Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

1777880828389

Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,525
    Ah well, the great mystery. I don't know what to say. I can only give you some solace, in a weird comparison to my laptop computer. I dumped a large cup of coffee on it, and of course, it shorted out, etc---but once we took it apart and cleaned it, it's been fine.

    MODERATOR

  • rezrez Posts: 41
    While researching the 5 series E60, I've noticed that there was an issue with the high pressure fuel pump or the ignition coil on numerous vehicles. I would like to know if anyone has experienced the problem, and how their cars are performing after the replacement, please.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,357
    The HPFP issue only affects cars with the N54 engine.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • rezrez Posts: 41
    Thanx roadburner!

    my preliminary research outcome is that the faulty N54 engine were in cars until March 2008. I wonder when BMW started to manfacture the 2009's? Just wanted to ask anyone who experienced the failed fuel pumps and how their cars are performing after they were changed out.

    Anyone?
  • gardisgardis Posts: 185
    Guys,
    I've been reading these boards for over a year now, and have gotten terrific information, many thanks to you all for that help.

    I have a CPO 2007 530i with 28K on it. Vehicle has premium, cold, Sports, prem. sound, NAV. Love the car. Really terrific. Since I got the vehicle in June 2009, I was consistently getting like 20mpg city driving, consistently. Verified by myself each time I filled. Now, all of a sudden, I notice I'm getting less mileage. It's down to about 17mpg, with the same type driving. I am very light on the foot, and always let the car coast, and use cruise control when on the highway. I dont' have a heavy foot at all.

    What could have changed? Is it the cold weather (live in CT). I just don't get it.
    I was getting like 300miles on 15 gals every time, like clockwork. Now, I'm getting maybe 260-270 miles. I'm about ready to call the dealer, since the car is under warranty until June 2012, but I figured I'd ask here first.

    Anyone have a clue? Thanks guys, and Merry Christmas and happy New Year!
    Gardis
    CT
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,525
    That is probably normal. The factors working against you are:

    1. Friction -- all the fluids and greases in your car's rolling hardware are thicker, and require more energy to overcome and get warm.

    2. Tire pressure--it will drop 1-2 lbs in cold weather---again, more rolling resistance

    3. Driving habits -- if you sit and think about it, you probably are making more short trips where before you would walk, due to the cold weather.

    4. Warm-ups -- your engine management system is designed (mapped) for optimum engine temperature, and is less efficient when the engine is cold.

    You might consider an engine heater when you park overnight, and inflating or at least checking your tire pressure just a little bit more.

    MODERATOR

  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 27,889
    ..after the DST change-over, my commute home is in the dark... and, the traffic is a lot worse.. It turns a 30 minute drive into 40 minutes... That eats away at your mileage..

    MODERATOR
    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • Have an 04 530i, yes the cold will knock it down alot! I am about the same, 19-21 city and much better on highway only.
  • gardisgardis Posts: 185
    OK Thanks guys. Makes sense. No question, the drop was coincident with the drop in weather temps. I'll keep my eye on it, and thanks again for the advice.
  • Bought my BMW this spring 2009 brand new. At 5K miles, check engine light came on. Fixed 3 times (software update, fuel injector replacement, fuel pump). At about 7500 miles, light came on, lost power and shut off. Luckily I was able to coast to the side of the road. Had to be towed. Had a fuel injector and cylinder replaced (blown to smithereens). Since this was the 4th incident with the check engine light, filed for reimbursement through Lemon Law. Don't consider the case safe to drive as sometimes I am in areas where there is no cell service (so no BMWAssist for a tow). No response from BMW after 30 days. Dealer has been responsive as far as service and all replacements covered under warranty.I know alot of you have experienced the fuel pump issues. Has anyone tried to get reimbursed for purchase or gotten a new vehicle under the Lemon Law? My brother is a Chevy dealer and they automatically start working a deal for the customer on the third repair for the same issue. They will either move the customer into another dealer or return their money. :lemon:
  • lovecdlovecd Posts: 50
    The original tires on my 2005 525i seemed to worn out very soon, and I need new tires. Went to discount tires and Costco Tires, and they have quite a few options, but each shop have different ideas and suggestions. Can anybody advise which brand tires I should go with?

    Also, the price for V-rated and H-rated from Michelin seemed to be quite different, and it seemed that H-rated one is not recommended by Costco at all. Is this really matter at all?

    Thanks!
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,357
    1. Check out Tire Rack
    2. Don't fit a lower speed rated tire unless it is a dedicated winter tire.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • lovecdlovecd Posts: 50
    So, V-rated has higher speed than H-rated?

    Thanks!
  • james27james27 Posts: 433
    The letter rating is not necessarily a better tire, but that it passed tests up to a specific speed. If I remember correctly, H is rated up to 129mph, and V to 149mph. In some places it is illegal to install tires with a lower speed-rating than originally specified on the car by the manufacturer. This is especially important in places like Germany, where you may actually get to drive at the car's maximum speed. nowhere in the USA is it legal to drive beyond probably a T-rated tire. A higher speed rating tire will usually not last as long, be noisier, and ride rougher because flex means heat and heat ruins tires (they could fail much quicker - often catastrophically). One way they minimize flex is often to start out with much thinner tread, thus the reason why they wear out faster. The handling often, but not always improves with a higher speed rated tire because it holds its shape better. But, at 'normal' speeds, you may not notice. So, depending on the legalities of where you are, and your priorities, you could specify a lower speed-rated tire on your car. There will be some differences, but you might not notice (some will, and to a few, it would be huge).
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,357
    So, depending on the legalities of where you are, and your priorities, you could specify a lower speed-rated tire on your car. There will be some differences, but you might not notice.

    If that's the case you would probably be just as happy driving a Kia.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • lovecdlovecd Posts: 50
    Thanks a lot for your explanation!
  • james27james27 Posts: 433
    How many people drive their car at 100%? How many ever do it? If you are one of them, then it is essential to maintain the max. Note, a lower speed rated tire may very well have better performance in the rain and light snow because it usually starts out with more tread depth, displace the moisture better, and can conform to the road irregularities better. So, if you understand the tradeoffs, your actual pleasure and pocketbook may be improved. A potentially bigger issue is the brand and model you choose. Few people will notice the difference between the same tire/brand/model offered in different speed ratings. It only becomes a safety factor if you ever do go to the maximum speed. And, an H-rated tire after it has worn for a few thousand miles to the tread depth of the V-rated one, will likely provide essentially the same driving performance AND increased tread life, but again, only if you don't need to drive above the max speed rating. In the US, unless you happen to do track work, it's lose the license time if you ever get there (and get caught!). I'm not talking about larger wheels/lower profile or switching performance category tires...just the max speed rating (although they sometimes go together, but not always).
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,357
    How many people drive their car at 100%? How many ever do it? If you are one of them, then it is essential to maintain the max

    Why stop with tires? Save a few more bucks and fit some Pep Boys shocks and struts. Put some Midas brakes on it. Walmart Supertech oil and filters? Why not; you won't be driving your car at 100%. And don't forget to use regular unleaded instead of premium.

    . Note, a lower speed rated tire may very well have better performance in the rain and light snow because it usually starts out with more tread depth, displace the moisture better, and can conform to the road irregularities better.

    And your source for that information is?

    So, if you understand the tradeoffs, your actual pleasure and pocketbook may be improved.

    Thanks for the helpful information. My knowledge of things BMW is quite limited since I've only owned, wrenched on, and competed in nine BMWs over the past 27 years. And as a BMW driver I'm always looking to improve my pocketbook- whatever the heck that means.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • I am moving from v tires to h tires--yes I do occasionally drive fast! Overall use is your main concern.
    I f I lived in Nevada I probably wouldn't change. But favorite tire is still Michilen! Not an advertisement but something that I can count on almost w/o question except for my last set of piolet/as. Think something hinkey because they never could be balanced well or stay close. Same shop -- Same people for 20 years! Best tire I ever used was Gislavid a Sweedish tire and I think they were unioned out of business. Still afraid of japenese tires just had too many bad experiences. Good Year and Firestone almost killed me twice and would never buy either again for any car that can run over 75mph.
  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 16,595
    James I could be wrong but I know that heat is the main factor in tire wear and I think it would be safe to assume that a tire with a V-rating would be less affected by heat than it's H-rated equivalent in the long run and therefore might last longer driven in the same way.

    2000 BMW 528i, 2001 BMW 330CiC

  • james27james27 Posts: 433
    The vast majority of heat is generated from the flex. Friction internally is a larger component unless you are driving constantly at max g's in turns. A few high-speed turns aren't going to cause you to chunk sections out of your tire...a few laps around a track could. That's where a higher speed-rated tire becomes critical - it can handle heat better, both from the heat generated by the repeated high-speed turns and the faster, constant velocity (both are primarily from flex, but some from if you break traction around the corner as well). The faster you go, the more it flexes (more rotations). Tread depth and design affect how much squirm the tread does, which will heat the tire up more - one reason why the higher speed-rated tires usually have less tread depth when new. I still contend that an identical model tire in H and V ratings, where the H rated tire has worn to the same depth as a V cousin will handle very close to the same except at absolute max g's. If you drive it at 100% of the vehicle's capability (i.e. higher speed than the rating), or decide to use it on a track where you are reaching the max g-forces frequently, you need a tire at least to the original spec. The average person won't notice. Now, the selection of tires that are available in both H and V versions with the same tread design isn't huge, but they exist.

    The vehicle's max speed capability requires the manufacturer to select an appropriately spec'ed speed-rated tire. In the same model line, if it is 130, it'll very likely come with H-rated tires. If it is faster, it will have at least V-rated tires. Cornering capability is likely the same, assuming the same sized tires on the same model line (discounting sport, or other enhancements to make one faster).

    Anyway, in some countries and maybe states here (not mine), you don't have the choice - the tire's speed rating must match the vehicle, regardless of how you drive it. If you drive it at 100% cornering or speed, then if you don't use the appropriate tire, it could kill you and others. Most people don't. An H-rated tire is only unsafe on a car if you exceed it's max speed. The same can't necessarily be said about brakes and other safety equipment although some are better than that supplied by the factory. A brake pad supplied by the factory is a good all-around performer, but might not be the greatest at track use where extreme heat may dictate a different compound.
  • 045045 Posts: 2
    My girlfriend has the same issue on her 04. What did the dealer do to fix it?
  • My ordeal was a long drawn out situation! First they replaced the vapor barriers in the doors (TWICE) as they said that was the issue, this did not take care of it so I took it back to them and told them to keep the car until they found the issue. It turned out that the cabin air filter system had a leak(under the hood) in it that allowed water to enter the heater box, it would then migrate through the vents at the front of the vehicle and run under the carpet to the rear of the vehicle. Because of the amount of water and the time it took to figure it out I had electrical issues that potentially could continue. I had to replace the Active steering module becasue of corrosion, radio was screwed up, etc.. all in all I can say is get the water out of there asap, I pulled the back seat and tented up the carpet and blew fans on it for DAYS, get the water out of there quick! I will say BMW did take care of the final bill for me becasue it took so long to fugure out! I was impressed with that!!
  • lovecdlovecd Posts: 50
    Just got oil changed myself on 2005 525i this afternoon. However, I did not figure out how to reset the oil change service warning? Do I need a special tool to do that?

    Thanks!
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,357
    The procedure can be found here.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • lovecdlovecd Posts: 50
    Thanks, will try it tomorrow then.
  • lovecdlovecd Posts: 50
    Got two questions:

    1. Where is te tank for power steering wheel located? I found one between air filter housing and the battery positive terminal, and with the mark of ATF fluid only on its cover, is this the one?

    2. Try to lose the cover and check the fluid level, noticed there are 3 marks, so how to check the fluid level is correct? If needs more fluid, can I fill it with the regular ATF transmission fluid like dexron iii?

    Thanks for any advise!
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,357
    1. Yes
    2. Anywhere between the top two marks should be fine. Dexron III is the proper fluid if the cap reads "ATF Oil".

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • lovecdlovecd Posts: 50
    Thanks a lot!
  • I put about 10000 miles per year on the car and warranty is up end of march. I do not plan to buy extended warranty or maintenance plan. Is there anything I should do before warranty is up?

    Thanks.
Sign In or Register to comment.