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Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair



  • my 1996 petrol A4 2.6 v6 seems to suffer fuel starvation at around 5000 revs.I've done a full service, including fuel filter and new knock sensors, any other suggestions please.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,420
    How's the air filter? How many miles on this car?


  • nwalkleynwalkley Posts: 9
    If you end up needing a new fuel tank, as I did for what sounds like a similar problem (see earlier post in Jan./Feb. of this year) after replacing fuel canister and then senders to no avail, $3600 bill...all is right. I emailed Audi North America and after some research thru my local dealer they are refunding me $1800...
  • I had a similar problem with my 2003 A4 1.8T. The oil light came on and stayed on even after I had the oil changed. I brought the car to the dealer as it was still under warranty. They had the car for over a week, and at the end of it I was told there had been a sludge buildup, and that they had to "re-plumb" the engine. It has never run the same since. I have also had the CVT totally fail, and now I think the replacement transmission is about to go. Wonderful car.
  • OMG I have been driving a 1997 ford escort for 13 years now and hardly had ANY repairs besides the obvious wear and tear AND RUST, I was interested in buying a 2006 a4 quattro after test driving it, i absolutely loved the drive, and what a change from my 97 escort (which still runs perfectly)!!!!! but thanks to all of you it is now out of the question!!!! GERMAN ENGINEERING? i was looking for something reliable, it never even crossed my mind that such a car would have all these idiotic problems!! it was funny when the salesman told me that i have a 100$ deductible for every time i bring in my car for repairs under the warranty, he explained to me that its to my advantage to wait until i have a few issues or repairs to make so that the 100$ deductible will cover all of them. a little bell rang in my head.... repairs? wait until i have SEVERAL issues? whats this guy saying? he sucks as a salesman, i understand what he meant now. AUDI stop spending money in pretending you're a luxury brand through advertising and start spending more money or r&d and customer relations. seriously. thank you all again, at least Toyota admits they need to recall, you AUDI people categorize your should be recalls as "normal". Clearly different set of standards.
  • audis have pretty lights, they should build a car around them
  • Anybody experience their Audi being sluggish when they accelerate? I have 2002 S4 that starting doing this, but since I travel a lot I haven't had time to find a good repair shop locally. I just got back into town and drove it last night, and it's worse. The ABS lights comes on when it gets sluggish, so if I lift off the accelerator, it goes back to normal. In some extreme cases, when I had to pass someone on the highway a little quicker than usual, then the ABS and ESP (electronic-stability program) go on at the same time, when this happens I have to stop the car, turn off the ignition for a few secs, then it "resets" I guess. Any help/advice would be greatful! Thanks!
  • mercopsmercops Posts: 34
    Couple of things might be happening here concurrently.

    I believe that your ABS (Antilock Braking System) and your ESP (Electronic Stability Program) which interconnect to your EPC (Electronic Power Control) which is your throttle valve, are interrelated in the stability systems "brain". I think that they would come on anytime you lose traction (or the wheel sensors get out of sync with each other). This would cause your EPC to reduce power by limiting and closing your throttle valve. Or you could have a wiring fault between the EPC and the ECM.

    This should be an item that you can have determined by the dealership by putting it on their diagnostic computer and getting the appropriate touble/service codes. If there is a problem between the throttle valve and the ECM then have them check the wiring between your throttle valve and the ECM. If all wires and signals check out, you may need a new throttle valve. If the wires don't check out, they need to find out if the wires are shorted or is the ECM giving incorrect information.

    This also may be something that could be considered as "Emissions Related" and you might be able to get the dealership to cover it under the "Emissions Warranty. Worth asking.
  • That's great info, thanks! I didn't mention that I had some gaskets for an oil leak replaced and I had a coolant leak that was taken care of Oct 09'. This current problem didn't start until 2 or 3 weeks I'm guessing it's part of a "putting things back together" thing and it's a short, but the rest of the items you mentioned make sense of course. It was not the dealer though, my car is not under warranty, but typical, I should have gone to the dealer for my S4. It's so bad today that I can only accelerate to about 40mph and it's starts to freak out, so I let off the gas and wait a few secs for it to go "normal". And the weather here is sunny and 75 degrees!
  • tmetrotmetro Posts: 1
    Hi there!
    I have a 1999 Audi A4 Quattro 1.8L and it just started doing this SAME problem today. I couldn't get my car to go over 10mph and it was stalling. Did you ever find out why your Audi was doing this?
    Please help.
  • I am almost certain that your issue is a bad coil pack or bad spark plugs (more likely the coil pack with audi's or vw's)....they actually recalled all those from 2001-2007 b/c they knew that they had an issue. Parts should cost you about $125-$150 for all (1 per cylinder)

    simplt take off the plastic cover (3 plastic screvs that hold it on)...this will oncover the coil pack.....use an allen wrench to unbolt the 8 totsl bolts (2per), unplug....and replace with new ones, plug new ones in, bolt back in, put plastic cover back on, start off into the sunset
  • is it still peeping?
  • slavieslavie Posts: 1
    My car got rear-ended and I took it for repair at the Progressive shop. The car has 68k miles (bought new and all scheduled maintenance done at the dealership) and was in drivable condition, no difference in handling whatsoever. The clutch was performing flawlessly as always. Today I got a call from Progressive that while they were driving the car from the body shop to their concierge center, the clutch suddenly failed and they towed it to Sunset Audi (Portland, OR) - $2200 for replacement. Dealer claimed failure was not due to the accident, so Progressive wants me to foot the bill. Hence my question: is it normal for A4 Quattros to have sudden clutch failure? Or should I suspect that somebody used my car as a racing tool.

    Thanks in advance
  • mercopsmercops Posts: 34
    As the car was driveable prior to and up until the accident and the accident was to the rear of the vehicle, it is highly unlikely that the damage occurred from the accident.

    However, you left you vehicle in the custody of a third party (agent), ie: the repair shop, who was going to deliver it to the insurance concierge center. The vehicle repair shop has an obligation to provide for the guardianship of the vehicle while in its possession. In most cases, the the repair shop will state in their repair agreement that they are not liable for damages caused to the vehicle while in its custody except for cases of gross negligence. Unfortunately, gross negligence is hard to prove unless you or another party have witnessed what you believe to be gross negligence on the part of the person who was driving your vehicle. As you were not present during the failure of the clutch, you will have a tough fight on your hands.

    However, there is possibly some hope. If memory serves me correctly, your Audi is capable of storing certain operating, engine and vehicle dynamic information in its computer memory (this is comparable to an aircraft "black box"). If this information is still in the memory, your dealership should be able to extract the information, which will serve to provide some data to see if the car was used as a "racing tool" or any other hot-dogging prior to clutch failure.

    I would get with the dealership to see if they can extract the information and if so that could prove to be your tool to pursue the claim of gross negligence on the part of the agent and hence hold his feet to the fire by leveraging your insurance carrier that they are dealing with a firm that is not handling customers cars in a prudent, safe fashion.

    Good luck and let us know how you make out.

  • babyvanbabyvan Posts: 1
    I have an Audi 1999 2.8L .It has 107000 miles on it.
    2 months ago I was driving and the car died on me.However, the car started immediately after turning on my ignition. Now, the situation has gotten worse. These days it won't start at all. Sometime it would start after so many attempts. I have had two different shops look at it. They both have diagnosed different fault. The first shop says it's the electrical part of my ignition switch. They say i need to change it and have the audi dealership reprogram the switch. The second shops says my ECM is bad. They also want me to change it and have the Audi dealership program the new ECM with my vin number. The guy in the first shop has worked with an audi dealership for several years.

    Please guys I need your help. I am trying to avoid a visit to the audi dealership. The last time I went there they took all my money but couldnt solve my electrical issues (my power lock and power windows just stopped working all at the same time)

    Diagnostics 1.0..ran diagnostics and 4 codes came up
    16988:control Module Malfunction
    17967:Idle speed control thrust positive adaptation Malfunction
    18010:Voltage Supply Terminal 30 Voltage to Low
    18032: Request for warning light on active.

    Thank you so much!!
  • just purchased a 2005.5 3.2 a4. Seems great so far. couple of things. I was given a manual and maintenance guide for a 2005, it has no info on the 2005.5. I can't tell capacities or maintenance schedule from these docs. Can anyone lead me in the right direction for this basic info? I don't even know what grade motor oil to use. Want to change air/pollen filters, and clean snow screen, but I don't know where the snow screen or pollen filter is. bought k&n for air filter, but cant get air box lid off it, apparently without removing the rail on the valve cover for the coil packs. And how do I unclip these coil packs?!?!? I want to change plugs (I'm at 50k miles) but can't figure out pack clips and don't want to break them. Thanks for help and sorrow for multiple questions, thanks to all with the knowledge that are willing to take the time to share with us newbies...
  • fenixdfenixd Posts: 1

    I am thinking of buying 2002 A4 1.8 T Quattro from a colleague. It has 73500 miles on it automatic transmission.
    Recent work done as per him was
    Ignition coils replaced
    Coolant flange replacement

    I read issues and quiet costly ones with CVT 2002 version specifically.
    Are there any serious issues with this and should I stay away from this model.

    I currently have Golf GL and wanted to upgrade to GTI or A4.

    Please suggest based on you experiences.

  • nwalkleynwalkley Posts: 9
    I can't speak for 2002 models, but I am planning on selling my 2005 as soon as I get it out of the shop - there already one week awaiting shipment of new ignition cylinder that needs replacing as car will not start. This is second week + of car in shop in 2010. I am planning on selling it soon and would not advise anyone to by an Audi unless it was certified pre-owned by a dealer, or without buying an extended warranty - car is great to drive but maintenance is becoming expensive and inconvenient.
  • I have a '97 Audi A4 Quattro 1.8 that won't start. When you turn the key absolutely NOTHING happens.
    Here's what lead to the issue: I started the car and heard a "click" noise that was unusual. While driving everything electrical stopped working - the directionals, lights, air blower (which showed on the console that it turned on, but no air came out, and then it shut itself off). When I arrived at my destination, the key wouldn't come out of the ignition. I was able to start the car back up, with no problem, and then drove home. I forced the key out of the ignition and all the electrical came back on, but now the car won't start up. The ignition switch has been replaced and we've tried bypassing the lock cylinder but it still won't start. I replaced the ECU yesterday and again, nothing. We've checked the security system and there were no issues there either. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
  • jebtdijebtdi Posts: 5
    My 2001 A4 TDi 6sp manual Quattro wagon ran like a dream, and required very little in the way of maintenance, expensive or otherwise for almost 10 years.
    I'd say look at the price, so you can get out of it in a good way if problems develop.
    Audi experiences seem to be extremely polarized – very very good or terrible, and little in-between.
    If it's been good for him, jump in; if not, forget about it, and get a new Golf TDi, a Passat TDi, or a Skoda Octavia TDi (all lovely).
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