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BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,908
    It is a known issue. BMW has been paying for the parts (if out of warranty) and you pay the labor,typically an hour.

    Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think that BMW NA is only paying for parts when replacing the high level MID found on the E39 540i and M5. Still can't hurt to ask, I suppose...

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport 1975 2002A 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 1999 Wrangler 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2009 328i Son's: 2004 X3 2.5

  • jb_shinjb_shin Posts: 357
    I think you are right, but the same MID was available as option on the lesser e39s. I had it on my 02 530.
  • tanker4tanker4 Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 525 and I purchased the 100000 mile warranty. The usually take it in if I have a problem or when the oil light turns yellow. I only have 80 miles left until I go over 100000 miles, should I take it in now or can I take it in. Is there a set 100000 mile service or does BMW use the oil light to schedule service, if I let it go over will I end up paying for all of the little parts filters etc.
  • warthogwarthog Posts: 216
    I have a 2003 530i (E39), several months out of warranty. When cornering right a bit harder than normal, or when turning right at a tight intersection, I hear a groaning noise from the front left wheel well. This happens with right turns only so I do not believe it's the power steering pump. Any ideas? Thanks.
  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 16,757
    Coiuld be a bad wheel bearing, ball joint or tie rod end, all of which yo0u don't want to fool with. I'd have it checked out.

    2000 BMW 528i, 2001 BMW 330CiC

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 46,004
    sounds like a strut mount or bearing.

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  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 31,257
    Control arms/bushings?

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 46,004
    Yeah, BMW is notorious for that but that's more of a thunk, not a groan, isn't it?

    Certainly worth checking though, excellent suggestion for any BMW making noise up front.

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  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 31,257
    Yes.. more of a thunk..

    However, it seems they are shot, every time they are checked... symptoms or not... :surprise:

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  • warthogwarthog Posts: 216
    No, definitely a groan, like two parts rubbing together.

    Thanks for all the replies.
  • sydney14sydney14 Posts: 3
    :lemon: I had same problem with steering. After several visits, the entire steering column was replaced. Still hear it but rarely.
  • sydney14sydney14 Posts: 3
    I own 545i with Sport package and my first set of tires were roaring at 5000 mi. Dealer told me to drive my car more aggressively. After many complaints, they replaced the set at no charge. When the second set did the same thing and I had had numerous other visits, they replaced them again at no charge. There is a problem there they won't admit to. The tires sound like mud grips on a 4 wheel drive. This is my first and LAST BMW...big maintenance. :lemon:
  • sydney14sydney14 Posts: 3
    I own 545i 2004. Has anyone had transmission leakage? My car has been in 3 times in the last month for fluid leak. BMW finally replaced the complete pan and gasket. Don't know yet if it eliminated the problem. Car has 67,000 mi. :lemon:
  • udive200udive200 Posts: 1
    George, If you don't mind email me and let me know what you found out about the problem above. I have the same car same year doing the same thing, rough idle and after giving it gas it runs fine. Thanks Sean Sullivan spsullivan@cox.net
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Forest Lakes, AZPosts: 3,316
    Sean,

    Couple of things -- first, george. . . posted a month short of two years ago and hasn't been heard from since. He posted once -- if you put your arrow on the screen name, it'll tell you how many posts the person has, when they last posted, etc. You're very unlikely to hear from him, but there are others who prowl these boards regularly who may be able to help. Good luck.

    Second, don't post your e-mail address in the body of your post. You can put it in your profile if you like & leave it public. The robots that troll for addresses won't find it there.

    I can't help you. I'm just a BMW wannabe. Welcome aboard!
  • tlouietlouie Posts: 20
    This will be my first Bimmer, a 2008 528xi, does anyone know if the vehicle should be serviced more than the regular service intervals covered under free maintenance? oil change one a year seems like a long time. I am buying this vehicle vs. leasing. ANd what is actually needed for the first 4 years and does it pay to buy extended 2 yr. maintenance plan?
  • jdkochjdkoch Posts: 4
    The A/C blower fan is making a loud clicking sound as if
    something is interfering with the fan blade. What
    is the procedure to access the blower??
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Most likely the problem is with your VANOS cam timing system. Said system uses oil pressure to adjust the timing if each cam shaft by pressing against a spring loaded collar gear. As the seals wear out they are not able to maintain the neccessary oil pressure required to conteract the force of the springs, and as such the cams are mis-timed upon start-up. As the problem gradually worsens over a period that is typically a couple of years, idling of the engine becomes problematic regardless of how long it has been running or how recently the throttle was blipped.

    As I understand it, the repair at a dealership usually costs between five and six hundred dollars.

    Let us know how you make out.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    As a general statement, no, you don't need to maintain your car more often than is recommended by the Owner's Manual.

    Your specific question regarding oil changes is fairly easily addressed, consider the following:
    - Most six cylinder engines in the three liter range from most manufacturers have an oil capacity of between four and five quarts. Your new car uses seven.
    - Most modern ULEV (or better) engines (engines that produce FAAAAR fewer combustion byproducts than older engines) are able to go between six thousand and seventy-five hundred miles between oil changes, on conventional oil. Your car requires the use of a very high quality synthetic oil (most synthetics cannot meet the BMW LL-01 oil spec, and not a single conventional or semi-synthetic oil can).
    - Viewed as a whole, your very efficient (from a combustion perspective) engine with half again as much oil as most other engines of a similar size, and using only the best oil money can buy, can safely go the ~15,000 miles as recommended by BMW.
    - One other point. BMW has now been recommending a 15,000 mile OCI since the introduction of the E46 3-Series back in late 1998. If the 15,000 mile OCI is bad for the engines, we'd be seeing hundreds (if not thousands) of posts clogging up these sites complaining about failed engines. I've seen a handful, and in every case the engine was abused (i.e. run WAAAAY longer than 15,000 miles before the oil was changed and/or run far too low on oil).

    I hope this helps.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 46,004
    I think some people can also run into problems with VANOS if they are using the wrong weight of oil, can't they?

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  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    That makes sense. That said, all accounts of VANOS acting up that I've been privy to were a result of worn oil control "O" rings in the VANOS assembly itself. Could it be that incorrect oil usage is responsible for the worn rings? Ain't no way I'd rule that possibility out.

    Based upon my very unscientific observations, there seems to be a very hit and miss nature to this problem. Take two seemingly identical cars, driven in seemingly identical conditions and using the same oil, and you might could well find that one runs perfectly while the other will be barely able to maintain an idle. Go figure.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 46,004
    I was thinking that if the oil is too heavy on cold start up, it won't work the hydraulics for the cam shift.

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  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    If memory serves, the problem isn't that the oil is too heavy, it's that the oil is leaking past the "O" rings, thus reducing the pressure brought to bear against the VANOS spring. That said, you may have something there in that the oil would be far more likely to leak past the "O" rings when warmer/thinner than when cool in a newly cold-started engine.

    The absolute heaviest "cold" oil allowable (i.e. that meets the BMW LL-01 oil spec) is 5W-30. It would be interesting to see if the folks who've had the greatest incidence of problems are those that have used the factory BMW/Castrol 5W-30 engine oil versus those of us who converted our cars over to the thinner Mobil 1 0W-40 and/or Castrol Syntec 0W-30 oils.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • fordhorrorfordhorror Posts: 20
    My friend owns one of these. He has a rebuilt engine on it. The car is fine except it will take 10-20 seconds to strat , he has to keep turning the ksy give it gas for that time till the ignition kicks off. He says the mecahnic said it was a problem with some valves or something not sure what he said. am planning to buy this car from him but not sure if this is a safe buy, the rebuilt engine has 50k now.
    At the same time another guy is trying to sell me a 97 MITS eclipse with 73 k on it, looks runs nice. Whats your opinion?
  • tlouietlouie Posts: 20
    Thanks for info, do you know what maintenance is needed during the 4 yr. Ultimate Service and does it pay to purchase the 2yr. extended maintenance plan?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Ummm, I'm not sure what the "4 yr. Ultimate Service" is, so I cannot comment. Regarding the extended maintenance plan, they seem to be something of a deal if you don't like DIY type of jobs. Personally I wouldn't bother as I do my own brakes and oil and filters and such, however, for someone not so inclined, the general consensus "buy it". ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • tlouietlouie Posts: 20
    The 4 yr. Service I am inquiring about is the 4 year free maintenance included in the purchase of a new BMW. Wanted to know other than once a year oil changes what else is schedules and included. Do you also think the extended warranty is advisable since european cars are horrible with reliability. Don't know if BMW's have improved with 2008 models, it's why I am debating the 528xi over the 535xi since the 535xi is turbocharged. It's new and first year for this engine, don't know if kinks have ironed out yet.
  • jb_shinjb_shin Posts: 357
    Any scheduled maintenance that falls within the time period is covered, oil, coolant, wiper blade, brakes (pads and rotors), service inspection I, mobility package (tire sealant and pump) on M cars, etc.

    I am not sure I would call European cars' reliability as being horrible. Take it for what its worth, but My 2002 530i was the most reliable car I have ever owned (including the ownership experience by the person who bought it from me). My prior cars were 1981, 1989 and 1994 Accord, 1995 Integra, 1989 325iX wagon in Germany, 1993 Altima, 2004 Sienna, and 2003 M5.

    The 530i had zero repairs and cost the least to maintain. The current owner probably has about 60,000 to 70,000 miles on it. Our 95 Integra and the 04 Sienna had more service visits and warranty repairs by same or less mileage. My 03 M5 probably has had about the same number of service visits for warranty repairs as the Integra and the Sienna this point (53,000 miles) but the M5 repairs certainly would have cost a lot more if it had been out of warranty.
  • sirdarby1sirdarby1 Posts: 33
    Recently I purchased a CPO'd 51K miles and a chronic squeak comes and goes. Sounds like it may be from passenger side seat or window. it's like a plasticky vibration or unseated window sound. although faint it's extremely annoying. How can I direct the dealer without having to make excessive service calls.

    Also, another sporadic problem -- every now and then my steering has a whatI call -- a glitch in it. Seems like it kinda skips a beat when turning every so often. That's the only way to describe.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,908
    Sounds like it may be from passenger side seat or window. it's like a plasticky vibration or unseated window sound. although faint it's extremely annoying.

    It could be the door or window gasket; does it stop when you lower the RF window a bit?
    My wife's E39 had a minor squeak and it turned out to be the door panel itself- rubbing against the metal of the inner door. It was especially audible if you pressed down on the door armrest. I took a piece of 3X5 card and sprayed both sides with Vinylex and then slid it between the door panel and the inner door. A small paint brush would also work. That cured the problem.

    Also, another sporadic problem -- every now and then my steering has a whatI call -- a glitch in it. Seems like it kinda skips a beat when turning every so often. That's the only way to describe.

    Is the PS reservoir filled to the proper level? If that's good, I'd next check the drive belts as well as all associated tensioners and pulleys. If they are good, then it is almost certainly a problem involving the pump or the steering rack itself.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport 1975 2002A 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 1999 Wrangler 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2009 328i Son's: 2004 X3 2.5

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