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BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

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  • troyrtroyr Posts: 3
    i am in need of some serious help with my BMW!!!!!... i love my 540i to death, however recently i came across a huge problem. My car wont move forward. Let me explain. It accelerates and all when i put it in drive , you can even here the engine roar when you step on the gas.the rpms increase. The car does however move when i put it in reverse.Its goes into reverse perfectly. If anybody knows anything or has some advice dont hesitate to to reply to this. For now im driving around in a 1989 civic. I miss my BMW soooo much....PLEASE HELP ME OUT!!!!!!!!!
  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 16,627
    Get thee to a transmission specialist, I'm guessing it's a bad Torque Convertor.

    2000 BMW 528i, 2001 BMW 330CiC

  • troyrtroyr Posts: 3
    Thanks for the reply. Do you know how much that would cost me more or less?
  • I have a 2002 BMW 525i with 24,000 miles. I recently purchased 4 new tires. After the tires were installed I found my steering wheel shaking violently when I went over some holes in the road at very low speeds. It doesn't happen often. I brought my car back to the tire place and after inspection they told me that I had front lower control arm bushings that were cracked & leaking and that I also had leaking rear control arm bushings. My question is how common is this on a low mileage car? Also is it better to get the bushings removed & replaced or the whole arm replaced? Most important is this a safety issue?
  • I've been following the questions, but i havent seen one excatly like mine and im hoping you can help? Just like the others my car at idle will start to overheat? I have had to replace to upper radiotor hose because of a bad batch of hoses. Since gettign a good one that hasnt leaked, or the car? But i've also noticed that the temp comming out of the vents is mostly cool air? I have the water pump and thearsmistat and will put on this weekend. But my question is would a faulty pump and or thermistat cause the air to blow out cool when all gauges are set to 75 and air controls on 3 dots red?
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,496
    It sounds like the cooling system needs to be bled properly.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,872
    I don't think a control arm bushing can "leak". That sounds very odd.

    So you're saying that:

    a) the car did not shake whatsoever, at any time, prior to the new tires?

    b) that as soon as the new tires were put on, this violent shaking happened?

    If that's what you experienced, I think your tire shop doesn't know what they are doing.

    I'd take it somewhere else to check for a bent wheel, loose lug nuts, or some lift damage.

    BUT...if the shaking occurred before the new tires, then I'd have to say that these control arm bushings would have to be pretty wiped out to do that....it's plausible but I'd sure get a second opinion on that.

    Safety? Sure, any violent wheel shake is an immediate safety concern.

    So you're job is to get some better information, with PROOF that you can see.

    MODERATOR

  • No, the car never shook before the tires were changed. It happens only rarely. I just became concerned because it is violent. It's only happened at very slow speeds. What is lift damage? I mainly wanted to find out if other 525 owners have had this experience on a car with low mileage.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,872
    Lift damage means that when they lifted the car to change the tires, they put the lift arm in the wrong place and damaged something in the steering or suspension. That's why I'd like someone else to look at it.

    I think they bent a wheel or something, or maybe there's a tire way way out of balance.

    It makes no sense that the car would not shake going in to a garage at 9 am and shake violently at 5 pm.

    Uh-uh. Something is not right here, given what you have presented to us.

    MODERATOR

  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,496
    I don't think a control arm bushing can "leak". That sounds very odd.


    Those bushing can leak on an E39, as they are liquid filled. And they can also cause the problems described, though they may not be the culprit in this situation. More than a few owners on the Yahoo E39 group have encountered that exact failure.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,872
    Oh you mean the 'tension strut'? Maybe we are talking about different things here.

    ANYWAY---if that's what we mean, then a distant bell is going off in my head, you are correct, those things leak and cause a shake if you do some hard braking (was my rememberence of it).

    But gee, such low miles! I'm surprised, but I don't work on these cars everyday, so...

    ANYWAY AGAIN -- if that's what we are talking about, then I don't think the car is in danger, no.

    MODERATOR

  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,496
    Yes, "tension strut" is the correct term, but almost no one other than BMW techs call them that. I'll bet that the guys at the OP's tire shop think that a tension strut is some kind of dance...

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,872
    No, no that dance is called the McPherson Strut! You need a kilt to do it properly.

    MODERATOR

  • Would that (not bleeding the system right?) cause the coolant level to change or go down? I can tell when my coolant is low cause the heat starts blowing out cooler air. But what i've been doin is turn the key to the last click b for starting and opening the resv. tank? Is that a good way to fill up the radiotor? But once i fill it up the hot air comes back? Do you also think changin the thersmsitat and water pump would be a good idea, to prevent any thing else? Being that the water pump still has the plastic pepeller? ( thanks for the response earlier)
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,496
    There is a specific procedure for bleeding the cooling system in your car. You need to take it to a shop that knows how to do it. If your car is nearing-or past @60000 miles it's a good idea to replace the thermostat, thermostat housing, and waterpump. And refill the system with a 50/50 mix of BMW coolant and distilled water only.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • I plan to put all those pcs on this weekend, so I'll check back with you to let you know my status.. Thanks for all the help... This is a great site, and im glad i found it.
  • gardisgardis Posts: 185
    Guys,
    My 1996 328i has been maintained only by BMW. I have some minor issues. My ABS indicator lightn on the dash (triangle looking light) goes off while driving, at any random point. I have no idea why it's doing that. Anyone have any idea? I haven't approached the dealer, because I don't want to spend money on it.

    Also, what does the "A" and "M" toggle switch near the transmission selector mean?

    Appreciate it, thanks.
  • gardisgardis Posts: 185
    Guys, I am looking at a 2008 535i in the CPO program, with 28K miles on it. Warranty lasts until April 2013. I have concerns about that mileage. One poster advised that the turbos would be affected by such driving, and would possibly need replacement in the future. What am I up against here, should I just pass on this gorgeous vehicle. I went and looked at it yesterday, it's a dream to look at. But I keep cars for a long time, currently driving 1996 328i with 105K miles on it also bought in the CPO. They're asking $39,995 for the 2008. So far, it's on the lot at least 3 weeks, maybe 4. I didin't approach any sales people yet. I'm afraid I'm so in love with the look of the car, I'll just go with it. I need to think it over.

    What do you think guys? Am I taking a chance? Thanks guys. really value the advice on this forum. It was a great find. Thanks again.
    Gardis in CT
    gardis72@gmail.com
  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 16,627
    Based on your questions, I deduce that you have not read the owners manual. I suggest that you do so, BMWs are a little bit different and the manual does have important information in it.

    The ABS indicator coming on intermittently is probably the result of a wheel speed sensor that's gotten a bit dirty. Your BMW tech can check and clean this up for you or replace the sensor if it's going bad. The triangle is actually warning you that the Traction Control (operated by the same sensors) is disabled

    The "A-M" toggle allows you to select a quasi-manual shift mode ("M") which enables manual selection of higher or lower gears, toggling back into "A" restores fully automatic gear selection. I find that the "manual" mode is handy when descending steep hills or traveling on winding rural byways.

    2000 BMW 528i, 2001 BMW 330CiC

  • begebege Posts: 4
    :mad: After 6 weeks and 2,300 miles a message poped up on the screen "Engine malfunction- reduced power". When I accelerate there is no response power coming from the engine. It feels like I am driving a Trabant. Took the car on Monday to the BMW service and they inform me later that day that one of the turbos failed. They will need to replace both turbos and it will take 5 days. I am starting to regret the fact that I replaced my 2007 Infiniti M35 Sport for the 535i. Previously I had two M-B's both lemon. This is my first Ultimate driving machine and it is the Ultimate Disappointing Machine!!!!!!!! At the end of the lease I will be looking at the new Porsche Carrera S for the "There is No Substitute Machine"!
  • gardisgardis Posts: 185
    This is why I'm so hesitant about buying that CPO 2008 535i. I just am not a high power engine enthusiast. I don't know anything about turbos and I'd be much more comfortable with the straight 528i.

    Guys, wha'ts with the chrome trim around the door frame? I hate that chrome, I prefer the solid black look. Why do some have the solid black, but most have the chrome? How do I get the 528i in solid black trim around the doors/windows?? Another reason why I loved the 535i I looked at. It's a minor thing, but it's aesthetic with me.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,496
    Guys, wha'ts with the chrome trim around the door frame? I hate that chrome, I prefer the solid black look. Why do some have the solid black, but most have the chrome? How do I get the 528i in solid black trim around the doors/windows?? Another reason why I loved the 535i I looked at. It's a minor thing, but it's aesthetic with me

    BMW calls the black trim "Shadowline". If you are ordering a car and have a very good dealer, they might-repeat, MIGHT-be able to get the Shadowline installed on your car. Probably won't be cheap, however. Of course you can always order the trim and install it yourself(which is what I'd do) or have a good body shop install it.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • sb55sb55 On an Island in VermontPosts: 163
    You usually get the Shadowline (black) trim with the Sport package.

    2007 Miata, 2010 BMW 535xiT, 2010 GMC Sierra SLE, 2006 Subaru Legacy Wagon

  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,496
    You usually get the Shadowline (black) trim with the Sport package.

    I know; I assumed he just wanted the trim...

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • gardisgardis Posts: 185
    Yes I figured that trim came with the sports package. I looked at a white 2007 530i, it had the black trim and heavy tinted windows, 30463K miles. They're asking $34900 for the vehicle. I'm not really that interested. I sat in the car, it still smells new, and was beautiful. Real solid vehicle, but I didn't care for those heavily tinted windows and I'd like a black one. She's going to try to find me one. Full warranty runs until Oct 2012. That's pretty good.
  • The arm of the rear windshield wiper recently broke. I went online, found and purchased another arm and wanted to replace it. But I can't get the cover off in order to get to pull the arm off the splined shaft. There is a small slot at the bottom and all suggestions tell me that you put a screw driver in it and lift the cover off. Not so. It will lift 1/4" but that's it. I started to damage the material and am afraid that I will destroy the thing if I try harder. Can anybody tell me what I need to know to lift the triangular cover off the rear window handle, so that I can remove the broken wiper arm?
    Thank you for your help!
    Jan
  • I have a 2001 525i with 165k miles on it. i'm currently having several issues i need some education on.
    first, my heater controls have become "possessed" regardless of what temp i select on either heat or ac, the fan motor blows erratically, switching from fast to slow, back to fast in a matter of seconds and just keeps doing that the entire time. this happens if i have it on auto, or floor, etc. if i try to manually control the fan with the + or - control it does no good. it is so bad i can't even use the heat
    second, my windshield wipers will only go up, get stuck at the top and then i hear a "wurrrr" sound from under the windshield and they stop. I can give them a push with my hand to get them back down, and they seem to be free and nothing blocking them, and when i turn them on and manually help them along with my hand nothing seems to be binding, but if i let them go they'll stop in the same place every time.
    fianally, my check engine light is on again, and the code is coming up cam shaft position sensor"B". This will be my third time replacing this same sensor, they only seem to last about 30k miles before they fail. I'm using a genuine bmw replacement partany idea what wold keep causing this to fail?
    i could really use some good advice as finances are tight and i really can't afford another $2000 bmw service repair bill.
  • Your first issue is a Final Stage Unit. I had mine replaced last Wednesday when I bought a new battery. The part was $102 and an hour of labor covered both.

    I cannot help you on your other issues.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,496
    Like 530i said; your HVAC problem is the FSU. It's a dead easy DIY. As for the wipers, bsst case is a loose nut in the linkage. Worst case is that the wiper gearbox-or "wiper console" as BMW calls it-is DOA. The part lists for @$240. As for the cam sensors, you got me. They DO fail, but not nearly as often as they have in your case. Have you joined the BMW Car Club yet? You'll find many shops offer BMW CCA part and/or labor discounts and you'll have access to club technical advisors as well.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • Thank you for this info. I have the same problem with my 2001 525iT. When I bought mine the previous owner told me that he had just replaced the fan unit at the tune of $700.00. Reading this, he may have been taken for a ride.
    When you say dead easy DIY, where do I find the unit and is there any info (web site?) that explains the installation procedure?

    Thanks,
    Jan
    PS Same for the rear windshield wiper, I can't find any info about how to replace the arm.
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