Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair



  • I bought my extended warranty thru CarMax; they call it Max Care. According to CarMax's website, they use different vendors for the warranty. Mine seems to be thru Motor Warranty Services of North America. So far so good. My service rep at Audi knows how to spin things to make it more likely that they will cover repairs etc, so that helps.

  • Get the 48K if you plan to keep the car. All German car parts are highly over-priced (from Audi to Opel).

    I wanted to get an A4 but I was horrified to see the Consumer Reports data for VW/Audi. I trust the report because they got my current car spot-on. The A4 was not nearly as bad as the Passat or Jetta, but they share the same base 2.0 engine. I'm still tempted though....Not sure what to do
  • Hi, I bought my audi A4 frrom Prestige Imports. big mistake!!! My key has broken inside the ignition twice. Once in April 2009 and Then September of 2009. both ocassions leaving me without a car for several weeks as well as NO loaner car, Mind you, I was promised a loaner car in writing when I purchased my brand new Audi. If for any reason my car had a problem I didn't have to worry (LIES). Prestige's lame excuse was that they only have 17 loaners and that they were all booked and they couldn't give me a car that I would have to wait until a cancelation came through. So I called every day to see if someone cancelled and i was always told the same thing no cancelation yet. So I decided to call as someone else to do brakes and other stuff, ETC. and to my surprise there were 2 cancellations and they could fit me in for the very next day. I asked to be transfered to the service manager who was dealing with my car . When I asked him why he had told me that there were no cancellations and the other service manager told me otherwise. He told me to hold on and then told me another lame excuse that oh, there must have been a mistake, ETC. PRESTIGE IMPORTS ARE ALL LIERS. AS WELL AS BRATT HIMSELF. THE OWNER. BEWARE!!!! I SPOKE TO HIM ON THE VERY SAME NIGHT THAT MY CAR KEY BROKE INSIDE THE IGNITION. I TOOK THE CAR TO THE DEALER BECAUSE THE CAR STILL RAN SINCE THE KEY BROKE INSIDE WHEN IT WAS ALREADY ON. I ASKED MR. BRATT HIMSELF. IF THEY CAN HELP ME GET A LOANER. AFTER GETTING HIS ATTENTION WHICH WAS KIND OF DIFFICULT DUE TO HIS ASST. MANAGER WHO KEPT ON INSISTING THAT WHAT EVER HE TOLD ME BRATT WOULD DO THE SAME. SO I WALKED UP TO HIM AND ASKED HIM ABOUT MY CAR AND ALL THE OTHER PROBLEMS THAT I HAVE HAD WITH MY CAR. HE DIDN'T WANT TO HERE IT. HE SADI THAT THERE WAS NOTHING HE COULD DO...sO MY ADVICE TO YOU DON'T BUY ANY CAR FROM PRESTIGE IMPORTS..... THEY TREAT YOU AS IF YOU ARE NOTHING.
  • mercopsmercops Posts: 34
    Sorry to hear about your bad experience. I believe part of the problem you face is that the dealer (Prestige) carries other top end model cars (Lamborgini, etc.) that sell for more than an Audi, hence they may be focusing more on those markets than on the lower end spectrum of products they sell. I ran into a similar situation when I purchased my Audi from a dealer who also sells Mercedes, Rolls Royce, Bentley and Porche. All vehicles went through the same service drive and the Audi folks kinda got lost in the shuffle with the high rollers. Cut to the chase...find a reputable dealer who sells Audi as his top of the line product, the focus will be there and the satisfaction level most likely will go up.
  • Hi All,
    My 99 A4 has recently been shutting off during driving while I brake or turn. Seems to me like the extra tourque required by the brake pump or steering pump is enough to shut off the engine. Does anyone know what could be the cause?

    Thanks in advance for your help.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    Might want to check your fuel pressure regulator for openers.


  • hoowahhoowah Posts: 1
    I'm sure there is a simple solution to this, but i cannot remove by dead battery because the bolt and surrounding area is rusted... Is there an easy DIY method to remove the rust?
  • mercopsmercops Posts: 34
    Simplest way is to go to auto parts or hardware store and buy what is called "penetrating oil" ("Liquid Wrench). Apply it liberally (but don't overdo it) to the threads and base of the bolt where the nut joins it. Let it soak in overnight and then reapply. Key is to give it time to soak in and work on dissolving and penetrating the rust. If you have the room, you can then try giving the nut a couple of decent taps with a punch and hammer to help "break the bond" between the nut and the bolt/stud. Then use a good fitting wrench (socket, box or last resort open-end). Key is to not over torque the nut as it could snap leaving you with an even bigger problem, so take your time and let the penetrant do its thing.

    Hope this helps, and do what we do here in Texas...have patience...that's why God gave us Tony Romo.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    You can also take a hacksaw blade and cut through the bolt right in its center (where the cable end pinches together). Don't go pounding on the battery, you'll damage it. If this is the Positive post, be careful that the hacksaw doesn't touch anything metal as you work. Wear safety glasses.

    But yes, rust penetrant, patience and maybe some vice grips are the best way to go.


  • lingvilingvi Posts: 2
    2009 A4 Premium Plus. Anyone have problems with driver side (front door) window rattling noise? Anytime I go over a bump or minor pothole, the window/door rattles. I brought it to the dealer but they said they couldn't reproduce it. Planning on bringing it back in and having the mechanic go on a test drive with me.

    Thanks in advance.
  • boss9boss9 Posts: 1
    Hey guys. Im planning to buy an Audi A4 1.8T. However, when i first started it, the idle was kinda high then it got normal after a few minutes. just wanna know if thats normal and are there any problem i should expect knowing that the vehicle has 83k miles?
  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    Hey boss: Can't comment on the high idle...might be a good idea to take the car
    into a good independent Audi tech and have all systems checked. With 83k, a few things to watch for: 1) You don't mention model year, but it's getting close to the spec (90k) for TIMING BELT change, and many owners change it at even 75-80k. This is an "interference" engine...if the belt breaks, you could blow the engine. Figure $900-1,000 cost to change belt; 2) Jack up the front end and verify control arms and tie rod ends are solid. If bad, you could be looking at $1,000+ unless you're a do-it-yourselfer; and 3) I would not buy this car without service records which verify use of VW/Audi-approved synthethic oil (Pentosin or Mobil 1 5W-40 etc. These engines are prone to sludging, and if you don't have the service records, you are probably SOL. Once again, take it into a good tech before buying! Good luck. audiophile1
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    very good advice from the dawg!


  • Herr Audi,
    Vas is los mit der marketingeng departmenten? Sie forgotteningen der solid, basic krautenrockert mit der AWD und manual transmissionnen fur der station vagonen.

    Achh! Hoi! Ver is der solid AWD krautrocken station vagonen mit der manual transmisionen?
  • Audi 2005 A4 Quattro. Engine makes a whirring / whining noise every now and then. Used to be way worse until I got a motor mount replaced. Still whirs / whines every now and then but let it go as normal Audi quirks. Also, brakes squeal a lil; but last time in was told I had enough left on the brakes to not warrant immediate action. Now, lo and behold, I have a new troubling noise. Very hard to describe as it is quite diffuse. Best I can describe is that's it's metal grinding. Maybe occasional clunking. And if I had to guess, I'd say the noise emanates from the rear. Reading thru this discussion, seems like it might be ABS related. I can't isolate when it happens, though it *seems* to happen mostly when I decelerate and break. I know ABS does a boot-up or whatever when you first start the car. My noise is after having driven for a while. Any thoughts, suspicions, etc? Thanks, Mike :sick:
  • hi , i bought an audi a4 2002 and the car has couple of issues. The first and probably biggest is the engine. I put the diagnostic system on and i got that all four cylinders miss firing, i pulled the packs off one by one and i found out that the second cylinder was not running. I have changed the coil packs and that did not solve the problem later I checked the compression in the cylinders and I got good value only from one cylinder. Open valve? cylinder head seal?
    could anyone help me ?
  • mercopsmercops Posts: 34
    Sounds like you made a good start at trying to diagnose the problems, but I have a couple of questions that may be able to narrow the search. I assume it is a 1.8 liter engine.

    1. You state that a diagnostic system was put on the engine. Did it record or do you have any codes related to the misfiring? If you have the codes it could help to narrow down the problem.

    2. You relate that you checked the compression and got a good value for only one cylinder. Did you do the compression check correctly? For proper check, Audi Tech info requires that the engine oil temperature be at least 85 degrees; the fuel pump fuse be removed; all plugs pulled; fully open throttle valve; attach compression tester and crank engine until the tester shows no further pressure increase. This will give you most accurate compression check. Tech info also shows that on new engine, compression can be 9-14 bars ( 130-200 psi) and the minimum acceptable compression is 7.5 bars (110 psi) with allowable difference between cylinders being 3.5 bars (44 psi). If your readings are within this range, then it is fairly safe to say that the head seal is good (from what I have found, the 1.8 engine head gasket usually does not fail too often).

    3. When you pulled the plugs, what did they look like, did they have discoloration? Sooty? Burnt? Correctly gapped? Any deposits that would indicate oil or coolant leaks? Did you replace then when you replaced the coils?

    4. Additional info on misfire that you should check is: Faulty spark plug; Faulty ignition wires with connector; Faulty fuel injectors; Crankshaft housing leak (check the hose setup of the crankcase ventilation system for secure seating and proper seal) as this will also cause problems with engine firing correctly (emissions issues)

    Hope this info helps you diagnose your problems. Let the group know of your success.

  • wendyxwendyx Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 A4 1.8T Convertible with 53K miles. I'm noticing a shudder when I accelerate from a stop . . . any thoughts on the cause? It has been going on for awhile but in the last few days it is more often and more pronounced.
Sign In or Register to comment.