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Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    pigeonlover: I would tend to agree with rowlandj that wheel bearings might be the problem, especially considering that you have 135k miles on them w/o prior replacement. My understanding is that if you are driving at highway speeds and turn your steering wheel slightly (not aggressively, of course!) either way, the noise will stop if it is a wheel bearing. I have a bad left front bearing on my '97 A4, 95k miles, and when I turn the wheel left the noise does stop. audiphile1
  • When I brought my 2001 Audi A4 to my dealer for a repair (four new ignition coils), they told me that it was time to replace the timing belt, The car has 75K miles on it. I agree with them, but they want $1450 for the job. I certainly want a knowledgeable Audi mechanic to do the job, but that price seems high. Does the price seem reasonable? Can anyone recommend a good Audi mechanic in the Boston area (or just north of Boston)? Or can any reliable repair shop do this job? Thanks.
  • Hello! I am looking into purchasing a 2006 Audi A4 2.0T. I have never owned an Audi before and wanted to get some information regarding maintenance and repair costs. It has 40,000 miles.

    I currently own a Lincoln Navigator. I'm wondering if repair and maintenance costs would be comparable to what I own now, higher, or lower. I had a Ford Explorer before that, so obviously the repair costs were cheaper on that than the Navigator.

    I'm just trying to get information online via reviews and just doing as much research as I can before I decide to purchase or not.

    Thanks in advance for any information!
    Erin
  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    Hi sandythek: $1,450 seems a bit on the high side, but I live in the St. Paul, and Twin Cities rates might be somewhat lower. The dealers here normally charge around $1,200, but there is a very good VW/Audi/Mercedes/Volvo/Japanese specialty repair shop in St. Paul that will do it for about $950. I would tend to shy away from the dealers unless they have a stelllar reputation. Dealer ratings can be very good or dismal, depending on the experience of a particular owner. My suggestion: Ask other Audi owners where they get their work done. The advantages of working with a good independent shop include generally lower rates AND, most importantly, you can build a relationship and work with the same tech every time. Good luck...audiphile1
  • nvnc514nvnc514 Posts: 2
    I am new to this forum and trying to get some information before I have to take my car in for repair. I have a 2003 A4 Cabriolet and while driving yesterday, my engine malfunction light started to flash and the engine seemed like it was going to die. I have always kept this vehicle in good running order. I took off the gas cap so see if that made a difference but the light is still on and flashing. My dealer is a 30 minute drive away and I am concerned about getting there without the car dying on me. Is it safe to drive this vehicle? Because its Sunday, the dealer is not open, but I am wondering if taking this to an Autozone first is a good idea. Thanks for your help.
  • eddie650eddie650 Posts: 26
    Have you had prior experience with one of your engine coils going bad? One of min on my 05 Cabriolet went bad and it made the engine run extremely rough.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    I wouldn't drive a car with a FLASHING engine light, no. It could mean that your catalytic converter is in real distress from a misfire, and might get damaged.

    MODERATOR

  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    Hi nvnc514: I would concur with eddie650 and Mr. Shiftright. I had the same flashing CEL on my 1.8T Passat, and it turned out to be a coil. Unfortunately, the dealer diagnostic ($100-125?) will likely cost more than the coil ($40-50?). Per Shiftright, it may not be a good idea to drive 30 miles. I would assume that any competent repair shop could diagnose the problem, and some will do it for free or a small charge and if it's a coil, which cylinder it is. Of course, it would be fair to let them do the repair. However, take heed about Shiftright's cat converter warning...you don't want to take a chance on a $700-800 replacement! audiphile1
  • nvnc514nvnc514 Posts: 2
    Thank you to all that responded. I ended up taking my 03 Cabriolet about 2 miles away to a dealer I particularly did not trust, but thought it was better than drive 30 minutes to the dealer where I bought the car. The problem was an engine coil so I had it repaired. My car is not under any warranty now so trying to decide if its worth it to consider an extended warranty.
  • roxproxp Posts: 4
    I have major problems with my 2008 A4. When I would step on the gas pedal, the car engine would rev, but the car would go nowhere. I have had it in Riverside Audi service at least 3 times. I was told it was the gas, then I was told it was the floor mat getting in the way of the pedal (how stupid). Last Monday, 8/10, my car was towed into Service. Needless to say, the car is still sitting there and now was told the part is on backorder and will be another week. I requested Audi of America to pay for the car I rented being they never fixed the car from the beginning, Well, they said their policy does not permit them to do something like that. My A4, was a death trap waiting to happen. I DO NOT RECOMMEND ANYONE BUY/LEASE AUDI
  • samaudisamaudi Posts: 10
    I don't think that a fair recommendation, I have a 2005.5 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro and have had no problems with it for the 4 years that I have had it. It has been nothing but reliable and drives just as well as it did the first day I got it.

    If Riverside Audi isn't fixing the problem, bring it to another Audi dealer. Palisades Audi on Rt. 59 in Nyack has always taken care of me and will give you one of their loaner cars for $15 a day.
  • embeedueceembeeduece Posts: 260
    Hey, folks. 2005 Audi A4 Quattro. In-dash cup holder broke. I'd like to order the part online and swap it out myself. Any installation instructions, links, etc. would be greatly appreciated. I did a discussion search but didn't see this info posted previously.

    Also, I had a speed sensitive growl once; turned out to be a bad motor mount. Engine was thusly making odd noises as it wasn't stable. Might not be the problem discussed a few posts up, but thought I'd mention it.

    Thanks! :shades:
  • mercopsmercops Posts: 34
    I have not had the chance to do a replacement on the cupholder but did find a thread on the process at:

    http://www.audi-forums.com/b6-forum/46777-cupholder-removal-replacement.html

    It does not give any real details or photos but does give a hint as to how it can be removed and a new one installed. Hope it helps.
    Cheers
  • embeedueceembeeduece Posts: 260
    Thanks for the link!
  • Jon,

    I'm having the same problem with my A4. Just started yesterday.

    Were you able to determine the issue? How was it resolved? Any help is greatly appreciated.
  • my 97 a4 1.8 b5 handbrake light is always on...can anyone tell me why...thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    Probably the switch under the handbrake loosened up and needs adjustment, or is broken.

    MODERATOR

  • I just recently purchased a 2003 A4 1.8T Quattro with 80,000 on it. It's my first time buying a German car and know nothing about them. Let me take that back. All I knew was they're expensive to fix, and, depending on the year they're gonna need a lot of fixing. Lets just say I didn't do my homework thoroughly. After three weeks i've had three major problems.
    First, it seems like the locking mechanism fell out in one of the back doors. The rest of the car will lock and alarm except that door.
    Second, If i turn the key back to far while its in the igniton, then it seems to come loose. The key and the ignition will just spin in the socket until it catches. The third and most important one is the Gear shifter.
    The transmission is an automatic, with the auto manual. The problem I have is that after about a minute of drive time it seems to want to go hay wire. While in drive it will bounce back and fourth between auto manual and regular auto. Then while in reg auto position, it will get stuck in auto manual, so I have to click it over to auto manual to shift. Sometimes it wont even shift in that position, sometimes it will get stuck in what ever gear it happens to be in when shifted over. THEN, while in auto manual it will shift back over to drive. It’s a cluster f#$k, and it gets annoying.

    The car drives and rides awesome when it wants to but these problems are frustrating. :cry:
  • kinctkinct Posts: 59
    You've nicely outlined why I buy new. Granted, there are people that will sell a car with a mere 6 years, 80k miles because "it's time to move to a new car", but more likely, that person was having problems. They put duct tape & bailing wire over any problem and sold it. Congrats, you're the buyer. I don't recall who had the following famous quote:

    "I never met anyone who sold a car because it was running too well."

    When you buy new, you are much less likely to encounter hosts of flaky issues (please note, I didn't say "won't encounter flaky issues"). My wife and I have owned 6 German cars over my 29 year driving career (hers too) and the only ones that were problematic were the two that we purchased used (my first car was a 73 super beetle, my wife's was a 77 Scirocco). Yes, those two had problems.

    Aside from that:

    - 87 GTI - sold at 213,000 miles, sold still running (though it did need some engine work)
    - 86 Golf - sold at 194,000 miles, sold just due to us needing more room (we had our third child and needed more room). It was running like a champ, the interior & exterior were like new. The guy who bought it was bloody ecstatic (he was a college kid, so my wife demanded we give it to him for a low price).
    - 99 Passat - sold at 224,800 miles, sold it running still beautifully, but I wanted something new, it was 9+ years old. Interior like new, exterior pretty close to new.
    - now on an 07 Audi A4 (practically brand spanking new, 12,700 miles). May it lead a long life.

    On German cars purchased new, we're happy with 4 of 4.
    On the two purchased used, the Scirocco was a real headache - only well after my wife (girlfriend at the time) bought it did we find out it had been in a major accident. We wished we could have loved that car.... The beetle had been horribly abused, but my father and I rebuilt it - we had it about 150k miles (over what it already had on it). Sold it only because I simply lacked the time to maintain it and cute little field mice were making their homes in it.

    Buy used, you're rolling the dice (and the odds are not so good)

    Buy new, you're rolling the dice (but the odds are a hell of a lot better)

    If you buy it new, maintain it! Real keys are oil change (every 5k miles, full synth oil only) and timing belts (follow the recommendations religously).

    Oh, and we always buy manual tranny's (except for a Volvo wagon and 04 Sienna for the wife). The manual transmissions are *much* more reliable than automatics and these new fangled DSG's. On any of the cars bought new, we *never* had any transmission issue or even replaced a clutch. The DSGs have not been around long enough to say how reliable they will be, but they are more complex, so I would anticipate them to be less reliable.

    OK, I'll get off my soap box now. :-)
  • swj1218,
    You make a good argument for buying new. However, I have been forced to work under a different program so far. I say to myself, I can not afford to make $300-$500 payments every month to own a new car, so I will need to find the best darn used car out there and then expect to spend about $500-$800 per year on maintenance. That way I get to drive a really good car but I'm not tied down on payments every month. That being said, I have a 99 Audi A4 Quattro with 147k miles on it and running pretty smoothly. I have had for four years now and have done all the major maintenance on it. However, this being my first Audi, I just wonder how long I should keep it before either the transmission or the engine will fail on me. Any thoughts or inputs are appreciated.
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