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self oil change

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Comments

  • adc100adc100 Posts: 1,521
    the pan better (with contaminents suspended and not staying on the sides/bottom of pan-like brorjace said). Trying to make it simple.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    unless your drain plug is magnetic, in which case most of the stuff sticks to it after it settles.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,792
    When I had my VW, I bought John Muir's book.." How to keep your VW alive" Great book and I followed his advise.

    Every 3000 miles I would lie on my back, pull down the oil screen (which was never dirty) change my oil, and adjust my valves which had to be DEAD COLD according to John.

    Funny, I don't think the valves ever needed to be adjusted.

    That chicken wire oil screen was pretty worthless.
  • bburton1bburton1 Posts: 395
    Bought my first accord-an 80-being a tightwad-did my own maintance. Couldn't believe the cost of oil filters-bought sears filters and Castrol by the case on sale. Got my genuine Honda Maintenance Manual-said "Replace crush washer every oil change." Bought 10 or so crush washers. Changed oil first time-crush washer still looked OK-used it again. Did it over and over for the next 200K on that accord-150K on the next and for 112K on my current accord. All three are still on the road-first one leaks a little oil-but all had the original crush washer for a total of over 460K.

    Sad conclusion-can only find 8 crush washers in my tool box today-lost 2 after 20+ years.

    Replace those crush washers HA HA HA
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    I just changed the oil on my friend's Integra TODAY and didn't replace the crush gasket because he didn't have one. I put the plug back in, filled it up with oil, and watched a slow but steady drip,.... drip,.... drip, coming right from the drain plug. The drain plug threads were in perfect condition as was the oil pan threads, and it was torqued to 33 ft-lbs per honda's recommendations (I usually don't torque the drain plug, but did this time since I wasn't replacing the gasket). Needless to say, I had to go to honda in my car, get a new crush gasket, hook the vaccum cleaner up to the oil fill hole (to save the 3.75 quarts of mobil 1) remove the drain plug, put on a new gasket, reinstall the drain plug, torque to 33 lbs, and guess what? No leak. Honda recommends replacing those for a reason (to prevent leaks and overtightening) and I found out why today. The #1 complaint at honda service departments are stripped oil pans. They strip very easily if you don't replace the gasket. Most knuckleheads would have just tighted up the plug a little more to make it stop leaking. When you replace the aluminum gasket, #1 it molds itself to the oil pan after it is "crushed" and #2, you greatly reduce the risk of overtightening it because you only tighten it until it is fully crushed. It only crushes one time and that's it. I had an integra for 130,000 miles and did every oil change myself and replaced the gasket every single time. After the initial loosening of my plug, you could spin the plug out with your fingers. Almost EVERY other honda (I have done TONS of hondas) that I have done with that many miles or less, had a tough time getting the plug out (had to use the wrench until the plug was half way out) and a new plug wouldn't help. I guess you were REALLY lucky.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Which is why I replaced my drain plugs with Fumoto Valves, a flip of the spring loaded lever and the oil comes out, no messy plugs, no stripped threads, no gaskets, no mess and they do work, they do not open by themselves and they last forever.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,352
    Do they decrease your ground clearance?

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,792
    I guess I don't understand but that's O.K....

    Honda reccomends using a new crush washer with every oil change.

    So, you went out and bought those crush washers which cost something like thirty cents...right?

    But you won't use them?

    I must be missing something here...?
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Ground clearance, depends on the oil pan and plug location. They suggest that if you have a low riding suspenson and a plug hole that is vertical not to use one. Extends about 1/2 inch more then OEM plug. Really do work great, easy to use no plugs falling into pan or oil all over hands etc.

    www.fumotousa.com
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    I've seen those before on cars. I guess I don't know why I never used one on my integra, seems like a good idea, especially on Hondas and Acuras. Oh well, my mazda oil pan isn't as picky as a Honda/Acura with regards to the crush gaskets. Oh yeah, I think those Honda crush gaskets are less than 30 cents if you buy a bag of them. It doesn't make sense to not replace them. They are neither hard or expensive to replace and if Honda says so, I do. They must know something about the cars that they make.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    and it works like a charm. Old Jiffy Lube trick. put a rag over the vaccuum hole so it fits snugly against the valve cover. Once you remove the plug, it makes a funny gurgling sound.
  • curreycurrey Posts: 144
    You've seen a lot of changes at Jiffy Lube, have you seen a new Tribute/Escape yet? I am getting ready to do my first oil change so I crawled under there and took a look. I hate to say it but this will be my first "do it yourself" oil change, however, could it be as simple as it appears. The filter looks easy to get at and the drain plug is right there opposite side of the where the filter is. Am I not looking at the right plug? Thanks in advance for any info.
  • dpwestlakedpwestlake Posts: 207
    That's about it. Unscrew the filter, clean the surface on the engine where the gasket makes contact, put a film of oil on the gasket on the new filter, screw it on hand tight.

    Take the plug out, wait for the oil to drain, put the pug back in and add the proper amount of oil to the engine.

    Start it, check for leaks, and you're done.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 22,070
    I was a little worried about changing the oil myself when I first got my Intrepid. I guess it was just that "new car" fear, that everything would be too hi-tech and complicated to get to.

    Turns out the Intrepid is one of the easiest cars I've ever changed the oil on! The only tricky part is getting the jack just right, or you'll jack up the engine!

    My grandfather used to be a part-time mechanic, and he quit working on cars in the mid 70's, because they started getting too complicated for him. I think that may be where part of my "new car" fear is rooted!

    -Andre
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    dpwestlake summed it up. I am assuming you have the 6 cylinder. I don't believe that those have drains on the transmission, so the oil plug shouldn't be hard to mistake. Just be careful, the oil filter is near one of the exhaust manifolds. If you have the 3.0L duratec V6, it should hold 5.5 quarts of oil. Don't worry about finding 5w20 oil, 5w30 will work just fine. Oh yeah, make sure the old filter gasket comes off with the filter.
  • curreycurrey Posts: 144
    After dealing with my 92 Saturn on a simple battery change for the last 9 years, well, dealing with is an understatement as the heat shield over the battery was designed by a moron, I was a little timid of doing my own oil on any new car. But like I said, when I crawled under the Tribute I was just amazed at how logically everything appeared to be placed. Oh, yes newcar, I have the 3.0l V6 engine. As for 5W-20, well I am going to use that weight as Amsoil makes it in a synthetic. At least for 36 months/50,000 miles. Then I will switch to the 5W-30. Thanks again guys.
  • curreycurrey Posts: 144
    but, shouldn't I drain the majority of the oil first and then change out the old filter while the oil is draining?
  • dpwestlakedpwestlake Posts: 207
    doesn't matter.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    That is not a stupid question. When I am at work and the customer is watching the oil change I always seem to have some customer tell the guy upstairs that you cannot add oil with the oil filter off. Like Dpwestlake said, it doesn't matter, but the oil will drain quicker if it is draining while the oil cap is off, the dipstick is pulled, and the oil filter is off.
  • dpwestlakedpwestlake Posts: 207
    Actually any one of those three will provide a vent so the oil drains faster.
  • altondaltond Posts: 1
    I changed the oil my-self on my wife's BMW 318is. Is there a way to reset the computer so that the ois service lights are reset. Thanks
    Daved 710
  • curreycurrey Posts: 144
    After thirty some years, I can't wait to change my own oil . . . now when is that UPS guy going to show up with my amsoil order?
  • haspelbeinhaspelbein Posts: 227
    Yes, there are several tools on the market, and they start at $50 or so. Some combine the reset tool with an ODB-II scanner for engine trouble codes.

    (see http://www.peakeresearch.com/si_tool.shtml )


    However, if you just change the oil and don't do any other service, I would probably just drive the car to the nearest BMW dealership and have them reset it. Mine does that for free.

  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    One of the reasons I hate Bimmers, (love to own an M3 though) arrogant service depts. require you to go in to get the service light reset and/or purchase a tool. I would negotiate the tool as a part of the purchase price. The GM cars that have this function can be reset via a button on the dash or via the ignition.
  • haspelbeinhaspelbein Posts: 227
    ...try Mercedes. The BMW service departments I've dealt with were actually quite the opposite, overly friendly. (For that amount of money, I'd be too.)
    And believe me, the $50 for the reset tool would be negligible compared to the cost of buying and owning an M3.
  • curreycurrey Posts: 144
    Thanks to all for answering my questions. Yesterday I performed my first oil change on the Tribute. She know has a full belly of Amsoil 5W-20 and a Amsoil filter (although the motorcraft filter I took off looked pretty good, aren't they made be purolator?). Anyway, all went smooth until I had to remove the old filter. The engine was hot, so the filter was a little tight. I have to admit, that I had her up on the ramps (thanks for the Kmart tip, they were only $14.97 for the set) and the oil draining before I realized that I didn't buy a wrench to remove the filter. Oh well, the screwdriver came to the rescue. I replaced the filter, the plug, and 5 quarts, and let her run for a few minutes. No leaks. Took her down off the ramps and finished filling her with the next 1/2 quart. Drover to dinner, no leaks, and checked her again this morning, no leaks. I'm know good for the next 7500 miles/six months. Thanks again all.
  • kinleykinley Posts: 854
    There are some jars with very large lids that are on very tight. Using one of the oil filter wrenches solved the problem.
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