass air meters are about 300.00 and up.
  • rwilson3rwilson3 Posts: 3
    I have installed a vacuum gauge (why? to fill a vacant gauge location) in my '91 240 wagon. When I start-up, the the gauge registers around 20+/- inches which I believe is okay. However, when I start driving (city) the vacuum will dip all of the way to 0 inches and will stay in the 5-10" range. I'm sure that the vacuum will drop during acceleration; however, is this much of a drop normal?

    I have read that vacuum gauges are good instruments for indicating several types of possible engine problems. Being a very inexperienced mechanic, what are some engine trouble signs that a vacuum gauge will show besides a vacuum leak, etc.

    Thanks!
  • 240_guy240_guy Posts: 1
    What is the easiest way to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and is it right or left-hand treads?
  • I suppose that I should feel shortchanged. My 1985 240 GL Wagon has 105,000 miles on the odometer, and has yet to give me any problems of any kind. The service has been kept to the letter, and the only parts that the wagon has required is brake pads, plugs, belts, hoses and wiper blades. Am I looking at any problems in the near future? If so, I will probably get rid of the old boat. It would be a shame, since the leather still looks like nearly new, and the finish is original and still shines. I guess that keeping it in the garage does help. :shades:
  • fdebragfdebrag Posts: 2
    Can someone please tell me the difference between a 240 and a "classic" 240?
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