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Volvo 240 Wagons



  • With most commodities, the difference is the price. Seems as though when the term, "Classic" is applied, the price goes up...
  • The Volvo 240 Classic was a special edition of the 240. Only 1,600 were produced in April and May of 1993, half wagons and half sedans; fully equipped interior, body-matched painted grilles and side mirrors, special 14" alloy wheels, "Classic" badges on hatch/decklid, production-number plaque in dash, and special paint colors — ruby red or metallic dark teal green. There are also, however, some classics without all this equipment. Some 1992 model year classics were produced as early as 1991.

  • bervo119bervo119 Posts: 1
    What city are you in? I have a 84 240dl wagon that I want to sell.
    Cheers. Brad
  • bryanjoybryanjoy Posts: 4
    i am in Bullhead City, AZ. you can reach me directly at
    or by phone at (714) 791-4262 cell phone
    lets talk
  • jedbjedb Posts: 1

    I have an '88 240 wagon which won't shift into fourth gear. Fuse #11 is fine. I replaced the overdrive relay hoping that was it but no luck. I can still toggle the "4th gear disconnect" light on the dash on and and off with the button on the stick. Transmission fluid is good and the kickdown cable looks ok, it has not been adjusted for a long time.

    Where do I go from here?

  • nquigleynquigley Posts: 1
    My son's '91 240 has identical problems, but the very experienced volvo mechanic we use is stumped. He refers to the way it runs as 'loping'. The voltage being supplied to the air mass meter is 1-2 tenths of a volt less than the min. voltage the AMM is meant to be getting, but he can't work out why.
    Does anyone know the various causes of low voltage supply to the AMM?
    He has switched many parts from a good 240, but none has fixed our problem (incl AMM, AMM's wiring harness, O2 sensor, computer, some idle switch position indicator?, and other bits and pieces).
  • I am desperately needing a new car and I have a love for Volvo design. I've always liked them and there is a 1987 240 DL wagon for sale that I have my eye on. It has 156k miles and appears to be in very nice shape for its age.

    I know everyone here is partial to them, but my family of course tells me that they are expensive to repair, and that a car that age may have hidden problems. Before buying the car, I will take it to the nearest Volvo service facility for an inspection, but I wanted to hear from some owners before purchasing as well.

    Are there any major problems, recalls, etc., that I should be aware of? Maybe an issue with that model and year that I should find out if it has been resolved?

    ANY feedback would be greatly appreciated. I am looking forward to becoming an owner soon, and would love some assistance! Thanks guys!


  • jetjrjetjr Posts: 1
    windshield wipers turn on and stay on when car is started and do not respond to wiper controls.

    initially, wipers would turn on automatically whenever the car went over a bump in the road. then a mechanic changed passenger-side hinge wires and the problem went away for a week. now the problem is back and actually worse because wipers are always on if the car is on.

    mechanic's next step would be to check entire wiring system under floormats, etc.

    any suggestions would help. thanks.
  • When I put the vehicle n gear intially, it feels like the brake is stuck and the car doesn't want to move, once I get going, the ABS brake light comes on around 60 MPH. My mechanic first found a bolt missing and replaced it. That didn't work. He then replaced the rotors, pads, brakes, and backing plates, that didn't fix it. He recently replaced the control arm, that didn't fix it. I am thousands of dollars in debt due to an ABS brake light. Does anyone know what the fix is for this problem???
  • tefftrtefftr Posts: 3
    :confuse: 1991 Volvo wagon w/196,000 mi. won't start. A mechanic friend traced it to electrical impulses (or lack of) to the fuel injector, by connecting a Bosch node to one of the electrical injectors contacts, with no signs of life. This was reinforced by spraying ether into the air intake, causing the engine to briefly run. There is sufficient gas reaching the injectors. Question:is there a relay between this car's computer unit and the fuel injectors. If so, where? My Bently 240 tech manual wiring diagram points to one, but we haven't been able to locate it. I want to eliminate a relay (if there is one), before writing off the computer unit. Any suggestions/help would be appreciated!!!
  • What does a Hall sensor do in a Volvo 240?
  • I have a 86 240 and am having the same problems of shifiting into 4th. It does sometimes. If i click the od switch a few times some times it shifts, or if i am driving a certain speed over 60 it will shift, a lot of times it don't shift into 4th.
    I have changed the filter/screen and oil, i messed up the gasket and replaced the oil and gasket again, then changed the solenoid with a new one at $165. and no luck, then i changed the relay at $45. and it still shifts when it wants to. sometimes hot, some times cold. The kick down cable seems ok too. I talked to a volvo mech at volvo and he ashured me that it was either the selenoid or relay, well both are replaced and it still does it. the white wire that goes from the shifter through the floor board to the solenoid is raw in a few places so i put some gorilla tape around it, that is the only thing left to do (i think) if i do need to replace it, how do i do it? PLEASE HELP, i want to get another 100 k out of it.
    Is the car suposed to automatically down shift when yo uhit 40 mph?
    Also, my aftermarket cruise control works about the same way, when it wants. I checked the lines and didn't find any leaks any suggestions to that?
  • It continues to be an ongoing problem for my '91 240 Wagon. Except, it consistently starts to behave normall after the first 15 minutes of driving. Then, it starts to magically shift to 4th. If I stop and shut down the engine for a few minutes and then go again, it will continue to work. But shut down long enough for "something" to cool off or whatever, no shifting for another 15 minutes. I've replaced the fluid, filter and added a transmission additive that has been recommended (and has shown to have worked according to other groups). It is a very frustrating problem. Not fatal, since the car will eventually start to shift properly...but nonetheless, frustrating since no Volvo mechanic-young or old-can get past the relay/solenoid fix. Anyway, if anyone has any revelations, any or all would be appreciated very much.
  • I'll answer my own e-mail in hopes this will help someone else. I had a Volvo specialist look at and correct this problem: The solution was a dual electro-mechanical relay module, located under the passenger side, near the Bosch computer unit, on the right. The module has a white cover, which can be pulled off. Inside are two electra-mechanical relays. One relay controls the fuel pump and the other sends a signal to the computer unit, to enable the the fuel injectors. Apparently, there was a hairline crack in the relays' circuit board, which caused the intermittent starts. My "Brick" is back to its road worthy self, once again.
  • Stalling started in September 2006. Dealer tried to cure. Gave up. Local foreign auto repair shop worked on vehicle for several months trying different remedies. Finally, about ready to give up, they installed a Hall's sensor in the distributor (if I understand correctly); and, I haven't had a stall incident since. Thank you.
  • I broke the manual antenna (car wash fatality) off my 240 and had the bright idea to replace it with a power antenna unit. Antenna showed up without an "installation kit"and I was told by a dealer there isn't one available :(.
    I can deal with some fabrication on my own but the upper bolt that supports the antenna and keeps it from falling into the trunk does not fit the power unit ( manual antenna stud is smaller diameter. Volvo does not have the larger bolt and rubber boot available anymore for '92 sedan !!! HELP..........
  • tefftrtefftr Posts: 3
    An update on my random non-starting Volvo: I probably wasted about 200 dollars for a dual relay (the one with a white plastic cover, located under the passenger side dash, near the Jetronic computer) and associated labor. About a week after the relay replacement, my Volvo resumed it's start and no-start episodes. Long story short: Fifth fuse down from the top, a 16A fuse. A casual look revealed nothing, not blown and the fuse seemed in place. But, when I reached down to remove and examine it, I found it was loose in its holder. One side of the fuse was blackened and pitted, from arcing! So, by cleaning, tightening the holder, and replacing the 16A fuse, I have been trouble free for several weeks. The moral of this for me (and skilled mechanics as well.) Start with the basics, and don't assume anything!
  • Glad it was a simple fix but sorry you wasted $200 on the other repair first.
  • Check to see if you're getting spark. If so, check the fuel system. The fuel filter seem to get clogged easily, but at least it's easy to get to. (big canistor on the firewall, right hand side.) Same thing to my Volvo 240, I checked the Fuel Pump then change Volvo 240 fuel injectors. And also have a check up in your Electrical System.
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