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BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • dukiedougdukiedoug Posts: 10
    Thanks for your input. I will definitely keep that in mind. However, I think I have decided on going with the infiniti g35, their power seats have more than enough lift for me. But thanks again for your suggestion. I definitely do like the 5 series and will not rule them out of my next purchase.
  • cindysuecjcindysuecj Posts: 2
    My battery is completely dead and we are trying to figure out how to replace it...all we can find from the manual is that it is in the trunk...what next? Also, after reading some posts, it sounds like it might just need to be recharged..is it best to jump it with another car or to use a Battery Tender..if so, how do we do it? How long should an original battery last? I have not been driving it much and maybe have gradually drained it? Mileage is 63K. Please help!!
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,015
    If it's completely dead you should probably go ahead and get a new battery. I've had good luck with Interstate batteries. The MTP-H7 is the one you want. And yes, if you don't drive the car very much I'd invest in a good battery tender, such as the one BMW sells.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • cindysuecjcindysuecj Posts: 2
    I charged the battery on 2005 525i after it was completely dead. Now it will start, but the wipers are on and will not turn off! HELP! I thought maybe it had to do with resetting something? went to the computer to look, and message came up saying:

    pass. restraint malfunction
    cruise control malfunction
    wind shield wiper malfunction

    Any ideas? Would installing a brand new battery help or is this different? It all started when the battery died.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,641
    Burner is right, probably a new battery is in order. And NEVER jump start a totally completely dead battery in any event, no matter what you choose to do. You could lose the top of your head, which you will probably need. Charge up the old one *slowly*.
  • davis101davis101 Posts: 5
    you must check the alternator--replaced my battery before i checked it and could have saved some money. oh well new battery is good for 7 yeaars.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,641
    Oh I think burner and I (if I may speak for him) were talking about how if a battery discharges completely and totally, it is usually injured by that process and thus its normal lifespan no longer applies.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,015
    I've also found that bad batteries can cause all sorts of mischief in the newer gadget-laden Bimmers. Inoperative switches, phantom fault indications- you name it.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,641
    computers freak out if voltage drops below a minimum, no doubt about it. And modern cars have something like 75 microprocessors in them.
  • redflearedflea Posts: 16
    I have my 1995 530i (small block 3.0 liter V8) in at a local indie shop. They have a factory trained BMW mechanic who is having problems solving a problem...I get sudden power loss at about 4000 RPM.

    If I get up to that RPM, the power loss is complete until the revs fall, and the check engine light comes on.

    Any thoughts as to what to look for, things to check/try? My mechanic is stuck and scratching his head...the short block was replaced under warranty in 1999, so it isn't related to the old problem with sulfur and the original alusil engine blocks in the mid-90s V8s.

    Thanks!
  • davis101davis101 Posts: 5
    Try the fuel pump regulator filter. It took 4 different shops to recognize this problem. Strange filter setup on bimmers.
    David
  • redflearedflea Posts: 16
    Thanks...so you had a similar problem w/power loss at a certain RPM that was resolved by the filter?
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,641
    fuel pressure---yes, good idea.

    Also, has he by-passed or tested the catalytic or checked for a damaged (crunched) exhaust pipe.

    What code is the engine light throwing?
  • redflearedflea Posts: 16
    Thanks - I didn't get the code before I took it in, and forgot to ask them.

    I'll pass on the suggestion regarding the catalytic, the exhaust pipe is fine, I did take a look at the underside of the car for another reason, and didn't see anything out of the ordinary.
  • tcsyktcsyk Posts: 1
    :confuse: I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW HOW TO REMOVE THE DOOR PANEL ON A 2004 BMW 5 SERIES.
  • ny540i6ny540i6 Posts: 518
    Had the 4 wheel alignment done on the 540 yesterday, since I've switched over to the summer Goodyears a few weeks ago. Was pleasantly surprised at how many of my "before" readings were in spec. The anal part of me looks at the "after" results and wishes that the car was identical in all measurements side to side, but...

    I also finally changed the battery, after having one or two instances where I had to roll start the car (manual tranny, fortunately). I've gone since '03 and 149K miles on the original, so no complaints there. I'm using an Interstate MTP93 as the replacement.

    On another note, I'm looking to replace/upgrade the rotors, and maybe the pads. I don't want a big brake kit, don't want cross drilled, might be willing to consider slotted or dimpled. All I'm looking for is an antidote to the warping/vibration that I sometimes get after a couple high speed slowdowns. It goes away once the rotors cool, but it is still annoying.

    Any suggestions are welcomed.
  • lovemyclklovemyclk Posts: 351
    Just replaced my battery and alternator care of BMW on my '03 530SP. OEM battery lasted 55K miles, but believe the alternator was the cause. Also had my rotors/pads replaced when buying my new PZero Nero's from my Custom Wheel/Tire shop in Atlanta - also the high-speed on car balance.

    Went with BMW-spec rotors/pads, not the cross-drilled options from Baer or Brembo. Never had any warping on the originals, just wore them down.
  • lovemyclklovemyclk Posts: 351
    My recent drive from FL to Atlanta over Memorial Day introduced my beautiful '03 e39 to some road gravel on the FL Turnpike outside Orlando. Have some deep pits and a 4" hairline crack right at the rear-view mirror location. Just damn :mad:

    Mainly an aesthetic concern, but does anyone have experience and recommendations for replacing the windshield?

    Many thanks!
  • ny540i6ny540i6 Posts: 518
    I've repaced a windshield about 30K miles ago. First the bad news: That crack will probably spread, so sooner or later you are gonna need new glass. Don't waste your time with those services that promise to "repair" the pitting or stop the crack - it don't work too good :cry: I know, I blew $50 on "fixing" a chip.

    Now the good news: The E39 is rigid enough that it handles removal/replacement well. The new one is most probably going to be tougher - the original glass is somewhat soft, and pits easily. My replacement is not looking sandblasted yet. Any reputable glass house will do the job, and it should cost a couple hundred bucks.
  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 16,385
    I'm wishing for one of those cracks on my MY 2000 5 Series, with 105K it has a badly pitted windshield which I'd love to be able to replace courtesy of my comprehensive.
    ;)

    Funny thing is, I drive on rough unpaved roads all the time and The Blue Max is as solid as ever, windshield included, despite a small chip on the glass.
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