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Volvo 240 Wagons

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  • I am working on my wife's 1993 240 SW alternator. New 80A alternator is in, but dash light does not come on. I know the lamp is an integral part of the circuit. How do I get to this lamp to replace it? Thanks
  • Still working on wife's 240 SW, 1993. Bulb in dash battery charging light is OK. Alternator is OK, ground (blue wire) is OK. I do NOT get 12V at the red (B+) pole on alternator, only 9V. Fuse No. 13 is OK, none appear blown. Need to find where the problem is with the charging circuit. Need to trace the wiring to the charge indicator lamp. What do I check, where and how? Thanks
  • So, while waiting for a reply to my two previous posts requesting help, I have continued to trace what I can in the wiring.

    I can get 12V at the little red wire to the D+ alternator pole IF it is not connected to the alternator. Once connected it drops to 9.5-near10V, but not 12.

    Dash light is dim, does not light up when key is switched to II, glows dimly in the dark whle engine is running.

    I have slow charged my battery several times to make sure I have juice to drive from A to B while trying to figure this out. While on the charger/tester it shows 14V, but once off it drops to 12V at best on the charger and a multimeter scale. I now believe that the alternator and charging circuit are fine, but the battery is dying, maybe a weak cell. Can anybody verify having gone through this problem with same or similar results? What was your end result? Thanks
  • bocatripbocatrip Posts: 194
    After many years of ownership,l sold my 1988 240 with 209,000 miles. I have owned numerous 240s and can say with all honesty, that these cars do have indestructable engines and automatic transmissions. However, just about everything else on the 240 is self destructive and costs are astronomical. This is why we see fewer and fewer of these cars on the road after the last 93 model. However, we still see a zillion very old Toyotas and Hondas. The Volvo 240 although quite reliable as far as "not breaking down" should really be considered a high maintanance car, which it is.
  • tbentleytbentley Posts: 3
    I bought my 93 240 wagon 15 years ago and have now 306,000 miles on it. It has been a great car and has an admirable reliability record. I hope to put another 200, 000 on it before it is replaced. It is a safe commuting vehicle and will be my oldest daughter's first car...
  • bocatripbocatrip Posts: 194
    One last thing I wanted to add to my 240 expierence. I actually was considering to give my trusted 88 240 with 209K to my daughter as a gift. However, the main reason I decided against it was due to the cars lack of power. Every time I had to get the car onto the hightway I was white knuckling it. It's fine for city driving, but getting onto or passing on highways was down right frightening.
  • tbentleytbentley Posts: 3
    We live in rural northeast Georgia so getting onto highways and such is not a problem. I drive it through Atlanta with no problems...you just have to plan ahead...She will not be driving anywhere close to Atlanta, just local...She will be able to drive the suv if she needs to go further out. She is not a great driver and the idea of slow and safe is comforting...
  • mrwrickmrwrick Posts: 6
    After ending my attempts to figure out the 93 240 alternator problem myself I took the new one off and brought it back to the shop where I bought it. They tested it, found the regulator to be bad and replaced it. No problems now. I have to learn to trust the readings I get.

    Latest is I just got back from a 400 mile R/T from sea level in San Francisco to over 7300 feet in the Sierra Nevada. Despite no extra power in climbing I was able to get where I was going, including a load of 3 guys over 200 lbs, up and over the 7380 foot pass a coupe times, Got 27 MPG over 275 of thos miles, including all the climbing. I am still a believer.

    But, due to the continual need for diagnosis and treatment of little nagging problems I will not give it to my son as his first car. I get to keep it for myself, happily. He will get a Toyota,
  • smakingsmaking Posts: 1
    I have owned my 1993 Volvo 240 Classic since January of 09. I have always wanted a Volvo. I am not a mechanic and I don't know much about cars. I have just been doing some research online to try and figure out why I have spent over $900 in the past 3 months on this car. I took it in and was told the oxygen sensor was bad which was why the check engine light was on. Had that fixed, light stayed off for about a week then came back on. Took it back in and now was told that some valve in the air filter needed replaced as it was sticking open. Got that fixed (and ended up having to buy a new radiator cap because my mechanic lost mine) check engine light was off for two days before coming back on again. Then the car started dying sometimes when I stopped. Not every time but often. Every time I stop though it starts making noises and jerking. I have found a new mechanic that I am taking it to this week. After reading these posts I think my Volvo is not the only one with these kinds of issues. I don't know anything about cars and there is no way I could rig some kind of switch if that's the issue. So what else can I do but dump $900 dollars more into it? Any ideas or suggestions? I really love Volvo's and I think they are great cars and have a great reputation. I'd really like to keep my car but I'm starting wonder if that's even possible. Have I been wrong all this time thinking Volvo's were great cars? Help!
  • gokempsgokemps Posts: 2
    $1,290 OBO

    Located in Greensboro, NC

    203,000 miles

    "Classic", 1 of 1600 made and the last year 240 was produced

    http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=262205107&dealer_id=64134891&ct=p
  • lostcrowlostcrow Posts: 2
    Looking for very good condition (rustfree, working lock, wiper motor,) rear hatch for 1986 240 DL Wagon. Near Ithaca, NY.
  • lostcrowlostcrow Posts: 2
    Searching for Volvo salvage upste NY.
  • moosepowermoosepower Posts: 1
    Someone posted this similar type description of symptoms on ipdusa.com and on
    brickboard.com and on vlvworld.com.
    The solution pointed to the AMM (air mass meter) to be causing this problem.
    Also, as an extra measure of assurance, make sure all the rubber and plastic hoses in the engine compartment are connected well. Air leaks in one of these hoses cause some of the weirdest and hardest to diagnose problems. Same goes for all electrical connectors too. Good luck!
  • belacbelac Posts: 1
    I am going to replace my ignition wires and fuel pump relay. Is it better to get the Bougicord with metal tips or rubber tips, and secondly where the heck is the fuel pump relay. I have a 1984 240 Volvo
  • dlukjandlukjan Posts: 1
    Was reading several posts earlier before I decided to see if my brother's fuel pump was the problem. Here is what I found. Fuel Pump relay is behind the carpet up high on the passenger side of the car on the firewall. It is usually white. I asked him to turn key while I listened and held the relay. No sound and could not feel the relay click when he turned the key off and on. There is a 20 amp fuse holder located under the hood on the drivers side above wheel well near the battery that sometimes corrodes. I pulled out the fuse, cleaned the tabs on the fuse connectors and reinserted. Wallah! He turned the key and the relay clicked and motor started. That fuse under the hood basically controls the whole shibang.
  • scott132scott132 Posts: 1
    I am the proud owner of a 1980 245 DL. I have rather been through the vehicle. replacing alt, brakes, lines, timing belt, lots of other sundry items. 2 weeks after getting it back on the road, my transmission is now stuck in low gear. I have checked the kickdown cable externally and it seems to be functioning.. I intend to change the fluid and filter at the beginning of the week. I do wonder though if I am looking at a lost cause, or if there is any hope of rescuing the transmission. Other than that, and struts sometime in the future, the vehicle is clean and runs quite well. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • You should be able to pick up another Transmission from a Bone yard.
    If it still has less than 1,000,000 + you have a way to go.
    I have a 1992 Volvo 240gl that is giving me some electrical issue, will not spark, but determined to get it back on the road. Volvo are great cars never give them up for a lost causes. :)
  • I have a 240 GL that is having a spark issue. I have replaced everything but the ECM which I hope it is not that. The Wife was accelerating from a stop light and it died no sputter nothing, it cranks well, Timing belt is intact, replace crank sensor, MAF, TPS, Fuel relays both Fuel pumps, Ignition control Module and coil. Fuses are all good.
    I guess ECM is next, I hope not.
  • How to access recessed hex nut in Volvo 240 wagon lift gate hinge? It's pressed against recessed rim in the lift gate, so I can't wrap around to grab it. I have to get out this nut to remove the hinge so I can insert a new harness cable into the lift gate. Very frustrating, seems impossible to grab the nut, but the hinge and lift gate seem normal, nothing shifted, and I assume there is a trick I don't understand to grab the nut. Thanks!!!!
  • link">i have a 1982 volvo 245DL wagon with 298,968 miles on it
    the car runs great when i can get it started.
    the problem i am having is when you turn the key to start
    the motor starts but when you turn the key to run the motor dies.
    i have been working on this problem for a while an need some help
  • two weeks ago, my '83 240 wagon completely cut out while driving 50 mph. no electrical or power at all and when tried to restart, absolutely no power to anything. had it towed to an electric specialist who jumped it, checked battery, alternator and complete electrical diagnostic and couldnt find anything wrong. drove fine for another 10 days and then the same thing just happened.
    any ideas? thanks!
  • will not shift into OD replaced trans solenoid and OD relay. OD switch appears to be working light goes on and off when pressed. can the kickdown cable have anything to do with the OD problem.180,000 miles on original trans . any thoughts would be helpful How much will the kickdown cable cost to replace Labor only
  • mrwrickmrwrick Posts: 6
    Had similar problem with 93 240 wagon trans, would not shift into O/D. Turned out it was the fuse for the O/D shifter, not solenoid or cable. Try it.
  • Just purchased a 86 DL 240 wagon. 214000 mileage on her now. Seems to be tip top
    but it doesn't like starting below half tank o' gas. I've got about a year to make this beauty worthy of a cross country trip. Any tips on where to start the revamping process.
  • geogeo Posts: 23
    Wagonrollin, If I recall these have two fuel pumps .... if the one in the gas tank has a hose come off or stops working then you need more fuel in the tank to get adequate pressure to run right. See this post for detailed info: http://cleanflametrap.com/transferPump.htm

    George in Wisconsin
  • mrwrickmrwrick Posts: 6
    I have an intermittent starting problem in my 93 240 wagon, 138,000 miles ONLY. Sometimes, possibly after driving it and getting it hot, then after stopping, engine off, and getting back in to go somewhere else, when key is turned the dash lights all come on but NO sound or cranking from starter. Also, when this happens the shifter cannot be moved, even after pushing shift lock override button. Then, after sitting some time it will start, but this can take an hour, until it all cools down. I used to have this problem with a VW Bug starter, but that was a standard trans and it could be bump started, not so with this auto trans. What is it? How to fix? Thanks
  • I'm trying to install a new latch mechanism on the rear seat of my 91 240 wagon. It appears that I need to remove the rear seat back to access the assembly. The bottom of the rear seat itself is simple to remove but I'm unable to remove the seat back. Repair manuals are unclear on the specifics of replacing this mechanism. Can someone instruct me on how to unlatch and remove the seat back? I think I can deal with it from there. Thanks.
  • juttep1juttep1 Posts: 2
    I own a 1989 DL 240 wagon with 227,5xx miles on it. runs like a champ. idles quieter than some of my friends new cars. runs smooth at all RPMs and never has let me down. Doesn't burn any oil and even starts on cold winter morning. just thought i'd throw that out there.

    good luck with whatever you choose.

    cheers.
  • juttep1juttep1 Posts: 2
    1989 Volvo 240DL Wagon.
    2.3L I4.
    Runs great through all RPMs. Even idles really smooth.
    Only issue is sometimes it has difficulty starting; sometimes a lot of difficulty.
    Sometimes, more rarely, it back fires slightly.

    what it's not:

    its not the coil; had it checked.
    its not the battery; had it checked.
    it's not the spark plugs; they're new.

    maybe something with the timing? but i wouldn't think it would idle and run so well if so.

    maybe the starter is going out?? Can you get a starter tested?

    maybe a fuel pump? if it's a fuel pump i'd get an electric inline one and just mount a switch powering it on the dash b/c i don't think i'm qualified to drop the tank out and get a new one.

    qutie the perplexing car.

    Any help is appreciated greatty

    :confuse:

    -Paul J
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