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2013 and earlier Nissan Maxima Prices Paid and Buying Experience

flyinlowflyinlow Posts: 62
edited January 29 in Nissan
I bought a 2000 Maxima instead of a Passat in part because the nearest VW dealer is over 50 miles away and East Tennessee Nissan is less than 1 mile from my house. However, I'm not too impressed with them so far. There are rumors around (it's a small town) that the owner is a Yankee from Michigan who uses this and several other car dealerships to launder his drug money. But I digress: what I know is that the buying "experience" was the classic old-fashioned boiler room runaround job with a salesman, assistant manager/closer, sales manager and finance guy all trying to work us over. The service manager isn't very efficient or competent, either. But I like the car.


  • gnlgnl Posts: 94
    Bought mine from Cole-Gilmore in Kalamazoo. The buying experience was very straight-forward and simple. I had been shopping around a lot and was debating between the Infiniti I-30 and the Maxima GLE. Cole-Gilmore didn't have much stock, but happened to have the exact car I wanted - Satin Blue Pearl GLE with Meridian seats, sunroof, traction control, etc. The Infiniti dealer didn't have an L with traction control, which was a deal breaker. The salesman at C-G was a young college kid, we came to terms on price very quickly, no run arounds with managers of any type. Now I'm living just outside of Wash. D.C., have only had scheduled maintenance and seems fine. For service we go to a dealer whose cars for sale did NOT have ADM and all that nonsense - just hedging our bets - figure a dealer who plays games on sales will also fool around with service.
  • kyleknickskyleknicks Posts: 433
    Bay ridge nissan...overall, they were trying to screw us in every angle. the worst thing is that, this was recommended by a friend who between him and our friends have bought or leased 5 cars from them. we agreed on a price after 2 trips to the dealership, then put us through the finance guy who tried to get another $500 out of us. then, just gave in at the end and have them install an extra alarm on top of the factory alarm for that 500bucks. all in all, i believe we paid invoice + the 500bucks, which we treated as dest charge cause we didn't get charged that + tax. no other charges such as doc fee or whatever else they could come up with. im sure i could've went to another dealership and came up with this price without all the hassle i went thru with Bay Ridge nissan. anyone have questions on buying a car, email me... i'm going thru buying another car, an 01 accord coupe for my girlfriend so u could call me an
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    I am in the position of choosing between an '01 or '02 Maxima. Could anyone here help me with information on how much depreciation the '01 will take as a 1 year old car now that the '02's are out. This will help a lot in the decission.

  • my beloved 93 s w/merely 106k miles went in for service last week--same dealership where i'd bought it used 4 years ago. verdict: neither roadworthy nor worth fixing. i knew it pulled to the right a bit & made a few mild noises, but i had no idea it was in this bad shape. exhaust, ball joints, possible valve job, brakes, & tires. they say they'll sell it to the wholesaler for a thousand or so. can this be for real? i can't believe it's not worth fixing. any coments?
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,020
    So sorry to hear about your Maxima troubles. Have you looked at the Nissan Maxima Problems discussion in Maintenance & Repair? Perhaps some other owners there can offer you some support and advice.

    Good luck!

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  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    Checked Edmunds for a 1993 GXE list trade-in at 4396, retail $6,500. Could it be that the mechanic wants to be the purchaser at auction. I know this may sound like a Condit answer, but the dealer could be a cheat, or completely honest, a very good, careful mechanic, or one who wants to make a good deal for himself. See if you can find an independent Nissan specialist. Have him do a compression test on the engine, and any relevant tests to determine the health of your engine. If it can be repaired at a reasonable cost then consider the other repairs as well. . NONE of the other repairs merit junking the car.

    Tom and Ray of have calculated that every car (regardless of age) needs about 1200/year for maintenance and repairs. I took their advice about 3 years ago and have the appropriate amount deducted directly from my paycheck into a special auto account. This allows you to save up in easy years for those that are not so good. I generally purchase cars at 50-60K miles and my goal is to run them to 200,000. I’ve got a 1988 Dodge Aires to 170,000 miles. Let me relate this year’s experience with one of my vehicles.

    My wife (spotless driving record) slid on some ice in January in our 1991 Mazda. We thought that it just needed an alignment. We took it into the tire shop. They said it needed a new wheel. Purchased the wheel. They couldn't align the car. A lot of stuff was bent. Went to the Mazda specialist and not only did we need to replace steering components because of the accident, but many had to be replaced because they were worn out. We also had to replace suspension items on the side that was not harmed in the accident. So we replaced the both struts, both strut mounts, the steering a-arm, right control arm and right wheel bearing. I had to pay for the strut mounts, and left side strut myself.

    After that repair, the car still jerked and wobbled when it hit a bump. We needed new tires anyway. Went back to the tire shop. Couldn't align it again. This time the left side needed a power control arm, and a new ball joint. Frankly the car had vibrated since I bought it 3 years ago, and we’d ignored it since an alignment seemed to minimize the problem. But it was now much worse.

    Fixed, and the car drives like it's new. Quiet and beautiful. Total Cost about 3,400. Half paid by insurance. I'm jealous of my wife because her accident actually saved us a bundle. The 2 prior years, total maintenance and repairs was only about $300.00 a year. If I take off $750.00 for the repair that was only caused by the accident, my total costs for 3 years comes to $2650.00. Well within the maintenance amount. The car behaves like it's new. What's more important is that I know know exactly when these components were replaced. I'd rather have a vehicle where I know the repairs that have been done and need to be done.

    This has happened on other cars I have had before. There is one bad year, then it works with minimal repairs for 3-5 years.

    My view is that if the car still looks and if the engine is intact without a huge expense go after the repairs. Let's look at your repairs.

    Tires -- there are a maintenance item, replacing them and an alignment them will improve your ride.

    Exhaust. This is a little early for that kind of a repair, but generally the repair for this will be free replacement parts for as long as you own the car -- if you go for a muffler specialist. (I prefer a local specialist over a chain since I was cheated by a major chain. George, are you listening). This is because they generally won't have to replace them again. The first set lasted 100,000 miles, and the second should last at least as long. I would consider this an ordinary maintenance option.

    Brakes. Maintenance item. If you've gotten more than 60,000 miles on these in suburban driving, this is excellent. The brakes are due for a replacement as ordinary wear and tear items.

    Ball Joint. This is a fairly normal wear item, depending on how it has been driven. I would recommend taking it to a tire store with a good reputation, who has a very experienced mechanic on steering repairs. Let him see what needs to be repaired.

    Valve Job. Find another trusted Nissan engine specialist. Have them check on the valves, and do other engine quality checks.If it is really expensive, and requires a full overhaul, then it might be time to consider letting it go.

    You don’t have to fix everything at once. The valve job appears iffy at this point. Unless it is damaging the engine further it can be postponed. I would probably fix the brakes, ball joint, and replace tires at the same time as the first repair. Also check shocks control arms and other suspension units.

    I find it hard to believe that a Maxima at 100,000 is shot, but a Nissan specialist mechanic outside of the dealership can tell you that independently. He is not involved in car sales – even indirectly.
  • Hello all. Wanted to know if any of you have had the timing belt replaced, and if replaced included the water pump. I purchased a 1995 GLE and negotiated a price because the owner apparently never new to replace the timing belt. It has 114,000 miles on it and is gorgeous. From all indications it should have been replaced at 70,000 miles. I've been quoted 250.00 plus 80.00 for the seals which seems reasonable. Your response is appreciated.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    both the timing belt and the water pump. Save a possible expensive repair further down the road.
  • aftyafty Posts: 499
    I'm pretty sure that the '95 Maxima uses a timing chain, not a belt. Not sure what the replacement schedule on that is, but it should last significantly longer than a timing belt.
  • gslevegsleve Posts: 183
    replacement is in the 200,000 mil if not more if it is a belt the price being quoted is pretty good given its a v6.
  • gslevegsleve Posts: 183
    no maxima is shot a 100k only if there was serious neglect these motors are rock solid have been considered as one of the most revered v6 motors in the industry well known for reliabilty and longevity get another opinion and fast
    seems dealer is pulling a fast one
  • Hello everyone, I have a 2000 Maxima SE. I noticed the small oil filter, (#15208 9e000) and am wondering if a larger oil filter will work. My other car is also a nissan 3.0v6 and its filter is larger and seems line up the same. Does anyone know if this can be done and/or what the nissan part # is??.
  • You are paying too much. Here in Nashville you could buy an 2008 with no miles on it for less. Go to a different dealer if you need too, but they will go lower.
  • Well all to let you know I am a 89 SE Maxima owner and running with 153000 miles. Wished I had waited to purchase the '93 SE when they went to the chain drive system. It needs no replacement, as it is self lubricated and with regular oil changes should never give you any problems. I am about to change my belt for the second time but other than that, MAKE MINE A MAXIMA.
  • I have a 2000 SE and need to have my 30K mile service done. What should I expect to pay for this? I priced two dealers and both are pushing $500...this seems high to me. They are telling me they will give the car a tune up etc. Does a brand new car need a tune up at 30K miles??? Isn't that why I bought a Nissan?

    Any info can be posted or send to

    Thanks to all who reply!
  • mirthmirth Posts: 1,212
    Every 30K miles is pretty standard for tune-ups. Unfortunately, dealers are ridiculous when it comes to pricing a tune-up. I mean, for most of the items it's just a matter of the tech glancing at it to confirm it's okay.

    Basically, it needs to be done. Your only options are to either try another dealer or find an independant shop.
  • sglatorsglator Posts: 20
    Hi guys,

    Could anybody recommend a reputable service department at Nissan dealership in Northern, Central NJ or NYC area?

  • I have had my 2000 SE w/5 speed to 2 different dealerships in the Philadelphia area - Montgomeryville (where I purchased the car) and Thompson. Montgomeryville is the worst. Their service manager can look you in the face and tell you a lie, even knowing that you know its a lie. I went to Thompson, who discovered that service bulletins that described my problems were not used by Montgomeryville and performed numerous repairs (ignition coils, 1 strut, 2 steering racks, back then front brakes). Now I caught their service manager in a lie and potential fraud. They told me that they "cross rotated" my tires because of a pulling after a regular rotation and state inspection. The repair order stated this, as well. Upon inspection, they undid the rotation that I paid for in the 37500 service.

    Also, has anyone ever had a Nissan dealership actually be able to replicate a problem?

  • rcmaxrcmax Posts: 11
    I have a 97'Maxima GXE with 75000 miles on it. I took it to the dealer as Nissan issued a recall on 97-98 Maximas for potential problem with the alternator.

    While waiting for the alernator to be replaced, the technician comes to me and says "Sir, the belt needs replacement as its quite cracked up. We will do it $90 instead of the usual $120 because we have already removed the alternator, replacing the belt will be easier." The alternator replacement was free for me as it was a manufacturer recall. But somehow I was not convinced of the "new" cracked belt problem the dealer discovered. I felt he just wanted to make an extra $90 for a lark. Ofcourse I did not get the belt changed.

    I still don't know if by "belt" he meant the timing belt or alternator belt. If its the alternator belt, has anyone of you had to replace it and if so after how many miles?

    I will appreciate your feedback. Thanks in advance.
  • I had an 2000 GLE. Had the brakes worked on ( replaced pads and turned rotors) by a Nissan dealer in my home town in South Georgia. Brakes ran well for around 200 miles, then stared making grinding noise when the wheels were wet or cold. After they warmed up the noise faded. Took the car to Gwinnett Nissan (Atlanta) where the service guy said " we don't warranty other Nissan dealer's workmanship" and I would have to take the car back ( 277 miles way ) to have the problem corrected. Needless to say I went to Gainesville Georgia to purchase my 2003 GLE. Other than that the car ran great.
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