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BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair



  • manillamanilla Posts: 3
    Will be picking up my new 06 530i............anyone know of any problems that I should look for. I am a first time BMW owner.
  • printmorprintmor Posts: 3
    anyone ever hear of front sway bar bushings going at 68,000 miles?? The dealer is telling me I need new bushings, they should last longer than that, I do mostly highway driving. Any one have any info??
  • jlbljlbl Posts: 1,333
    I think there is no problem to expectantly wait for… everything should be just OK.

    Read the instruction manual when playing quietly with iDrive with the car stopped.

    You should broke in the engine as close to the recommended rpm limit as possible. Spent a little time driving in low regime, though. In doing all that, you should not keep the engine at a constant rpm regime for too long. The best is to go playfully up and down with the gears—without falling into an obsessive sate of mind.

    Relax yourself and enjoy!

  • Did you complain to the dealer about a front-end problem? Sway bar bushings should last a long time. Failure is usually accompanied by squeaking/creaking or clunking noise in the front end when going over bumps.

  • It's probably too late, but if you can, check the date code on the battery. Some dealers have these things sitting on the shelf forever...

  • Does the idle 'hunt' a bit when you first start it when it's cold outside? If so, this could be a problem with the VANOS solenoid (vanos is bmw's variable valve timing). This is a fairly common problem with this motor.

  • printmorprintmor Posts: 3
    yes, I complained, and they said the "wearable" parts in the front end were not covered by the cpo warrantee. I agree the bushings shouldn't go so soon. I also called the regional BMW rep and complained. I think I was just yessed off the phone. I doubt that anyone will do anything for me. I'm also going to get a second opinion from a private mechanic. Don't know what else I can do.
  • jasjas Posts: 115
    There is always problems with s/w - especially the first year.

    I got a 04-545i (July 04 build) just because I did not want to wait. I had a s/w upgrade in November for blue tooth and to correct some ECM problems, although I did not notice anything.

    BMW is constantly upgrading the s/w, which if you are having problems, the should upgrade for you
  • abmwguyabmwguy Posts: 15
    Bookmark | Reply | E-mail Msg

    I have ordered a 06 530i and I checked the status and it inidcated that it is in an "In Transit" status. Does anyone know the average time a car is "In Transit and how long it stays at the Vehicle Processing Center............and then on to the dealer?

    Where are the Vehicle Processing Center's?

    I am a first time BMW owner.

  • 95525nj95525nj Posts: 1
    I apologize for not having a response to this posting but I have a question regarding
    a 1995 BMW 525i and I can't seem to find a forum relating to it. Does anybody
    know of a problem with the gas tank where it seems to deflate like a balloon which
    in turns smashes the sending unit. It happened once, and I replaced the sending
    unit. About a year later, it has now happened again!!!! Any ideas?? My mechanic
    doesn't seem to know with the exception of replacing the tank & the sending unit.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Hmmm, alright, first a disclaimer: I've never had the chance to play around with your vintage of 5er. That said, I have a theory...

    Factoid #1) Mother Nature provides us with something around 14.9 pounds per square inch of air pressure at sea level.

    Factoid #2) If you remove sufficient fuel and vapor pressure from a fuel tank of any construction, Mother Nature will cause said fuel tank to "git all stove in lookin"

    Factoid #3) The fuel pumps of every fuel injection system that I've seen on any BMW that I've looked at since the days of the old Bosch-K Jetronic (1970s) has had enough verve to pump a tank quite dry, regardless of how much the outer walls of the tank are fighting against the pump.

    If you put all of that together, and then add in a clogged tank vent, you will get a collapsed tank. Period, full stop, the end.

    Regarding your car, my guess is that it is an ODB-I type of emission system, which if I'm not mistaken means that you are supposed to have a vented fuel filler cap. Assuming that this is correct (and your mechanic should be able to easily verify where the vent is), then I'd start by replacing the fuel cap. If I’m wrong, then replace the plumbing that fills the tank with fresh air as the fuel is consumed

    One other thing comes to mind; I've heard that if you "Milk" you tank so full that you can see the fuel up in the filler neck, that the fuel itself can interfere with the tank vent, and cause it to collapse. Among other reasons, this is a great argument for filling your tank only to the point where the pump clicks off, then hang it up and don't milk any more fuel into the car.

    I hope some of this helps.

    Best Regards,
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    What Shipo said. You problem is a textbook symptom of a fault in the fuel tank venting system. Any competent mechanic should know that. If your mechanic is stumped by such a simple problem you need to find a mechanic that actually knows what he/she is doing. Local CCA members should have some good leads.
  • adareadare Posts: 6
    I am the proud Australian owner of a very low miles 530i. Can anyone shed some light on the following? From day one temp guage was up to mid range reading (straight North/south) within 120 seconds. Odd?? Recently, it now travels much more slowly to that position, say 4mins at city street speed but does not fall back a fraction which in other cars suggests that the thermostat has just correctly opened.
    Should I be concerned? Is it a quick/easy (plug in to the ?) thermostat check for the dealer? Appreciate any advice, thanks
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Your temperature gauge isn't really a temperature gauge. It is a needle that is controlled by a computer that sort of approximates how a temperature gauge should work under normal operating conditions, and once the engine is in the proper "Operating Range", it will show "Due North", and only "Due North". Back when BMW was getting bad auxiliary cooling fans, the owners of the affected cars would see the gauge reading as normal one moment, and then the very next moment, the engine would overheat and the gauge would peg itself all of the way to the right.

    FWIW, this isn't just a BMW issue; I've seen it on virtually every late model car I've driven that still has a temperature gauge. My bet is that it is another one of those wonderful mandated bits that are part of the ODB-II specification. :mad: Is it any wonder why BMW finally dropped the temperature gauge all together for the new E90?

    Best Regards,
  • adareadare Posts: 6
    Thanks for that, appreciated! 2 things, forgive the Australian for asking, what is ODB-II? Is there any need to check operation of thermostat?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    ODB-II??? Sorry, my bad. I should have said OBD-II, which stands for On Board Diagnostics Version 2.

    OBD-II started showing up on all cars sold in America in the mid 1990s, and it is supposed to provide a universal service, diagnostic and error code interface for all manufacturers' cars. There are lots of sites on the web that go into fairly good detail about the system, here is one:

    As for your thermostat, no, I don't see any reason to test it.

    Best Regards,
  • adareadare Posts: 6
    Again, thank you for your reply. I look forward to speaking with you on other areas of interest in due course, regards, Adare
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    The temperature gauge first became a glorified idiot light on the E34 Fives. My friend Mark Calabrese took ED of one in 1989 and we couldn't figure out why the gauge never budged off center. Ditto for my E36. I don't think it has anything to do with OBD-II. Rather, it's a way to pacify inept drivers who worry that the temp needle moves around too much. And this idiocy is a growing trend; my 1999 Wrangler still has accurate gauges but sometime after 2001 D-C switched them over to idiot light mode. Including the oil pressure gauge!
    BMW explained the absence of a temp gauge in the E90 at the world press introduction. They claimed that they analyzed the longevity of engines used in BMW police cars in Germany and found that it doesn't hurt to hammer them from a cold start, so that's their story and they're sticking to it. Calabrese and I think that BMW should just go ahead and make the jump to a "glass cockpit", which would give each driver the ability to customize the IP display. Gearheads could have digital or graphic readouts of everything they wanted while poseurs and the clueless could just request a speedometer-and maybe a multi color flashing "DUB" symbol... ;)
  • davis177davis177 Posts: 5
    I just got my 2005 525 yesterday. While going through the Bluetooth hook up, the sales assistant could not figure out how to down load the phone book. My phone reads it self paired to BMW64802, and the car showed it self paired to Nokia 6820. They brought over a tech and he said my phone would not work with the car since it was not an approved phone. I walked away with my tail between my legs, since this was one of the features that I had to have to purchase a specific vehicle, but the deal was done at that point.
    When I was driving the car home I made a call, and all of a sudden it worked, and to try this out again, I made another call and it worked again, how cool was this.
    When I got home I tried to show my wife this cool feature I had been talking about for the last several months, and now it does not work. The phone still shows itself paired to the car, but the car does not show itself paired to the phone.
    Any solutions, before I go out and am forced to buy a new phone?
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,020
    While waiting for a 5-series owner to respond, you might find this topic interesting/helpful.

    Bluetooth Technology

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