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BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

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  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    edited November 2011
    So what you're saying is that you agree with me that there are no "Standards". Yes, no?
  • james27james27 Posts: 433
    Both of them state that there is no good way to determine if the tire was damaged, and after a flat to replace them...while that may not be an 'industry or government' standard, when multiple manufacturers express the same thing, it is a defacto standard. Performing maintenance that is against the manufacturers' recommendations puts the shop in a severe liability situation, and they'll likely refuse to repair a runflat. Now, if you want to do it yourself, that's up to you.
  • FWIW I asked a friend who is a salesman for the Cadillac dealler here abot the run flat thing and he said if it has not been driven on much after the flat then it should be a ble to be patched- I guess what ya'll are saying is that it may be hard to find someone who will do it.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    edited November 2011
    Sorry, your arguments are falling on deaf ears as more and more these days, tire shops are more than willing to do repairs on RFTs. The fact is, there is no "Standard" that says they shouldn't; manufacturer recommendations against repairing are just that, "Recommedations", and as such, are not binding in any way.

    With the above said, I am not at all a fan of RFTs, and there is no way I'd have them on any car of mine. If I wind up with a new F30 328i in the next twelve to eighteen months, the odds are it will come from the factory with RFTs, and as soon as I get the car back here to the States (I'll likely do another European Delivery), the RFTs will come off and a set of GFTs will go in their place.
  • busirisbusiris Posts: 3,490
    edited November 2011
    I have had Goodyear RFT's repaired at my local Goodyear (Gemini) tire dealer. While they will not repair ANY tire with a puncture along the outer tread section, they have repaired RFT's on my wife's MINI.

    If anyone is inclined to expend the effort, they can find opinions "pro and con" on RFT repair. The fact of the matter seems to be that a qualified, competent tire dealer equipped with the proper RFT mounting equipment can indeed repair RFT's.

    From the Continental site link a couple of postings back...

    Continental advises that a repair to one of its tires invalidates the
    manufacturer’s warranty.


    Seems Continental is against any tire repair, RFT or GFT.
  • james27james27 Posts: 433
    None of the sites are saying that it isn't possible to make a RFT air tight, it's just that because of the way they are made, and the unknown manner it may have been driven while flat (heat is the big problem, and driving too fast or letting it build up by driving longer than allowed) can compromise it internally that is NOT visible. So, to protect themselves, their policy is to not do it. Independent garages can do what they want, but if you wanted any manufacturer support, you're not likely to get it on a repaired RFT.

    I would think that if you treated it like a normal tire, and stopped as soon as you noticed it was flat (although I had one boss that asked me what the 'crown' symbol on his panel mean, as it had been there for months), it should be safely repairable as long as it wasn't in the sidewall area, just like most any tire.

    There are a lot of inept people out there that don't have a clue. Then, there's the enthusiast that notices the slightest change. Repair at your discretion, but they all advise it may not be safe. If you know you haven't overdriven it while flat, and it's in a safe spot to patch, I'd try to get one of mine patched.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,031
    i think it's just their lawyers who wrote that, not their engineers.

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  • busirisbusiris Posts: 3,490
    Maybe, but as I stated earlier, I have had Goodyear RFTs repaired at Goodyear company stores. Seems that a company owned store would follow company policy.

    I do agree with you, however, that, if the RFT performs as intended, it can be difficult for the untrained eye to make an adequate judgment on the tire. Still, to one with adequate experience, they can tell whether a RFT is worthy of repair.

    Like Continental's warranty policy, I doubt any company would warrant a patched RFT... Which seems understandable and reasonable to me.

    And, as Mr. Shiftright said... Warranties and such are written by lawyers, not engineers.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    There is no "standard" when it comes to repairing RFTs; many shops will happily perform the repair, and many will not.
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Forest Lakes, AZPosts: 3,278
    I can easily see tire shops in my part of the world refusing to repair RFTs, given the crap they continue to give me about putting new tires on the steering axles (that'd be the front) of my verhicles. I often replace tires two at a time (rather than all four at once), and the last several times I've had these people tell me that new tires should "always" go on the rear. B.S. There may be some merit to that in climates where it may rain once in awhile and/or snow, but here in the desert dictating where tires should be placed based on some over- or under-steer study interpreted by some lawyer someplace is completely irrelevant.

    That, and I've had them refuse to repair GFTs because they were "too worn," even though the wear bars weren't making contact with the pavement at all, let alone clear across.

    In short, they won't do what I request, and I can see the same thing happening with RFTs, particularly if the other option is to sell a $250-300 new tire.

    I fear this is partly due to the flurry of lawsuits resulting from the Ford Exploder fiasco 10 or 15 years ago, combined with the desire to sell as many new tires as possible.
  • gardisgardis Posts: 185
    Guys,
    I have a CPO 5 series, 2007 530i which I love. It still has til JUN2012 on the warranty. I am finding that every 3,000 miles or so, I am adding one quart of oil. I've gotten the oil warning on the iDrive when this happens. I spoke to my tech rep whom I've known over the years and I trust her (she and her husband have a CPO 7 series 2006 so she put her money where her mouth is) and she tells me these newer engines (i used to have a 1996 3 series) this is typical useage of oil, that BMW specifies that it's normal to put a quart in every 1000 miles even. Nothing to worry about. The car is definitely not burning oil, but I don't remember adding oil to my 3 series. Otherwise I love the car, it has 40K miles and is beautiful.
  • gardisgardis Posts: 185
    guys,
    update this morning: got into the car, all systems show normal on the iDrive. I didn't add the quart yet. I'm waiting to see what happens. But still why would that warning come on? And it has happened in the past. The last time I added was about 3000 miles ago.
  • james27james27 Posts: 433
    edited November 2011
    Year-to-year, there are differences in how the sensor works. I've got a 2011, and it needs the motor to be on for more than a few miles before it can measure the oil level. Mine's a 535, and I've got about 8K miles on it (it's pretty new), but it still shows max oil level once it can actually report it. I've heard that the V-8's regularly use more oil than the I-6. In some ways, I miss a dip stick. I'd like to be able to check it while in the garage, before I leave, rather than having to wait to have driven enough so it can get an accurate measurement.
  • gardisgardis Posts: 185
    guys, I guess it had to register, yup, I'm needing to add that quart.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,031
    edited November 2011
    Well a shop can do whatever it wants but it's possible their shyness is due more to a lack of knowledge. I deal with two tire shops and both repair RFTs just as happily as you please, presuming it CAN be repaired of course.

    If I were an RFT owner (not any longer, got rid of 'em) and I had a flat, I'd do whatever was possible and prudent to avoid buying another RFT, and if the other 3 RFTs on my car were say down to 4 to 6 / 32nds, I'd just ditch the 3 good tires and start over with normal tires, get the spare kit or whatever, and live happily ever after like I did. I have a better ride, better handling and oh, so much quieter. :)

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  • busirisbusiris Posts: 3,490
    Four weeks? At a BMW dealership???

    I suspect there is more to this issue than we are seeing in your posting.

    After all, there are a finite number of things that would keep any car from running...
  • yes BMW service center.
  • I am not a real fan of the legal climate in the US, but when a company repeatedly denies the existence of customer complaints, it is time for a class action wake up call.
    A quick follow through of a web search of “ventilation odor” or other similar term produced hundreds of owners who have had smell issues with their BMW. My 3rd and likely final BMW due to this issue is a 2009 535xi. What a great car. This followed my X5 and along the way we picked up a Z4. All good. All fun. All solid.
    Four months ago the 535 began to smell. As widely described on the internet, a smell when you turn the car on that passes. My fix was to turn the fan off until I drove it for 5-10 minutes, then turn the system on. Then the service department did the air freshener thing. Then they did a clean out. Well, things are a smidge better but still not tolerable. How bad is it? Please don’t judge me, but I have begun to prefer driving our Lexus 250hs over the 5-series. Sad but a glorified golf cart is winning out over a real car because of the smell.
    Well, the lease is up and I took it in for one last shot at service. My service writer, who is tremendous, gave me the following word from on high, “Complaints of this nature are not caused by defects of material or workmanship, but rather by the environmental conditions in which the vehicle is operated. Consequently, there is no warranty reimbursement for labor or materials associated with the disinfection of the evaporator.” Much less replacing it, which is what is actually required to fix the issue. Bull feces, bull feces, bull feces.
    Consequently I will dump old stinky on some unsuspecting soul and NEVER buy a BMW again.
    My dealership has no jurisdiction to resolve this. Is there anyone out there who has contact data on the high level management people who handle BMW customer complaints? I would like to let them know why they lost a good customer.
    Thanks
  • Within 5 days of each other, the fuel gauge suddenly dropped to empty and the airbag warning light came on, both while driving the car down the road. I have disconnected the battery twice now, after refueling, as I am using the trip meter to avoid running out of gas. Any suggestions on why these items might be failing? Could this be a fuse or computer problem? Might there be another "reset" solution?
    Thanks.
  • To Shipo, How do you come to the notion AMSOIL is "snake oil" ??? The company has been around since 1972 and was the first to have a API rated fully synthetic engine oil for passenger cars ???

    Here's two links you can check:
    http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2808.pdf
    http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g1990.pdf

    By the way when a product is a gimmic / snake oil product that company doesn't stay in business for over forty years and manage to become 100% debt free.

    So next time your wanting to give free advice please have your facts correct. And if you want please visit the Federal Trade Commision web site and perform a search of cases against AMSOIL for fraud and misleading advertisment. Then check the other motor oil companies. After that judge for yourself.
  • Well, if a certain brand of oil is "required" by a manufacturer it has to be provided to the consumer free of charge by the manufacturer.

    You may want to read the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act of 1975 before giving out advice.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,031
    edited February 2012
    Please don't post any hot links about AMSOIL if you sell it--this is regarded as soliciting and posts can be removed by your host.

    If you aren't a dealer, we have specific topics on oil such as SYNTHETIC MOTOR OIL and I'd invite you on behalf of your host, to talk about comparative qualities of oil in one of those topics.

    here's another topic you might enjoy: FUEL AND OIL ADDITIVES

    Let's keep this topic on target for BMW 5 Series Maintenance and Repair

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  • busirisbusiris Posts: 3,490
    Just my opinion, but you do know you responded to a 3 year old posting, don't you?

    I can't say, but was the oil shown in the PDF your post displayed available (with the same specs as in the PDF) in March 2009?

    A lot can change in 3 years.

    And, it's certainly not beyond the imagination to think that independent shops would recommend a product that is contrary to the manufacturer's recommendations...

    Just sayin'...
  • james27james27 Posts: 433
    BMW's stand (as I understand it) is that for best, long-term performance, knowing their specific metalurgy, they want you to use oils that have passed the LL-01 testing procedure (the M-series uses a different testing and certification). As far as I know, Amsoil does not have an oil that has submitted to or passed that test certification. that doesn't mean it may not be a good oil, but that it has not elected to try to pass that test. So, the user is in a quandry - use an oil they know is acceptable to the manufacturer (there are probably at least 5 or so available that I've found), or something else, they aren't sure about. At least during the warranty period, the oil changes are free, so that decision is put off for at least a few years.
  • busirisbusiris Posts: 3,490
    edited February 2012
    I remember looking this up a year or so ago, and at the time, could only find 2 oils officially meeting BMW's recommendations that were available in the US.

    One was Mobil 0W40, and the other was Castrol... At least, that's how I remember it.

    Since I can buy BMW oil cheaper at my local dealer using my BMWCCA discount than I can buy Mobil 1 at Walmart, I didn't dig any deeper.

    Here is what BMW currently states:

    http://www.bmwusa.com/Standard/Content/Owner/SyntheticEngineOils.aspx

    I don't believe either of the oils listed in the poster's PDF links are BMW LL-01, but are LL-04...
  • james27james27 Posts: 433
    BMW, if I remember correctly, has three different specs for their engines: Non-M's, M's, and diesels. There may also be a difference between what they spec for Europe verses the USA.
  • busirisbusiris Posts: 3,490
    Agreed. The M series use 10w60 as the primary recommended viscosity.

    I have no idea if Eurpoean models have different recommendations.

    Frankly, I couldn't tell you the difference between LL-01 and LL-04. I'm guessing the LL stands for "long lifetime"...
  • james27james27 Posts: 433
    You'd have to find a copy of their specifictions, and then, you'd probably not know unless you were in the industry. Never looked for it, it might be easily found.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 29,145
    LL does stand for LongLife..

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,031
    BMW even specs LL brake fluids.

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