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BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

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  • Thanks for your response. I did not state this in the first message but the castings numbers on all three heads were the same eventhough the springs, lifters, towers, caps were different. Who is Barker? Did you mean Baker?
  • Oh that's interesting....well I wonder if someone modified your car along the way? Yeah, I meant the vendor you purchased the head from.

    I guess the best thing you can do is try a 3rd or 4th vendor and see what they offer you for your car. If two or three other vendors offer lifters with Diameter A, and only Baker offers lifters with Diameter B, then you have some sort of argument.
  • I have been searching for a 2006 525i for the past 2 months and am unable to find one to my exact specifications. I did however find a very similar 525i without navigation. My question is, if I lease this 525i and would like to add a factory BMW navigation (that will run through idrive) is it possible to do so aftermarket?

    I am aware that the screen on the non-navigation models is smaller and that might present a problem. I believe I saw some BMW navigation modules on e-bay but wasn’t sure how that would work with a non-navigation model. I would really appreciate feedback. This navigation issue would make or break the deal. Thank you.
  • bdr127bdr127 Posts: 950
    Adding the BMW navigation to a 5er is not impossible to do, but extremely cost-prohibitive. You're probably looking at around $6k-$7k in parts and probably another $1000-$1500 in labor. Not worth it, IMO.

    There is a ton of stuff to replace. In addition to the screen (4:3 to 16:9), it's completely different iDrive software and wiring harness between the knob/buttons and the computer and screen. You also need to replace the center stack, because the non-nav only has a slot for CD and the nav has a CD slot and DVD nav disk slot. (See pictures below:)

    Non-Nav:
    image

    Nav:
    image
  • bdr127bdr127 Posts: 950
    Go to www.realoem.com to get an idea of what individual parts would cost...

    Here's the direct link to the 2006 525i E60 "Audio, Navigation, Electronic Systems."
  • You'd also have to hook up the BMW Link somehow, as that is part of the package. This is not a good idea.

    I just finished playing with the NAV/iDrive on a 2006 and it's better than it used to be. Only 4 screens now instead of 8. I liked the NAV voice commands too, for pre-filed addresses only of course.

    You don't need iDrive or NAV to have bluetooth, though.
  • aam1aam1 Posts: 26
    Dear Forum Members:

    I have a 2002 E39. I recently noticed that the coutesy lights/lamps in both the passenger and driver footwells is not working. Just wanted to foind out how I can locate and replace the burnt out bulbs. Any and all help is appreciated. The lights/lamps at the bottom of the doors are still working.
  • bdr127bdr127 Posts: 950
    If all the lights just suddenly went out, I'd check the fuses before I replaced any bulbs...
  • dave59dave59 Posts: 23
    I am returning my leased 525 at the end of March. I have a small star in the windshield that I have had repaired. Does anyone know how much BMW will charge me if I return the car with the crack? How much will glass shop cost? Several years ago I turned in a windshield to insurance. They raised my rates. It wasn't worth the cost of the raised rates.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Have you considered a repair? I've had a star repaired on each of my last three lease cars (two of which were BMWs), and haven't been penalized. IIRC, the price ranges from $25 to about $60 depending upon whether they come to you or you go to them.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • dave59dave59 Posts: 23
    I had it repaired when it happened about 2 years ago. It is still somewhat visible. The repairman that worked on it said he would replace the fill if it discolored before I return the lease. Maybe I'll do this and see if it passes.
  • I have a 1998 528i that has some serious electrical problems. The symptoms are: ---> Rough idle during warm temperatures, and/OR it also idles rough in cool temperatures when going above 55 mph. I turn it off and then back on, and then it idles like normal; smooth. On top of this. When I turn off my car, take the key out of the ignition, and lock it up, - the gage cluster lights stay on all night, along with the red, night interior lights next to the rear view mirror, and my hazard light switch. My gages used to fail and not work at all, until I started to disconnect my batter and then reconnect it. My Hazard switch is always on (not flashing at all, but just a solid on light; even when the car is parked and locked). This kills my battery if I dont disconnect it when away for long periods of time. My head lights turn on as soon as I turn on the ignition, and the high beams never turn on at all. I have no control over the headlight's on/off switch. My turn signals dont work AT ALL either. A few days ago, temperatures fell under freezing point and when I started my car my high beams worked and so did my turn signals - until the car warmed up. Then it was back to chaos. I finally realized that the fuses, bulbs, and switches are in good order on my car. The battery is also brand new and within specs of the car. IS THERE ANY ADVISE ANYONE CAN GIVE ME BEFORE I TAKE IT TO THE BMW SERVICE CENTER AND GET ROBBED????? I'm starting to think that it's the computer to the car. But how many computers are there to my car? Or could they bad relays? PLEASE HELP WITH ANY ADVISE !!!!! thanks!!! - Mike
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    Check your battery and alternator output.
  • Hi Everyone. I purchased a 1993 BMW 525i in July of 2004. At that time I had a mechanic do about 2103.25 worth of repairs, etc. on the car including replacing a "Support Arm" and "Support Bushings". Last week the car began to rev on its own and I took the car back to the same mechanic who said it was an air intake leak. When I called to get a status on the repair, I was told that in addition to the air intake repair, I also needed to have a long list of other repairs done (to the tune of 2K) including replacing the "Thrust Arm" and "Support Arm". Are these the same thing? If so, would it go bad again only after 2 years??? Thank you in advance for any light you can shed on this. :confuse:
  • I have the same problem with mine. Did you ever get an answer??
  • djselzerdjselzer Posts: 10
    I have heard from a colleague that the 2004 5 Series suffered several gliches. Specifically, the electrical system had recurrent problems. His 2004 530i was replaced with a 2005 530i under the "Lemon Law". I have spied a 2004 545i CPO at our local dealer. The car has reasonable mileage with a manual transmission. What can owners/lessors of the 2004 5 Series tell me about these cars that may convince me to entertain other options or take a chance?
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,644
    They could be either front or rear bushings.
  • kelspa77kelspa77 Posts: 1
    My check engine light came on when my bmw was leaking coolant. I put a new raidiator in it and the check engine light stayed on. The fuses keep blowing in the car and we just replaced the rear tail light assembly. The stereo has been popping and going off and has finally quit working and the new lights that we just put in the car are not working. The battery was also dead so I just replaced the battery. The car will not start and has to be jumped. The battery is only 2 months old. And now there is a bad rotten egg smell coming from the car. It is so bad that you can smell it several feet from the car. Anything that is in the car also smells like it when you remove it from the car. It gets stronger as you drive the car. It is so strong that it will make your nausea. The dash board lights also went out when this all happend but they are now working again. The abs light is also on. And the air is not working very well. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 16,391
    It would takean electrical genius to sort thru the multitiude of electrical problems your car has but I'd bet that the smell and some of the poor running is caused by a bad (plugged up) Catalytic converter. If your mechanic has not figured this out, get a new mechanic (and a new Cat).
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    And possibly years of neglect coming home to roost...
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