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BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,529
    This doesn't sound like a diagnosis at all, but rather a guess based on an oil cap??

    There are very conclusive ways to test for head gasket failure or even oil separator (BMW's fancy PCV valve) problems, so yeah, you need to go somewhere that knows about BMWs.

    If in fact you have water + oil extensively distributed throughout your engine, you'd better pour yourself a stiff drink. I think not, but you need to have this properly diagnosed and stop driving the car until you do.

    MODERATOR

  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,359
    I'll bet it's either the water pump, t-stat housing, or the expansion tank.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • petecastro99petecastro99 Posts: 1
    edited March 2010
    I have a very similar issue with lights coming on and going off intermittently. Also have my horn and radio sometime not work, then start to work again.
    I'm assuming it's the computer module but curious as to what you found when you had it serviced.
  • The mechanic I use doesn't know how to reset the error light on the idrive. Can anyone explain how to do this? I have tried pushing the trip odometer and turning key to accessory but do not get any reset ability.

    Frustrated in Wisconsin.
  • pen101pen101 Posts: 238
    I have not written here in a long while. I still have my car that I purchased new in December, 2001. I love the car and will probably keep it a few more years.

    While on the freeway, a rock or something hit the windshield and now there is a long crack across it. My car, '02 530i has 89K miles. It has the premium-sport package which comes with the rain sensor on the rear view mirror. My insurance deductible is higher than the replacement cost so I will pay for it my self. Question is, I received quotes from a few highly recommended glass shops. It comes down to whether I want to have installed a BMW windshield ($650) or an after market windshield ($350). Each shop claims that the aftermarket windshield is just as good as the BMW part, except it does not have the BMW logo on it. Considering the age and mileage of the car, would it be a mistake to use the after market windshield instead of the BMW windshield?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    edited April 2010
    Hey Pen, long time... ;)

    How's that "new" clutch holding out for you?

    Regarding the windshield glass, the only thing I've ever been warned about regarding replacement glass is the actual thickness; I've "heard" (but never experienced) that some aftermarket glass makers skimp on the thickness, and as such, the new glass cracks and pits easier.

    I've taken a different route regarding the one broken windshield I've had to deal with on a German car, namely a used windshield. My insurance company told me they'd actually waive my deductible and pay for the entire glass replacement if I'd agree to a used part. Needless to say I agreed. ;)

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • pen101pen101 Posts: 238
    Shipo, you have a great memory. Same clutch, works great. Only other non-standard maintenance issue is that the drivers door window-lift gave out. Oh, and I have been through 3 cup holder sets, couple sets of brakes, lots of tires (standard Pilots lasted over 40K, but then I used PS2's and they lasted about 25K each set), a few bulbs here and there, a new front Bumper (a parking curb pulled the old one out) and a new rear bumper (was rear ended). The car is great (you know that) and I expect to keep it a few more years (feels good not have a car payment) before I get the 2012 5-series (always avoid the first year).

    Based upon your comments, I will research the aftermarket glass option a little more carefully. Maybe I could find a used windshield replacement instead. The bottom line is that I want to make sure it does not have distortion, is thinner or causes added wind noise compared to a new BMW windshield.

    Pen
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,529
    PROCEDURE TO VIEW OR RESET SERVICE ITEMS IN THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER E90, E91, E92, E60, E61, E63 AND E64

    1. Turn ignition to Terminal 15. (if equipped with 'Keyless Start' insert remote in ignition slot but do not start engine)
    2. Press and hold the Instrument Cluster Set/Reset button for 10 seconds.
    3. The upper display in the Instrument Cluster will be illuminated with a Service Item (example: An oil can is the designation for Oil Service). The lower display in the Instrument Cluster will indicate the remaining time or mileage left for that Service Item (example: 14000). Pressing the button repeatedly will allow the display to scroll through all of the Condition Based Service Items.
    4. Press and hold the Instrument Cluster Set/Reset button again and the lower display screen will indicate "OK" or "DUE".
    5. Pressing the Instrument Cluster Set/Reset button again will allow the "RESET" to appear in the lower window for that service. Releasing and reapplying the button one more time will reset the service displayed in the upper window only. Repeat the procedure for any additional service reset needs.

    MODERATOR

  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 27,901
    hey pen101..

    Weren't you the one that re-purchased your car after your lease, CPOed, for less than the residual?

    I replaced a windshield on our '03 325i... The prices were much lower then, and we went with factory glass at the time, because they were the only ones that had the rain sensor.

    I wouldn't be worried about the after-market glass, as much as the shop having experience with replacing BMW glass... Ours had a special sealant that had to cure overnight... otherwise, they would have come to my office to do it..

    regards,
    kyfdx

    MODERATOR
    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • pen101pen101 Posts: 238
    edited April 2010
    Thanks Kyfdx, great memory. I got lucky on that one. Credit lots of research and talking to the right people.

    Both shops that gave me quotes come highly recommended. I'll let you know which way I decide to go and whether I am satisfied with the result.

    Also add to my above list of non-normal maintanence items replaced: control arm bushings. That's it. Hopefully this list won't grow too much in the coming years.

    Pen
  • lovemyclklovemyclk Posts: 351
    I faced the exact same issue with my '03 530. Have the PP/SP with rain sensing wipers, so went with OEM glass. Car looks and functions like new. Was not going to scrimp on after-market vs. OEM, but did not consider a "used" windshield per Shipo. Had supposed most used windshields would be pitted to some degree, so wanted a smooth all-new look.

    Like you, I plan to keep this beautiful car another couple of years. I also leased and then purchased it back via CPO at a number that was very attractive... especially given that it was returned to me after a top to bottom update - even new tires.
  • bmw_mabmw_ma Posts: 1
    I have an 08 535Xi in New England and was wondering if anyone had a failure with the night vision option? I pebble hit the lens and guess what? Get ready for a $5790 repair bill, Evidently they replace and reprogram the entire system. To me, that is absoultely un acceptable. The camera is mounted in the front bumper easily susceptible to little rocks and debris bumping up into it, the fact that they dont make a replaceable lens is crazy. I recomment you DONT get this option. Its just OK in its use and crazy repair costs. Just say no.

    Need I mention tires if you have the sport model, They are very hard to get in the NE for some reason. This car is just a pain. I wish I had my 2005 540i back, I would NOT recommend the 2008 535xi sport.!!
  • furqan14furqan14 Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 530i. Lately i'm experiencing engine vibration when car is idle (in Park/Neutral/Drive mode) & if i turn the AC on, the vibration increases noticibly. I'd appreciate any suggestions as to guess what's wrong with the car? Havn't had the chance to take it to the dealership as past experiences suggest that they do nothing but suggest a whole bunch of possibilities that MAY eliminate the problem at an insane price! But it helps if i zero in on the problem and then ask them just to fix the particular part.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,529
    Did your insurance cover this cost?

    MODERATOR

  • pen101pen101 Posts: 238
    edited May 2010
    As a follow-up, after going back and forth for awhile, I decided on an after market glass that was almost half the cost ($350) of the BMW glass ($685). The installer comes highly recommended and is the one used by many of the dealerships in the area including BMW. He showed me the after market windshield and I could not tell the difference between the two (except for the BMW logo of course). Everything looked identical. So far, 2 weeks later, I have no regrets. Just an extra $335 in my pocket. Well, not really, because I just bought a new set of Michelin PS2 tires. The old ones lasted just under 25K miles. This is my 3rd full set. They are the best tires for this car. Also, I just put in my 3rd new cup holder. I guess they break as often as the tires wear out. Plus, the car just had its 90K mile service and my mechanic is warning me that now is the time to start watching for cooling system problems. Otherwise, the car is scheduled for a detail next week and still looks and drives great. It even gets over 30 mpg on the highway. Cannot complain about that.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,359
    edited May 2010
    Plus, the car just had its 90K mile service and my mechanic is warning me that now is the time to start watching for cooling system problems.

    I'd replace the water pump, t-stat/housing, radiator, and expansion tank in the next 10K-20K. While you are at it you might you should also R&R all of the idler pulleys. It's pretty much a straightforward DIY, if you feel so inclined(3-4 hours if you've never done it before).
    Oh yeah, and get a TEC cupholder.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • pen101pen101 Posts: 238
    roadburner, thanks for the suggestions. I'll put it on my to-do list when the car hits the 100K mark.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,359
    Glad to help! In my case I put off replacing a noisy pulley on my wife's 110K mile 1997 528i and the blasted thing failed while my wife was driving it to work... :(

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • ramrramr Posts: 1
    Hi all, I bought a new 2010 535ix with 20 miles. 1 month into I noticed along crank issue ie the car would turn over longer than it shouyld while starting. This apparantly is a known problem. The dealership fixed it but they also updated the car with any software changes. Upon picking up the car I noticed that it drove like my old 2000 Nissan maxima. The gear points had shifted, shifting to early and as a result there was no punch when I tried to accelerate at higher speeds. the dealership mentioned that customers had complained about lurching and BMW had changed the gear shift points in its latest software update. The car has lost its punch and it jerks at every gear transition. Do any of you know about this.
  • mhutchinsonmhutchinson Posts: 17
    Just replaced my '98 549i due to LR Qtr. panel collision. This one is gorgeous. I have the same frequent coolant light warning written about by others. Had it on the '98 as well. Requires about 8-12 oz. fluid each time the light comes on. Did I miss it or is there a likely cause - poor design of/leaky fill tank, etc.? I don't see evidence of fluid under the car or around the hoses, radiator, thermostat housing. My oil is not discolored nor is there any moisture in the oil filler cap.
  • mhutchinsonmhutchinson Posts: 17
    Driver side fog light needs replacement. Found the bulb. Need help getting the casing free from the spoiler. This is the oval casing and round lens type. I don't see a pry slot or a screw. Do I have to go in from underneath and behind the casing?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,529
    I think you need to pop the grille out first, then you'll see the bolts that hold the assembly. You have to take it out to replace the bulb.

    MODERATOR

  • mhutchinsonmhutchinson Posts: 17
    The "grill"? Do you mean the 6" flat round piece surrounding the lens?
    From the front or the back side?
    Thanks for responding so quickly!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,529
    I'm only looking at a rather bad drawing of the area, and reading what it says to do. Looks like there are little pry-bolts that come out in front?

    MODERATOR

  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,359
    edited May 2010
    The valley pan gasket may well be the problem. Here's a brief explanation of the repair procedure. It's a long but relatively simple DIY weekend project.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • Thanks. You gently tug/pull the flat plastic cover out towards the front of the car using the round frame around the lens for grip. There are three plastic tabs that will release from the bumper, two inbound from the light and one outbound (it releases last). There is one small bolt behind the cover. The bulb is a #9006 55w.
  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 16,595
    My remote unlock/lock feature is inoperative. At first I thought the batteries embedded in the keys were discharged. They are supposed to recharge as you drive but even a 500 mile+ round trip didn't revive them. My indie techs have attempted a "recode" but that didn't work either. Anybody got any ideas other than spending $150 for a new key from BMW?

    MY 2000 BMW 528iA (E39).

    2000 BMW 528i, 2001 BMW 330CiC

  • ghstudioghstudio Posts: 931
    battery could be dead and not capable of holding a charge. The only way to know is to take the key apart and check the battery with a voltmeter.
  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 16,595
    They claim that the key cannot be taken apart for battery replacement although some older keys can be.

    In any case it seems unlikely that both batteries would fail simultaneously (I have two keys).

    2000 BMW 528i, 2001 BMW 330CiC

  • james27james27 Posts: 433
    Few rechargable batteries last forever, and those in the same batch might very well die at the same time, or nearly the same time. I didn't realize BMW used rechargable batteries in their keyfobs...
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